Furrion Chill Cube – Product Review and Installation

[jd1923]

From the YouTube channel Mortons on the Move, by Tom & Caitlin Morton who previously tested the Greenland Turbro have more recently tested the Furrion Chill Cube. They now have the Turbro unit cooling the living area of their RV and the Furrion Chill Cube cooling their bedroom!

Honestly, I wish I had seen this video prior to my purchase of what turned out to be a defective Turbro product. I believe I would have changed my purchase decision. Turbro refunded my money, so this model could be in our future, TBD Spring of 2026.

This is my take after watching this review. I LOVE Tom's knowledge and ability as a electrical engineer coupled with their family RV experience!

The PROs – so many benefits!
- Variable speed compressor and efficient dual brushless DC fan motors, though not truly an inverter compressor it achieves similar energy efficiencies
- The HUGE low-speed evaporator fan in the non-ducted unit is the game-changer, adding to cooling efficiency and allows for extremely quiet operation (see 14- and 24-minute marks on the video)
- It becomes even more efficient, producing higher EER, When cooling demand is lower
- Interior air handler is mounted flush to ceiling allowing for more headroom and clean interior appearance
- Small 29x29” rooftop footprint at 60% the weight of standard A/C units
- Unique oscillating vent for greater air movement which can also be set to one stationary position
- The follow-me remote puts the thermostat reading wherever you want it
- A simple remote key will turn off all control sounds and interior lights
- Low-energy, eco and gear modes to efficiently run the AC at 50% or 75% power levels for longer runtimes when running on inverter/batteries
- The evaporator condensate is channeled to the rear where a water wheel on the condenser fan brings water up to soak the condenser coils for more efficient cooling, which also minimizes condensate drip down the body of the trailer (in dry climates condensates should fully evaporate)
- Can run easily on 2KW generators or inverters, no soft-start required

The CONs – the disadvantages seem much smaller in comparison (to me)

- With its unconventional looks at 14.5” tall it is 3.25” taller than the Dometic P2 and close to 5” taller than low profile A/C models
- Only a simple A/C unit without heat pump capability
- IR remote works line-of-sight only in close proximity of unit
- No app for monitoring and control
- No thermostat interface on the non-ducted version

We’re OK without heat-pump, since in 3 RVs we either did not have one or use it. Prior owner had replace the reportedly “noisy” Suburban furnace in our Oliver with an Atwood model that now that I have deleted the bedside duct and added an intake filter, runs well and is quiet enough to my noise-sensitive ears. Here is the Mortons on the Move blog post and YouTube review:

https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/furrion-chill-cube-variable-speed-18k-review/

Edited Sunday at 05:02 PM by jd1923

[Snackchaser]

 Jd, have you looked into running wire for a DC unit?  I'm fairly sure I could get a couple #4's into the attic space, although I v'e yet to actually confirm it.  I've read comments that some people have been unable to fish wires down the wall.  However, Iv'e done it a good number of times.   The trick is to use a stiff fiberglass sectional rod made for this purpose (Ace or Amazon). They won't follow the curve and go off track like the flexible fish tapes. The gap on the corners is a little wider, one just has to make sure the rod tracks straight down, and add rod sections as you go.

It might be harder to get the wire from the attic to the unit.  Although it certainly wouldn't be hard to put a small hole through the attic ceiling/roof, then 3-d print a short/shallow wire channel/cover that could be caulked to the roof right up to the unit. But I'm curious to hear from someone like you who's had the unit out.  Is there's enough gap between the ceiling and the roof where a couple #4 wires could be fished from the attic to the unit?  

Then there's the bigger question. Has anybody has done the research to know if there is any significant advantages to a 12 volt unit over a 120 volts?  Happy new year's!  Geoff

 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Snackchaser said:

The trick is to use a stiff fiberglass sectional rod made for this purpose...

 Geoff, if anybody could do it... It would be you or me or perhaps another one of our highly capable OTT Forum compatriots! 😂

I've never looked seriously at 12VDC A/C products, thinking they are designed for the Van-Life sorts, but who knows...

I truly like this special Furrion model and I could spend money refunded to... 😎

Happy New Year to you and your family.
I would relish the day where we could camp, our families together! JD

[Geronimo John]

2 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

The trick is to use a stiff fiberglass sectional rod made for this purpose (Ace or Amazon).

Lots of broken fiberglass light weight fishing poles out there.  Cast off small end section is easy to find.  Just cut off all but the end "Eye" and go fishing in a different manner.  You generally only need 4+feet of it to fish the walls.  JD knows how to get from the refergerator to the upper cabinet. 

 

2 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

It might be harder to get the wire from the attic to the unit.  Although it certainly wouldn't be hard to put a small hole through the attic ceiling/roof, then 3-d print a short/shallow wire channel/cover that could be caulked to the roof right up to the unit. But I'm curious to hear from someone like you who's had the unit out.

This is how I got my Houghton thermistor from the rooftop back into the cabinet over the stove area.  If you figure out or know a source for a very white cover to run a 1/4" thermister over the roof let me know!  At this point I may just use some of the Gutter materail with the opening facing aft. 

GJ

[CRM]

Easiest way I found to fish the walls is by using a long length of ball chain and a magnet. Used this method recently to add a fan switch circuit to my ac unit. Pushed the chain with a small piece of wood from the AC opening until I heard fall over edge of the curve in the roof. Then used a magnet taped to the end of a short piece of romex to retrieve it from above the cabinet. Used this same method a while back to fish a coax between the hulls for a new TV antenna too. Kits like this are available on Amazon and the included flexible magnet would probably work better than a magnet on the end of romex does.

[jd1923]

We watched the Morton's video again (with Chris) and she said "buy one!" So I did.

I have not seen a review that does not report this is the most efficient and quietest RV A/C unit in the marketplace! I will install ours this weekend and hope to get a chance to test it some in Quartzsite! 😎

The standing height and no heat pump doesn't bother me at all. I think it has a cool shape and should look cute up on our Oliver!

After reading what @CRM had to do with his Turbro, the fact that it's not very quiet, and what Turbro Support put me through, my broken unit will be sold for parts or junked. Lost my patience with it, where normally I would be first to repair it to save $$$.

Here's another positive review and he's testing the Ducted unit. The Non-Ducted model is even more quiet and efficient. Can't wait!

Edited January 8 by jd1923

[CRM]

4 hours ago, jd1923 said:

We watched the Morton's video again (with Chris) and she said "buy one!" So I did.

I have not seen a review that does not report this is the most efficient and quietest RV A/C unit in the marketplace! I will install ours this weekend and hope to get a chance to test it some in Quartzsite! 😎

The standing height and no heat pump doesn't bother me at all. I think it has a cool shape and should look cute up on our Oliver!

After reading what @CRM had to do with his Turbro, the fact that it's not very quiet, and what Turbro Support put me through, my broken unit will be sold for parts or junked. Lost my patience with it, where normally I would be first to repair it to save $$$.

It would be nice if all the best features of the Chill Cube and Turbro could be combined into one unit! 

Love that the Cube has an actual variable speed blower motor instead of a 3 speed like the Turbro. I'm sure it's also quieter due to better internal ductwork located outside of the RV instead of in the inside cover like on the Turbro. Being able to lock in in 50% or 75% power is another biggie.  Don't know why they rate the Cube at 18k though when it only puts out 9k-9.5K Btu's. That's a big difference from the 12.5K Btu's that Morton's testing showed on the Turbro. Hope that doesn't become an issue in the desert... 

 

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, CRM said:

It would be nice if all the best features of the Chill Cube and Turbro could be combined into one unit! 

Love that the Cube has an actual variable speed blower motor instead of a 3 speed like the Turbro. I'm sure it's also quieter due to better internal ductwork located outside of the RV instead of in the inside cover like on the Turbro. Being able to lock in in 50% or 75% power is another biggie.  Don't know why they rate the Cube at 18k though when it only puts out 9k-9.5K Btu's. That's a big difference from the 12.5K Btu's that Morton's testing showed on the Turbro. Hope that doesn't become an issue in the desert... 

That would be a great combo, the best of both for sure! IMHO, either is better than an A/C unit that has the standard ON/OFF compressor. Why do these units take 3 minutes to kick in the compressor, BTW. 

The 9.5K Btu does not bother me and I've learned to ignore marketing hype, Marketing the second oldest profession! 🤣 I always thought that's all you need in the small cubic ft space of the Oliver, well insulated, with hard fiberglass walls keeping the cool inside. Regardless of Btu, it appears this unit pushes more cool air than most.

I'm going to love the low settings and power reduction Gear settings. We don't camp in Yuma, nor Tampa or Houston in the Summer heat! I'm hoping to rarely exist in campgrounds!

Yes, your rationale for quiet is true, but also it's about the huge internal fan operating at much lower speed. A fan turning faster will of course produce more noise. You can hear the difference in the Morton's video.

May the Dometic Penguin II rest in peace forever! 😎

[Tideline77]

Will you be making a thread on the installation of the chill cube for those of us that want to follow along ?

and once you get it on the roof we would like to know the final increase in height above the stock dometic unit !

 

[jd1923]

40 minutes ago, Tideline77 said:

Will you be making a thread on the installation of the chill cube for those of us that want to follow along? and once you get it on the roof we would like to know the final increase in height above the stock Dometic unit !

Yes, working this installation today! Wish temps would be a little better, high of only 45F today (furnace ON) but al least it's another sunny day in Arizona. I'm hoping the remaining snow will soon melt off the top, or we're brushing off snow first.

Also, I do plan on measuring total height so that I know what bridge heights we can travel through. Our hull is likely already 1/2 - 1" taller due to the Alcan Springs. I'll also measure height of the body at the wheels. With the Furrion being 3.25" taller and some additional spring height, we should be about 4" taller overall. 

Thanks, I'll add to this post with installation pics and measurements. 😎

[jd1923]

She's up top and installed, running ever so quietly...

I'll write more on the installation soon and total height measurement. It does appear a bit tall, though I took the picture from higher ground. I ran the furnace during the Bears game (love when the Packers get beat, it's so sweet)! Then Chris and I went out to check on the Oliver...

The cabin was at 74F and with the Chill Cube set to 60F it cooled quickly (but true testing can not be accomplished during the winter)! When it kicked in, it started drawing only 2A, OMG! We're always on inverted battery power, no shore line. it took a few minutes to ramp up. Highest reading was 18A. The Dometic Penguin II needed over 150A to make that freight train sound and would take 2-3 times as long to cool (how does that work)?

I didn't measure total usage this time, but at the high draw of 18A (which sounds crazy, but it would certainly draw more on a hot summer day) I could run this A/C for 50 hours! I'm thinking with 900 Ah LiFePO4 batteries we will be able to run this on at least 3-5 hot afternoons when boondocking, get a hook-up after a week out. Out west you rarely need to run A/C overnight. A/C in the afternoon, furnace by dawn, so yes if they ever sell an upgraded model with heat pump and Bluetooth it would kill the market.

Then it settled down at 10A, in AUTO mode the fan was running a low-medium speed (as recorded, run movie). The fan can run even slower/quieter! The huge evaporator fan in the Non-ducted version of the Chill Cube is the secret, and it's what sold me. When turned off the oscillating vent goes back to closed position, love how the air handler hangs <1" below the ceiling! I'm 6'2" and when the vent was full down, standing tall it was still 2-3" above my head. Love how it pushes a lot of air up and down the Oliver hallway but does not blow directly on the beds.

Living in the Southwest, and especially after living a few years in South Florida, Summer has become our least favorite season (more so for Chris). I have a feeling that Summers in the Oliver are going to be pretty decent running this A/C unit! 😎

Furrion Chill Cube Running.MOV

Edited Sunday at 04:08 PM by jd1923

[Mike and Carol]

47 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

She's up top and installed, running ever so quietly...

 

Furrion Chill Cube Running.MOV 990.54 kB · 2 downloads

 

That’s encouraging!  Will be interested in installation details.  My old Dometic is begging for replacement!  It’s nice to have more options these days that are efficient and quiet.

[Geronimo John]

On 1/11/2026 at 5:55 AM, jd1923 said:

so yes if they ever sell an upgraded model with heat pump and Bluetooth it would kill the market.

With an internal drain and remote thermistor and they would OWN the RV a/c world.

GJ

[CRM]

2 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

With an internal drain and remote thermistor and they would OWN the RV a/c world.

GJ

I *think* the thermistor is in the remote itself, just like how many mini-splits do it. And they don't need an internal drain since they use the condensate to help cool the condenser coil through evaporative cooling to increase efficiency. 

 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

With an internal drain and remote thermistor and they would OWN the RV a/c world. GJ

GJ, I'm sure you have not had time to study this relatively new model. Even though the video below is 6 months old. I just watched it for the first time two weeks ago...

Who knows re the thermistor... I'm not up on the ME as you are. Maybe they have designed and positioned it appropriately, who knows, TBD.  🤣

Re the drain... This model may not need one!

Watch the video which I have copied again here...
FF to just before 10:00 minutes...

 

Edited yesterday at 03:03 AM by jd1923

[CRM]

10 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Who knows re the thermistor... I'm not up on the ME as you are. Maybe they have designed and positioned it appropriately, who knows, TBD.  🤣

Just took a peak at the manual and it looks like it has one thermistor in the unit itself, and one inside the remote too. You can activate the one in the remote by using the "Follow Me" function. This is an awesome feature to have! 

[mossemi]

FYI, if anyone is curious about the cost of this new product.

Mossey

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, mossemi said:

FYI, if anyone is curious about the cost of this new product. Mossey

Thanks MosseyI In a way I made in impulsive buy, and maybe could have waited for better pricing. Though I noted list prices of about $1400 for just the main unit (ABD required) and thought the current Amazon prices of $987 ($1,006 today) and $138 ($143 today) for the ADB was good enough (saved $24 plus tax vs. buying today):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DM6YMJNY/?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F1464FSX/?th=1

[Geronimo John]

On 1/12/2026 at 5:01 PM, jd1923 said:

I'm not up on the ME as you are.

Ok, you asked for it!   🙂   As a ME, there is a lot to like about this unit.  And just a few things to wish for.  But the two I identified above are not one of them.

• In the video he mentioned the capability to hard wire a T-stat.  
• The water wheel disbursal of the condensate appears to minimize the amount of liquid going over the side.  That is close enough to strike out that wish item.

Now for my video take away notes:  (G = Good, NI = Not Ideal, PP = Potential Problem for some owners)

• PP   Some owners have height restrictions.  This unit "stands tall" at about 14", a good 5" taller than our OEM Dometic  Houghton.   A hard deal killer for some owners for sure.  Also it will have a greater challenge with wind drag at highway speeds and lower hanging limbs and bridges.  But if you follow an 18 wheeler box trailer, they will clear all that out of your way.
• G   Dual fans
• G  Squirrel cage supply air fan
• G  All copper coils and tubing
• G  Brushless motors
• G  Cap tube control system.  EXCELLENT. 
• G   Shroud not necessary to test run the unit.  Nice for those doing maintenance.
• NI  Access to condenser coil for cleaning will require disassembly of condenser coil housing.  Not so good for maintenance.  PP for those who need a/c where tree and other floating gunk is common.
• NI  Outstanding efficiency at lower setting’s simply due to oversizing the condenser coil and very efficient fan motors.  But there it is only putting out about 5,000 BTU's of cooling.  Good at high settings. 
• NI  Per the video graphic, the high setting of the unit requires 1337  watts of "real power" and another 294 watts of apparent power for a total generator load of 1631 watts.  This is still better than what non variable speed units can do and is low enough that most quality 2,000 watt generators can accommodate for this unit as it has a near zero surge on start-up or compressor cycling.   
• G   The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply.  In fact, they are OUTSTANDING
• PP  The unit on max setting only produces 9,000 BUT of a/c.  On a max sun, 100+ degree F Day where we often camp, that low output will take more time to cool down an OE2.  Would suggest starting the unit on max an hour before arriving at your camp site.  Your spousal unit will appreciate you're thinking ahead.  

If an owner does not have a problem with that 14" height and does not camp in extreme heat and sun locations, I think that this tested unit is an excellent choice.   But as exterior temp increases beyond what 9,000 BTU can handle it would be a challenge.  For many owners just starting the cool down before occupancy, it would mitigate the lower capacity.  With a larger compressor and minor mods to increase the capability it would become an outstanding choice even for me!

GJ

 

Edited 2 hours ago by Geronimo John
JD correction on my typo unit. :-)

[CRM]

4 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Ok, you asked for it!   🙂   As a ME, there is a lot to like about this unit.  And just a few things to wish for.  But the two I identified above are not one of them.

• In the video he mentioned the capability to hard wire a T-stat.  So effectively it already strikes out that wish list item.
• The water wheel disbursal of the condensate appears to minimize the amount of liquid going over the side.  That is close enough to strike out that wish item.

Now for my video take away notes:  (G = Good, NI = Not Ideal, PP = Potential Problem for some owners)

• PP   Some owners have height restrictions.  This unit "stands tall" at about 14", a good 5" taller than our OEM Dometic.   A hard deal killer for some owners for sure.  Also it will have a greater challenge with wind drag at highway speeds and lower hanging limbs and bridges.  But if you follow an 18 wheeler box trailer, they will clear all that out of your way.
• G   Dual fans
• G  Squirrel cage supply air fan
• G  All copper coils and tubing
• G  Brushless motors
• Cap tube control system.  ALL EXCELLENT. 
• G   Shroud not necessary to test run the unit.  Nice for those doing maintenance.
• NI  Access to condenser coil for cleaning will require disassembly of condenser coil housing.  Not so good for maintenance.  PP for those who need a/c where tree and other floating gunk is common.
• NI  Outstanding efficiency at lower setting’s simply due to oversizing the condenser coil and very efficient fan motors.  But there it is only putting out about 5,000 BTU's of cooling.  Good at high settings. 
• NI  Per the video graphic, the high setting of the unit requires 1337  watts of "real power" and another 294 watts of apparent power for a total generator load of 1631 watts.  This is still better than what non variable speed units can do and is low enough that most quality 2,000 watt generators can accommodate for this unit as it has a near zero surge on start-up or compressor cycling.   
• G   The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply.  In fact, they are OUTSTANDING
• PI  The unit on max setting only produces 9,000 BUT of a/c.  On a max sun, 100+ degree F Day where we often camp, that low output will take more time to cool down an OE2.  Would suggest starting the unit on max an hour before arriving at your camp site.  Your spousal unit will appreciate your thinking ahead.  

If you don't have a problem with that 14" height, and don't camp in extreme heat and sun locations, I think that this tested unt is an excellent choice.  With a larger compressor and minor mods to increase the capability it would be come an outstanding choice even for me!

GJ

 

I agree with most of this, though I think the efficiency and low BTU's provided in the low setting is actually a needed feature not found in any other unit I'm aware of. At cooler temps with high humidity this unit could act more like a dehumidifier than an AC unit and keep the cabin comfortable without having to drop the temps lower than desired to keep humidity in check. The Turbro invertor unit that I have can only ramp down to 7500 Btu's, which is lower than any unit other than the Chill Cube that I'm aware of, and in my experience this is not low enough to control humidity in low temp situations without dropping cabin temps into the low 60's or even high 50's. 

I also think having a thermistor in the remote is a HUGE feature. When set to "follow me" the remote will sample the temps at the remote itself every 3 minutes and override the internal thermistor. Think about all of us who have gone down the mod route to overcome this issue and void our warrantees.

I do worry about the low Btu's tested by Morton though... My last AC unit was in this same Btu range and performed well in the high 90's with high humidity but it could take a couple of hours to get there and I'm not so sure the Chill Cube will be acceptable in higher temps in direct sun with low humidity. Time will tell and I hope it can handle it. Maybe his Btu testing was off?

I still think it's the best AC option at the moment for those not requiring a heat pump function, and for those not wanting to mod their units.

 

[jd1923]

Gotta love ya, my friend GJ! Next time you're on the mainland, please come to Prescott and together we'll get ol' hull #342 in better shape! 🤣

OK, so as you would, one point at a time...

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

In the video he mentioned the capability to hard wire a T-stat.  So effectively it already strikes out that wish list item.

Actually, keep this one your wish list, as the wired thermostat interface is ONLY available on the ducted version which is not optional for our Olivers.

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

The water wheel disbursal of the condensate appears to minimize the amount of liquid going over the side.

My hypothesis: Out here in the SW there would little to NO condensate drip, but some in humid climates.

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Some owners have height restrictions.  This unit "stands tall" at about 14", a good 5" taller than our OEM Dometic.   A hard deal killer for besome owners for sure.

Agreed, but... Looking at the specs I see a 3.25" difference (14.5" - 11.25"). It would be 5" to your low-profile Houghton.

I promised @Tideline77 measurements which I took yesterday. My son Adam climbed up the scaffolding and place an 8' 1x3" on top of the A/C unit hanging off to the curbside. I measured the height and did not believe the number, so I measured it in the same way off the streetside, same number! I measured exactly 9' 8.5" on BOTH sides!

Let's call it 9' 9" to top of the Chill Cube A/C on hull #113. OTT advertises the Oliver to be 9' 8" top of A/C! How is that? I put an A/C at least 3" taller than OEM! Crazy if this could fit in a garage with a 10 ft door. Chris said, "Who cares how tall it is? It's quiet! 😂

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Access to condenser coil for cleaning will require disassembly of condenser coil housing.  Not so good for maintenance.  PP for those who need a/c where tree and other floating gunk is common.

I would think you could simply hose from the rear. The dirt/gunk would fall out into the condensate trough and you would have to remove the cover and hose out the condensate path completely. Two-level scaffolding helps! 😎

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Outstanding efficiency at lower setting’s simply due to oversizing the condenser coil and very efficient fan motors.  But there it is only putting out about 5,000 BTU's of cooling.  Good at high settings. 

All RV A/c manufacturers over-state specs. The Oliver is such a small, well insulated space with an inner hull that does not easily absorb heat. We'll be fine! 😎

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Per the video graphic, the high setting of the unit requires 1337  watts of "real power" and another 294 watts of apparent power for a total generator load of 1631 watts.

I'll measure and provide real numbers this summer! But any Inverter or variable speed system will take near half the power consumption of standard compressor systems, no need for any kind of Soft-Start device.

7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply.  In fact, they are OUTSTANDING

Yes, we like to camp in this range! The Chill Cube also has a Gear feature to gear power down to 75% or 50%! If your worried about high BTU fast cooling OK, but being able to run A/C conservatively, on inverted battery power, for a good amount of time is more our plan. We now have 900 Ah, and with summer temps I'd like to know how much cooling we get per Ah. Would 180 Ah (20% SOC) be enough to keep the Oliver Cabin comfortable all afternoon? If so, we could do that for 3 days knowing on day 4 we'd tow to DC-DC charge or stay a night at a campground and charge back up to 900 Ah! 😎

Edited 15 hours ago by jd1923

[Steve and MA]

10 hours ago, jd1923 said:

My hypothesis: Out here in the SW there would little to NO condensate drip, but some in humid climates....

All RV A/c manufacturers over-state specs. The Oliver is such a small, well insulated space with an inner hull that does not easily absorb heat. We'll be fine!

I agree. Though it's not on our trailer, we have the Chill Cube installed on our Pleasure-Way Excel, a 20' class B which has interior volume similar to our LE2. A small amount of condensate does run off the back of the van, but not nearly as much as it did with the 13.5k BTU Coleman Mach that it replaced. The PW van isn't as well insulated as an LE2, and it probably has a lot more heat gain than an Oliver due to the windshield. In the Texas summer heat, it has maintained cool and comfortable temperatures in our van far better than the Coleman, and it's much quieter.

I think Furrion markets the Chill Cube as 18K because it works better than some other brands that have higher labeled BTU ratings. If they marketed it as a 9k BTU unit, then it would likely be overlooked by many, considering it as being too small.  Knowing what we do now, if this AC had been available two years ago then it would have been a no brainer alternative to the expensive Truma upgrade.

[Geronimo John]

18 hours ago, CRM said:

agree with most of this, though I think the efficiency and low BTU's provided in the low setting is actually a needed feature not found in any other unit I'm aware of.

Yep.  It is sweet for sure.  As stated.

22 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

G   The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply.  In fact, they are OUTSTANDING

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

18 hours ago, CRM said:

I still think it's the best AC option at the moment for those not requiring a heat pump function, and for those not wanting to mod their units.

YES!  As stated in our combined list of limitations (Not needing a Heat Pump, Height and Very High Temperatures), I agree.  In fact I'll take it a step further.  Within those limitations, I would also state "Even for those willing and able to modify the Houghtons", this is a great unit to strongly consider." Then to take it a step further I would add "And at a much more realistic cost!"  

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

JD:  As far as using a hose to spray thru the condenser coil  to try to flow the gunk out the weeps.... You can try it.  But it certainly is not effective in all of the places I have lived and maintained.  That is why the vast majority of outside coils use an updraft design.  It leaves the gunk on the outside of the coils where it can be gently cleaned.  General design rule is to provide the Technicians access to both sides of both coils.  This is esssential for proper maintenance.... that is necessary to maintain the unit's efficiency.  So I stand firm that it is at least a NI, and for a most a PP.     

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Edited 34 minutes ago by Geronimo John

[jd1923]

Out here A/C coils fill only with red-oxide Arizona dirt. We lived a few years in South Fla where A/C coils amass all kinds of gunk!