PD-5100 Automatic Transfer Relay - Loose connectors

[Wayfinder]

During my full-time adventure, I discovered this in the Progressive Dynamics ATR.  I was not happy to see that the two connector screws indicated in picture were VERY VERY loose.  Had to turn several times to snug them up good.  Now I need either a new ATR, or at least figure out how best to change those two half-melted wires.  The busbar plate, or ledge (black), is secured to the box with two rivets. 

Has anyone ever see this before?

Also, while looking closely, I noticed the front 30 AMP receptacle on the trailer is not protected by the EMS, only the driver-side 30 AMP connector is protected by the EMS.  

Any thoughts or teachings on the differences between the two 30 AMP receptacles?

Thanks,

[dewdev]

Since these wires were loose it caused a build-up of heat which may have caused the melting.

Is the copper leads melted or just the insulation that is around the copper leads?

If just the insulation is melted (which it looks like in your picture), you can purchase a can of rubberized (paint-on) electrical coating material which comes in a can with a brush attached to the cover. Just disconnect the wires, move them so you can get at each side and put the new rubberized coating on the damaged part of the wires.

If the copper is melted, then you are probably correct that they need replacement. 

[Wayfinder]

Wires looked okay when I pulled them out from connectors to inspect, just dark colored, but no melting at all.

[Steph and Dud B]

Several turns doesn't sound like they just wiggled loose. Hate to see sloppy work on 120v electrical systems. That, and propane, really need to be done right.  Interesting that the front receptacle is not protected by the EMS. I suppose that's OK of you're only feeding it with a generator? Haven't people had trouble with the EMS balking at generator power, it was that just because there was no ground bonding plug installed?

[Rivernerd]

On 12/18/2021 at 2:55 PM, dewdev said:

If just the insulation is melted (which it looks like in your picture), you can purchase a can of rubberized (paint-on) electrical coating material which comes in a can with a brush attached to the cover.

I have had good results with this Gardner-Bender Liquid Tape product:

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-07315001126-LTB-400-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K/ref=asc_df_B000FPAN2K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198096571354&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10257715978080992862&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-350654169801&psc=1

 

[dewdev]

On 12/18/2021 at 5:50 PM, Steph and Dud B said:

Several turns doesn't sound like they just wiggled loose. Hate to see sloppy work on 120v electrical systems. That, and propane, really need to be done right.  Interesting that the front receptacle is not protected by the EMS. I suppose that's OK of you're only feeding it with a generator? Haven't people had trouble with the EMS balking at generator power, it was that just because there was no ground bonding plug installed?

Yes, based on these forms, it was only the  ground bonding plug needing to be installed.