solar hookup?

[grweber1]

OK, I bought hull #994 (2022) 2 years ago, it has no solar, but I put in a xantrex inverter 2000 watt. (thanks JD). I have a 300ah lithium 12v lifepo4 battery. Changed over the charge wizard to accept lithium. Here is the question, Can I hook up a solar panel with a charge controller to the battery with out running the cables into the cabin. I do not want to put holes in the top. I would like to just mount the charge controller in the battery box. Is this doable?

[Steph and Dud B]

If you don't want to drill holes in the hull, why not use a portable solar panel on the ground with it's own charge controller and just run the cables through the open battery compartment door?

[grweber1]

Yes that is an option, I was thinking of running the cables in between the hull at the max fan. saw a video a while back and running them down to the insides of the battery box, thru to the battery.

[rideandfly]

We don't have factory installed solar charging system. Mounted a waterproof suitcase charge controller and waterproof bluetooth Victron shunt in the battery box with one lithium battery. Also use up to two suitcase 100W panels.

In the process of upgrading this system's master switch, DC fuse, and adding two lithium batteries over the next couple of weeks. Also have a different MPPT charge controller, might install it under the port bed, just a thought for now.

Here's the original system:

Here's the solar port installation that I already upgraded to 20A since the installation:

 

Edited Tuesday at 06:15 PM by rideandfly

[grweber1]

This might be another option Bill, Thanks, looks like a clean setup.

[Geronimo John]

I prefer not drilling large holes in the side or the top if they can be avoided.

So for our solar suit case, I plug it into one of these mounted on the door of the battery area.  It only requires a small hole, easy to mount, and could easily be repaired (or replaced) should for some reason I no longer have my solar suit case setup.  And it is quite inexpensive vs. the larger plug holes.  Or you could mount it thru one of the vent holes.  However it is limited to 30 amps for the 10 AWG one.  It typically used for 200 watts of solar panels.

GJ

Edited Wednesday at 03:33 AM by Geronimo John
Added 10 AWG for the larger one of these plugs

[jd1923]

8 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

If you don't want to drill holes in the hull, why not use a portable solar panel on the ground with it's own charge controller and just run the cables through the open battery compartment door?

This is a good start but leaving the battery door open/unlocked is not a real good idea. We often have our solar suitcase out when we're gone for the day. Lose the suitcase would be one thing, but LiFePO4 batteries is another!

Gary @grweber1, good to hear from you and knowing the old Xantrex is serving you well!

Bill @rideandfly, love your compact installation! For something small it's done right and the Renogy waterproof SCs are pretty cool! 

My take, I'd go with the battery bay install that @Steph and Dud B mentioned and some kind of terminal like @Geronimo John suggested. You could drill a 1/4" hole in the door fiberglass. If you do, use VHB tape vs. drilling the 4 little mounting holes.

Check my picture. You could mount the terminal through a vent hole already drilled. I placed a cable gland on the bottom rear vent to get the idea across. Either way, have enough wire length so to open and close the door easily.

I'm also not much for built-in Solar Controllers. Much greater selection of panels in higher wattage and you need heavier gauge wire to connect the panels when the SC is built-in. The SC should be as close to batteries as possible and you'll want 30+ ft of cable to the panels, so you can put the solar suitcase on any side of the Oliver. 12 AWG wire is OK for up to a 400W suitcase when the SC is at the batteries.

I love this company for battery terminals, etc. They also custom make cables any length with ANY kinds of ends. I've also found products here that are not carried anywhere else. A little costly for custom cables, but great for those who do not have the cable and crimp tools: https://powerwerx.com/custom-dc-power-cables

Also in the picture, checkout the rubber disc in the adjacent vent hole. A lot of dirt gets in the bay during travel, not anymore. These vents were only needed for LA batteries. I'll seal the 8 vent holes with rubber discs with clear silicone on top to eliminate dirt or moisture in the bay! Search on Amazon for "rubber discs. These are 1" dia and " 3mm thick. 😎 

[Ronbrink]

22 hours ago, grweber1 said:

I bought hull #994 (2022) 2 years ago,

This is more for general information than anything else: I opted for no solar in my 2020 OLEll, but told it was prewired if ever an installation was wanted. I located a bundle of wiring inside the street side hatch on the wheel well next the battery box. I’m not sure of the year model that Oliver discontinued such prewiring. There’s also aluminum mounting plates formed in the roof’s outer shell to accommodate panel installation.

Edited Wednesday at 04:42 PM by Ronbrink

[Patriot]

18 hours ago, rideandfly said:

We don't have factory installed solar charging system. Mounted a waterproof suitcase charge controller and waterproof bluetooth Victron shunt in the battery box with one lithium battery. Also use up to two suitcase 100W panels.

In the process of upgrading this system's master switch, DC fuse, and adding two lithium batteries over the next couple of weeks. Also have a different MPPT charge controller, might install it under the port bed, just a thought for now.

Here's the original system:

Here's the solar port installation that I already upgraded to 20A since the installation:

 

 

 

Very nice install Bill! Sano!! 😊

[Patriot]

10 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

I prefer not drilling large holes in the side or the top if they can be avoided.

So for our solar suit case, I plug it into one of these mounted on the door of the battery area.  It only requires a small hole, easy to mount, and could easily be repaired (or replaced) should for some reason I no longer have my solar suit case setup.  And it is quite inexpensive vs. the larger plug holes.  Or you could mount it thru one of the vent holes.  However it is limited to 30 amps for the 10 AWG one.  It typically used for 200 watts of solar panels.

GJ

GJ,

I use the OEM installed Zamp plug for our 90W Zamp Solar suitcase. It bumps up our solar to 420W. With the DC-DC charger it may not get much use. The Zamp suitcase is a very nice product, but heavy as a boat anchor. My guess is to keep it from blowing over in the wind.

 

[tallmandan]

9 hours ago, jd1923 said:

19 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

If you don't want to drill holes in the hull, why not use a portable solar panel on the ground with it's own charge controller and just run the cables through the open battery compartment door?

This is a good start but leaving the battery door open/unlocked is not a real good idea.

The mods and installs shared on the forum are allways impressive and helpful!   Just an FYI -  I have the Renogy 200w Solar Suitcase with attached solar controller (link below).  I am able to simply use the alligator clips on the battery terminals and route the cable to the lower right corner of the battery compartment.  As I close the door, I shift the cable just a bit so it's below the weather seal and next to the hinge - the door will just close without pinching. 

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-200-Watt-Monocrystalline-Controller/dp/B07RFQVB9M?th=1

 

[topgun2]

14 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Also in the picture, checkout the rubber disc in the adjacent vent hole. A lot of dirt gets in the bay during travel, not anymore. These vents were only needed for LA batteries. I'll seal the 8 vent holes with rubber discs with clear silicone on top to eliminate dirt or moisture in the bay! Search on Amazon for "rubber discs. These are 1" dia and " 3mm thick.

Another way or as an addition - you could always add insulation in the form of "foam board" to that door.  

Bill

 

Edited Wednesday at 06:33 PM by topgun2

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Either another way or as an addition - you could always add insulation in the form of "foam board" to that door.  Bill

Thanks Bill! Like your idea as an "addition." The 1" rubber discs with a sealant will keep everything inside clean and I should add some insulation for insulation purposes.

[Patriot]

3 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Either another way or as an addition - you could always add insulation in the form of "foam board" to that door.  

Bill

 

Bill, 

Do you remove your Lithium Batteries from “Twist” during winter storage? Or do they have built in heating elements or a heating pad? It’s a beautiful day here and I was just out at the Ollie Hangar. I turned off  our 30 amp shore power and am now exercising our new Epoch’s by running our dehumidifier for a few days. I am finding the instant read out of the Victron GX 70 is a nice option and a great back up if a Bluetooth connection is unavailable. The GX 70 fit perfectly in the space of the old Zamp solar module, no drill and no cutting. 76d here tomorrow…crazy weather for Christmas Day. 🤔

 

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 05:40 PM by Patriot

[topgun2]

56 minutes ago, Patriot said:

Do you remove your Lithium Batteries from “Twist” during winter storage? Or do they have built in heating elements or a heating pad?

Nope & Nope.  However, I do turn off the solar panels and have no other electricity going into the camper.  I check the state of charge on the batteries around mid February each year and they have always been good.  Then, in April, I take my 25 watt solar panel and plug it into the batteries so that they slowly charge back up to 100% over the next month or so.

Of course, if I had that sweet setup that you have I'd probably do things a bit differently, but, this seems to work well so far.

Bill

Note:  I used a spoon (not very elegant) to carve out room for the existing rubber gasket seal on the door - I didn't want to remove that gasket (because it seemed to seal the battery compartment fairly well) nor did I want to simply cut the foam board to fit inside the gasket.

Edited Wednesday at 06:37 PM by topgun2
added detail