Black&Gray drain handle relocate

[Townesw]

Anybody done a mod where you can close the basement door while a drain valve handle is pulled? I know it’s best to only drain the tanks when there is water in them so I’m not wanting to open the valve and leave it open. I want to be able to open a valve and then close the basement door when it is raining cats and dogs and the water is pouring off the roof directly onto the open basement door.

Bill

[ScubaRx]

My door will close with the handles pulled. You can always install the electric valves and eliminate having to pull the handles at all.

[Townesw]

Steve, I know there are several things different about your Oliver, but on my wife’s Oliver (#313) the handles stick out way too far when pulled to close the door. Who makes the electric valves? Is there a way to open the valves if you lose power?

[ScubaRx]

The installation of these valves is high on my list of to-do’s. They are manually operable in case of failure (mechanical or electrical).

 

You do not have to remove or modify any of the plumbing to install.

[John E Davies]

The installation of these valves is high on my list of to-do’s. They are manually operable in case of failure (mechanical or electrical).

You do not have to remove or modify any of the plumbing to install.

 

Those are nifty. This is amusing from the Owners Manual:

 

”Mount switch in a compartment close to Auto-Drain. Insure switch cannot be pushed accidentally by articles stored in the compartment.”

 

I think I would use a safety toggle switch, with a flip up guard. Accidentally dumping could be pretty annoying.

 

What is the cost?

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[topgun2]

Try this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Barker-24130-Auto-Drain-Valve-3/dp/B003VAYMB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529930280&sr=8-1&keywords=barker+auto+drain&dpID=51YLzqVCWEL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

Bill

[John E Davies]

Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Barker-24130-Auto-Drain-Valve-3/dp/B003VAYMB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529930280&sr=8-1&keywords=barker+auto+drain&dpID=51YLzqVCWEL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Bill

Thanks, that is more than I would spend for a little convenience since I have no need for leaving a valve open all the time. Maybe if a cable goes bad, I would consider upgrading to eliminate it. OTH it would be nice to get rid of the nuisance cables in the storage areas. I worry about kinking one. I may just remove my black valve entirely, cap it off and put the it into my spares box in the garage. (And convert the tank to fresh water storage at the same time, two stones with one bird.)

 

John Davies

Spokane WA

[rideandfly]

Anybody done a mod where you can close the basement door while a drain valve handle is pulled? I know it’s best to only drain the tanks when there is water in them so I’m not wanting to open the valve and leave it open. I want to be able to open a valve and then close the basement door when it is raining cats and dogs and the water is pouring off the roof directly onto the open basement door.

Bill

 

Bill,

 

Our basement door will not close with tank valves open on hull #75. Our black tank Valterra 3" valve is bypassing a little when closed. Saw the electric valves when looking for repair parts the other day on the Valterra website, looks interesting.

 

Going to repair Valterra 3" valve for now with parts found on Amazon.

 

That's a nice looking valve Topgun2 found on Amazon!!

 

https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html

[Townesw]

Rideandfly (Bill) our black tank drain valve is not closing well either. It will close if I push down on the gate while Martha is pushing in on the cable. I have put 8 ounces of Camco valve lube and water in the tank twice and slowly worked the valve but it still won’t close. KountryKamper suggested I put enough Ethylene Glycol in the drain to completely saturate the seal and let it set a few days.

[Townesw]

Is the Barker Auto Drain the same one Oliver is offering as a option in place of the manual valve on the bathroom drains?

[ScubaRx]

Most likely the reason your gate valve is not closing completely is because the cable has slipped slightly where it attaches to the vertical slide on the valve.

 

To fix it: loosen the set screw where the cable attaches to the gate valve slide, manually push the gate down to firmly seat it, push the cable handle completely in, tighten the set screw.

 

This will re-adjust the blade where it is completely down when the cable is pushed completely in.

 

Whenever you have to do this process, it is a good idea to lubricate the cable and the inside of the housing also.

 

To lubricant the cable: while the set screw is loose, pull the outside handle to remove the entire cable from the housing. Wipe the cable with a clean rag along its entire length. As you re-insert the cable, spray with a lubricant such as silicone or WD-40. Work the cable back and forth a few times to distribute the lubricant. Tighten the set screw.

 

This process will be a four-handed project. You will have to be inside to guide the cable back into the gate valve while someone outside is easing the handle into place.

 

 

 

 

 

[rideandfly]

The 3" black tank valve bypass problem will be my next project after another project I'm starting tomorrow. Always have a project in progress, would not have it any other way!!!!

[Rumline]

Is the Barker Auto Drain the same one Oliver is offering as a option in place of the manual valve on the bathroom drains?

 

Yes.

[Townesw]

Well I have already hijacked my own thread so I will continue this valve discussion here anyway.

 

Most likely the reason your gate valve is not closing completely is because the cable has slipped slightly where it attaches to the vertical slide on the valve.

 

Steve, this is the first thing I looked at when I first noticed the problem. The handle on the black drain on the cable outside wasn’t in as far as the handle on the grey drain so the cable hasn’t slipped at that set screw. I wonder if the seal is rolled or distorted at the bottom of the gate valve. Before I start taking the valve apart I want to have new seals on hand.

 

Are these the seals that I need?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1003-9VP-Bladex-Valve-Hardware/dp/B00303XGRI

 

Bill

[ScubaRx]

Bill, I have never rebuilt one of these valves but that kit does look like what you would need to do so.

 

On a further note, I believe you stated that you were able to manually push the blade valve down into the seated position. Is that correct? If so, that makes me wonder how that is possible if the gasket is rolled.

 

At any rate, taking the valve apart and rebuilding it is not a bad idea. Hopefully, this will get your problem fixed.

 

Oh yes, make sure you have the black tank completely emptied and clean before taking that valve apart

????

[rideandfly]

Well I have already hijacked my own thread so I will continue this valve discussion here anyway.

ScubaRx wrote:

Most likely the reason your gate valve is not closing completely is because the cable has slipped slightly where it attaches to the vertical slide on the valve.

Steve, this is the first thing I looked at when I first noticed the problem. The handle on the black drain on the cable outside wasn’t in as far as the handle on the grey drain so the cable hasn’t slipped at that set screw. I wonder if the seal is rolled or distorted at the bottom of the gate valve. Before I start taking the valve apart I want to have new seals on hand.

Are these the seals that I need?

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1003-9VP-Bladex-Valve-Hardware/dp/B00303XGRI

Bill

 

 

 

Bill,

 

After finishing a current (Non-Ollie) project, going to work on Ollie's 3" valve next.

 

Already had the following parts on order from Amazon before Steve mentioned how he repaired his valve. Going to try some of Steve's recommendations first and then replace parts if needed.

 

I don't have as much experience with campers equipped with holding tanks like many here. This type of discussion is what I like about forums, I'm learning everyday.

 

Will post information & photos about the following kit when received:

 

http://www.valterra.com/product/waste-valve-body-3-with-coupler-seals-hardware/?pcat_id=1445

 

Also found this video helpful, leaking valve information, seal & valve replacement starts around 3:10:

 

[Townesw]

Rideandfly Bill, Thanks for the info on the kit you got. I have a pair of just the seals on order. I have watched that Valterra video several times especially the part about the seals. Please post pictures when you take yours apart.

 

What is this you speak of: “finishing one project before you start another”? Interesting concept. Might have to try it sometime. ?

 

Another Bill

[rideandfly]

Rideandfly Bill, Thanks for the info on the kit you got. I have a pair of just the seals on order. I have watched that Valterra video several times especially the part about the seals. Please post pictures when you take yours apart.

What is this you speak of: “finishing one project before you start another”? Interesting concept. Might have to try it sometime. ?

Another Bill

 

Let me be completely honest, have two motorcycle builds that are being neglected right now with priority projects :) .  Hope to finish those projects before next April to sell and fund other priority projects. This retirement stuff is busy and I love it!!!   :)

 

Back on the 3" valve discussion, will post photos of parts and project when completed!!! :)

[rideandfly]

Rideandfly Please post pictures when you take yours apart.

Another Bill

 

Just received the Valterra valve from Amazon, it's marked with Valterra's part number tag, but wrong valve. Contacted Valterra and alerted them to the problem. They're sending another valve and correcting the problem, good folks to deal with.

[rideandfly]

Rideandfly Bill, Thanks for the info on the kit you got. I have a pair of just the seals on order. I have watched that Valterra video several times especially the part about the seals. Please post pictures when you take yours apart.

 

What is this you speak of: “finishing one project before you start another”? Interesting concept. Might have to try it sometime. ?

 

Another Bill

 

 

Bill,

 

After adjusting/lubing the 3" black tank valve & cable, it continued to bypass when in the closed position.

 

Replaced blade valve and seals today following Valterra video instructions starting around 3:10.

 

New Valterra 3" black tank valve body and seals:

 

 

Valve located under dinette seat:

 

 

3" Black tank valve on RH side:

 

 

Loosen 3" black tank hose to allow removal of the 3" blade valve:

 

 

Removing cable mounting bracket:

 

 

 

 

3" Valve removed:

 

 

Build up on seal surfaces contacting valve blade causing bypass:

 

 

Silicone lubricant used on seals and blade rod:

 

 

New valve/seals installed and working great:

 

 

https://www.valterra.com/product/waste-valve-body-3-with-coupler-seals-hardware/?pcat_id=1445

 

 

 

[Townesw]

Rideandfly,

 

Thanks for the detailed write up. I knew if I put it off long enough you would get yours done first.? I have the parts on hand and have cleaned the tank out well. I don’t have any more excuses to not get it done now.

 

Moderators: this is one of those write ups that really should be made a “sticky” (not stinky).

 

Another Bill

[rideandfly]

Bill,

 

Used a 1/4" drive 18" extension & socket with ratchet to turn the curb-side bottom bolt. Also taped nut to wrench while threading bolt into bottom curb-side nut, very tight space.  Valterra recommends turning bolt into knurled nut.

 

Just returned home from Colorado and happy :) to report new valve & seals worked great!

 

Another Bill,

[KarenLukens]

Mine seems to have fixed itself for now. It closes completely again and we haven't had any problems with it in a couple of weeks. I went to push down the pin last night again and it was closed again for the second time. It was up 1/2" when stuck but now it's maybe 1/16". I will still be checking the plunger after I dump, but that's just normal routine now ?

 

Reed

[WhatDa]

Anyone done the barker conversion?  I have it wired up, pulled the cable actuator mechanism off, but need to remove the piece that converts from the valve actuation shaft to the cable.  I haven't gotten it to budge and wondering if I just need to get a whole new valve.   (Borrowed the picture and added the circle).

 

[Overland]

I just took a look at the one I pulled out of my trailer, and it looks like that piece is bonded to the shaft with epoxy or something.