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Posted (edited)

Of course, right before a trip, something is wonky.  I can not get cold water to the toilet or bathroom faucet with city water or the pump!  It was working before I moved the trailer today for new tires.  Hot water works fine in both the kitchen and bath vanity sink.  I removed the inlet hose to the toilet and cleaned what debris I could.  (This has happened to me in the past)  No luck.  If the sprayer/faucet at the bath sink was clogged, I can't imagine hot water would come out, so I did not take it apart.   I have cold water at the kitchen sink and at the outdoor shower.   Where do I check the cold water lines to the toilet and bath?  I may try vinegar in the cold water lines bypassing the hot water heater.  ..  Thanks for any additional help ..I leave in a day!  Ugh!

Edited by csevel

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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Posted

@csevel new tires and now this, OMG bummer. Never heard of such!

What do you get in the outdoor shower? Run this hot n cold. Are your valves for Boondocking/winterizing in correct position? Let us know re the outdoor shower, whether it has cold, or just hot like the others.  

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted

Also, turn your HWH bypass on and off a few times while running hot and cold through the kitchen sink. Is the kitchen sink getting cold water?

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted (edited)

I get both hot and cold at the outdoor shower, and yes the valves are in the normal operating position.  Kitchen gets cold water.  Nothing changed.  When moving the trailer to get tires, it was hooked up to city water.  I have well water that is softened at that hose and I like to driveway camp so I use the water system often.  Everything was in working order before today.  -...and btw, the water heater was cleaned in the spring with a new anode.  I do it every year without fail.

I was reading on RVLifePro forum that if you use a low point drain without isolating the HWH, you can create a weird syphon that can pull crap backwards out of the HWH into the cold water line.   It can then go into the toilet line next time you pressurize and use the system.  I never knew this could happen so that's why I probably get gunk at the toilet inlet valve!  I drain, fill and lightly sanitize my fresh water tank many times throughout a season!

I decided to use a small amount of vinegar poured into the city water hose and have gotten some movement in the cold line to the bath sink and toilet.  

I'm going to do a full winterization vinegar process tomorrow with the rear port bypassing the water heater and see what happens.  Would it behoove me to put a check valve in the feed to the WH?

Any other tips are greatly appreciated.  

Edited by csevel

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted

Your hot water is working everywhere, so don’t work any hot water maintenance. Do you have a shop aid compressor?

I would connect air to the city inlet at 50-60 PSI and blow air through the cold water lines at all 4 outlets on and off. You need to make a tool like this:

IMG_2015.jpeg

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted

If you do not have a high volume shop compressor, make a 1/4” air to 3/4” hose fitting like this with hardware store parts (Walmart, TSC, etc)  and run your trailer by the shop where you just spent $$$ on tires and borrow their air line. You have something blocking the main water line going to the front of you Oliver.

Push to 80 PSI if you have to! PEX IS rated to 100 PSI.

Best wishes, Godspeed and prayers for your quick departure. JD

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted

I have a compressor.  Going off now to Ace Hardware to get the parts to make your thinga-ma-giggy.   After just using some vinegar poured into hose, I've gotten some movement of water in the toilet.  I've bypassed the hot water heater and I'm going to also try a vinegar solution through the rear port, let it sit a bit and see if that helps.  The aerator on the bath faucet is completely clean and so is the pre-filter for the pump.  I'm completely stumped.   I hope blowing air through the lines will work and not blow more debri further into elbows or fittings.

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2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, csevel said:

I have a compressor.  Going off now to Ace Hardware to get the parts...

Given you have no cold water to the front of the trailer, the air cannot hurt, hopefully help. With air applied, I would push the toilet pedal first since you already cleaned that filter and can again. Then try the bathroom sink.

Good to try vinegar and keep the HWH valve shut for that and the compressed air. Found this plumbing diagram (newer than your hull and mine since it shows Truma HWH). Appears there is one cold line going to the front and somehow, who knows how, this is blocked. It shows one side of one T-fitting goes to the front and yours must be blocked there or along the path to the front. I've never heard of this before either. Good luck!

Oliver Plumbing Schematic.jpeg

Edited by jd1923

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
12 hours ago, csevel said:

btw, the water heater was cleaned in the spring with a new anode.  I do it every year without fail.

Could read this two ways.  There may be cases where an annual anode replacement is necessary.  But for the vast majority of us, we get 3-5 years service from our anodes.  

12 hours ago, csevel said:

I'm going to do a full winterization vinegar process tomorrow

Assuming you winterize annually   🙂    The "vinegar de-calcification process" is normally not needed every year as well.  I do mine every even numbered year (2022, 2024 etc.). Others with soft water use can go years between de-calcifications. 

 

14 hours ago, csevel said:

it was hooked up to city water

The following will not help you now, but certainly will be useful as a reminder on how to keep foreign stuff out of our water systems:

  • Do you flush out your hose to eliminate spiders and other friends before hooking up to Ollie or the water filter? .  
  • Do you install your water filter at the trailer and never at the faucet? 
  • Do you use a water filter EVERY time you fill tanks or hook up to city water? 

All of these are good practices all owners should take note of and remember to not do.

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

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Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I would connect air to the city inlet at 50-60 PSI and blow air through the cold water lines at all 4 outlets on and off.    ...  Push to 80 PSI if you have to! PEX IS rated to 100 PSI.

image.gif.0e2cf108c2a66134ba42828f538e6ef7.gifSorry JD, but I strongly recommend changing your process.  Especially to a first timer using high pressure air!  Way too much risk for "water hammer" damage.  The reason is that with some air and water already in the lines and up to 80 PSI, the air compressor will blast air and water slugs down the lines at high velocity.  When they hit a fitting or a closed valve, the inertial forces of the water slugs can cause significant damage.

If using air, start out with 15 psi and flush out all the water.  Then move up to 20 PSI repeat working up to 30 PSI MAX.  I strongly discourage any air connections beyond 30 PSI.  In fact I would never choose to use air pressure at all in my system unless I was blowing out lines that are disconnected at both ends.  Just too risky.

GJ

 

Edited by Geronimo John
80 PSI added from prev. quote
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TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

visited-united-states-map.png

Posted

Soo.. I have had great success!  Between the vinegar and low pressure air in the line (about 25#)  I was able to dislodge whatever was causing my blockage!  Just so everyone knows, I'm by no means a first timer with RVs.  I've had various trailers over the last 15 years and I'm not new to tools, compressors, trailers and trucks!  (owned an excavating company with my ex)  I have even done brakes and bearings on the ILOVHER.  I don't however know much about electrical and plumbing, but I know enough to come here for expert help whenever something is outside of my field of knowledge!  I thank you JD1923 for being up at midnight helping me out.  I am very grateful and now have a handy tool for winterization or if this happens again.

I don't normally filter water from my house as I know my water source runs through a softener but anywhere else, I use one religiously.  I do use a water specific hose that is stored and secured end to end so no real chance of bugs/debris.  

I'm of the idea  that my hot water tank may be backward siphoning or creating a vacuum and dragging junk into the cold line when draining the fresh water tank.  I've read this on a few other RV forums so from now on, I'll just bypass before draining since I'm already under the bed moving the valve!

I  annually change my anode because I know what it looks like when I remove it!  To each his own but it is cheap insurance and not hard to do.  I usually have some degree of anode degradation and the typical sludge that I flush and brush out.  Water quality differs at every campground.  I use magnesium over an aluminum HW anode.

Again, I'm super thankful to my Ollie fam for supporting me and getting me back into the woods!

Thanks again everyone!

 

 

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2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted
16 minutes ago, csevel said:

Soo.. I have had great success!  Between the vinegar and low pressure air in the line (about 25#)  I was able to dislodge whatever was causing my blockage!  Just so everyone knows, I'm by no means a first timer with RVs.  I've had various trailers over the last 15 years and I'm not new to tools, compressors, trailers and trucks!  (owned an excavating company with my ex)  I have even done brakes and bearings on the ILOVHER.  I don't however know much about electrical and plumbing, but I know enough to come here for expert help whenever something is outside of my field of knowledge!  I thank you JD1923 for being up at midnight helping me out.  I am very grateful and now have a handy tool for winterization or if this happens again.

I don't normally filter water from my house as I know my water source runs through a softener but anywhere else, I use one religiously.  I do use a water specific hose that is stored and secured end to end so no real chance of bugs/debris.  

I'm of the idea  that my hot water tank may be backward siphoning or creating a vacuum and dragging junk into the cold line when draining the fresh water tank.  I've read this on a few other RV forums so from now on, I'll just bypass before draining since I'm already under the bed moving the valve!

I  annually change my anode because I know what it looks like when I remove it!  To each his own but it is cheap insurance and not hard to do.  I usually have some degree of anode degradation and the typical sludge that I flush and brush out.  Water quality differs at every campground.  I use magnesium over an aluminum HW anode.

Again, I'm super thankful to my Ollie fam for supporting me and getting me back into the woods!

Thanks again everyone!

 

 

Great work and you knocked it out! Now enjoy your trip! 👍🏻👍🏻

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ALAZARCOCTDEGAIDILIAKSKYMEMDMAMOMTNENHNM

2020 OLEII - Hull #634 aka-  “XPLOR”

TV 2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat Ultimate Tremor 

Retro upgrades - Truma Aventa 13.5 AC, Alcan 5 leaf pack, Alcan HD shackles & HD wet bolts, 5200lb never lube axles.

XPEL 10 mil PPF front both front corners, 30 lb LP tanks, Sea Biscuit Front Cargo Storage box.

North Carolina 🇺🇸

 

Posted
1 hour ago, csevel said:

Soo.. I have had great success!  Between the vinegar and low pressure air in the line (about 25#)  I was able to dislodge whatever was causing my blockage!  Just so everyone knows, I'm by no means a first timer with RVs.  I've had various trailers over the last 15 years and I'm not new to tools, compressors, trailers and trucks!  (owned an excavating company with my ex)  I have even done brakes and bearings on the ILOVHER.  I don't however know much about electrical and plumbing, but I know enough to come here for expert help whenever something is outside of my field of knowledge!  I thank you JD1923 for being up at midnight helping me out.  I am very grateful and now have a handy tool for winterization or if this happens again.

I don't normally filter water from my house as I know my water source runs through a softener but anywhere else, I use one religiously.  I do use a water specific hose that is stored and secured end to end so no real chance of bugs/debris.  

I'm of the idea  that my hot water tank may be backward siphoning or creating a vacuum and dragging junk into the cold line when draining the fresh water tank.  I've read this on a few other RV forums so from now on, I'll just bypass before draining since I'm already under the bed moving the valve!

I  annually change my anode because I know what it looks like when I remove it!  To each his own but it is cheap insurance and not hard to do.  I usually have some degree of anode degradation and the typical sludge that I flush and brush out.  Water quality differs at every campground.  I use magnesium over an aluminum HW anode.

Again, I'm super thankful to my Ollie fam for supporting me and getting me back into the woods!

Thanks again everyone!

 

 

Hi Claudia,

So glad you solved the problem.  Wendy and I met you at the rally in 2022 and you showed us the work you were doing on the window vents.  I'm wondering if you patented that work and are producing it.  I saw the cover in your Oliver picture.

Best of luck on your travels,

Wendy & John

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Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

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Posted

@csevel You’re welcome Claudia! I’m just happy I came up with the idea, was able to help, and being up after midnight is the usual case for me.

The point was getting you on the road today. Personally, I’m not much for suggested maintenance procedures. I work mine my way and certainly have used my “thinga-ma-giggy” in several RVs always at 40+ PSI. Hate the pink stuff, always blow air. BTW, you can always run air pressure up to the rating of your water pump PSI. My upgraded water pump is variable speed at 65  PSI, 10 over OEM. Many would worry, but I prefer its performance and it has served us well.

Best wishes! Have a great trip, post pics! 🤣

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
3 hours ago, csevel said:

Just so everyone knows, I'm by no means a first timer with RVs.

Understatement of the thread. I've seen what Claudia has done on her Oliver, and among other cool ideas, I envy the molded window vents. And I hear she's known in the Casita world for around 100 modifications to her trailer over the ten years she had it. I've got some catching up to do!

Will we see you at the fall Casitas of Ohio rally at Cowan Lake State Park, Claudia? Matt and Sue will be attending again, and I'm trying to get two other Olivers to join us. @Golfnut and @Shawna and Scott

  • Like 5

-----
Steve - Northern Ohio, USA
Wandering around on occasion, always lost.
2021 Toyota Land Cruiser - 2023 Oliver Elite II Twin Hull #1360 “Curiosity”
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Camped in Curiosity = Green —— Visited with Curiosity = Gray

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Posted

Claudia:

For sure not a first timer!  Good work on the water issue.

Thanks for telling us about the HWT issue.  A good tip for sure.

Have a great trip.

GJ

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

visited-united-states-map.png

Posted
4 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Do you install your water filter at the trailer and never at the faucet? 

Guess I'm doing something wrong here....usually I want to put the filter first but would like to know if I need to do it differently.

Oliver II #996 "Bessie", 2019 Silverado LTZ 5.3, Veterans

https://wenandjohnsadventure.com/

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMAMIMNMS

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Posted

Most of us know by now, nothing Claudia won't tackle, and certainly not afraid of getting her hands dirty.

Great job, @csevel

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

Posted

My goodness, you guys are making me blush...   I'm just someone who doesn't mind challenges that involve my interests, whether physical or mental.   I research and learn.  Doubt for me is always removed by action.    

btw, my Casita was named OCD for "Obsessive Casita Disorder"  ..Ha   

Thanks again everyone!

 Regards,

Claudia

 

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2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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