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I settled on the timer/relay setup with details provided by member MTT for the 2801 9.5 BTU installed on our 2018 Casita. After several tests settled on the following P1-5 timer settings: T1-45, T2-120. Times are in seconds. We are leaving for a 10 day trip to Minnesota later this month so will have actual performance to report back how unit performed on the road, different climates. Also tried changing thermistor location with details provided by GSM. With new thermistor from Amazon the installation was very simple on the 9.5, was able to follow same path as factory thermistor to route wire from control box to inside. With timer removed, tested operation with relay and new thermistor relocated to cabin at different locations, I found for my situation the timer provided better temperature consistency. With timer/relay setup installed I would start unit and adjust set temperature to 60, run on high fan until set temperature met, then with remote change set temperature to desired level and low fan. From there unit performed good, cycled off/on, humidity low, and temps were good. Am going to stay with this setup until we complete out of town trip. If time allows I would like to play with T1 setting of 45 seconds, perhaps increase to 60 seconds.

Good news, I just solved the electrical mystery about 1-hour ago. It turns out that one of the electrical connectors going to the master light switch had fractured and when I pulled on the wire the female end remained connected to the switch. I replaced the connector, reattached the wire and all lights are now functioning. I am so glade it was not a problem with a wire in the wall. Thanks to all who provided thoughts and recommendations. I am sure it is not the last challenge I will face given the Ollie basically experiences a 4 or 5 on the Richter scale each time it gets towed. Also, I have added a multimeter to my Ollie tool box. The forum is a great place to go to learn and find support.

Overreact much? I received the IcoTek 90° cable entry kit from MMH today. It's going to work great, and I won't need a box. I'm going to test drill different diameter holes in some thin plywood, and see how small I can go and still get all seven wires through. Then I'll go with the next larger size that I can find a grommet for. Antenna will be on a mast bracket hanging from the rear awning mount. As previously noted, my Pepwave MAX BR1 Pro is in the attic, and currently using the stub antennas. Yesterday I added a second SIM card from T-Mobile that I got through FMCA. Three months free (from my Mobile Internet Resource Center membership) gives us time to compare it with the Verizon plan through MMH. The router feeds my Apple TV and UefyCam security camera hub via Ethernet, and our phones, tablets, and Sonos Move via wifi. Later I'll add remote temperature sensing and hopefully a full Victron setup. The router and antenna on the tow vehicle may work for you, JD, and is an easy install. But I don't have a truck, and have no intention of poking holes in my lifelong dream SUV. And, I have devices that I want to be always connected, and that wouldn't be the case with the system in the TV. There are options we can all chose, and just because I'm not doing it like you, doesn't warrant that haranguing...

If you look at my photo above, the wiring looks like automotive grade 14 AWG, though I have not measured it to be certain. 14 AWG wire has ampacity of 15A (16 AWG is 10A). 65W / 12 = 5.4A Given @rideadeuce has installed his and of course he has the Victron app, he could check amps before, then plug in an iPad and check the negative change in amps to verify actual usage numbers vs. theorical. I believe you'd be OK, but if 'twas me, I would upgrade the dinette area to the 65W and run new dedicated wiring to a dedicated fuse, since the fuse box is <2 FT away. Ampacity and voltage drop over cable length. The run to the overhead streetside bed is a long run and who knows if OTT has these outlets shared with anything else on the same run (wiring and fuse). There I would install the lesser wattage model for phones (20W) like the one I linked above, to be safer. We normally charge our laptops at the dinette anyway or via the 110V outlet at the nightstand and we charge our phones over the bed to be handy, so this arrangement works well for our usage.

It's been a year since mine was out-of-the-box new and installed but it does sound familiar to the time when I did not have the compressor fan relay mod and relocated indoor temperature sensor in the equation. I just used mine this weekend (it's in an Airstream, not an Oliver) parked in full sun and low 90s for the highs. When set to auto, my fan will come on high for a short while and then taper down to low as it gets cooler inside. During the hot part of the day, it would run on low for quite a while (an hour?) which was fine with me. It's very quiet and it kept the inside temperature at a comfortable 74 degrees which was the set point. At night, I like it cooler. I would set it to 70 degrees and it would maintain that. On cycles during the night were frequent and short. I don't know what the interior humidity was because I've stopped measuring it as that problem seems to be solved. My application is different from yours, though. I do not have the timer mod installed in mine but I do have the fan relay mod. Moving the indoor temperature sensor was a pretty easy task with my RV but might be significantly more difficult in the Olivers and Casitas.

@jd1923All good questions. First, I had to clean up the tray and paint it, so all the batteries had to be removed. Also, I have the new converter, so I was thinking "maybe" that had something to do with it, as I'm still learning the system. The great news is I'm learning and there's no better way to learn the system's behavior than with old gear that I cannot wait to get rid of. LOL I too noticed the light still on from the solar, but I just now noticed it takes a few moments to go out after killing the power. I've shutdown the rig for the night, all breakers open or off and no shore power. It's 9pm and I'm taking readings on the batteries until I go to bet in a couple hours. I'll check to see if there is any "real" drain on the batteries in the morning. Heck, I even pulled the emergency break pin to ensure the drain increased by the expected -12amps, and it did. I suspected maybe a stuck break or something. I'm suspecting the BlueSky is wonky at this point since taking out the batteries for a day or so. Heck, it's old and it may have lost it's marbles, I know I am. I'll be at the factory next week, for other extensive upgrades, maybe I can get them to upgrade the solar controller along with batteries too, but maybe not Lithium right now. But that's a larger discussion with Jason, his team, and my wallet. Again, I'm winging all this right now. Not sure which way I "need" to go at this moment in the trailer's life, or my own travel plans, Lithium or AGM. I know all the pros and cons with the batteries, all too well. Decissions, decissions! $$ Cha-ching $$ I'm not sure how long it takes for the batteries to "settle down" from being on a charger since the trailer was on shore power. I did notice, with all this heat we have in GA, that the new converter fan was running when I opened the panel box. I don't think I ever noticed the old fan running. Maybe it was dead, but that's not -2.3 amps worth, especially when the converter breaker was off during earlier testing. 13.14v - 9:25pm 13.07v - 9:40pm Thanks for all the great suggestions. It curious to me at this point. Chris

Follow up on this post - Anyone here with the Victron Multiplus that can verify the power boost function adequately starts their A/C when using a single 2200 watt inverter generator? I tried starting our Houghton/Rec-Pro A/C with paralleled Honda 2200's in ECO mode without success. Contemplating addition of a soft-start, but might not be necessary if the Victron MP2 can provide enough amps to get past the inrush current during compressor start.

Mike, I know you did the Epoch battery upgrade. Did you ever install a Victron MP2? I've been under the dinette rear seat a bit lately. Wasted my time on adding a KISAE ATS since the Victron MP2 has an internal ATS. I just spent an hour or more figuring out this same scenario in my head and came back in the house and searched for the term 'Multiplus' and found your post. We came to the same conclusion, as what you wrote above appears correct to me. You only need L2 for AC circuits you do not want to run off battery. I do not fully understand the L2 output, because if it is a pass-thru why do they mention 40ms? But for the Oliver, with 920AH in batteries and soon you will have an efficient Atmos A/C, you could connect the MP2 L1 output to the entire 120V AC panel, just as the wiring coming from the EMS powers the full panel today (you can see this wiring in the picture). The MP2 is 50A capable and we have a 30A panel and shore power connection. I would imagine with this setup you could run the A/C and microwave at the same time and perhaps more given enough battery SOC. I just measured mine. So, the Xantrex 2000 will come out and the Victron ATS and junction box (not visible), and the KISEA top left in the pic will all be removed. The PD charger can also come out of the panel, and I figured a larger cooling fan could go there and maybe a 3" vent at the top of the dinette seat. With all that removed, the space on mine is 20" wide, 16 1/2" tall and full depth is 11". The MP2 measures 14.3" tall, 10.2" wide and 8.6" deep. There is just enough space to wire it vertically as suggested, with maybe enough room for cabling out of the bottom and no extra room on top (should be 4"). There is ample space to mount it horizontally and with a vent and fan. It would be cool if an external fan can be controlled by the MP2 as it has so many ports, some programmable. For me funding an A/C upgrade, LI batteries and the MP2 will take a while, but I believe it is a great plan to pursue.

Yes, that is the same plastic box and I did remove about 2/3 of one of the dividers to mount the timer. I also cut two small slots on each side to catch the mounting clips of the timer. For your information, I have seen at least one YouTube video where someone removed and discarded the plastic box to mount something else in its place. This is a bad idea as the plastic box/spacer has a purpose. It is there to ensure that the air flows correctly over the coils.

My wife says ours has a faint smell, same smell when we bought it from past owners after considerable cleaning. They had a runner and floor mats which I had cleaned and then decided not to use again. I believe the flooring might has a slight smell. Don't smell it when camping but will so after it's been closed up for a while. We are going to do a serious floor cleaning after I get done with upgrades this summer. Maybe a past owner had a litter box under the dinette or that's where the dog slept. We want to really clean the floor but not sure what to use. Wonder if anybody has replaced their flooring in an Oliver?

I am also looking forward to replacing the original air conditioner with a quieter version. Still waiting to find one that works out of the box without me rigging home made fixes to make it operate as it should. A year or so ago I almost purchased a Houghton unit until I found out that they had changed the operating profile. I had wire that color matched the furnace wire, a manual thermostat, I had run a pull wire from furnace to the thermostat area, sealant, etc. all ready. I even had a hoist partially set up to lift the old unit off and set the new unit on. I’m still waiting and looking. The Freshjet unit is one that now looks promising.

A big shout out and huge thank you to the Sea Biscuit Team, and to owners Kristine Hess & David Hess for our hand crafted “ OLLIE HANGAR” custom S/S sign that we won at this years rally. We also have the Sea Biscuit front cargo box which completes our Oliver storage and we love it! Awesome metal craftsmanship made right here in the USA.

Curious if the "box" used to mount your timer and relay is the same plastic device that has to be removed to get into electrical box? Just have to cut out the plastic dividers to allow room to install devices? The 18/4 in the parts list can be used to make connections from circuit board to devices?

Personally, I believe the utility box install is extreme overkill. We are NOT installing a 5KW inverter with 1800W solar system in a Class-A, not by any means! Are you needing a 1 1/2" conduit for another half-dozen future rooftop additions, NOT! Please think about the simple realities. I installed solar on a previously owned RV, by merely drilling two (2) 1/4" holes through the roof, for the two (+/-) 10 AWG solar panel feeds. No box, no Icotech entry solutions, just two simple 1/4" holes and a drip of Dicor on each, still working today, with no leaks. Or you can mount a big-@ss box. You can imagine what my choice would be! 🤣 It's up to you, do you want to mount a 6x10" box and blow two tubes of Dicor all over the roof of your beautiful Oliver? BTW, a rectangular junction box does not fit nicely on the curved roof of the Oliver! Most professional installers are young and inexperienced and it's up to you to make the best decisions for your assets. When the guy doesn't agree with you, just hire a new guy. Sorry @Wildbrew although your install is yes BEAUTIFUL, a work of art, and you should truly be proud of your exceptional work, it's simply overkill! Could be done with no platform and no large rooftop box. (Still love your work yet hoping to advise many others that less is more). We are to each our own, yet simple is often better. Think hard about your decision. I did my truck mount install in two days, not a single drill hole into our Oliver, just sayin'! I was working my job last week, teaching my online PMP class when Sparklight went down, resulting in no household Internet. While my students were waiting for just a minute or so, I connected to our truck-based Pepwave cellular router Wi-Fi, with T-Mobile 5G cellular service only missing a heartbeat or two. They had no idea I was gone for a minute. My truck-based Internet service is my also my business back-up internet service, without an installation hole in the Oliver! 😂

My plans is/was to use this bulkhead fitting through the roof as a cable guide and into a utility box on the roof. If this fits in the Icotec 90 degree fitting, I’m golden! Just a drilled hole through the outer hull into the attic. https://a.co/d/0anCrU1v

I have not. I am going to mount it on the rear port awning mount using the Parsec pole mount. https://mobilemusthave.com/products/pole-mount-bracket-assembly-for-parsec-doberman-collie I will come down through that portion of the attic, since it is only single hull there, and use Icotec gland. I just haven’t figured what sort of entry box to use yet. I’m thinking something like this Winnebago roof port. https://www.winnebago.com/lifestyle/winnebagolife/gear/install-your-tech-gear-easier-with-winnebagos-new-roof-port

All power disconnected from RV Removed the cover from the 2801 AC, located the metal electrical box and removed cover. I was able to locate terminals for Low fan, compressor, and looking for possible location for new timer/relay box. Thanks again for your quick response to my questions. When it comes to electrical the only dumb question (for me) is the one I don't ask. In this case I would have done some real damage "assuming" I understood how to proceed.

I apologize for unintentionally creating confusion. The schematic diagram posted above was meant to illustrate the ports for the coil sensors. It also has the conceptualized wiring plan for the new relay. The conceptualized plan was drawn prior to knowing what my wire color choices were going to be limited to based on my wire supply. Please ignore the wire color labels in that diagram. To be more precise about your question though. . . When you open the cover to this control box, you will see the thin white wire from the factory connected to the low fan speed blade. You want to remove it from that blade and reattach it to the COM blade on the new relay. Then, take a section of your own wire that you'll need to supply (about 10") and connect one end to the low fan speed blade and the other end to the Normally Open (NO) blade of the new relay. In the pictures from the v2 PDF document, both of these wires are white with the new wire that I had to supply being the thicker wire. Hope this helps and I apologize for creating the confusion.

jd1923, maybe a couple of reasons to want a separate charger/inverter. My older hull number trailer has separate units already and it all works well so I’ll probably just leave well enough alone. Also, seems like the newer trailers with the combined units are having issues with both. If one unit goes down nothing works. I seldom ever turn on the charger anyway, I let the sun do its thing. Seldom use my generator as well. We’ll plug in if it’s available, sometimes. Really the only thing that must be plugged in is the air conditioner, everything else can run comfortably on either DC directly or on the inverter. The only situation that we would have had a problem is when we were caught in the Texas deep freeze about four years ago. Several days with little sun and highs in the twenties and lows in the single digits. Fortunately we had shore power the whole time. It’s a blessing to be able to own a trailer that is set up so that it really doesn’t matter if we have power or not and can easily allow us to camp most anywhere. I love it when a campground apologizes for not having a site with water or electricity and being able to say that it doesn’t matter we’ll be comfortable anywhere.

My only real dilemma is when in storage on shore power and I want to run the A/C when doing maintenance or cleaning, which the facility’s 15A shore power will not allow. Before LFPs, I would run a generator on propane to enable use of the A/C, now the process is much simpler! When needed, I generally just unplug the power cable and run the A/C via the inverter. Away from storage I always have 30A service, either at home or a campsite, and can run the A/C on shore power. The above described scenario is only one reason for wanting to be able to run the A/C on battery, but the primary reason was for use when underway during stops for rests and/or meals. You know the gig!

My Oliver Elite II is a 2016 model that I purchased from the factory with factory solar and 4 T-105 Trojan lead acid batteries. Over the 8 years with the lead acid batteries I never saw the charge level of the batteries below 83% full! Mind you that I'm very conservative regarding energy usage to include having only actually run the furnace twice over this time. I also never have the inverter on unless I'm actually using it and even then it was seldom used for more than 6 minutes at a time (a good sized baked potato in the microwave). However, even though the batteries were still performing as they should, I simply thought that as I approached my 9th year, I was simply taking too much of a risk that these batteries would leave me stranded while out in the middle of nowhere. So, in late 2023 I began my search for replacements. Since I do not live under a rock, I was reasonably aware of the "long-term" benefits of switching to lithium batteries. But, in the short-term, the expense of this kind of upgrade was a bit difficult to justify. Note here that I live in the mountains of North Carolina and do most of my camping in the summer at altitude in the Rockies where sleeping at night is usually a question of how many blankets versus will I be cool enough. Yes, the driving trip from NC to the Rockies each year can be a bit warm (think 100 degrees going across TN, IL, MO, KS and the eastern plains of the Rockies) and, yes, it would be nice to power the a/c via the batteries on rare occasion. But, I made the decision that until my current 2000 watt inverter dies, I would not spend the extra money to upgrade which would certainly add to the overall cost of the project. In addition, I'm not a big cell phone user and prefer a simpler life. Given the energy usage noted above plus I do not need to let anyone know that I'm presently on isle #5 at my local WalMart, and, I don't want or see the need to be attached at the hip with a cell phone. So, going into this replacement of the lead acids I simply assumed that I'd purchase something that I could "drop in", use the same wiring that came from the factory along with the same Blue Sky MPPT solar controller, IPN remote (shows typical shunt readings), existing cables, and not change a thing (or at least very little) from what has worked very well over the past 8 years. The price of lithium batteries was/is still coming down but was still too high to justify the extra expense versus the alternatives. OK - this is the base from which I started and certainly I recognize that my situation does not apply to everyone - nor should it. After looking at several alternatives I had almost decided on purchasing 4 VMAX XTR6-235 AGM batteries at $1370. Of course, another possible alternative would have been the Brightway Group EVGC-220A-AGM batteries at 4 for $995.00. But, I saw a YouTube video by Will Prowse that highlighted the LiTime 230 amp hour lithium batteries. Next it was the Christmas holidays and I saw that the LiTimes were discounted plus I could get an additional 8% off my order since I had served in the military. So, with 2 of the 230-amp hour batteries plus 2 bus bars, my total for 460 amp hours was near $1,075* – well within the cost of non-lithium batteries. Yes, I was aware that the LiTimes "only" had a warranty of 5 years versus the 10 years for Battle Borns or the 11 years for the Epoch. But, since most (if not all) of these lithium battery cells are made in China (with some assembled into the batteries we see in the USA) I figured that since the LiTimes are about half the cost, if they died at 5 years I would still break even versus the Battle Born's. The "final straw" was seeing Ronbrink's post** on his install of the LiTimes! Upon receiving the 2 batteries*** (3 days after order) I found that the battery terminals were recessed relative to the tops of the batteries. Therefore, I purchased 4 terminal blocks with 250-amp fuses at a cost of $68 on Amazon. So, I was just about set for the install at a total price of just under $1,150. Next, I took a hard look at the wiring necessary for the install. My original intention was to install the bus bars either inside the Oliver (near the solar controller) or on the wall inside the battery box. But, for the "quick and easy" install that I was hoping for it appeared that I could use the two 4/0 cables (each about 7 inches long - end of lug to end of lug) plus two additional cables of this length that (hopefully) I could get from a fellow Ollie owner. Indeed, Mossemi came to my rescue and supply me with those two cables that he no longer needed after his Lithium conversion. Putting this all together resulted in what appeared to be a nice tight package that I could simply "drop into " the existing space in the battery compartment. I "bench" tested the batteries in my workshop and even performed what is called a "top balance" on the two batteries just to make sure that they were ready to go (i.e. a "top balance" is performed by charging each battery to 100% and then connecting the two batteries together and letting them adjust to each other for 4 to 24 hours). Indeed, the 2 LiTime batteries easily fit into the existing space and I had some foam blocks that I used to make sure that the fit was snug. Also, the original Oliver tie-down straps could be used to hold the new batteries in place. When connecting the cables from the Oliver I found that I needed to slightly alter the openings into the bus bars so that the “tops” of the bus bars would seat nicely onto their bases. This was simply done using a Dremel tool. And, even though the LiTimes have “low temperature charging protection” (lithium batteries should not be charged when they reach a temperature of below approximately 32 degrees) I decided to insulate the battery compartment door with some ½ inch foam board. Finally, my original intent was to keep my original converter which did not have a lithium battery setting. These old converters will charge a lithium battery, but, it would not charge it to 100% full. However, upon resetting the Blue Sky solar controller from the Lead Acid parameters to the Lithium parameters, the solar panels would take care of getting the total charge in the new batteries to 100%. But, I saw a lithium capable converter on Amazon Warehouse for $147 and could not resist****. With a total cost of now just under $1,300 I was in the lithium world with (hopefully) longer lasting batteries and considerably more usable amp hours than the T-105's I started with. In addition, should the inverter decide to fail, I can now replace it with a 3,000 watt inverter and be in a position to run the a/c off the batteries for a short period of time. During the Owner's Rally and in the weeks after the Rally, the batteries, solar, and converter have all been working as they should. I would still prefer to install a battery cut-off switch but that will have to wait until the summer camping season is over. In a nutshell, here is what I did: 1. Disconnected the solar panels via the cutoff switch (street side bed) and opened fuses near the negative bus bar (also street side bed) and do not be connected to shore power. 2. Removed the old Trojan batteries (disconnect negative terminals first and take pics of wiring configuration prior to disconnect). 3. Cleaned all wiring connections. 4. Cleaned battery box and repainted tray. 5. Inserted new LiTime batteries and connected the two battery cables to the first and third bus bar posts, the main negative from the Oliver to the second post and the other negative cables to the fourth post. Performed the same procedure with the positive cables. 6. Closed the two cutoff fuses near the solar controller. 7. Reprogrammed the MPPT controller via the IPN Remote using setting provided by LiTime. 8. Disconnected the charge wire from my tow vehicle – actually I removed fuse #17 in my 2023 F-150. 9. Verified that the dip switch inside the solar charge controller was turned off – you do not want to “equalize” lithium batteries. 10. Verified that the solar system and the new converter were operating correctly and were charging as appropriate. Bill Notes *As of 6-24-2024 the price of 2 LiTime 230 amp hour batteries is $1048. **Part of Ronbrink’s install can be found at: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3333-battle-born-lithium-ion-12-volt-batteries-in-an-oliver/page/3/#comment-98774 AND https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9395-prime-deals-on-battleborn-and-renogy-suitcase-solar/#comment-99676 *** I wanted 2 batteries to protect myself in the event one of the 2 developed a problem. ****Installation of the lithium capable converter can be found at https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4812-how-to-progressive-dynamics-pd4045-lithium-upgrade/

Concerning the issue of running the Dometic air conditioner on battery power through the 2,000 watt inverter. I realized that I stated that the inverter could handle 2,000 watts load. (I have gone back to my original post and corrected it) Actually the inverter is very similar to a 2,000 watt generator. The Zantrex inverter will run 1,800 watt loads continuously and 3,000 watts surge not 2,000 watts continuously. The Dometic air conditioner draws about 1,600-1,700 watts. The inverter will be at it’s limits so absolutely no other AC loads while running the air conditioner!

If you haven’t resolved the issue, check the backside of the fuse box where individual wiring is connected via spade connectors. I recently lost power to the fridge and found the connector leading to its’ respective fuse loose. Not the best pic, but shows the wire bundle to look for; the red wire on the top goes to the fridge, which will require a new female spade connector to remedy.

@SeaDawg again, thanks for all the good advice. @topgun2 I'm starting a clean thread on this as not to drive SeaDawg crazier. LOL I was hoping to do a systems upgrade in pieces, if possible. First converter (in the mail), then batteries, etc - if that makes sense. Right now with hull #110 (2016), I have all original equipment, except batteries. Currently Flooded lead-acid. I have the Xantrex 2000W inverter with the BlueSky Solar controller and ProRemote. I did just pick up a new Victron Smartshunt, but holding off installing it until I choose new batteries. I'm an IT guy of 30 years, so not a complete dumb monkey, but maybe a bit slow at first. LOL. I'm always scared to try new things by myself, failing with someone else is not that bad. Also just ordered the new Progressive Industries converter (PD4045CSV) to allow for Lithium charging. Great threads on these forums for all that stuff! I was wondering if the Bluesky Solar controller can be configured to properly charge most Lithiums. I can always call Ryan, if he's still at BlueSky. He showed me how to configure the controller using the ProRemote panel. I'm okay with it. Naturally, I'd love all Victron stuff, if it would fit nicely. And again, I want some hand-holding by a qualified person. Maybe I'll seek out a pro who would allow me to work with them to learn. Some do, especially in the Van community. I'm not yet looking at running the A/C off of batteries. That'll take a newer A/C unit. Not a priority at the moment and keeping it as simple as possible. Realizing I'm just learning and dreaming, and there are MANY paths from which to choose, here's just one idea I was recently considering, due to battery form-factor in the current battery box & tray area. I'm sure there are negatives I'm not thinking about yet. Can I, or should I, do this in stages? Naturally money will be a factor, and I'm a working stiff, so time can be an issue. One thought is to install two 320AH Dakota DL+ batteries to make for a simple and clean wiring setup with redundancy built-in. I was briefly considering a single 320AH battery from Dakota, or any good battery, however, that does not give me any redundancy if one battery fails on a long trip. I'm okay with Battleborns, 12v 100AH, but I'd want very clean connections, maybe a custom bus bar to connect all the batteries with shrink tubing and covers to protect connector bars. At best, I currently only have 160 Ah useable in my old crappy lead-acids. Likely less due to age. Pics are not to scale. I am subject to all the things I have not yet considered, that you will teach me. LOL Thanks!

Thank you @Ronbrink and @mountainoliver, I was made aware of this solution and the KISAE ATS 20A from posts you made previously. I must have one wire on the Input side off (from the breaker panel/shore power). The output side must be fine since the A/C is running on inverter. Where I mounted my box the power cord just makes it straight down to the inverter. I'll check the wiring today. It's not a good design where you cannot physically see the wire connections and the screw dia is barely wider that the wire gauge. Changing to standard metal clamp type openings would also make the wiring easier. I'll get it today unless the ATS is defective. My 2KW Xantrex inverter got rather hot running the Penguin for <8 minutes and I don't plan to do that again. This will be for when we upgrade to a new more efficient air conditioner. My plan also includes 900 AH in Epoch LiFePO4 batteries. A final upgrade in future years would be a 3KW inverter, hopefully one with hardwired 120V terminals and built-in ATS.