jd1923

Congratulations @CRM, I know you have been wanting this for a while and I'm happy for you! 😂 And you didn't have to wait 'til Thanksgiving! Every time I've read an Oliver A/C installation thread, I've always thought this and you're the first to mention it. When I removed the Winegard dish from our roof it was a mesh underneath and I expect under the Dometic to be the same or worse. I'm hiring a guy to shine up the Oliver and hope to get him up top first after I've pulled the old unit and temporarily plug up the 14x14 opening to keep buffing compound out of the interior! The solar panels will come off too so most of the roof can be addressed. One of the Greenland YouTubers talked to this, re the interior airflow being noisy too. Given your description, I'm wondering, could a foam insert between the Oliver ceiling and the A/C interior panel help here? Did you have fan set to high or low? This is why you insisted on the Inverter A/C! BTW, I purchased one on sale too a few days after you! It just arrived. With help of the FedEx guy, we put it in the back of our GX for lack of a better place to put the huge heavy box! It's still in the box. I have to finish up some current projects and line up the guy to buff the roof. We'll both have new Greenland Inverter A/Cs before Thanksgiving and perhaps we can work together on modifying the interior air exchange for quieter operation. I'm looking forward to running this inverter A/C on batteries. Already thinking about where to put a 3rd battery for total 1060Ah (maybe an Epoch 460 in the doghouse)! 😎 Bummer is the extra battery would cost more than the Greenland Inverter A/C!

Wish we had that much flat ground, let alone a garage large enough for the Oliver and much more! First thing I would do is trench some power to that garage, install a sub-panel, add a 30A outlet and a few lights and regular outlets to start. Our home has 200A service and I've run cable and added 4 sub-panels for many needs. The last one was to our TuffShed next to where we park the Oliver, with a 30A outlet there. Electrical work is the easiest upgrade, though everything costs $$$. Do the doors later. It's not like it's going to snow down there! 🤣

Next, we'll have to get you into a Victron Multiplus II with PowerAssist! I've used ours a couple of times when on 15A shore power connections. From Victron: PowerAssist – Extended use of generator or shore current: the inverter/charger “co-supply” feature, allowing the inverter/charger to supplement the capacity of the alternative source. Where peak power is often required only for a limited period, the inverter/charger will make sure that insufficient AC mains or generator power is immediately compensated for by power from the battery. When the load reduces, the spare power is used to recharge the battery.

I was told by OTT that they did not have decals, nor the artwork, so perhaps they cannot add graphics anymore if they wanted to.

One big naked egg! I can only see doing that for those who want their own custom graphics, like many here have done. I only want our Oliver to look like what Oliver produced when it was new. Crazy for an organization to lose their own artwork!

Wow! 🤣

Nice @CRM, the markers are cool, one of a kind! Your new logo looks like a reverse pattern of our original, with the gray and black switched. The black (or blue) looks to match the rear label. Is it black or midnight blue? Chris says I'm color-blind. 😎

@Wandering Sagebrush The one I linked above looks slightly different but is an equal replacement. My original one was the same as yours. They both work the same way in that the handle will pause the water flow. The new works like the original, looks nicer and the rubber seal doesn't leak!

Yes, it is. I like them both! Did you apply the new front logo too? If so, please share picture. Thanks

I get it for sure. Take a look at our "nose logo." There's a small section of the decal missing bottom-right that came off with my pressure washer. I don't get too close to the logo anymore when washing. 🤣 My side stripes are in like new condition, whether you like them or not. Given the two-tone color of my truck with gray lower sections, I like that the graphics on our Oliver are in gray & black. The logo and striping complement the colors of our truck. So perhaps our future is in getting a new proper front logo in gray & black, or perhaps I strip it off and shine up a big naked nose front of our hull? Thanks Bill @topgun2 for looking into this! 😂

https://www.amazon.com/OFFO-Converter-Coupling-Bathroom-Plumbing/dp/B0CZ46SVY9/?th=1

I only asked re the front logo, but both would be nice! Striping can be anything or going without works. Are new Olivers delivered without the front Oliver logo? I did notice looking at the Texas Rally pics that 5-6 hulls had no front logo. The big round white front looks bare without one!

You would think and they certainly should be available! I'm wanting to get the exterior of our hull looking good again! I guess I can add custom artwork like many have done but I like to restore vehicles back to factory stock condition. I was told exactly this: "The graphics are not available. A sign shop or graphic shop should be able to take a photo and recreate the graphics; I do not have a file that I can send you." I questioned this answer, to no avail. So I'm supposed to take a picture of my 10-year-old faded graphic, missing sections have peeled off, and somehow create new artwork! If anybody has Oliver artwork files for the front logo and rear-side label "Oliver Legacy Elite II" I would greatly appreciate it.

I believe it's a Scandvik. On ours the screw-on part cracked, likely from over-tightening. This is s good replacement: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJVE86M/

I was told by one Oliver owner, at the Texas 2024 Rally, that his wife insisted their Dometic Penguin II ran on, with fan ON, running all night (this model in Auto mode will turn the fan on-&-off with the compressor). Reason was, she would wake when it turned back on. Good for her, since we with our windows open had to hear their A/C all night long (and all day for that matter)!

It's just hard to imagine how this happened. The grease fittings on the equalizers I removed were in there solid. The one fitting I removed (so that I could measure threads for you) had threads 5/16" in length. I had to turn it 4-5 revolutions to remove it. I replaced the originals (one is pictured on page 1 of this thread) because the center bushings were very worn after 7 years of use (with weak springs and lose wet-bolts). No reason for grease fittings to wear and inside the suspension hanger they are quite protected from damage. Who knows why? But it is what it is. I purchased two of these: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension-Parts/Dexter/013-144-03.html

Looks like this, several on Amazon, side shades too. https://a.co/d/95YrFh4 https://a.co/d/25pOwgP

Miss you guys! Was fun last year and should be bigger and better for y’all this year!

You don't really need a display on inverter/charger systems. After replacing our Xantrex with the Victron Multiplus, we covered up the hole where the Xantrex switch was with artwork! It's all about readings on the apps! 😎 The App is showing the Victron in Power-Assist mode. I've set incoming amperage for a 15A (household circuit). So to run the A/C, the Victron is inverting the net required power supplied by the LiFePO4 batteries. Xa

Learning about this kind-a stuff is why we have this Forum! These links are from the Xantrex and Victron "Stores" on Amazon. The Xantrex is $635 less and I cannot believe the price on the Victron, $100 less than I paid July 2024! Get your money back? https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-818-3010-Freedom-Inverter-Charger/dp/B08C1VRWZL https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-MultiPlus-II-Inverter-120A-50A/dp/B0BZV91KW4/?th=1

If you cannot screw them as mounted. And if you do remove any suspension bolts, be on level ground first. If not the equalizer may not want to go back in the direction it came from. 😎

Please do not do this! The better Victron Multiplus II is exactly half this cost, with better functionality and reliability! There are several threads here re failures of this brand inverter-charger.

Yes, see link below! You're Welcome! 🤣 I can understand that full-timers must get service on the road, but having service done on the road is not a good idea if at all possible to avoid! Hence your situation. I do 98% of my work myself, out of my garage, and it bothers me to have someone else touch my prize possessions, those who generally do not care! 🤣 Given service "mostly while traveling" you cannot go back to ask them to correct their work. Simply buy the correct grease fittings and get them installed.

I removed a Zerk fitting from the Dexter EZ Flex equalizer that OTT installed in our hull during service in 2018 (they should still be the same). The four (4) grease fittings that fit the EZ Flex equalizers are 45-angle with 1/4"-28 threads. This Amazon link shows the correct size and shape (taller post style), but not sure of the quality of this product (but likely a fine replacement): https://www.amazon.com/Plews-11-105-Grease-Fitting/dp/B000SL2M0M/ I needed the same kind for the wet-bolts Alcan supplied and I ordered Dorman AutoGrade 1/4-28 Inch Grease Fitting - 852-703 from O'Reilly's. Ron is correct. The fittings for the equalizers are as spec'd above. The fittings for the wet-bolts are the smaller straight M6x1mm fittings (turn with an 8mm wrench). This would work if you have an old-school local Napa that's been around for decades with the old-timers still working! When I ordered mine from O'Reilly's the sales person wanted to show me the assortment kits. They had 10 different assortments, none of what I needed and she had no idea! This may be true! And if you must do so, after removing both wheels on one side, TV attached for safety, just remove the equalizer center bolt and drop both axles enough to clear the top of the equalizer. Do NOT remove the wet-bolts as you will have trouble re-aligning them to remount! If it was me, and you are also very good with your hands and wrenching, I would try to thread the new fittings in without disassembly! You still want the wheels off to get your body closer to the work. Using your fingers get the new fitting started. Then with the smallest open-ended 10mm wrench you have, start to tighten. You must tighten as far as the wrench can go in the small opening, then turn the wrench upside down which changes the angle of the head of the wrench. Keep flipping the wrench over and over and be patient! 😎 I believe these are prone to falling out because the installers point the fittings outward and they are not tightened down to the base. Therefore they are not torqued in place, the threads are basically lose to start! Given you job-out this kind of work... Buy your new fittings, take parts and trailer to your service shop and ask them to install them! They should offer to do this at no charge, given you have used their services regularly and yes, they should have tightened them or made you aware they were missing!

The Dexter EZ Flex always comes with two Zerk grease fittings (by design, one for each lever)! Also, your left and right side equalizers must be the same! This is NOT an OTT Service issue, no reason for a Service Ticket or warranty claim. Instead of thought spent in how this might have happened, you merely need to purchase the two missing fittings ($10 +/-) and screw them into place! 😎 I have recently removed the OEM suspension from our Oliver and have these parts, EX Flex Equalizers included, in my shed. If you'd like I would measure the thread size and pitch of the required grease fittings and let you know the correct parts to purchase. Just let me know. Best wishes, JD