SAE solar plug upgrade

[rideadeuce]

Finally, got around to switching out old Zamp solar SAE plug that used reverse polarity. Switched to industry standard polarity so I don't have to use a polarity reversal adapter to recharge house batteries with Goal Zero panels. Plus the cap had broken off and I already had an open sealant tube from other projects. 

Best,

Mike

Edited May 18 by rideadeuce

[MAX Burner]

Nice one, Mike - we've done the same drill...  Do you have the negative lead from the SAE connector going to your SmartShunt? Just curious...

[rideadeuce]

8 minutes ago, MAX Burner said:

Nice one, Mike - we've done the same drill...  Do you have the negative lead from the SAE connector going to your SmartShunt? Just curious...

Yes, sure do.

[jd1923]

On 5/18/2024 at 12:46 PM, rideadeuce said:

When I see pics like this, it's such a shame. OTT should REALLY start using adhesives or VHB tape on so many parts attached the fiberglass hulls, both inner and outer. Look at the cracking at EVERY hole. There is a little stress on this terminal when plugging and unplugging, and it's not weight bearing.

Same goes for interior switch panels and truly dozens of items. We would be able to replace parts and upgrade without concern of screw hole alignment. Many of you fear drilling into your Olivers. OTT should have more concern re this matter.

[rideadeuce]

I have to agree most things can be attached with proper prep using VHB tape, especially on fiberglass, it is a perfect medium for VHB tape. I was actually going to use it to attach the rain guard on the new Maxx-Air fan but decided not to use the guard at all. My two 90 watt panels I installed up top are held in place by VHB only. I did use some backup attachment screws for the wiring mounted on the aluminum solar panel frame. It's been 4-5 years and everrything has held up great. AmSolar.com swears by it, says they have never had a panel come off that was installed correctly. One does hate to drill into the beautiful, waterproof fiberglass unnecessarily, maybe with time, more and more people will ask for VHB tape's use. 

The drive for its use also needs to come from the manufactures of 3rd party items to make them more conducive to VHB tape installation. This is I am sure is not a priority for them but it sure would be nice for us. 

https://amsolar.com/shop/mounting-accessories/#

Edited May 21 by rideadeuce

[jd1923]

24 minutes ago, rideadeuce said:

I have to agree most things can be attached with proper prep using VHB tape, especially on fiberglass, it is a perfect medium for VHB tape. I was actually going to use it to attach the rain guard on the new Maxx-Air fan but decided not to use the guard at all. My two 90 watt panels I installed up top are held in place by VHB only...

I purchased the upgraded fan when a post came up last year. I will install it this summer with VHB with no rain guard as well. I learned the benefits of VHB in 2019 when installing a complete solar/inverter system in our Bigfoot Class-C. I doubled the solar mounts to be certain of strength (likely not necessary).

Most roof-top items in the pic were installed by me, solar, new AC, Dish, 2 fantastic fans (old ones had manual cranks) and new fridge vent cap (everything white in color). I did the Dish first and regrettably used screws on that install.

Each solar mount has 1x3" VHB 4950 and not one screw. The bigfoot has a fiberglass roof too and don't gunk up your install thinking you need Dicor on top for absolutely no reason, yuck hate the stuff. VHB is UV and weather resistant and remember there are no hole in the fiberglass, no way to leak rainwater. Five years later, the new owner has no complaints and I believe 3M states VHB has an expected 20-year life.

Edited May 21 by jd1923

[Geronimo John]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

Look at the cracking at EVERY hole.

It's the screws that cause cracking, not the drilling of holes when properly done.   In this case, the holes were in play and the fixture was set up with holes.  So, Mike pretty much needed to use the holes.   However, use of SS bolts, nylock nuts and washers on the inside would likely reduce further cracking.  

[rideandfly]

Used through bolts, lock nuts, and backing plate when installing the Furrion 10A solar port.

Later modified the 10A Furrion Port to install a 20A Zamp port in the existing Furrion port, working great, too.

 

[Patriot]

1 hour ago, rideandfly said:

Used through bolts, lock nuts, and backing plate when installing the Furrion 10A solar port.

Later modified the 10A Furrion Port to install a 20A Zamp port in the existing Furrion port, working great, too.

 

 

 

 

 

Very clean aka Sano Bill! Nice work!

[jd1923]

5 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

It's the screws that cause cracking, not the drilling of holes when properly done.   In this case, the holes were in play and the fixture was set up with holes.  So, Mike pretty much needed to use the holes.   However, use of SS bolts, nylock nuts and washers on the inside would likely reduce further cracking.  

Agreed, the use of wood screws has cracked the fiberglass. It's very difficult with fiberglass to apply the right amount of torque to fasten and not overtighten.

I would want to fill these cracked holes, to redrill cleanly or to use VHB afterwards depending. Does anybody know a good fill product for screw holes in fiberglass? Some kind of epoxy that plays well with fiberglass.

@rideandfly's install is beautiful! OTT should consider this approach. However, there are times in installation work, where you do not have access to the back side to thread a nut.

[aaronorange]

I haven't used it on an Oliver but from my fiberglass boating life, I liked MarineTex, Epoxy.