Bug Screen for Refrig Vent

[SupersizeLIFE]

I wanted to put bug screens on the vents for the refrigerator. Has anyone else done this? Where did you find the screens? I measure the width at 17" but then when I do an internet search for Dometic Refrig Bug Screens, I get only 2 width options: 8" or 20." The instructions for measuring say: Fits Dometic refrigerator vents which have 20" long louver openings.  So I'm measuring from the outside and the opening is 17."

 

Am I doing something wrong? Any advice would be appreciated. I have considered ordering the 8" and putting two on ever slat but it will be a little short and I suspect those creepy crawlies will find their way in.

[ScubaRx]

I used 1/8" hardware cloth on the inside of the vents on our first Oliver.  Attached it with hot glue.  Worked great, never had any mud daubers or the such.  We've had our second Oliver for over 4 years now, still haven't gotten around to installing some on it.  OTOH I've not had any problems so it keeps slipping  my mind.

 

Anyway, you can buy the hardware cloth at any big box store and cut it to fit. It's probably cheaper and easier than trying to find something pre-made,  if it even exists.

[SeaDawg]

Supersizelife, the camping world site indicates that the 20" vents can be trimmed to fit.

I don't know whose vent Oliver uses.

We've found the Camco products are really great. Their customer service is great, too. You might give them a call to verify.

My sister had the Camco screens installed on her vents. (Not an Oliver). They look great.

Sherry

[SupersizeLIFE]

SeaDawg and ScubaRX,

 

Big thanks for the reply. I didn't think to look at Camping World. I'd thought of trimming but in the photos I was worried I wouldn't be able to get through the metal portion. I'll look into that. I love Camco products also. If it doesn't look like what I want then, for sure, I'll do the DYI one. That would actually make a good blog post!

 

Thanks,

 

Debbie

[OliBadger]

ScubaRx, can you post pictures of your screen? My attempts are an utter failure,but I was trying sticky Velcro and metal screen from a sliding door.

[ScubaRx]

ScubaRx, can you post pictures of your screen? My attempts are an utter failure,but I was trying sticky Velcro and metal screen from a sliding door.

 

That was on our previous Oliver. I doubt I’ve got any pics of that mod. We are on our way to the Boler Rally in Winnipeg. I’m afraid that screen from a door would be too fine meshed and would impede air flow.

 

I formerly used 1/8” hardware cloth. That’s small enough to keep birds and most insects out.

[SeaDawg]

I,too, would be a bit concerned about using window screen.

1/8 inch hardware cloth cuts the airflow to 70 to 80 per cent, depending on the size of the wire.. Fine mesh screen could be as much as 50 per cent...

What it really means is, you would be reducing flow over the fridge working components by a big margin. That can result in higher temps in the fridge, and possible warranty issues.

Just something to keep in mind.

I suspect that the Camco vent screens are somewhere around 1/8. Small enough to keep out mud daubers and mice, hopefully big enough to allow sufficient airflow to the fridge intake and exhaust.

Back in the day, it was recommended to remove any screens installed before asking for warranty service. I'm sure this is why screens are not standard on any trailer....

 

Sherry

[ADKCamper]

We have a 2018 Legacy Elite (I) with the Dometic refrigerator. The upper and lower ventilated access panels seem to be made by Norcold. *So far* I only have experience with installing screens on the lower access panel. I have ordered a screen that *I think* should fit the upper access panel but it has not arrived yet so that fit is not yet confirmed.

 

Lower access panel: Norcold P/N 621156BW (white), Screen: Camco P/N RS600. I had to trim about 3/16" off both ends of each screen, and about 2 rows of wire off the "long, inner/unfinished" edge of the screen for it to fit nicely into the vents in the access panel. Per a similar discussion elsewhere on the forum, I used (4) small cable ties per screen, rather than just (2) as described in the instructions.

 

Upper access panel: Norcold P/N 620505PW (polar white), Screen: Valterra P/N A10-1314VP (Correct fit still to be confirmed. this is a flat, rectangular screen that fits inside the ventilated access panel (rather than the long skinny screens that fit into the actual vents like with the lower access panel). Its supposed to be a no-tool drop-in installation. I found it at eTrailer.

[Trainman]

On my Casita I made all the bug screens from window screening from Home Depot, I did use the metal screening and not the plastic type. I did fold and cut for each vent and when using bathroom calk I did glue each side one at a time, this is the only way I could get them in the proper place and stay there. It took about three days to do the job because each fold had to dry. I'm pretty handy so the job turned out very nice with professional looking results. I will do the same on our new Oliver when we get it in July. Do note here I have not had a problem with cooling the fridge with this type and size of screening. I do check from time to time that the screens are not getting any residue on them, so far none. Remember calking can not be used on all vents, water heater and furnace will require mounting the screen with screws, washers, and nuts, they do get hot.

 

trainman

[Spike]

I’m sure this is why screens are not standard on any trailer

 

I'm thinking that it might be best to risk getting some bugs in there than risk compromising the airflow.

[Patriot]

Has anyone recently had any frig overheating issues with reducing/compromising the airflow after installing screens? I really like the idea of keeping mud dobbers and various critters out just not at the risk of a potential warranty denial because of reduced airflow post screen install. Maybe a good question for Oliver Service folks.
Any thoughts much appreciated.

-Patriot

Edited April 17, 2020 by Patriot

[John E Davies]

Keep in mind you can take these covers off, or just loosen the fasteners and remove them if it is stinky hot outside. It takes a flat screwdriver or a quarter and maybe twenty seconds. 

You could just let the tops hang open a couple of inches, but the risk of driving away and losing them would be much higher than leaving them propped up next to your chocks. If you are moving the fridge will have plenty of airflow.

BTW I unplugged the fridge fan on mine (due to squealing) last year and noticed no performance degradation. You do not want to deal with mud dauber nests plugging the burner, like any service item it would require removal of the fridge. There is almost no outside access to most of the major parts like the burner, cooling fins or fan. Here is another big star for a compressor fridge...

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 17, 2020 by John E Davies

[Trainman]

Pics of my bug screens that is made,  I purchases a mesh screen from Amazon and cut it to fit where it was needed, then I took stainless steel wire and wired the screens in place on the refrigerator vents, the water heater vents screens were installed with stainless steel nuts and bolts. The furnace screen was purchased from Camco. Due note here that window screen material may work, but I found it to be too flexible and I used a stiffer wire mesh for a much better material to work with. It took me a day to do this and I had already done this before on our Casita, so I had some experience in doing this, cutting and fitting will take time to do the job correctly and with a professional look. 

trainman

[John E Davies]

Trainman, that is beautiful work. Do you have an Amazon link to share for the screen? What is the mesh size and is it stainless?

In regards to your water heater screens, I wouldn't hesitate to use a strong adhesive sealant to bond the screen to the inlet side. The outlet side runs much too hot for that.

Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 18, 2020 by John E Davies

[Trainman]

On 5/15/2019 at 10:32 AM, Spike said:

 

I'm thinking that it might be best to risk getting some bugs in there than risk compromising the airflow.

I live in Texas and have camped in over 100 degree weather in our Casita and now our Oliver and my screens have never caused a over heating problem with any of the screens I made and installed. I grantee dirt dobbers with cause you more problems then the screens ever thought of doing.  

trainman

[John E Davies]

I found a source for stainless hardware cloth at Amazon - 2 sq ft of  1/8” mesh with 0.024” (0.6 mm) wire, with 60% flow rate, for $23 and free shipping.

https://smile.amazon.com/Woven-Wire-8-Mesh-12-X24-30cm-X60cm-x2-5mm-Beekeeping-Varoa-Varroa-Apiary-Steel-60-Open-Area/dp/B01N7VKM8G/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

My wonderful local specialty metals supplier has the same stuff but with heavier 0.028” wire for about the same price. Some suppliers offer it in finer sizes but I do not think they would sell a small quantity....  I think the Amazon cloth is a better choice for an Ollie owner, unless somebody knows of a better source for a finer wire product.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

Edited April 19, 2020 by John E Davies

[Patriot]

Yes indeed very nice work Trainman it looks better than factory. Thank you for the photos a real plus. I have read others have used hot glue or silicone to secure the screens. I like your idea of a SS wire install since you can remove the screen much easier if need be and it’s just a very seamless clean finish. Well done.

John Davies thank you for the link to the S/S screen - ordered!

-Patriot

Edited April 19, 2020 by Patriot

[Trainman]

22 hours ago, John E Davies said:

Trainman, that is beautiful work. Do you have an Amazon link to share for the screen? What is the mesh size and is it stainless?

In regards to your water heater screens, I wouldn't hesitate to use a strong adhesive sealant to bond the screen to the inlet side. The outlet side runs much too hot for that.

Thanks.

John Davies

Spokane WA

John, I couldn't find the exact item I purchased on Amazon, it was two years ago, it was a two pack, 22"x22" and 12 holes per inch, stainless, nice stiffness to work with and I cut it with tin snips. This is as close as I could find, https://www.amazon.com/Woven-X60cm-Coarse-gauze-Stainless/dp/B01N4RCHFU/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?crid=2TB5WP8VAGXPQ&cv_ct_cx=stainless+wire+mesh&dchild=1&keywords=stainless+wire+mesh&pd_rd_i=B01N4RCHFU&pd_rd_r=0747b075-0572-49a2-b5ac-03427d1b9482&pd_rd_w=3kc4Q&pd_rd_wg=HcgJq&pf_rd_p=183579a1-f0e6-4556-8e39-8fe08e8f8141&pf_rd_r=Z1JE72FRXHZTFB9QNK7T&psc=1&qid=1587303256&sprefix=stanless+wire+mesh%2Caps%2C179&sr=1-131-dd5817a1-1ba7-46c2-8996-f96e7b0f409c  due note here this material is 10 holes per inch, but I did measure mine and the hole openings are right at 2mm. Make sure you get material that is long enough to cover the longest opening on your refrigerator vents, I didn't want to piece mine together. I did think about using an adhesive on the heater screens, but just went with the stainless NBW's as I have a good selection of them. I did also make a totally different system to attach the Camco screen to the furnace, I just didn't like dealing with those springs, and went with my own design which will screw on and off. 

trainman

[John E Davies]

Thanks Trainman, I think either the 8 or the 10 mesh would be perfectly fine, both have about the same airflow, the only difference being the actual hole size. I do wish there was a source for this mesh with a 0.18” to 0.20” wire.... for ease of cutting and bending, mainly.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Edited April 19, 2020 by John E Davies

[NCeagle]

On 4/19/2020 at 10:20 AM, Trainman said:

I did also make a totally different system to attach the Camco screen to the furnace, I just didn't like dealing with those springs, and went with my own design which will screw on and off. 

I've been struggling (thinking too much) about how to attach the Camco furnace screen.  The springs simply don't work as you mentioned.  Looks like you fabricated a brace to connect to the screws holding the furnace cover on and then connected the screen to the braces?  Tough to see what you did in the picture, but I'm sure interested!  Thanks!

[Patriot]

On 3/12/2021 at 5:35 AM, NCeagle said:

I've been struggling (thinking too much) about how to attach the Camco furnace screen.  The springs simply don't work as you mentioned.  Looks like you fabricated a brace to connect to the screws holding the furnace cover on and then connected the screen to the braces?  Tough to see what you did in the picture, but I'm sure interested!  Thanks!

NCeagle - I used four pieces of fine SS wire. Looped it through the screen back out to a fastening point on the screen twisted it together snug and snipped the excess wire. Done. You would have to look hard to see the wire.

Edited March 13, 2021 by Patriot

[Trainman]

I took four brackets that I purchased at a hobby shop that sells model airplane stuff, although any strip brass or metal should work. I bent the ends at a 90 degree angle, one to the right and one to the left and drilled holes there the put the screws through.  On the inner part of the bracket I just removed the factor screws and mounted the brackets, on the other end I used JB Weld and glued nuts to the brackets, then I had some 4-40 screws that were looped on the ends and I just hand tighten them through the screen to tighten up the screen grill. I know this sounds like a lot of work, but I found it rather easy to do as I'm a hobby modeler and it was just another project. So far it has not come loose in the two years it has been on there. Here is a pic, it should show what I have done, any questions just ask. Other grills done with mesh wire I got from Amazon and cut to fit. 

trainman