jd1923

Still want a reply from @ScubaRx on the electrical switches... Made some headway today. Anybody, yes ANYBODY who has an older Oliver with these 3-way brass water valves MUST change out these valves, even if you do not want to motorize or upgrade! I cannot believe OTT installed these valves! The opening in only 1/4" WT*! See pic, this is crazy! What were they thinking? The OEM water pump is 3 GPM. I measured water flow at the kitchen sink and the shower, cold side came in at 48 seconds to fill a gallon container. That's 1.25 GPM down from 3 at the pump due to multiple restrictions along the path! OMG! 🤣

First, I thought I would need only one DPDT switch. Though I purchased a set of 3 anyway. I also purchased one SPDT switch to activate the simple open/close ball valve for the fresh tank drain. There are Three (3) water valve configurations, the normal setting to 1) pump from the fresh tank, 2) the winterizing setting to bypass the fresh tank and push to faucets, and 3) the boondocking setting to draw water from an auxiliary tank to the fresh tank. I'm thinking I would need to wire 2 DPDT switches to switch each 3-way ball valve independently, to work all three combinations. Steve, perhaps you do not use the winterizing combination? Am I thinking this correctly? I will not add RV antifreeze ever, instead will blow out the lines with air, even though OTT does not recommend this practice in their video. I will however use the winterization mode to descale lines and faucets with vinegar and sterilize lines with bleach (not at the same time of course).

Been thinking about this for a while, reading posts, and collecting parts. So, this is what I'm thinking (see pic). The OEM water pump is a basic model, at 55 PSI (not bad) and 3 GPM (pretty bad). I had the same model in our sold Bigfoot class-C, which I replaced as well. Now I will have 2 basic back-up water pumps! Those of you with newer models have an accumulator, older hulls did not. When done, we will NEVER lift a mattress to switch a water valve. Some who know me, know that I already have a 35-gallon water tank mounted to my truck. We love our water out here, in the SW, where it is scarce! I will increase the PSI a little to 60 and add volume 5 GPM (huge), also addind dual .75L water accumulators. Some may get worried re manufacturer specs, although design tolerances have considerable room, often up to 50%. I will add 9% more PSI and PEX is rated to 160 PSI (although not all the fittings are). We run our home at 60 PSI water pressure. Take a look! Please let me know what you think. I'm tearing old parts out asap tomorrow! 😋

Watched the OU video on the EMS system. Noted a post where @John E Davies mentioned the display may be mounted under by inverter. My 2016 hull #113 does not seem to have one. No display in the rear attic and none to be found. I can see the incoming power going directly to the PD5100 without EMS before or after. Thinking I should install one. I'm not the guy who plugs in external devices and blue water filters at the camp site! Thinking I should install this one correctly. Is this what OTT installs? Amazon.com: Progressive Industries RV Surge Protector 30 Amp with Electrical Management System, Hardwired with Remote Display, EMS-HW30C : Automotive I'll bet @Scuba Steve knows the history here or perhaps @topgun2, since Bill's Oliver and mine are cousins (hulls 113 and 117). I imagine the EMS needs to be installed near first in line, just after the PD 5100 which switches between the two built-in shore power sources. Let me know. Thx

Thanks JD, this is super helpful! I get it now. History of my Oliver must have had a lot of extremely hard salty SW desert water (like the water at Quartzite AZ). Installing a new anode and bi-annual rinsing of the HWH should at least keep the scale at bay. Map of water hardness in the United States | U.S. Geological Survey (usgs.gov) Mountain water where we live is up to 7 grains/gallon and we enjoy our water at home, filtered for drinking only. On the map you can see the high country of AZ is in the white and blue zones, with the desert SW in the RED zone, which is where we all enjoy our winter camping. As kids, we lived in northern IL (when not yet on Lake Michigan water) where well water was up to 25 grains. I could never stand the never-rinsed feel of softened water, though perhaps the technology is better today. I remember the heavy bags of salt were useful during winter weather for added weight in our RWD vehicles of the day! You can see on the map that most of that area is also in the RED zone. Go to Chicago area now, wash your face and this 'lake' water smells strongly of chlorine!

I was thinking that we would replace the filters annually, being part-timers. This is the time of year to empty the plumbing lines and tanks. I never have used any kind of RV antifreeze. So, I could change the filters after blowing out the lines when the filter canisters should be half empty. Once with our Bigfoot I had forgotten to reduce air pressure on my shop compressor prior to blowing out the lines. Was somehow lucky that time, but it's usually set down at 50 PSI or less. I've drained the HW heater 3 times now, since our June Oliver purchase, and every time there is sooooo much scale (just did it again yesterday). I use a cleaning wand and more and more scale keeps coming out. I could have literally filled a gallon jug with scale so far! I have a new anode to install this time. I'm also going to work the OTT vinegar procedure to remove scale from the cold-water lines soon. Yes, it would be easier to have an external unit, no installation required, though if I can get it nicely installed, it would be so much easier at every campsite or fill-up of the fresh holding tank.

Thanks Steve, I thought backflow or pressure regulator. Yes, the drawing shows it on the hose bib vs. the rear of the trailer. Wonder why do they need the second brass connector on each line? Are there both backflow and pressure regulator in-line?

Thanks Rich! Your diagram shows me the third line is for the outdoor shower. This is very helpful. Anybody know why there are so many fittings on the incoming water lines? Looks like an inline pressure regulator but would like confirmation, for those who can identify the inline parts. Thanks

Planning a dual-filter water filtration system to be installed in the rear basement of the Oliver, where the incoming water lines are located. My goal is to use one of the City or Fresh water hose inlets to supply the filtration system and block off the other hose bib. Then post filtration, install a 3-way water valve within reach, to choose the City line (hose pressurized) or the line to fill the Fresh Tank. Decided on the Clearsource Premier™ product vs. their 3-filter Ultra system which seems to be overkill given water will sit in fresh tank anyway. Then I thought, why buy their rather expensive $400 system vs. just purchasing the parts? What a deal! I purchased two filter housings, a filter wrench and a filter kit (on a discount by adding an annual subscription) all for $140 delivered. Clearsource sells the complete filter housings at only $30 ea. I will get other parts from Lowes or Depot, since this purchase did not include the plumbing, nor a proper installation bracket. I'll present more as I build it. Though right now, I have a question, for those in the know! Please check out the second picture. Why so many connectors on the internal plumbing? I see a connector AND another connector, perhaps with a built-in pressure restrictor, or backflow preventor? Also wondering why I see a third Pex line without any connectors? Please advise, before I tear all of this apart! It's just like Oliver to install devices that may need maintenance, so deep and out of reach!

Wondering why there appear to be 3 Coaxial cable TV lines, running from the basement up to the rear attic? (see pic) We do have the Winegard satellite dish, but not sure why that cable would travel to the basement and back. I would think that cable would run between the shells up top, or behind the upper cabinets, to get from the front installed dish to the rear attic. I do understand there is a coax port installed rear streetside, so that accounts for one cable. Why three cables?

See this thread, all info required is here:

Sure Ken, I agree now seeing your explanation. The pics I observed above, appeared to be only the wrap and the mating surfaces looked solid. You supplied a sound reason for the cracking. Given rust within created expansion to cause the cracks, to the point of not allowing the 3/4" socket to fit, yep you got a problem. Given the interior threads would be as rusty, they could fail with time.

How do you guys have room for 2 big dogs in an Oliver?! 🤣

Measured the lights in our Oliver today and they are 3 1/8" diameter (the older version, not touch-lights). These 4" adapters should be 4" ID so lots of room, was hoping they would fit closer. There are 12 interior lights (not counting 3 bathroom lights).

Cool thread, we all love "men's best friend!" We haven't traveled much yet in our Oliver. So, the first two pics are when we had the Bigfoot Class-C, a fall trip to Williams and Sycamore Canyon, Arizona (2nd largest canyon in AZ). Meet our 9-year-old English Springer Spaniel named Charley! Chris caught me napping, something I literally never do! So, it was picture-worthy. In the spot where I removed the uncomfortable loveseat for other seating and more room. The third pic is when we first purchased our Oliver in June. Charley made himself right at home while we were removing the 'stink' of past owners.

Nice simple mod, good idea and crafty install. I cannot stand light hitting my eyes at the wrong angle too. We don't have the touch lights either, but if the size is right, that doesn't matter. Painting is not such a good idea. Get ABS if you want black and PVC for white. Adding this to my list!

Excellent work Chris - Wow! It also looks way better than the raw edge of the panels too. 🙂

Our old Hull #113 has needed service in many areas! And she still does. Serviced the axles recently and all of our original stainless-wrapped lugnuts were good, no cracks. Do realize, cracks in the stainless wrap are merely cosmetic. I cleaned mine up with the steel brush on my grinder and they look great. Maybe because ours has lived mainly in the dry SW?

Could you please share a picture of your "deck plates" install. I already purchased 12V motorized ball-valve switches and DPDT toggle switches, my install not yet started, though the thought of a simple access panel really makes sense! I'm interested in seeing your installation, though with the motorized valves, I will only have to drill 2-3 1/2" holes for the toggle switches. I'm upgrading the water pump too for more GPM and adding a couple of .75L accumulators so the pump cycles less often vs. every time you use the water. Looking at adding a dual canister water filter system too. I'll post my installation, in a mods thread, likely before or after Christmas when I have a few weeks off!

I also use a Melitta, their cone and carafe setup. Then I pour a cup and the rest goes in my Stanley Thermos. The #4 filters are a little smaller and convenient for one person. Chris uses a French press to make a special half-caf brew. Anybody using a manual pour, gotta get one of these. We use it when on shore power and have a backup tea kettle too for LP. Amazon.com: Aigostar Electric Kettle, 1.7 Liter Electric Tea Kettle with LED Illuminated and High Borosilicate Glass, Hot Water Kettle with Filter, BPA Free, Auto Shutoff, Boil-Dry Protection, Cordless, 360° Base: Home & Kitchen This little electric kettle is great. The black and white ones are 1100W and for some reason the new stainless model is 1500W. We have two of the 1100W models, with one in daily use at home. Heats up quicker than the kettle on gas. Why waste LP when on shore power? And when the batteries are charged enough, I'll run this off the inverter too! 😄 I thought the main question Doug expressed, was not about coffee likes, but about counter space and fitment! Doug, let us know if you need any measurements.

GJ, there was only one option for my truck and likely the same for an F150. I believe mine are the RED, since they were colored red on the surface of the pads (the break-in surface). Red makes sense as the best option for most trucks, unless you're racing a HP truck! It states low dust, excellent hot friction (brakes certainly get hot with downhill braking) and good life, which are the best choices for any truck and TV. Mine was a major upgrade, because I replaced both the stock 16" wheels and rotors with 17" (Dodge Ram OEM 2nd to 3rd Gen). The upgrade added a 1/2" radius of contact surface around the perimeter of the rotor, and the pads (see pic above) appear to have about 60% more contact area. Every year in the auto industry, stuff gets bigger and heavier. The curb weight of my 2001 Ram is 750 LB less than the weight of the a like 3rd Gen truck. So, I have brakes made for a considerably (12%) heavier truck. The EBC product is A+ premium, all manufactured in the UK or USA! I have done 20-30 brake jobs in my life, and I was grinning ear-to-ear as I unwrapped the parts. 😀 So, just putting new rotor and pads will be better. Can you upgrade your F150 with what is installed OEM on the F250 Super Duty? That would be added stopping power. I do not know what is involved in such a Ford upgrade, but there are forums for that. All I had to do is buy this kit and purchase left and right caliper mounts (Cardone reman for $20 ea). Just the mounts, as the calipers are the same. How cool is that?! The new mounts merely hold the calipers 1/2" further out. There is a similar upgrade for my '08 Lexus GX470. Many off-road enthusiasts prefer the older GX, as it had the dependable Toyo 4.7L engine, was lighter (600 LB less), slimmer and better looking! You can mount the new model brakes on the older GX. Same kind of thing and when mine needs front service, or I run out of things to do 🤣, l will make this upgrade too. Hope this helps and thanks for asking!

We lived in Austin and Georgetown Texas for 9 years, while we had our Home in Prescott AZ, driving that round-trip 2-3 times each year. That's at least 20 times the 2200-mile roundtrip. We have many great routes to make this drive without using the Interstate system, unless there was winter weather and then we'd take I-10. Still all paved roads, there and back. Sure, there's dirt/gravel roads where we all camp and more of it out west. But a HT tire is highway tread is an AT tire is designed for off-road use. LT HT tires and all-season P tires have a rib design with multiple rain sipes and 4 main rain grooves, they all do, and AT tires just do not. Just compare the perfect example above, the picture of the Nitto Terra Grappler vs. the Michelin Defender tread. Not saying everybody buys AT tires for looks, but many do. You can read it all over the truck forums, from Dodge to Ford, to Toyota and the others. They buy AT and even MT tires and some never leave the city or burbs. They buy larger tires to fill the wheel well and wider tires with greater positive offset. There was a comment above about 35" AT tires. Unless that size came with your truck, or they installed taller rear gears, it can cause real trouble when towing. AT over HT tires, less fuel mileage. Taller tires, heavier tires, less fuel mileage. Wider tires, less fuel mileage. And if your tires are oversized from OEM, you can have trouble climbing elevation and possible trans failure.

Yes, overkill for a tow vehicle period. Guys just like the looks. The 3 Nitto AT brands mentioned above, the differences are minor, as they are all AT tires, not at all HT tires. Suggesting that any Nitto Grappler is mostly highway is not accurate. All weather HT tires have 4 main rain grooves. And the outer treads are connected for steering control, NOT staggered like an AT tire. See pic below of the Nitto Terra Grappler (yes, the mildest AT of the brand) and you will quickly see there is not a single highway groove (a rain groove in line with the road) and no outer treads are connected like HT tires. @John E Davies summed it up nicely above, re the soft flexible tread of AT tires. Michelin has softer sidewalls, 4 rain grooves, very hard treads connected inline for pavement, designed for long highway miles. If you live east this, where gravel is scarce, Michelin is the way to go for a tow vehicle. I wanted tires to excel on the highway yet have stronger tread and sidewalls for the rock we have here in Arizona. AT staggered tread in the steering wheels will wander left and right across bad pavement (most of the US these days). Check out the tread in the Continental Terrain Contact AT below. The outer treads are connected for highway control. Just inside these are two huge rain grooves. Only the inner treads are of the staggered AT design. For me, this was the best design for our tow vehicle. Only time will tell as to whether I made the best choice. First pic is the Nitto Terra Grappler tread, then the Continental Terrain Contact AT mounted on my truck and lastly, for comparison, the Michelin Defender where you can see the essence of highway tread in design. Notice the 4 rain grooves and outer tread all connected inline.

Finished my 17" brake upgrade on the driver's side today. Chris helped me with bleeding again. She has a strong right foot; from all the brake jobs I've done! Mounted the front wheels and dropped it off the jack stands. Backed out and WOW these brakes are crazy good! I need to stay off any hard braking for 1000 miles, except if needed for emergency purposes. I drove around the neighborhood, getting up to speed and then dragging the brakes gently. When I got home the brake rotors looked perfect. All the black coating had worn off evenly and nothing there but a perfectly flat steel rotor surface. Nice! 🙂

I had no idea this thread was here! We love it. 😃 I was stuck in the Oliver Campers section vs. this Oliver Camping forum. Thank you @Mike and Carol When we first brought home our Oliver, just this June, everybody kept asking, "Have you gone camping yet?" There was and is a lot of work to do, and the heat of the summer was coming, but it was time to try out the Oliver on a short local trip. Since the heat of the summer was coming, I thought let's head north and camp at high elevation. We picked Kendricks Peak Wilderness Area. It's a lesser-known northern AZ mountain, as compared to say Mt Humphries of the San Francisco Peaks north of Flagstaff, or Bill Williams behind Williams AZ, the gate to the Grand Canyon. We can see ALL of these peaks from our deck at home in Prescott, so I've had my eye on Kendricks for years now (distant view, as it is the furthest north peak in this volcanic range). To get there you exit I-40 just west of Flagstaff, head north and very soon you hit washboard dirt roads. We drove another 25+ miles of dirt until we found our spot. Arizona, and I believe other western states have Forest Service (FS) road maps. When you look closely at these maps (see pic), they show dispersed camping (camping allowed, not campsites) where you see the 'dots' left or right along the side of minor roads. You need to get these FS maps and quadrant maps for where you are traveling. If you do not yet have the Avenza Maps app, get it and download every map where you will travel before you leave home. The map picture is from my phone and the GPS blue dot is where we ended up camping for the weekend.