Adding a Matching Rear Porch Light and some Front Lighting

[jd1923]

The Oliver Porch Lights are bright for a dark campsite, so we rarely use them. But if you need to light up the area they work great. I've often wondered, why isn't there lighting on the front and rear of the Oliver?

I asked a year ago about replacement lights for our OEM Porch Lights and just purchased some recently. OTT should install these lights in all four directions. I would have done one up front too, but running wire would be difficult. I got something else for up front, more on that later. 

https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319

I carefully measured the four Porch Lights OTT installed, as the distance from hull belly line, which btw holds a tape measure nicely, up to centerline of the Porch Light at the mounting screws. Turns out they were all installed at different heights +/- 3/4". As a special bonus, this light is 1/4" off from front to the rear mounting screws. My new Rear Porch Light, I promise is the straightest of the bunch! 🤣

It's not easy to choose the best spot to drill into the exterior of your hull, this one especially. I cut away some of the white insulation in the back of the attic. I used a 2-ft piece of metal fish-tape with the ends curled back, running it down the inside of the back exterior hull. Repeatedly, it measured 12" form the bottom of the OLIVER taillight to where the fish-tape hit the top of the rear window frame. It measured 12" so I figured I should go 10" max.

Looking from the outside, there is a flat fiberglass frame around the rear window. Above that, the top rear is convex. I had to find the best spot so that the approx. 8" x  1 1/2" light would sit flat in both directions. If not water would get behind it. I drilled a 1/4" hole centered to the window, so the light is just above the flat frame area of the rear window. 

I soldered and heat shrink extra length of wire to the light. If they only attached 18" of wire! Offset the splices so that they would fit nicely into the drilled hole. It wasn't an easy pull but a few ins and outs and the light pulled flush (would be easier with 2 people, one in one out). I eyeballed the light level to the window frame. I wanted to VHB the light housing vs. drilling two mounting holes but the design of the light would not allow for it. They do not include hardware. Found the stoutest 1" course thread screws that would fit the openings and I drilled 6/94" holes after marking the centers.

Wiring? I wanted to add the new rear light to the Side Porch Lights (streetside). However, I could not find the switch leg in the back corner of the attic and I did not want to remove all the stuff out of the kitchen cabinets. But that would be the right way to do it. Cabinets empty, you can easily run wiring up to the main switch panel.

Our hull had a rear camera and a separate switch to power it. I removed the camera a year ago, so I'm using this separate switch with existing wiring. I copied something Geoff did, where he used a Sharpie to black out the word "Awning." Mine has a thin cut piece of black tape over the word "Camera" so it just reads "Rear" now! 🤣 

I had to wait patiently for dusk and dark tonight! The hull looks great with the new Rear Porch Light to compliment the side lights. And finally, it alone lights up the yard! 😎

Edited yesterday at 07:55 AM by jd1923

[jd1923]

I realized I did not take a picture of the installed Rear Porch Light in the daylight so I did that today. I kept the black rubber seal that OTT was removing since they were causing streaks with age. The rubber looks to be good quality, not like the rubber surround on the Furrion 30A receptacles that really streaked badly. If it streaks later I'll simply remove it then, but at this time I didn't want to mess with sealant.

If I do add a rear camera, it would be for security purposes while camping vs. having eyes when backing up. I would not mount it rooftop where OTT did, but surface mount something below the OLIVER taillight and above the new Rear Porch Light. We usually have the TV down and the rear window shade closed, so it's not easy to look to the rear. Either way, it will be nice to have light back there when needed.

Got my front light done today. Pictures coming soon! 😎

[topgun2]

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

I would not mount it rooftop where OTT did, but surface mount something below the OLIVER taillight and above the new Rear Porch Light.

When Twist was in production I asked that the trailer be wired for a rear camera but I would supply and install my own camera.  I decided that I would mount it in the spare tire cover.  For security purposes this is a good place.  However, for traveling down the road - not so much.  The spray from wet roads makes this camera location virtually useless and even when its not raining it is difficult to use the camera in order to see beyond the vehicle that is directly behind me.  Therefore, for driving, I now have another camera mounted in the usual high position (up near the marker lights) but still retain the lower camera too.

If you decide to do as I did and mount a camera in the spare tire cover - PM me.  The spare tire cover is NOT "in line" with the  body nor the rear bumper.  Because of this I needed to put a spacer in so as to compensate for the different angles.

Bill

 

[jd1923]

Finished my install on a front light, but won't be able to see how effective it is until it gets dark tonight (more pics after). My hope is that when the TV is attached, I can unhitch when getting to a campground after dark and see what's stored in the truck bed. I got this Docking Light on the same order as the Porch Lights.

https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-led-flood-boat-docking-light

I used 3M 4950 VHB tape to mount it the the top of the doghouse. There is of course a wire harness, so I drilled into the doghouse but not on top, just behind it where there is room and it's out of sight. I used a 13/64" drill bit which is a hair over the diameter of the wire loom. The picture shows the SAE disconnect wrapped up, only so it could be seen in the photo. Got to have a disconnect to fill the LP tanks.

I tapped into the power for the emergency brake which is unfused 12VDC (the brake switch still has a direct connection). Added an inline 2A fuse and a switch in front of the doghouse. Added wire loom and tied up everything. Chose this location for an easy reach from either side, somewhere out of the way, and with a straight line for drilling the hole. The light draws 0.3A and provides 290 LM at 5000 K. Can't wait to see it at night! 😎

[Steph and Dud B]

I've considered adding a forward facing light to the front jack housing using the existing light switch.

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Steph and Dud B said:

I've considered adding a forward facing light to the front jack housing using the existing light switch.

That's an excellent idea with the switch and 12V right there! You could remove the bubble level (for those of us who use LevelMate) and mount a post light top center.

[Ronbrink]

Alternatively, I bought three solar motion lights for camp security and general outdoor lighting. Once camp is setup, they are staged forward facing on the  propane tank housing, rearward facing on the spare tire cover, and usually on a picnic table or other strategic location. I instantly have light when and where I need it, and a deterrent to unwanted visitors! 

[topgun2]

33 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

Alternatively, I bought three solar motion lights for camp security and general outdoor lighting.

Basically I did the same with THESE LIGHTS.

Fairly often I camp where there are bears.  Certainly I do not want to step out the door and come face to face with something a bunch stronger than I am.😵‍💫