Composting toilet

[topgun2]

Don't mean to hijack the thread away from poo, but I disagree with Buzzy's comment on the upper cabinet latches.  I find that by simply putting either your index or middle finger in the middle of the latch, you can unlatch by pulling the ring with that finger and then simply lower the door down to its resting position.  This way, you never have to touch the surface of the door which would leave fingerprints to clean.  These latches have never come open traveling down rough roads and as Buzzy does say - they look nice.

 

Bill

[Muppy]

Hi Overland. I am interested in the discussion on the compression latches being discussed on the overhead cabinets. We are considering the frosted glass, but, are the compression latches using a magnet? Every single tv cabinet or pantry cabinet we ever had with a magnetic, had a issue, because eventually they would move, ever so slightly and then it was a constant tightening of the latches...even with lock tight. So are these magnetless? Thanks!

[Overland]

The compression latches are exactly the same ones that are on the pantry and closet door.  They just tighten up when you snap the pull ring back down, and are adjustable from behind for how tight they get.  They'll definitely be tighter, but the drawback is that you'll have to lift and twist the latch to open the door instead of just lifting the latch.

 

On the fingerprint issue, the frosted plexiglass will still show them, but I don't think nearly as much as the mirrored or gloss black finish.  You'd probably get more of a dull grease smudge than an actual fingerprint - nothing that a quick wipe with some windex wouldn't fix.  There's actually two good photos of them on the website now if you want to take a look.

[Muppy]

Hey Buzzy! Sorry, but what you have described to me, is the nightmare we are afraid of....the typical , ridiculous travel trailer problems that would drive us absolutely insane! You can make any story have that little ray of sunshine though? Band aids...check...duct tape...( do they sell it bright white?).....check..These are the types of problems airstream has been known to have the last couple of years of builds...what we are trying to avoid with the Oliver...ugh...Thanks for your help last night, and all the time over the phone.

 

Muppy

[GrayGhost]

Hi Buzzy-

 

I cant help but think that your cabinet latch issues are unique....haven't heard of any other such problems, and mine all work flawlessly. Perhaps the catches for the latches just need adjustment, and it was missed before delivery?

[Tralien]

Hi GrayGhost

 

Our experience with the overhead cabinet doors mirrors (intentional) that of Buzzy's without the band aids. We routinely tape the doors closed with painter's tape to keep them closed while en route. Tommy provided instructions for adjusting the latches but slight tightening renders the latch useless.

[Mike and Carol]

We had issues with two overhead doors opening while traveling on our first trip.  I found that adjusting the position of the door on the hinge solved the problem.  We use the one finger method for opening and closing to keep our mirrors clean(er).  If someone finds a new latch let everyone know!

 

We also had a problem with the drawer in the nightstand.  One of the plastic catches inside the slide mechanism broke and I had to tape the drawer shut while traveling.  Tommy sent me a new mechanism and the problem was solved.

 

I remember that someone removed and painted the window frames to match the white fiberglass.  I've thought about doing that also.  Really don't like the off white color.  Looks like an add on.

 

Mike

[topgun2]

Buzzy,

 

I do not want to make any bigger deal of this than you have tried to do, however, if I had the same situation as you I would NOT tolerate it.  Those doors that come open while in transit are simply just waiting to break - either the hinge or the fiberglass or the items inside.  ANY place that is cutting you is NOT acceptable for virtually any reason.  What a PITA for the whole deal.

 

Please get on the phone with Tommy or Jason to get this thing fixed ASAP - before the 2017 camping season rolls around.

 

Bill

[GrayGhost]

Buzzy-

 

Until others chimed in, I thought you had a unique experience, apparently not. But unique or not, I agree with Bill, a flaw like that should not go unattended by Oliver. What a source of annoyance it must be to have to tape your doors shut every time you move your trailer.  If I were the owner of Oliver I would fly a service person to New Hamshire and make it right. (Hint...hint....)

[Overland]

Buzzy, I'm definitely opting for the compression latches, so I'll send a pic the first time I see them installed.  Our construction window starts the first week of Feb, though I doubt if those latches will be installed until the near end, probably end of April.  And our build might get delayed with some of the customizations we're asking for.

 

If you're inclined to experiment, you could take the latch off of your pantry and see if it fits the cabinets.  I suspect it requires a larger hole though, and probably a bit different positioning, so it might be that you'd have to swap the doors.

 

I'd think that a few quick swipes around the edges of the doors with some fine grit wet/dry sandpaper would quickly take care of the sharp edges.  I'd venture to guess that's a step in the process which they may have forgotten on your unit.

[Try2Relax]

Bill, I very much appreciate your guidance. I do view our Forum as the best source for insights into solving our issues. At first, I honestly thought I was the only owner having this issue, but maybe that is not the case. I do tend to make every attempt to fix issues on my own. (Duct tape works wonders and bands aids are not that expensive!) For me, history has proven that is my best approach. I guess OTT may not understand the upper cabinet latch issue. I saw how they did a great job redesigning the latches for the propane cover, so I would guess they have the expertise to redesign the cabinet latches for existing and prospective owners. Tommy has been very helpful in the past. I thought he was in the process of moving back to Ohio so I did not want to burden him especially if the recommendation was to simply tinker with the latch or hinges. My great hope is a proven solution for switching out the latches which I can do myself since I cannot travel 2500 miles round trip to fix four latches. If Overland makes progress, my solution may become apparent. Thank you for your understanding and patience. Buzzy

 

Buzzy, does this show in any of your videos? I have never had an issue with mine and wonder what the difference is between them, there doesn't seem like there would be room for much. Does it not affect all of them in you trailer? If not, can you see any difference in those that do and don't?

 

 

[DavePhelps]

Buzzy,

 

It seems like each trailer has its own set of issues. My upper doors have worked great and I'm wondering if you have an adjustment issue. Are your reveals equal between the door and frame? There is adjustment there and you can move the plexiglass door up or down by loosening the hinge screws. The latch strike itself which is attached to the upper cabinet opening is also moveable in or out. If your door is opening in transit, that would tell me that either the latch is not engaging the strike enough, or that the strike is too far from the door not allowing the latch to fully engage. I would try raising up the door. If there is still slop with the door moving in and out, I would then move the strike to get the best closure. There is the possibility that the hole in the door for the latch was mis-drilled, but I assume they use jigs over there that would make this occurrence a rarity. My smaller Elite has smaller doors, but the location of the latch should be the same. The distance from the top edge of the plexiglass to the top edge of my latch is 11/16" (on mirrored side). They are all exactly the same. I'd fuss with the adjustments before bailing on those latches. The compression latches used on the closet and pantry are much bulkier and heavier than the others and I think they would be a pain for those smaller doors. Get after those latches with a shorty screwdriver and see. I think you'll get them to work fine (I hope!) I had to reset all my kitchen cabinet drawers as they were all crooked....ughh. All the slides had to be moved. My shades also would come loose at the bottom and flop around in transit. All fixed now and still loving my Ollie! There's always a few gremlins to exorcise when you get something new! Oh yes, get some 220 wet/dry sand paper, dip it in water and ease those sharp edges!! I also eased all the sharp edges on my rear bumper and exposed frame parts outside (we're talking 1/16" radius here) That bumper was dangerous! :^)

 

Good luck.

 

Dave

[KarenLukens]

Am I special?

 

Buzzy

Haha :) Yes because you bought an Olli, you are special Buzzy :) Re-positioning doors, hinges and latches is one of those things that we all need to get used to as time goes on. After watching your movies many times over while anticipating our Olli being finished in a few weeks, I'm sure that you will not have a problem readjusting whatever it takes to keep the doors in place. Unfortunately, with trailers, it does become a common practice as the doors may shift a bit because of that one special bump in the road... I can't count how many times I've changed and manipulated doors and latches to get them secure. And with time and patience you will find that they can all be made to fit tight and not come open. You will add some shims to some and take some glass off of another, but in the end, your doors will all be secured :)

 

Reed

[GrayGhost]

Ok, I couldn't stand it anymore and went to look at my upper cabinets. The fiberglass flange that the catch is attached too is also flexible on mine, so I don't think that is it. Seems to me though that the ones that "open too easily" can be shimmed...found these on line...various thicknesses down to 1/32"... might help.

 

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=83923866&cid=CAPLA:B:Shopping_-_Catch_All&bingpla=bingpla_23251792&k_clickid=6cad95ce-e0a5-472d-b65c-42ffe1a60bcd

 

 

[John E Davies]

I am resurrecting this thread because it seemed to go off on a tangent and die.. Here is an excellent page with just about every answer you might want.

 

I do have an Oliver specific question.

 

What comes with the Natures Head in terms of supplies? You need peat moss or a substitute media, vinegar, spray bottle for rinsing the bowl, and maybe a small step stool if you are height challenged.

 

Does any of this stuff come with the trailer at delivery? I am working on a pre-delivery shopping list. I will talk to Anita if nobody here can help.

 

I wonder why we haven't seen any pictures yet....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

 

[SeaDawg]

The nature's head we saw at the boat show didn't come with anything. The couple demonstrating it recommended coconut coir bricks from Home Depot. They expand about 10 times in volume, they said..

 

Special order, but free pickup in about a week.

 

Sherry

[SeaDawg]

The nature's head we saw at the boat show didn't come with anything. The couple demonstrating it recommended coconut coir bricks from Home Depot. They expand about 10 times in volume, they said..

 

Special order, but free pickup in about a week.

[John E Davies]

Yep, as confirmed by Anita, unlike the standard black tank system, the Nature's Head toilet is not delivered "ready to poop". You have to supply the peat moss or coconut coir to load the reservoir, as well as any other supplies like vinegar and a spray bottle for keeping it sanitary. And maybe a step stool.... Seat height in the Ollie is about 24 inches.

 

I ordered this stuff. It comes in four bricks, one of which is just the right amount to charge the toilet. Adding water can be a little problematic since it continues to absorb water for a long time. According to one online webpage you can place a dry brick in the bottom of the toilet, add one cup of water and let it sit. It will continue to suck moisture out of your, um, deposits and reach an ideal moisture content. Adding too much water at the start is a mistake and can make it too liquidy.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HLSL7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I do like the idea of coconut coir since it is renewable and would otherwise go into a landfill. Peat is not renewable and a peat bog takes thousands of years to form.

 

I am no environmentalist, mainly I want to cut the umbilical cord that ties you to dump facilities.

 

I think that Oliver should deliver the trailer with the needed media for the tank, I am going to suggest that they place a sealed brick of this stuff in the tank of each one delivered in the future. Cost is essentially nil and it would be good PR.

 

This shows a laid-back mess-free way to add water and expand it at home: ...

 

This is a good source of info on using the head: ... https://theboatgalley.com/our-composting-toilet/

 

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA