Refrigerator not cooling

[Nan]

Please help me one more time. I believe the cooling fan for the refrigerator is not working. Can someone please tell me where it is located and maybe a part number to order it?

Thanks again,

Nan Wallace 2017 Hull 267

[Nan]

Just looked at it again and the freezer is working just fine, but the refrigerator is not cooling at all.  

Thanks,

Nan Hull 267

[Patriot]

I would give Oliver Service a call and provide details on your frig. They can surely provide you with the info for a part # or even diagnosis your issue.

It might help you cut to the chase. 

[Nan]

Thanks, I just put in a call for the Oliver service dept.   

[Steph and Dud B]

The fan is located in the external fridge compartment accessed from the outside of the trailer. It's thermostat driven and usually only comes on when it's quite hot outside (80s-90s).

How long have you waited? If the freezer is cold, that's a good sign. It takes a LONG time for the fridge to catch up, like overnight on a cool night. Even worse if you keep opening the door or put warm stuff inside. Many of us start the fridge the day before and wait until the next day to put pre-cooled items in it.

Gas/electric RV fridges are notoriously temperamental.

[jd1923]

@Nan This will not help you immediately, but you will want to make this upgrade. See my installation, bottom of page one here: Refrigerator Cooling Fan - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com)

 

Edited September 3 by jd1923

[Nan]

Thanks, I have waited since last night for the refrigerator to cool and until about 2:00 this afternoon..I then switched it over to DC and again the freezer is getting cold and maybe the fridge is a little cooler (however I put 6 frozen bottles of water in fridge..so that may be why it is cooler). I am leaving for Apex, NC in the morning and refuse to cancel because of the problem.  The temp in Savannah, Ga. is about 100 degrees (with the heat index) just about everyday and the camper is parked at the end of the drive way in the sun.  Thanks.   And, I am going to ask Grandson to change out the fan and replace it with two when I get back.

[Steph and Dud B]

One other thing: the fridge needs to be level to work properly. But, it does sound like you may have a problem with it. For this trip, you could just use it like an icebox. Put a bag of ice in it and go with that until you get it sorted out. 

Good luck and enjoy your trip. 

[SeaDawg]

Nan, if freezer is frozen, fridge is probably actually working fine. In Florida,  summer, I'd stick some frozen water gallons in the fridge compartment when we had a 3 way. At close to 100 degrees, your empty 3way could take well  over 24 hours to come to temp, if it ever does. Some "cold sink" could help, ie frozen water gallons. 

You might try opening the grate at the top (outside)  to increase airflow. It's tough to exhaust heat to high ambient heat. If you're leaving tomorrow,  it's a waste. Load it and go, cold non perishables. Traveling down the road will increase airflow, as well. Get groceries in Apex.

[Nan]

OK, I just got back from North Carolina camping where the refrigerator worked just fine because it was plugged into 30 amp. So, the story is that it does not work on Gas..I hear a clicking noise, but that is it...what should I look for?  Thanks.

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Nan said:

So, the story is that it does not work on Gas..I hear a clicking noise, but that is it...what should I look for?

I have ONLY heard the "clicking noise" when the LP valve is turned OFF.

[Nan]

I had both gas valves open (one at a time). Maybe I have a problem with the regulator or the gas lines themselves. Now that I am back, I will pull the big cover and try to check it out.  Thank you so much for responding to my question.

[mossemi]

49 minutes ago, Nan said:

I had both gas valves open (one at a time). Maybe I have a problem with the regulator or the gas lines themselves

If the gas stove top or the hot water heater work, then the regulator should be fine.

Mossey

[Ronbrink]

22 minutes ago, Nan said:

I had both gas valves open (one at a time). Maybe I have a problem with the regulator or the gas lines themselves. Now that I am back, I will pull the big cover and try to check it out.  Thank you so much for responding to my question.

The OPD safety valve built into the selected propane tank may have inadvertently been tripped, thus flow can be fully or partially restricted and prevent ignition at the refrigerator. This can be caused by opening the tank valve too fast, best to slowly open for the first 1/4 turn then proceed to fully open, or a line was open and the OPD sensed a leak and shutdown. You may first try switching the regulator to the other tank to see if adequate pressure is then available to ignite at the refrigerator. Did you by chance check pressure at the cooktop to see if it would ignite? You might try before switching the regulator, that could be telling. Now, if you end up switching the regulator to the other tank and still have issue, that tank’s OPD may have tripped, as well. If the problem persists, you can next try resetting the OPDs by first turning the tank valves completely off, then remove the hose pigtail tank connectors from each; subsequently reconnect the pigtails after checking that no lines are open. Now open each respective tank valve as suggested above and see if the fix is in (refrigerator ignites). Good luck!

[jd1923]

5 hours ago, mossemi said:

If the gas stove top or the hot water heater work, then the regulator should be fine. Mossey

Yes, every time I open the LP valve after parking at our campsite, Chris is inside, and our first step is to light a gas burner to prime the main line. We change fridge to LP and start the HWH afterwards and the furnace should be ready to fire up overnight.

[SeaDawg]

If you are not getting gas, most fridges will try three time with the "clicking noise, " and then throw an error code on the display to indicate "no fuel."

Sometimes, with a 3 way, you'll hear the clicking noise, but not the little " whoosh"  when it lights off. 

Are you showing any error codes on the fridge display, Nan, when you try to change to gas?

[Nan]

Just saw your post, sherry.  No error codes. I do not think I have any place for error codes on my fridge. The HW tank worked great while camping.  I did notice when I turned on the tank the gauge showed red and green at the same time..this happened on both tanks. I will try the stove and see if it lights.  Thanks.

 

[SeaDawg]

Nan, which water heater do you have? If your water heater is a standard six gallon, it could be set to electric, not gas, and work if you have hookups, but no propane.

Try the stove and see if it will light. I always did this first, before trying to run the fridge on gas, when we had a 3way. The stove top uses more gas, helps to clean out any "air bubbles," in my opinion. 

Every 3way I ever had in the last few decades could throw error codes on the main panel. Number and letter, or just numbers.

Which fridge do you have?

Edited September 15 by SeaDawg
Typo

[Nan]

Sherry, the water heater works fine..it is the refrigerator that was not working on gas, but working on 30 amp.  I am going to try turning on the stove the next time I am over at the camper and then see if the refrigerator will fire off.