jd1923

The ones I showed, pictured above sure were honeybees. When they left the cabinet, they left behind a hive in the making and honey dripping. Hope they found a new good home, just not on our deck and hopefully soon not in @Marce's A/C!

I've read the inverter power button must be on and you power it ON/OFF from the remote panel. Not familiar with your model, so that's all I got. I believe @rich.dev and @Rivernerd and several others have this model.

My experience, the spray aggravates them and like you noted often does not work. We had this swarm in a cabinet on our deck this spring. We closed the cabinet, 2 hours after sunset, and my son and I carried it into the yard, laid it down opened so the morning sun would hit it. They left slowly over 3 days. When dark at night they are dormant. So at night, take the cover of your A/C as a first step. If the sun hits the hive straight on, they will likely leave. If you feel braver (I got really used to them after dealing with this swarm of thousands), Take a long-handled scraper blade and dislodge the hive, toss it if you can. If you have to, be ready to descend the ladder quickly, come back later after they have settled down to do more. Dress with heavy clothes, gloves hat and safety glasses.

A common sentiment on the Cummins Forum, is that we only own Rams to house our Cummins. Last gasser Ram I owned was an 80s model with a carbureted 360 CI. No idea on your internal brake control system. You could always disable it and install a Tekonsha. I have this one and it works great. It has a test piston that I push often to see how the trailer brakes are working without applying the truck brakes. Depending on the feel you just dial in more or less, resulting in a voltage adjustment at the trailer wheels. You know exactly how they are working. Tekonsha Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 3 Axles - Proportional Tekonsha Trailer Brake Controller TK90160 (etrailer.com)

He wrote me again this morning in answer to my thank you reply. He spelled out reasons why my display was not working. I replied as follows: “On our Oliver Forum, Sherry writes re you and your company. How great you are and how reliable the Blue Sky products are. She is just about always correct! I’ll let you know after I get new inverter and LiFePO4 batteries installed.”

If it came out completely it can merely be replaced. If it physically broke off leaving the threaded portion, you have to remove the remaining piece without damaging the internal threads. In this case, I would remove the bolt so that the work can be done in a vise. You may have to drill it out and/or use the right size easy-out. Something like this, but caution as this is a job for the experienced DIYer: Easy Out Screw Extractor 5/32" To 7/32" | Aircraft Spruce

Good to know and better than advertised functionality! Thanks for sharing.

Love the look of the Atmos installed! Now we need an updated Oliver design, also with a squared rearend, affording a 36x80" (half King) bed without the rear radius. Just a pipedream, as we could never afford another Oliver, camping and working on this old hull forever! 🤣

Thought about this some more and given my design philosophy is always "Minimum Viable Product" I realized I could just add a 300A breaker with internal cut-off switch. I rarely disconnect anyway since we do not put our Oliver into winter storage. I will have the Victron SmartShunt on the ground and this breaker on red B+ cable. No mounting board, no extra wires or buses, just a little VHB under these two devices, one sitting on each battery. I will start a new Forum Topic soon on my LI and MP2 upgrade. Thanks for sharing! Amazon.com: GLOSO Circuit Breaker E93 for Marine RV Truck Extended Surface Mount 3/8" Diagonal Stud Waterproof IP67 Hi-Amp (300A) : Automotive

There I go again, quoting myself! 🤣 By chance I found the individual electrical runs for the 110v outlets and microwave. This may not be true in newer hulls, but on ours there is one breaker for both. Good news is the run to the microwave is separate and can be wired to a separate breaker, given one available in the panel. Since I will soon eliminate the PD converter/charger I could use its breaker or install a thin double in its place. I already wired the panel in this way but need the PD converter while I have no batteries in ours, working on the new inverter/charger installation. I removed the Xantrex 2KW inverter yesterday. Ours is inverter only, no charger and it also has the Xantrex PROwatt SW external ATS. The freed-up space is perfect to add a DC-to-DC charger or other needs. I also plan to move the solar ON/OFF switch from under the streetside bed to rear dinette. I already upgraded to motorized ball valves so no pulling of the curbside bed, and I want absolutely no reason to move either bed when camping. OTT really needs this as a future design goal! I sure hope the MP2 does not have some kind of manual reset button! What hokey wiring OTT did. Though I'm thinking back in 2016 the solar inverter option was a rare add-on. When I built an inverter system in our past Class-C, I created a split bus in the panel, one side served by the inverter and the other side having A/C and converter/charger breakers only to be powered by shore power. PD actually makes panels with a split bus for this reason, but mine was hand-cut! OTT wired the microwave and 110v outlets into a standard electrical junction box using only wire-nuts to connect these runs to both shore and inverter. These only went through the breaker on the panel when on shore power, otherwise are protected by the GFCI outlet on the inverter. I removed everything you see in this picture, and you can see the junction box at the top of the picture. The second picture shows the two cables that were wired into the box. They are the two white cables you see lose above the panel which I wired into the panel afterwards. Also yesterday, I purchased my Victron MP2 and VE.bus for programming and Bluetooth connection from Inverter Supply, at a good OTD price, no additional costs: Victron Energy PMP122305120 - Inverter Supply The second picture also shows the main shore power cable (heavy black 600V 10-3 cable on LHS). This will be removed. A new 10-3 cable will be wired from the EMS as input to the MP2 and another from MP2 output to the panel so that the inverter handles all loads including air conditioning. When on shore power from either input (grid or generator) it will allow pass-through 120VAC and/or Power Assist when needed. No generator on our rig, just 600AH Epoch and 3KVA MP2. If this doesn't do it, though it should, I can always add more batteries in the basement!

Mine will not be as pretty as Ron's. I'm thinking something like this item as a base and other stock brackets you can get at Lowes or the Depot. Two straps to hold it against the wall with a piece of foam behind the inverter to keep noise an vibration muffled. Two bolts just under the bed lip to hold it all tight. 4 x 4 Post Base 2PCS,Inner Size 3.6"x3.6"Deck Post Base,Heavy Duty Metal Black Powder Coated Post Brackets,for Mailbox Post Deck Supports Porch Railing Post Holders - Amazon.com

I emailed tech support @ sunforge. Ryan replied next day with a very nice note offering his help. He supplied this link: https://sunforgellc.com/how-to-program-bse-charge-controllers-for-lifepo4-batteries/ This will be a last step after new MP2 inverter/charger and LI batteries are installed. Just good to know the old original Blue Sky SC can be reprogrammed. Thanks Sherry! 🙂

That would be my thought, since when working on an automobile the standard is to remove the ground. The picture @katanapilot showed has it on B+. Victron Energy always shows it on the positive side and the shunt on the negative. I'm going to do it this way. Does anybody have a link for the Blue Seas 350-amp switch like the one in the picture, meaning surface mount. Every one that I find online that is surface mount is 300 amps. Thinking with a 3KVA Victron inverter/charger I need the 350. Thanks

Just decided on the MP2 for the sole reason is its dimensions. Wow, the 2x120V version is amazing for those with 50A RV systems but we only need a single 120VAC input and output. There are grid capabilities in the MP2 for home use that doesn't matter for RV usage. The original MP is actually smaller in volume, 2 LBS lighter, but the 8.6" depth vs. 6" is the real difference. Also, the MP has an aluminum casing vs. thin steel which may be better in some climates. Under the streetside bed as Mike @rideadeuce installed will be my choice too. I will figure out a footing and strapping for the MP2 without the heavy HDPE and epoxy. The MP2 is 23" long, almost 9" longer but there is a lot of length under the bed. I just added the Beech Lane dual fan for fridge cooling and if needed this would be a great addition to add it the wall to the rear going to the trunk area. I did not hear from any of the 3 or more Oliver owners with in an installed Multiplus re inverter or fan noise. Sure hope it is not noisy as it will be under my bed! Hoping the MP2 has dual battery terminals. It looks like Mikes does in the pics. I see pics from Victron, some show single screw terminal and most show a built-in terminal/bus with dual screw terminals. I have no interest in Victron Lynx buses or any additional bus for that matter. The Oliver already has DC buses installed. One terminal on the MP2 will of course connect directly to the batteries and I will use the second terminal to run 12VDC to the Oliver buses. There will only be the 4/0 cables in the battery bay. Still working on best price and will place an order Monday latest. I'm getting the Victron VE.Bus Smart dongle to program the MP2 and read status via the Victron app. This would be in place of any wall-mounted display accessories. I read I may also need a Victron Current Transformer for the Power Assist to work effectively. These are relatively inexpensive parts. Yesterday, I removed the lead-acid batteries. Today I'm pulling the 2KW Xantrex inverter, the Xantrex ATS and junction box. This is a complete OTT installed working system if anybody needs one. Put the LA batteries on Craigs, who knows. Will oen up the EMS and the 120V AC panel to ready the wiring. Building the MP2 platform will take some thinking! 😂

I would replace them with same spec as what was OEM installed. Measure your overall length, count the links, measure the length and diameter of each link. The only clue that perhaps you have an older hull is "rust" since you have no signature. Live in the rustbelt? Ours was in the MW when first bought, down in AZ for years now and the chains look like brand new shiny chrome. They installed 3/8" hardened chromed links on ours, each link 2" long. Get highest grade available in the correct size. Overall length +/- a link could depend on where the Anderson mounts were bolted into placed.

I've not heard any brake ticking in the many trailers I've owned. It does not sound right. However, I have never owned a newer truck with a built-in brake controller, so have no experience there. I've always installed Tekonsha aftermarket brake controllers in every truck I've owned, except a for Redarc model installed in our GX470.

Everything has been said, great info here from many members. It's a long 17-page read! 🤣

First, I would say it was designed to be internal. When I saw the pictures on the John E Davies post, I thought it didn't look so good and why get under there with so many wire ties. Good thing not much in way of UV rays down there since zip ties will get weak over time and will break. What if you run over something that grabs the wire? Behind the axle has some protection, in the axle has more. I always go internal. On our Bigfoot RV an F450 frame, when installing a completely new battery/solar/inverter system, I ran two lengths of 10-3 AC cabling from the front where the house batteries and inverter were, through the truck frame, back almost 15 FT and then up to the AC panel. I would have spent hours tying these cables down to the frame but when I realized there was an open internal path the run was made in minutes, fully protected with no wire ties. Then I needed a 14 AWG from the battery monitor to the truck starter battery, again through the frame as much as possible. Recently I installed a new fuel pump in the fuel tank of our Dodge Ram TV. The HP pump came with oversized 1/2" fuel line. I ran it completely though the frame, no better protection for a rubber fuel line. I watched 3-4 YouTube videos, and nobody had this simple idea. I often get installation kits with so many zip ties I do not use and save them for something else. I install things my way and you'll find what's best for you! Like to read re the voltage readings you get. I believe OEM is 14 AWG wire. If you are concerned about voltage drop to the far side of the axle, you could run new 12 AWG on those legs for more durability and negligible voltage drop.

Anybody considering the little Houghton 9.5K model, now would be the time to buy at 11% off! I'm still undecided and delaying this upgrade since I am spending $$$$ on batteries and inverter now: RV Air Conditioner Low Profile 9.5k Quiet AC Unit with Optional Heat Pump and Remote Control, Non-Ducted - RecPro

You'll find my full maintenance procedure on page 2.

I remember removing excess wire. Voltage varies and is controlled by your trailer brake controller. I get Chris to apply the TV brakes, on and off as I check the brake action and adjustment. i would still run the wires through the axles. You just need high-quality, better insulated wire and you can add grommets.

When I serviced my bearings, I cut back all the wires to clean copper and replaced all those old crimps. It's easy enough to run new wire if needed. I would suggest using the old wire to fish new 14 AWG wire, interior to the axles, not exterior using wire ties to the axles as John E Davies showed in an old post.

The question is not to whether to have one. I want to replace it with something more fitting, not a 3x3" brick and something not so butt ugly! I'll figure it out since it appears you all have kept your wonderful piece of art!

This truly upsets me for Chris, and it makes me doubly mad since it appears mine are the same way (now hulls 75, 110, 113 and others?). One mine, it's recessed 1/4 to 3/8" on the outside and I can feel the weld sticking out a good 1/8" on the backside! Neither picture above, @rideandfly nor @Wayfinder shows the inside weld past the steel frame. If ALL hulls from 75 to 113 had this as the specs, then it is NOT a defect. But if some are and some are not, then certainly a defect. I'll get a better picture, but these three pictures look completely different in many ways. Trailer manufactures do not set specs for mounting distance of axles, in this case Dexter does. Were different axles used? Did Dexter change the spec? As @Mountainman198 nicely stated, "have the narrower steel suspension frame replaced with one with a SC of 50.50”, thereby allowing newer axles to be fitted." If you're replacing axles anyway, this would be another hour of labor to bolt on new steel frames, not a manhour concern. However, today like everything else, these steel frames are another considerable expense added to an axle upgrade. If I was to do this on our hull, I would determine the required length spec, take measurements, remove the steel frames and have a local welder replace the hangers. Or simply hold on to and service the original equipment as Chris has done.

Santa came today, Christmas in July! Never received such beautiful batteries 600AH total. They came just before I started teaching my class today, got the FedEx guy to get them in my garage. On a break, I had to open one! Measures 13.12V in the box. Got to buy my new inverter ASAP. Love it!