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Posted

Hello all, hope I'm not duplicating something here but couldn't find it on the forums.

I took my trailer in to a shop today to get the wheel bearings repacked and the zerks greased. They discovered that the pads are just about shot and showed me. The wear seemed even on the pads, but they were pretty thin. The trailer has about 24k miles, much of it up and down the mountains in the west. My brake controller is set at 7.5. It this normal for the pads to wear out after 24k miles? The shop also told me that in order to replace the pads they also have to replace the bearings, even though they said the current original bearings look ok. They said they'd have to order the parts so I didn't the work done, but will want to get those pads replaced before another trip. They quoted me $390 per axle for the bearings and pads. 

2021 Elite II #841, 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4, 3.0 diesel

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Posted (edited)

We've got a couple Forum Mods and several others who have miles in the 100K+ range, so they could answer to that. But 24K sounds too soon!

Given your brake shoes have worn prematurely, it must be too much gain on the controller, your trailer is likely braking some for your tow vehicle.

Hard to say on price, depends what they are truly replacing. You should look into purchasing complete brake plate assemblies. This is likely not the correct part (BTW Dexter support can tell you the correct part #s based on your axle tag), but for example a left/right axle pair is not expensive. If your handy at all, these bolt on. Or buy the parts you need and hire the guy to do the work. And to do it right, see if a local trailer or auto parts shop can turn (machine) the drums.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-26-27.html

1 hour ago, Cameron said:

The shop also told me that in order to replace the pads they also have to replace the bearings...

This is certainly a FALSE statement! The bearings only need to be re-packed. Worn shoes down to metal can damage the drums, not the wheel bearings.

Believe me, I've owned many 50-60s classic cars that all had drum brakes on all fours and I've done more brake jobs than I can count, including rebuilding 3 dual-axle trailers! When I hear something suspect, I tend to not trust the shop. Beware and be cool! 😎 Also, we're here to help if you need installation advice. Best wishes, JD

Edited by jd1923

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
6 hours ago, Cameron said:

My brake controller is set at 7.5. It this normal for the pads to wear out after 24k miles? The shop also told me that in order to replace the pads they also have to replace the bearings,

I think closer to 6.0 is typical. The shop must think the bearings were subjected to excessive heat and thus, likely damaged as the  brakes wore out prematurely. 

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Ron and Brooxie | Clear Lake (Houston), Texas

2020 OLEll, Twin, 579:

No installed solar, dual 30# propane tanks w/GasStop safety devices, Renogy 40A DC-DC charger, 460Ah LFP battery bank/Victron SmartShunt, auxiliary Cerbo-S GX/Victron 30A Blue Smart IP22 Charger combo, interior mounted Hughes Autoformer, twin independent sliding Lagun mount tables, extended dinette table and pantry landing, tongue-mounted hoist, Beech Lane refrigerator Ventilation/Evaporate Coil fans, metal valve stems with TST cap sensors and signal repeater, Waste Master sewer hose management system, Dreiha Atmos 4.4 A/C upgrade/Ceilo Breez Max thermostat, FlagpoleBuddy Starlink Mini suction mount kit.

2019 GMC Savana 2500 Cargo Work Van:

Explorer Limited SE, Low-Top 7 Passenger van conversion, 6.0L V8 Vortec, 6-Speed Automatic, RWD; Air-Lift LoadLifter air suspension/WirelessAir compressor; Bilstein B6 4600 Series shocks; metal valve stems for TST tire pressure monitoring system; Buyers Products cargo containment boxes/DC Cargo securement system; rear bumper DC-DC Anderson power cable outlet; 100Ah 12V portable power station/Dometic CFX 75L Dual Zone cooler; front 2” receiver hitch/QuikrStuff Mach2 double bike rack; Mechman 320A high output alternator; Starlink Mini/Veritas Vans magnetic mount.

Posted

I am sure the model of truck matters, but my brake controller is set to 3.

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Jeff & Cindy - NE Arkansas - 2023 Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull #1423

TV - 2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax 4x4

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Posted

Of course, there also could have been an issue with the adjustment of the brake shoes and/or with the automatic adjusters.  But, most likely (as jd1923 first pointed out) your brake controller is set too high.

Any way you slice it (unless you have the bad habit of "riding" your brakes) 24,000 is way too soon under anything near "normal" usage to wear a set of trailer brakes out.

Bill

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2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Near Asheville, NC

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Posted

The first time I replaced brakes was just a couple of years ago, I’ve got 110Ksih miles on the trailer now.  24K is way too soon for normal braking.  I also agree with the comments on bearings, they should not need replacing, just repacking.  Mike

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Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpgimage.jpeg.815d5dd040f6c139c307d1e86ae39bab.jpeg

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

The first time I replaced brakes was just a couple of years ago, I’ve got 110Ksih miles on the trailer now.  24K is way too soon for normal braking.  I also agree with the comments on bearings, they should not need replacing, just repacking.  Mike

If I'm replacing the drums I never re-use the bearings. Maybe unnecessary overkill, but I just never felt comfortable doing so. 

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2010 Elite II Hull #45, the first LE2 sold.  2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Off Road 4WD 5.7 with 38 gallon tank, 4.30 axle and tow package.

Posted
57 minutes ago, CRM said:

If I'm replacing the drums I never re-use the bearings. Maybe unnecessary overkill, but I just never felt comfortable doing so. 

Of course, since you would not hammer out bearing races and reinstall them after being damaged merely by removing them.

Unless the shoes were down to metal on the drums, the bearings should be removed (races stay), all old grease removed from hubs and bearings, get the drums turned and repack bearings. The complete braking plates with new shoes, springs and magnets are the way to go. Investing in new drums and bearings would about triple the parts cost!

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

Posted
11 hours ago, jd1923 said:

This is certainly a FALSE statement! The bearings only need to be re-packed. Worn shoes down to metal can damage the drums, not the wheel bearings.

 

5 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

I think closer to 6.0 is typical. The shop must think the bearings were subjected to excessive heat and thus, likely damaged as the  brakes wore out prematurely

I agree with both of the above.

With a 5 year old trailer, replacing the OEM bearings is suggested.  A difficult task if not experienced in doing so.  But with some mentoring it is actually not all that difficult.  

Temken bearings and National/Temken races are the preferred choice here in Ollie Land.

Here is Frank C post with the same mileage as yours and likely the same OEM bearings:

GJ

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

visited-united-states-map.png

Posted
2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Of course, since you would not hammer out bearing races and reinstall them after being damaged merely by removing them.

Unless the shoes were down to metal on the drums, the bearings should be removed (races stay), all old grease removed from hubs and bearings, get the drums turned and repack bearings. The complete braking plates with new shoes, springs and magnets are the way to go. Investing in new drums and bearings would about triple the parts cost!

Yes, if they're able to be resurfaced. I just wouldn't ever relocate the bearings to a new set of drums. 

2010 Elite II Hull #45, the first LE2 sold.  2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Off Road 4WD 5.7 with 38 gallon tank, 4.30 axle and tow package.

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