tV relocation

[Windwalker]

Here's my idea as to where the tv should be located. This was competed utilizing the factory brackit that came with the

Trailer. Arm tension is adjustable and will have to be tightened, I did have to buy a 1 1/2 counter grommet and paint it white to bring cabling down to tv.

 

Marc

[Try2Relax]

That was exactly my thought! But I didn't think of using the existing bracket (DUH), I was concerned about the weight of the whole unit while underway and some of the back roads in the west. Did you use a backer plate to reinforce the support or did you just use the screw mounts as it was attached to the wall?

[Mike and Carol]

This is on my list of projects.  Glad to know the existing hardware can be used!  Thanks.  Mike

[Windwalker]

I used to quarter inch bolts with oversized washers. The area that the bracket is bolted to is cored and seems very strong. The weakest area seems to be where the tv bolts to the bracket when stowed and I think I will use some padding between the overhead and the tv while traveling. All in all It works great, nice having it out of the corner.

 

Marc

 

[Mike and Carol]

Marc, (or anyone else who has done this),

 

Any issues since you repositioned the TV?  I'm going to copy what you've done when we get back from our December trip.  I'm also going to add an HDMI splitter so I can add an Apple TV.  I'm thinking about just using command strips to stick the Apple TV up under next to the TV bracket by the hole for the wires.  If anyone has done this I would be interested in your results.  Mike

[DavidS]

I want to do this too, but it will have to wait. Too many things to do, not enough time. I need to retire....

 

I’m also going to add an HDMI splitter so I can add an Apple TV.

My plan is to use this mount for the Apple TV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017K17PQ8/

[SLBenson]

We just did a factory tour yesterday and John Oliver's new trailer was on the production line.  He has a new flip down TV in his trailer and Jason (sales rep) said they may start offering something like it.  He said the problem with the one that John Oliver picked out for his trailer is that it is not high definition and does not have HDMI connection.  Jason is going to look to see if there is one offered that is as high quality as the one offered in the corner now.  The other thing Jason has to do is to get it approved because it has to be certified as not blocking the emergency exit which is the window.  That is why they cannot put the stationary TV there now.  He thinks the flip down will be OK for regulations but needs to see if there is a higher quality model.  If anyone has suggestions on a model we will let Jason know and if approved get it in our trailer.  My husband Stan in picture below is pointing to John Oliver's name on the shell.  The other picture is the flip down TV.  You have to click on it to see the full picture.

[Mike and Carol]

 

My plan is to use this mount for the Apple TV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017K17PQ8/

 

David, this looks like a much better solution than command strips!  Thanks.  Mike

[ScubaRx]

This is the mount that we specified for the build of our Outlaw Oliver back in 2013.  Oliver won't tell you about it because of the regulations about the rear egress window.  We have had zero problems with it for over 20000 miles.  It is available on Amazon for a much better price.  It is mounted directly in front of the rear window and we travel with it in the stowed (up) position. It does not block the rear window so it could still be used in an emergency.  Realistically, I would rather take my chances getting past whatever "emergency" might be happening to get out the door rather than risk life and limb trying to get everybody and the dogs out through that window.  We are using the standard Jensen 12vdc TV that Oliver puts in all their trailers.

[Mike and Carol]

Steve, that does look like a sturdy mount, more robust than what is used for the standard corner mount.  You've got a lot of trouble free miles with it, I'm going to check it out on Amazon.  Thanks.  Mike

[SLBenson]

We think this mount is perfect.  Thanks for the link ScubaRx.  It's better than the flip down TV that didn't have good reviews on Amazon and your suggestion is much more versatile.  We are going to talk to our Oliver sales rep to see if they will install this with the standard TV on it in the middle position.  They can even ask them to reinforce the other side where it is mounted like we saw they do at the factory for the awning mounts.

[ScubaRx]

...ask them to reinforce the other side...

 

Reinforcement is as simple as bolting the mount through a 1/4" thick plate of aluminum on the inside of the upper cabinet. In 20000 miles this has proven to be a completely sturdy mount.  If the factory is unwilling to do this, just have them provide the plate and drill the holes (or you could do this yourself if you choose.)  The inside mat and insulation completely covers the plate and all the wiring making for a very neat installation.

[Mike and Carol]

My plan is to reinforce with some MDF.  Aluminum would be better.  What's a good source for a sheet of 1/4" aluminum?

[Overland]

Try onlinemetals.com

[ScubaRx]

...What’s a good source for a sheet of 1/4″ aluminum?

 

Mike, I buy all my steel and aluminum for my various projects here locally at a dealer called Tigrett Steel.  I'm sure there are similar places all around you.  What you should ask for is a piece from their "drops."  These are pieces that have been cut from larger jobs and end up in their scrap pile.  They will usually shear it to size for you for nothing. Anything from 1/8" to 1/4" thick is sufficient.  The mounting holes for the bracket itself are in an approximately 3.5" x 4" rectangle so the plate will need to be somewhere around 6" square, again this is not critical, it just needs to be larger than the mounting hole pattern.  If anyone can't find this material and make it, I will be happy to fab it up and ship it to you.

 

 

[Mainiac]

Tractor Supply and Home Depot have small pieces of metal...

[Mike and Carol]

Steve, thanks.  Will look locally first,  see what kind of drops/pieces I can snag.

 

Happy Thanksgiving all!

[Mainiac]

Did you have to relocate the cable, and if so, how did you hide the old hole? A plug like you might use to hide an unused hole in a kitchen sink?

[ScubaRx]

Did you have to relocate the cable, and if so, how did you hide the old hole? A plug like you might use to hide an unused hole in a kitchen sink?

Our TV was mounted in the center during our build, so no old hole. I did have to enlarge and move the original wiring hole for a bunch of new cables going thru. Hole saws are your best friend for this type of work. I have a set of about forty DeWalt bi-metal saws ranging from 9/16" up to over 4". They have proven invaluable in making nice clean holes in fiberglass. There are several tricks using a hole saw that will allow you to offset a hole to another place or simply make the hole bigger in the same place.

[Try2Relax]

 

I agree with the aluminum backing. I ordered mine from Amazon. This supports a mount from the original mfg but their heavy version as I hung a Samsung 40" 4K HDR on it @just under 20lbs.

 

This definitely does NOT meet fire code and while it fits and works perfectly, I am concerned about the egress time and may drop it back down to stand on top of night stand and travel face down on bed, until I redesign mount to allow for faster egress

[Mike and Carol]

Here's my version of the TV relocation.  Not too difficult.  I took my time and measured multiple times before drilling and cutting.

 

 

Here's the mount I used.  Also, an AppleTV mount, HDMI splitter, 3' HDMI cord, lightening to HDMI adaptor and a 1/8 sheet of aluminum.

 

 

I used 1/4" bolts that were 1 1/2" long.  The aluminum is 6"X8" (I left the plastic backing on).  I relocated the hole insert.  It takes a 2" hole saw to cut a new hole.  Removing the two sides of the attic compartment entails unscrewing the two bolts at the bottom of each.  It was somewhat of a rats nest of wires behind the side on the left.  Once I got them sorted out I pulled the TV associated wires back to the middle.  They use duct tape to secure them, so I had to pull some of that up.  I also used duct tape to secure what I moved.  Once the insulation is back down and the black mat in place there is only a slight hump in the back where the wires go through the new hole.

 

 

 

 

I used 3M Command tape to mount the HDMI splitter to the side.  The HDMI out of the top of the splitter goes to the TV.  The two HDMI going in to the bottom are from the Furion and the AppleTV.  The power cord is for the Apple TV.  I have a lightening to HDMI adaptor cord that I will use when streaming video from my iPhone.  Our AT&T/DirecTV account includes unlimited data when streaming video but the ability to send it to the TV via Airplay is blocked.  Using the adapter to direct connect works.  To do that I will have to unplug the AppleTV from the splitter.  So many campgrounds have great wifi.... I wish.

 

 

I also used 3M Command tape to mount the AppleTV.  It's back near the new hole.  When the TV is down you can't see it but the remote still controlled it fine.

 

 

I used a neoprene wire wrap (Amazon).  It was more flexible that the plastic the factory used.  I zip tied it to a hole at the top of the mount so there's not much wire movement when moving the TV.  The mount is adjustable up/down and right/left.  You can also adjust the tension to remove any free play.  I have it adjusted so I have to apply some force to move it.

 

 

In the up position.  I can see I need to adjust the left/right so that it is more level when stowed.  To the left of the window I used while plastic door knob protectors to cover the old holes.  Also, on over the old wire hole.  They are less noticeable in person.

 

 

AppleTV streaming from the house.

 

 

I will share my only frustration.  I left removing the old mount until the end.  I thought I would just unscrew the two phillips head screws from the inserts in the wall.  There were no inserts.  They weren't screws.  They were bolts that were connected on the back of the inner shell by some sort of lock nut.  Whatever is on the back of the inner shell moved with the bolt so that no amount of unscrewing even with a lot of outward pressure did anything.  You can see around the upper screw where I tried to get a small screwdriver in to hold the insert (that wasn't there).  I ended up using my Dremel to cut the mount around the bolts so I could pull the mount off and then cut the heads off the bolts.  I then pushed the remnants back into the holes so that they are flush with the wall and covered them.  I think we'll look for something to hang that might cover the cover....

 

Mike

 

 

[rideandfly]

Mike,

 

That's an excellent installation! Nice job!

[Mainiac]

Received an email from Anita at Oliver today, and I was informed that they would install a fold up TV. There would be no additional labor cost. They would credit me for the normal TV and then charge me for the one they use. I have inquired what that all means, but have not yet received a reply...

[DavidS]

Here’s my version of the TV relocation.

Mike, Thanks for the excellent description and photos of the TV mount, and also your photo showing the parts. I have saved a link to this thread, and this is going onto my Project List.

 

The photos show a white grommet that you used to pass cables down from the overhead compartment. What is that, and where did you get it?

 

Thanks.

[Mike and Carol]

 The photos show a white grommet that you used to pass cables down from the overhead compartment. What is that, and where did you get it? Thanks.

 

David, the white grommet is the one that came from the factory.  I removed it from the factory hole and used it in the hole I cut.  It fits a 2" hole.  I covered the old hole with a white plastic door knob protector.  When you get ready to do this I'll be available to answer any more questions you might have.  Mike