jd1923

Many of you know this spot! Just down for the weekend!

Battleborn was a leader, prospective customers thinking Made in USA, yet all LiFePO4 cells are made in China. Base your decision on cost and if 200AH is enough save $$$ on a LiTime 230 AH for $480! In your position, I would spend $1300 less 10% off an Epoch 420 and never worry about your SOC! $480 to $1170. Battleborn will catch up on the times. It’s not 2019 anymore. The temp sensor is only required for lead acid. I learned that when configuring our Victron MP2 inverter. Delete it. Battery disconnect, if you desire one for storage purposes, I went without, can be before or after the shunt since it does not draw current. Whatever is mechanically easier in your installation. It’s late tonight and after work today I towed our Oliver from home to Lost Dutchman for the weekend. Heavy Phoenix traffic and a stop at AJ’s for steaks, burgers and dessert, we pulled in after dark. I’m tired so let me know if you want feedback on your drawing. I LOVE an ol’ school schematic. I’ve drawn many too, though tonight did not review yours. Best to you Dave! JD

Not on tow vehicles! Anybody with an F250/350 have this Bosch system? How about a new model Dodge Ram or those here with the GMC Duramax and 10-speed Allison. If any Oliver Owners reply with a Yes, then I will do “a little homework.” I would say, if the Audi Q7 has such ignition system it is NOT a proper tow vehicle. Not one I would use to tow in the mountains where we live! Bad enough a small car turns engine off at a stoplight (green deal cr@p). My truck, and any truck I will own, does not and will not cut fuel and ignition when I’m descending an 8% grade, no way! Smoke, reburn of fuel forced by engine turning in gear downhill, due to no ignition current, wow bad situation. Towing with a car designed for suburban driving! I could tow better with our GX470 but prefer an old-school diesel for power, control and safety! 🤣

Hard to troubleshoot with no hull info in the signature. Took time to click on the user, and it’s a brand NEW hull! Gray valve closed or shower floor drain closed? Was it working last week, last month? How many days camping so far? Hard to advise with info provided.

The cotter pin just keeps the connecting rod in place. This model should work fine. Also wondering on these. Most are rated at 2500#. This one at 11,000# wondering how? Stronger steel. Others are stainless steel which is certainly a weaker steel. https://a.co/d/aeiJN3k

Nice work @Steve Morris! Anybody ever change the countertop and sink bowl? I would like the counter to be 3-4” deeper and have a sink bowl, also just deeper front to back, that a man could splash water in his face without it dripping down the front of the vanity! A deeper sink must just barely fit into the OEM base to be feasible. The toilet and shower space is well designed, not so the sink. Thank you!

Please do and let us know when you get the chance. Thanks

It's good there is an option to turn off. I've rented cars that do that and cannot stand that at lights and other intersections. I would tap the gas to get the engine ready.

In addition to @Geronimo John’s comments/questions… There is no such thing as the above quoted statement. Any and all combustion engines need fuel and ignition even at idle let alone when “the engine at 4 to 5k rpm downhill for an extended time.” This is not what a trained Audi tech would say. Something was lost in the translation. Forcing your gas engine in gear to brake 12+ LBS is causing your engine oil leaks and you need to get your TV and TT brakes dialed in so not to further harm your Audi engine and drive train, worse if your Q7 is a Quattro (AWD) which can cause harm to CV axles, seals and more. Only diesel engines with engine brakes should be used for braking. Gas engines with manual transmissions can assist some, automatic transmissions not, unless you want to damage them too! Lastly, smoke from the brakes in the front wheels is quite different from residue oil burning, coming out of the tailpipe behind the vehicle. One you would see from the windshield, the other would be noticed in the rear view mirror. Not trying to be an a$$ here. This is the stuff that adds to frequent highway fatalities! Worry about your setup before your AZ trip. Read the post I linked above and dial in your brake controller, check your brake system down to the brake fluid.

Bill, you are an old school sort of techy! 🤣 @Steve Morris excellent post, well documented. Thank you. 😂

@Patriot questions… Link for hitch, weight rating? Also, what are the safety chain connectors we see in your last picture? Link! I need these. it’s difficult getting under there on our TV. Thank you, JD

This company does not show the 10% discount on Epoch (code USA10). They did on their 4th of July sale. The also have free shipping and no sales tax outside of CO. Epoch has 10% OFF, free shipping but they do charge sales tax in all states. If you call Renewable and get them to honor the 10% by price match, you may get the best price. epoch - Renewable Outdoors

Just received an email today from Epoch. They have 10% OFF for Veterans week! Coupon code: USA10 RV/Van/Camper Batteries - Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) For Superior Safety and Performance

If I was to run a generator it would be LP only. I would not want to carry gasoline in the TV since it is explosive and smelly, some always spills when I fill tard tools or you need a funnel that will also smell like gas. I would not want the generator to ever have the smell of gas. Also, gasoline as produced and sold today is of rather low quality. You cannot keep it on hand, in a gas can, for more than a month or two before it starts to produce a lacquer-like sludge. You could add Stabil or a like additive to it keep it for 6 months. Gas needs to be used, and LP can sit in a tank for longer periods. I have not read of it going bad. Gas would have to be emptied when your Olivers are in storage for a period of time. I would buy a propane only unit, if one was available on the market. I would also want it to run on the Oliver LP system with the installed quick disconnects that supply LP run through the onboard regulator if possible. Is anybody doing this already? What kind of LP connection is required? IMHO, just some features and concerns to think about.

Ron, do you have startup amperage number for the Atmos with SoftStartRV?

Thinking Truma is a good decision for Hulls #1500 and above, those with money to spend not wanting extra aftermarket installations. Unless something comes up better in the next 2-3 months, I’ll go with Atmos that @rideadeuce and @Ronbrink have proven, $1650 including SoftStartRV installed, S&H included, install yourself or find a local installer, At the Truma price point, it should certainly come with integrated and proprietary soft start! Another point for us boondockers. The Truma pulls large amps like the noisy Dometic. Atmos much more efficient draws less than 10A, Run your A/C on your 3KW inverter!

There are a few install posts here. The DC-DC charger is great if your stays are short, back on the highway every few days. Won’t help for longer stays and wanting to run the A/C.

You do not need this relatively expensive kit, with regulator, if attaching the generator directly to the Oliver onboard LP quick disconnect which supplies regulated LP pressure. Yes with an external tank, but connected to the Oliver only a hose with correct fittings is needed. Not sure what connection is on the Honda, but a $20 hose like this may work: https://a.co/d/cNzqBC4

For sure, though not sure what brand device Truma installs and I believe home installation voids the Truma warranty. What I’ve read here is that Truma brand parts cannot be purchased without Truma service. So for me, this eliminates Truma products from consideration. Also, there is no Truma and no OTT dealers in the state of Arizona. Two strong reasons.

Can this item be purchased? My understanding is that only Truma can install their parts, not sold in the aftermarket. I observed the Truma service van install 8 of these during the recent Texas Rally.

I too haven't needed one yet and NOT thinking about it. Another 80-100 LBS in generator and extra LP. Rather reduce weight than add more. Added 600AH LiFePO4 and a solar suitcase adding to 720W solar and Victron 3KVA MP2 Inverter/Charger. Yes, none of this helps in bad weather, though 9 of 10 days it's "another sunny day in Arizona!" We don't camp during the hot SW summers. With an Atmos A/C upgrade (planned for Q1 2025) we could run the air a couple hours (<10A at 120VAC) in the afternoon spending ~30% SOC with our configuration. Most of our travel plans include boondocking for periods of 2-5 days. We regularly book stays at national/state/county parks in-between our dry camping stays. We will get down below 50% and hook-up and chargeback to full. We also carry a 50' extension cord with adapter for emergencies. Before you go generator, increase your battery bank in AHs and plan a hookup campsite every so often. I would add another 300 to 600AH Epoch LiFePO4 in the basement first (will fit in the void under the pantry for 1200AH total). Or do what @rideadeuce did and start off with 920AH!

Yeah Mike 🤣, I get it and no offense taken at all or ever! I'm your biggest fan re all your 2024 upgrades! I'm always thinking, must we have this too? Money spent on the Anderson leveler system and blocks was enough and what we have now works really well. For me, motorized water ball valves were at the top of my 2023 mod list. This keeps us from upsetting the curbside bed while camping. We also have the OTT Fresh Tank defect where it has only 18 gallons usable water. During our recent 3+ week trip to the Texas Rally, we filled the freshwater tank via the boondocking port four (4) times without messing Chris' bed! The rewiring I did when I added the MP2 moved most fuses under the rear dinette seat keeping us from having to move the streetside bed as well. My install has 3 motorized valves and 3 switches (see PDF and picture). Two operate the ON/OFF of the boondocking/winterizing valves and the third operates the fresh tank drain. With two switches, operating the valves, you can set them for winterizing (rear port to faucets) or "boondocking" (rear port to fill fresh tank). Steve @ScubaRx used only one switch to operate both valves, stated he does not winterize. Neither do I, as I truly prefer compressed air over the pink stuff (that recently causes CO monitor issues, LOL). For the pennies involved in adding another switch, I decided to keep full valve functionality. Steve showed it can be done with one switch, though you must have the two valves regardless. With ONE switch you can change the valves to Boondocking position but not Winterizing. Review of this post will show a lot of new functionality, keeping the design and installation, as simple as possible, within my means and available shop tools. Mike, I'm looking forward to reading your upgrade post when you get to it! Water Valve Switches.pdf

Good work and clean installation @Derek B! I can attest re Epoch. During our recent trip we parked at a friend's house in Ruidoso NM and spent two nights in their wonderful king bedroom suite! I generally check SOC and inverter status, Ruuvi temps and every related Bluetooth app 2-3 times a day when camping (not this time). The Oliver was out of sight, out of mind, as we truly enjoyed our visit. My friend asked if we wanted to plug in when we parked, and I replied, "We'll do it later." and then I forgot. We had the old Dometic absorption fridge on DC for the long day driving there from West Texas and the next two overnights. Forgetting all about it, 48 hours later our two 300AH Epoch Essential batteries were at 4% and 5% SOC according to the Epoch App. Plugged into the house 110V outlet at 5 AM and when we left by noon, we were up over 60% with the charge rate set to a conservative 50A on the Multiplus II (can be configured up to 120A and the Epoch can take an amazing 200A in or out). I've run ours on purpose down to 20% SOC many times in testing, by running the A/C for 4 hours, our new oven and other AC appliances. I would not think to run brand new LiFePO4 batteries under 10% SOC on purpose, but no apparent issues arose from doing so. We're loving the performance of these batteries!

Wow, great idea Ray with the help of your friend in the solar biz! This is $3/AH (given this is the true OTD price, no tax and free shipping). I spent $1800 OTD on 600AH of Epoch batteries which is again $3/AH, but you fit 800AH in the Oliver battery bay at this price. What an EXCELLENT upgrade! I'm not the guy who worries about warranties and most LiFePO4 warranties are 11 years but likely not full replacement after 5 years. EG4 claims 15 years service to 80% DoD with a 5-year full replacement warranty. It appears they are being honest and do not want to get into prorating warranties after 5 years. Really? on your gorgeous XPLOR! I just assumed you had the OEM Platinum Package. We needed the LiFePO4 upgrade this year, along with Victron MP2 and 400W suitcase solar (now 720W total), allowing us to dry camp for days, and up to a week off-grid using several 110VAC appliances daily. AGM is fine for those who camp with hook-ups. We had very good condition lead-acid batteries, replaced in 2022 by the prior owner. We could have used these for many more years but would have only 220AH available which can be depleted over two cloudy days. Instead, we spent $1800 on 600AH LiFePO4 and sold the LA batteries for $300 on Craigs, net cost $1500! Four years ago on a prior RV, we installed AGM since back then the cost of LiFePO4 was prohibitive. If Ray had posted this 6 months earlier, I would have copied this install for 800AH! Hard to beat this capacity/value. Instead, we'll limp along with only 600. 🤣

For me, the 8" tall round Anderson blocks are all we need for the rears. I use the 1" stacking blocks up front as sometimes we need just a few inches of height and other times we need much more like 12-15" of height. If there is such a thing, next time I would buy the 8" round blocks without the magnets. They don't always stick for me, so I just place them on the ground anyway. They should be lighter and easier to carry without the magnets. My moto, just "keep it simple silly!" (KISS)