the dog house get's a new refrigerator

[Jason Foster]

17 minutes ago, mountainoliver said:

There was an earlier question about removing the old fridge. I had quite a bit of trouble with the original fridge (as many on the forums can testify to) so was extremely happy to get rid of it but still was very careful about it’s removal. 🤪

Perhaps a more precision extraction device can’t be found. I would likely use a Sawzall just to cut down on the smoke. 

[mountainoliver]

19 minutes ago, Jason Foster said:

Perhaps a more precision extraction device can’t be found. I would likely use a Sawzall just to cut down on the smoke. 

Nothing like good ol’ rich two cycle smoke. It keeps the bugs away. Maybe you were referring to something like this?

Edited May 20 by mountainoliver

[Ronbrink]

1 hour ago, Jason Foster said:

So I would prefer to have just one fridge freezer that will hold everything instead of two, one in camper and one in truck.

We spend a lot of time away from our campsite. I like having cold foods and drinks (think beer), and frozen treats in the Dometic dual zone when venturing out for the day. So we’re out-and-about and the question comes up “whats for supper”? “Oh, let me take a couple of ribeyes out of the freezer, should be thawed by the time we get back to camp”! ‘Nuff said.

[jd1923]

15 hours ago, routlaw said:

So far at least for us we have not encountered issues with the Dometic fridge and while we don't camp normally in uber hot weather like you folks do in the Deep South and Southwest in the summer still we have been in temps well into the 80's, 90's...

Us too, last trip in the high 9K elevation of the AZ White mountains we turned the fridge down from the 4 setting (of 5) down to 3 because the fridge got down to 29F. Ours also runs stronger on LP than on AC/DC which is a plus for use boondockers. We do not travel in summer, unless like @Mike and Carol we are leaving to head north or high altitude. Last on the way to St. George UT late April, we ran into high 90s once we dropped altitude and and into Nevada. IT was the only time the Dometic Fridge got warm, over 40F and it was before I added the Beech Lane twin fan that really pulls a lot of heat out of the rear vent cabinet required for an absorption fridge.

Hopefully none of have to take Ken's lead @mountainoliver, though I would start with a 5 LB hammer! To date all systems, buttons, freezer hinges and everything else is working, knock on wood...

 

[Jason Foster]

2 hours ago, mountainoliver said:

Nothing like good ol’ rich two cycle smoke. It keeps the bugs away. Maybe you were referring to something like this?

I like it. Only thing better would be a Tim Taylor modified Binford model. 

[Jason Foster]

22 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

We spend a lot of time away from our campsite. I like having cold foods and drinks (think beer), and frozen treats in the Dometic dual zone when venturing out for the day. So we’re out-and-about and the question comes up “whats for supper”? “Oh, let me take a couple of ribeyes out of the freezer, should be thawed by the time we get back to camp”! ‘Nuff said.

I could definitely go for that.  Mine usually goes over ice. 

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, Jason Foster said:

I kinda like the Hobbit hole I have now. 

Ditto.  If a 25 footer were to magically appear, I would try to be the first in line to admire it.  But not likely to trade in my Ollie for one.  I suspect that the majority of existing owners feel the same.

[jd1923]

26 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

We spend a lot of time away from our campsite. I like having cold foods and drinks (think beer), and frozen treats in the Dometic dual zone when venturing out for the day. So we’re out-and-about and the question comes up “whats for supper”? “Oh, let me take a couple of ribeyes out of the freezer, should be thawed by the time we get back to camp”! ‘Nuff said.

Ron sir, you are the king of mods, having something for everything. Reason why your HD van was the right TV upgrade for you. When are you going to add solar & charger and a small cooler to those e-bikes? Think e-bikes that never run out of juice and a cold beer while coasting on your e-bike. You're also going to need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/RAM-MOUNTS-RAM-B-132-400U-Tough-Claw-Self-Leveling/dp/B00PAQKQH6/

[Geronimo John]

16 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I added the Beech Lane twin fan that really pulls a lot of heat out of the rear vent cabinet required for an absorption fridge.

Spot on.  Your comment caused two of my few remaining brain cells to wake up.  The twin 5" fans of the Beech Lane moves a lot of air.  Hence why it is so much more effective than the 3" Titan's some of us once used.  This air movement can act to assist in purging the cabinet of potential CO.  

[Geronimo John]

27 minutes ago, Jason Foster said:

Mine usually goes over ice. 

Yep me too!  But with currently just one ice tray in the frig, and down the road with likely a Nova Kool with it's 20% smaller freezer (Thanks JD!), it looks like I will need to add one of these to my Ollie inventory this year!  But wait a minute... that likely will cause me to add TY J's 300 Watt Bouge Cigs Fla Solar Panels on the roof next year!  

Thanks guys you just made my 2025 and 2026 Ollie Mod lists!

GJ

[jd1923]

23 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

Ditto.  If a 25 footer were to magically appear, I would try to be the first in line to admire it.  But not likely to trade in my Ollie for one.  I suspect that the majority of existing owners feel the same.

Yeah, after my $12K+ in upgrades, some of them would be transferable to a new hull, but everything is in great shape now, comfortable for an overnight stay anywhere. Still need to replace the A/C, but not much else.

Likely we could not afford it, and from my reading here many new hulls have more issues than we do. The only way I would buy a need hull first with longer beds, or not interested at all. I would ask for NOTHING roof mounted except for cabling to solar and cutouts for fans and A/C. The bath fan should have a 12" flat area shaped into the fiberglass. No awning(s) and nothing else screwed into to roof.

Inside, no batteries, no inverter, yes taller fridge with 2x freezer space, an opening for my installation of an Emeril Air Fryer. We're OK with the wetbath. No bedding of cushions added as we have better bedding companies here and a great upholsterer.

2 5/16" ball, 5200 LB axles Alcan springs with disc brakes. No bike rack but larger basket in front and balance the rig for 12%+ tongue weight!

Sell me a great hull and not much else!

[Geronimo John]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

balance the rig for 12%+ tongue weight!

Follows is a whimsical discussion "envisionating" what such a trailer would be.  I'll crawl out on the limb and call it an OE3 for grins. 

First I agree 99.9% of your suggestions on the what we would like to see in an OE3.   Assuming 25' and 8000 pounds of the OE3 we can consider the tongue weight/balance.  

I assume that your suggested OE3 12%+ tongue weight is to accommodate heavier than average OE2 rear bumper loads.  Over my past eight seasons with our OE2, I have noted a significant number of owners hauling more stuff on their rear bumper.  So far, I don't recall any such owners experience any increased sway of their rigs.  This speaks highly of the OTT efforts to make a non-sway trailer that we all enjoy. 

It is logical that a family wanting a larger Oliver, would also want to haul more storage inside as well as on the front and rear of the OE3.  Additionally that pound for pound, that rear loads have far more impact on sway than front loading.  Granted my Beast (F-150) would likely protest that assumption!

For OE2's, If we are running with no or lighter rear bumper loads, then the current OE2 sway design is near perfect for most of us.  As well, it is likewise for those running with greater rear loading.  A statement of design safety margins OTT used. 

I am postulating that most of us are likely running in the mid 500's on tongue weight as a result and our loaded trailers are around 6,000 pounds.  That calculates to about 9% tongue weight.

For an OE3:  I am thinking that the additional length and mass of the box section would move the CG rearward of the current OE2 CG.  The further from the hitch the CG.  the less sway becomes a concern.  So I am thinking that if they shoot for the same % tongue weight for a 8000 pound OE3 (720# TW), they should be good to replicate the great sway performance of the OE2 design. 

What do you think?

GJ

[jd1923]

34 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

What do you think?

I believe our just under 9% tongue/weight ratio, under the industry standard is cause of porpoising felt when crossing bridge seams, etc. Our TV, borderline a 2500 by today’ standards requires us to use the Andersen WDH which eliminates the up-down effect of the light tongue weight. If the tongue weight was heavier, our truck has the available GVW and the Timbrens I added would engage, but they do not cause of this light bouncy trailer I’m pulling.

[Jason Foster]

I think an addition of a sliding tandem axle would offer each of us the ability to tailer the tongue weight the way we want. 

[Geronimo John]

 

21 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I believe our just under 9% tongue/weight ratio, under the industry standard is cause of porposing felt when crossing bridge seams, etc. Our TV, borderline a 2500 by today’ standards requires us to use the Andersen WDH which eliminates the up-down effect of the light tongue weight. If the tongue weight was heavier, our truck has the available GVW and the Timbrens I added would engage, but they do not cause of this light bouncy trailer I’m pulling.

Interesting problem!  I had the same with my Ollie and 2019 F-150 crew cab.  This 7,000# class vehicle has only a 1300# payload.  Scales showed with Anderson in play, my front and rear TV axle weights were almost 50/50%. But I was experiencing porposing and bump stop impacts on the TV.   I consulted the F-150 Forum and as advised installed a pair of rear Bilstein 5100 shocks  and air bags.  Together they helped a lot.  The shocks for dampening, the Air bags to get back the two inches of spring range (squat) that my payload (<350 #) and tongue weight (540 #) caused.  They together helped a lot.

In your case a 2500 GMC would likely not have a squat or payload issue. 

On the other hand, the OE2's are not light and with four serviceable shocks and the EZ flex they don't bounce much.  With the extra long tongue, the CG is way back there compared to other trailers.  Again reducing the forces at the tongue when driving in porposing conditions.  So this is what makes this interesting.  

With your massive Cummings engine in a 2500 GMC, payload or any other capacity is not likely an issue.  But as you indicated, a "relatively" light tongue weight (For your truck) with additional unloading by the Anderson with possibly tired shocks on the rear could be the cause.

With your one to n GMC, I would find a suitable road that encourages porposing and slack the Anderson chains.  Next take a hard look at your shocks.  Finally tighten up those timberlines a bit. 

Just keep in mind the difference between payload ability and dampening of varying loads.  The 2500 payload and timberlines do not dampen much, they increase paylow.  But your rear shocks do.   

Keep us posted!

GJ

[jd1923]

@Geronimo John no bounce, but light tongue weight can cause porpoising (tongue up and down movement). None with the Andersen WDH, only without. Many people don’t notice or care and with newer 2500s it’s not an issue.

New shocks on truck and trailer. Likely my rear leafs springs a weak, worn after 25 years. I could add a leaf and new u-bolts, but $90 to Anderson for new 2 5/16” ball was my choice for now. In the future, I hope to beef up the rear on my TV and stop using the Andersen. Thx

[Jason Foster]

I have not noticed any issues with our 2014 Ram 2500 with the Cummins. In fact, other than a bit of power lag, I don’t even notice it back there. This might actually change soon, since I purchased a new Carli suspension upgrade for the truck. Carli offers two different levels of rear coils for my truck, a soft one and a more rigid one, similar to the factory shock, but they have a progressive spring rate.  It will be interesting to see if it changes the dynamic of towing for better or worse. 

[jd1923]

9 hours ago, Jason Foster said:

I have not noticed any issues with our 2014 Ram 2500 with the Cummins.

It’s just my rear leafs must be worn, hence a 2” drop when I hitch tongue weight <580 lbs.

Our current Ram is the 2nd Gen Cummins GVWR 8800 lbs. For 18 years I drove an ‘03 (3rd Gen) 4WD SB Quad Cab GVWR 9000 lbs. That truck had such greater towing capacity. When we moved to AZ from VA, I pulled a 26 ft race car trailer, full of  family belongings. Combined weight was 21,500 lbs and it only slowed down on I-17 in AZ pulling a steep incline out of the Verde Valley, while semis were moving 35 MPH.

Your 2014 is likely 5th Gen (?) and certainly has an improved suspension over the current state of mine. Be careful with suspension changes but I’ve read Carli is good equipment.

Edited May 23 by jd1923

[Jason Foster]

18 hours ago, jd1923 said:

It’s just my rear leafs must be worn, hence a 2” drop when I hitch tongue weight <580 lbs.

Our current Ram is the 2nd Gen Cummins GVWR 8800 lbs. For 18 years I drove an ‘03 (3rd Gen) 4WD SB Quad Cab GVWR 9000 lbs. That truck had such greater towing capacity. When we moved to AZ from VA, I pulled a 26 ft race car trailer, full of  family belongings. Combined weight was 21,500 lbs and it only slowed down on I-17 in AZ pulling a steep incline out of the Verde Valley, while semis were moving 35 MPH.

Your 2014 is likely 5th Gen (?) and certainly has an improved suspension over the current state of mine. Be careful with suspension changes but I’ve read Carli is good equipment.

My 14 is a 4th gen. The 6.7 is cast iron with the flat tap cam instead of roller lifters. The only drawback is the 68rfe.  We opted for a Tradesman crew cab which offered the most tow capacity with adequate comfort. This model has front and rear coils springs allowing for a 10,000 gvwr and 17,000 lbs pulling capacity.
 

I had to upgrade the suspension due to a broken coil spring and Carli, albeit expensive, was the best option.  Carli is a super upgrade which combines comfort with strength when optioned with the R2 rear coils springs allowing option that maintains the factory rake and gvwr. I bought the Backcountry version since it seemed to offer the best value for included options and I will install it myself as i do all my upgrades.