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Just starting to do my homework on ordering a new oliver. This is all new territory for me. Question...Do the sway bars limit turning radius? If so, can you disconnect and turn sharper. Tow vehicle is a 3500 duramax long bed. From what i read, fishtailing can happen with any vehicle.

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Greetings Mark,

 

With a 3500 truck (or a 2500 for that matter), there is no need at all for the Anderson WDH setup.

Save your money and simplify your setup. Your truck will be a very capable TV for the Ollie all by itself.

 

Folks that do have the Anderson WDH will be able to answer your specific questions about turning radius and all if you are unswayed!

 

Dave

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2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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Dave - I really do like the "unswayed" part!

 

MarkC -

 

Dave is correct about your tow vehicle - the Andersen would not be required.  However, to specifically answer your question: from a practical point of view the answer is no, it would not limit your turning radius.  From a theoretical point of view I would think the answer would be yes it would limit turning radius.  But, by the time you got to that point you would already be in relatively dire straights.

 

Does this help you?

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Agree with what’s been said. The Andersen is a good piece of kit for half ton or smaller trucks. Doesn’t limit maneuverability and helps level the load and provide sway control. But for a 3500 I would think it is unnecessary. I’m thinking of upgrading to a 3/4 ton next year and will tow without my Andersen. Mike

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Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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Welcome to the forum!

 

Yep, I agree 100% with all the comments. All you need is a cheap ball mount with the correct amount of rise and a 7500 pound rated 2” ball. Maybe add a set of big gravel guards (Rock Tamers or similar) if you venture off pavement. This is a light, cheap, simple setup that is perfect for towing either Ollie behind your HD truck.

 

I have never heard of a single owner having sway problems. It might possibly happen if you had the trailer’s butt overloaded with bikes and no weight on the tongue, if you had a marginal short wheel base light duty tow vehicle. With your big heavy LWB truck, you would have absolutely zero problems. Hook up and go, no worries. This setup was on my ‘06 Ram 3500 Quad Cab 4wd.

 

FB146096-1FBA-42DF-9203-2B08CEA0C333.thumb.jpeg.272592dc2b7dd40d0a216fcf6014a591.jpeg

 

BTW I like the long shank ball that is intended for mounting directly through some factory bumpers. You can add Grade 8 washers and shift them around if needed to fine tune the height.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Hi Mark, I agree with all the above statements on your need for an Anderson hitch, the elite 2 is a very well balanced trailer and under most circumstances will not sway, however, “any” trailer can be induced to sway. Most weight distribution hitches have sway control built in, that’s a proactive system designed to prevent sway from occurring and you really shouldn’t need it with a 3/4 ton truck and either Oliver. The other approach to address sway is reactive, it uses the application of your trailer brakes to control the sway, that is achieved by manually applying “only”your trailer brakes with the switch on your brake controller, there are systems out there that do that automatically, the Hayes sway master is one of those, and some new pickups have built in sway control, but i’m not familiar with how they work.

 

While I haven’t experienced any sway with my elite 2, I went with the Hayes swaymaster, Just for the added safety factor, and for approximately 2 years and 26,000 miles i’m very happy with its performance.

 

Steve

 

 

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STEVEnBETTY

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While I haven’t experienced any sway with my elite 2, I went with the Hayes swaymaster, Just for the added safety factor, and for approximately 2 years and 26,000 miles i’m very happy with its performance.

Steve, I’m glad you are happy with that safety aid, but other than your extra peace of mind on gusty days, is there some other benefit? I am a bit hazy about how you can even be aware of  its performance when the trailer doesn’t need it. Have you tried “before and after” tow comparison tests?

 

Thanks.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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John, to answer your question, I did do a before and after comparison. As you probably know you can induce a trailer to sway just by making an abrupt maneuver such as changing lanes quickly, a well balanced trailer will sway, and then settle back down or self correct. The swaymaster uses gps to determine your speed and an internal gyroscope to detect motion, the system is inactive until 45mph, at that point the gyroscope takes over and applies the trailer brakes if you make an abrupt maneuver, I have been able to get it to activate intentionally and accidentally, it worked just as they say it will. I won’t use the system on snow or ice covered roads however, preferring to be able to modulate the brakes myself in that situation. Nothing really works on icy roads, since i’m retired now I no longer have to drive on them, so I don’t, I’ll just wait the storm out.

 

Steve

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STEVEnBETTY

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I really wanted to pull our new Elite II without the Anderson, but since my toe vehicle described below is right on the borderline of needing one or not, I have decided to go with one. Too many on this forum said get it, so I got it.

 

 

 

trainman

Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears.

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I really wanted to pull our new Elite II without the Anderson, but since my toe vehicle described below is right on the borderline of needing one or not, I have decided to go with one. Too many on this forum said get it, so I got it.

 

trainman

 

I’ve got the same truck, same specs and use the Andersen. No issues. Mike

Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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I agree with Mike on the Andersen.  However, late last year I was having increasing difficulty in getting the pin holding the "whale-tail" both in and out.  Not being the brightest bulb, it took me way longer than it should have to figure out that all I needed was a very small amount of lube on that pin.  Now everything is back to normal.

 

Bill

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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I got my Anderson yesterday and will be taking it with us when we pickup the trailer. Not knowing if Oliver will install it as it was not purchased from them, I will take what tools I need with me to do the install myself if they won't. Today I purchase the extra chain I will need and quick links for the install, plus I did purchase a different pin, the type with a handle to make it easier to remove from the "whale-tail" as some call it. As far as some have mentioned about backing up, my biggest concern is that I can keep the "whale-tail" in the correct possession when I'm ready to unhook, I think I will unhook when the "whale-tail" is inline and them back up where I want to park the trailer. I think this is just another step I would rather not do, but I don't see and easier way to do it, is there other ways to end up with the "whale-tail" in the correct possession and alignment I would like to hear for you, thanks.

 

 

 

trainman

Elite II, Twin Bed, Hull #489, 2019 RAM 1500, 5.7 Hemi, 4X4, Crew Cab, 5'7" bed, Towing Package, 3.92 Gears.

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trainman -

 

If you have not already done so, it would be good for you to watch the following Andersen video which covers the topic:

 

 

I have found that it rarely is a "problem".  However, via experience, when in situations where I think that getting back to the same angle/alignment that I had when I unhooked, I'll simply take a couple of rocks or sticks and place one by each of my driver's side tires.  This way I have something concrete (versus my memory) to guide me back into the "correct" vehicle position when I'm ready to hook back up.

 

Bill

2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Trainman:

 

Since you have the newer Anderson WDH there is no issue when reconnecting your tow vehicle to the trailer.  For any reason that you can not reconnect the  “whale-tail”, just raise the trailer ball coupler so it is not touching the trailer ball.  Then insert the pin that holds the  “whale-tail” in position, then you can turn the trailer ball so the  “whale-tail” can be connected.  I could not do this with our original Anderson  “whale-tail”, but a couple of years ago Anderson came out with an ungraded ball and  “whale-tail” assembly that you could purchase of a small fee.  Every since I replaced the complete assembly it has made it very easy to connect the  “whale-tail” at any angle.

 

You can not move the trailer ball with the  “whale-tail” connector pin if the trailer is attached; just be sure the trailer is off the trailer ball completely.  I have used this method many times when reconnecting the trailer and tow vehicle.

 

 

Horace & Dianne

Chesapeake, Virginia

2016 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 4x4 Limited

2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull # 93

 

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