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Noise from Progressive Dynamics Power Center


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I had a noise coming from my PD4060K Power Control Center only when plugged in to shore power, with the charger in storage mode at 13.2 volts and with nothing on in the camper. The charger will normally make a faint hum, but this was a loud noise. The instant anything was switched on the noise would either change pitch or completely quit. KountryKamper listened to it at the rally and told me some things to try but I couldn’t get the noise to stop. I called Progressive Dynamics and told them what was happening and they immediately said that they were aware of the problem and would send me a new converter module.

 

The following picture shows the old and new modules side by side on my work bench. The new larger module fit in the space where the smaller old module had been.

 

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This photo shows the edge of the old module that can be seen with the front panel removed from the power center.

 

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This photo shows the edge of the new module that can be seen with the front panel removed from the power center.

 

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Again, the charger will normally make a faint hum but if you have a loud noise coming from your converter there is a fix available.

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax

 

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Did PD give you any insight on what was going on?

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Steve, Tali and the dogs: Reacher, Lucy and Rocky plus our beloved Storm and Maggie (both waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD Diesel 4x4 

 

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A hum from the HW50C (under the port side bed) started about a year ago. It was never there before and it can get annoying when trying to sleep. Only when plugged in to shore power. PI said to try cleaning the contacts - that didn't work. Donna says it doesn't bother her, but it drives me a bit crazy... mostly because I suspect it should NOT be there.

Was your unit from under the bed or from the unit under the dinette table.

Gregg

 

OOPS... think i am confusing Progressive Dynamics and Progressive Industries.

 

Gregg & Donna Scott and Piper the Westie  -    The Flying Sea Turtle - Hull # 145     Western NC


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No specifics. The fellow I spoke to asked for my serial number, said that they were aware of the problem and that they “had made a change to the board” and would send me a new one. You can see from the first picture that they didn’t just “make a change to the board”. It was completely different.

 

Changing them out was not a problem. Instructions are in the owner’s manual and were also provided with the new module. KountryKamper had changed them out before and gave me some pointers. Unplugged from shore power and tripped the DC disconnect under the street side bunk before the change.

Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax

 

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Gregg, The Progressive Dynamics power center is the device located under the dinette. And yes, I have to stop and think about Progressive Dynamics and Progressive Industries.

 

Edit: Well I had to think a minute. My Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C is also located under the dinette seat in the same compartment as the Progressive Dynamics PD 4060K power center.

 

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax

 

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Bill, it wasn’t the fan running or trying to run. It wasn’t a hum either, more like contacts chattering. I will try to post a video.

 

I can’t post a video. It is too long and I don’t know how to edit it. If someone wants to hear the sound let me know and I will email it to you.

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax

 

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Townesw,

 

Ours was just out of warranty when it failed. They asked if I could hear the fan running, but I never heard the fan run. Don't hear very well anyway after years of riding motorcycles and flying without proper hearing protection. :)

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Bill

LE2 #75

 

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KountryKamper told me to unplug from shore power and turn the refrigerator on DC on the highest setting and pull the batteries down to 12v resting voltage. Took several hours but I got the batteries down. Then he had me plug back in to AC and leave the refrigerator on DC on highest setting.

Well that did the trick. With the charger trying to recharge the batteries and the refrigerator on DC the EMS display showed 27 amps and that little fan was blowing like crazy. So this test ruled out the fan. The fan is actually a variable speed fan and will change speed based on (I think) the temperature.

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Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax

 

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Noise might have been the fan. Replaced ours because of charging problems.

 

IMG_0435-L.jpg

 

Any idea if the hinge is swappable?

 

I never understood why this unit does not have a removable cover instead of a hinge, which is very much on the wrong side for the mounting location!!! The only practical way to work inside the front (replace fuse or tighten fuse socket) is to completely remove the table, which is an extremely poor design for a “quick access” breaker/ fuse panel.

 

Thanks,

 

John Davies

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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John, this sounds crazy, but what if you pulled the power center out and put it back in upside down. The door will open the opposite way. It is so close to the floor I have to lay on the floor to see it and even then it is difficult to see with the readers in the bottom of my lenses. Mounted upside down you could lean over the dinette seat with your chest resting on the edge of the seat and look down at it.

Bill and Martha

2018 LEII Hull 313

2019 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax

 

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While you are in the compartment looking, check the fuses. The chart on the door doesn't match the fuses that the factory installed, at least in mine. The chart shows the basement should be 15 amp. However what they actually installed was a 7.5 amp. Now I have not had any problems and the 7.5 amp has not blown, so it may be adequate. I guess my concern is if the fuse blows and it is replaced by the 15 amp, have we created a problem? But I also found that I need to carry a fuse removal tool. Laying on the floor trying to look around the door, holding a flashlight, fuses are hard to get too. We also pushed the test button on the propane/monoxide under there too. It did not go off. There is our immediate next project...

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The fuse clips are very weak, and if you apply any side force to the fuse while inserting it, the ears can spread and then you have a poor connection. I had intermittent fridge operation due to this problem.

 

Check EVERY single fuse by carefully removing and reinstalling it straight! If one fuse is loose, tighten the clip by gently squeezing the little ears together to make a narrower gap.

 

You can use a set of narrow tipped needle nose pliers, and you could do it with power connected if you tape the tips and are brave like me, but it would be best to disconnect power entirely.

 

I am less than impressed with the choice of this unit for an Oliver when there are better marine grade units out there. I consider it to be an unacceptable shortcut on their part foe a premium trailer.

 

I too found an incorrect fuse. The Natures Head one should be 2.5 or 3, they had a 1 amp that blew on Day 2.The mistake was probably due to a simple failure to read the installation manual, it is clearly listed there.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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  • 4 months later...

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