I think we have an Electrical Issue coming from the Power Control Center

[Alberta and Randy]

2015 LE2 Hull 67

This story is evolving as we continue to remember and put together things that happened during and after the Rally.  I'll try to distill the story to the essentials.

1. During rally went to charge phones on the 120v a/c plugs and they didn't appear to be working.  Tried resetting the GFCI under dinette, no results.  Opened the control panel under dinette and the 15amp circuit breaker was flipped to off. Didn't think anything of it at the time.  We were plugged into a 30amp post at the site.

2. After getting home, plugging the trailer in, and unloading the Ollie went back out later and the CO2/LP alarm was goiing off.  The LP light was flashing red.  Hit reset, double checked the propane tanks were off (they were), tried to light the stove top to bleed out any potential propane in the lines (none).  Alarm came back on couple more times. Back of the alarm has red date stamped of Oct 11 2019. Not sure if this is a creation date or expiration date.  Guessing creation.

3.  Went out to trailer little bit later to do/check something and heard this buzzing sound (first time), like something was humming from being on.  Tracked it down to the Power Dynamics Power Control Center PD4045KA under the dinette, and next to the CO2/LP alarm. It was hot in the trailer, those 90 degree days.

4.  Took the panel cover off of PCC and nothing looked unusual or suspicious.  The only odd behavior was when we flipped the 2nd from the end 15amp breaker to the off position, the fan started to spin a little and then stopped.  That is a consistent movement when we flip that breaker to the off position.

5.  We've read the thread on "Buzzing noise from under dinette" which was very helpful.  Uncertain if we have a bad fan issue or a bad board issue or other. The buzzing stopped at some point and haven't heard it again.  Concerned this is the beginning of an issue we really want to resolve before more travel.

We welcome input from all as to what the issue might be, things to check, or questions to ask Progressive Dynamics. We have not yet called them.

Thanks much!

[Dave and Dana]

I can only address the CO/LP Detector issue.  Do you have an "RV Safe" brand detector?

I am in the process of replacing a defective detector, as mine recently started sounding and flashing, with no CO or Propane issue. 

If you have an RV Safe brand detector, if it is the same model as mine, a "FLASHING" red light indicates CO high, not Propane.

Dave

 

[topgun2]

I would guess that the two issues are not related other than possibly being hot in the trailer.

My CO/propane  detector will get very sensitive when the camper is hot and/or if there has been a thunder storm (ozone probably).  More than likely the date on the back is the "start date" from which the countdown begins to its expiration date (most likely 5 years).  However, my Ollie is a 2017 and I'm presently on my third co/propane alarm.

With regards to the "buzz" under the dinette - the first thing I'd do is blow that dust out of that area.  The dust makes things work hotter and is generally not good for electrical items.  Of course I assume that you were plugged into shore power.  If that is correct then the charger converter could have been charging the batteries and that could have cause the buzz.  Obviously you can test this possibility by drawing down the batteries, making sure that your solar is off and then plug into shore power in order to get the converter to start doing its thing.

Good luck!

Bill

[SeaDawg]

In our much older trailer, the pd charger makes a bit of noise when the fan is running,  which it does more often with higher ambient temps. 

I'd suggest you take the cushions and  seat lids out and see if you can determine where the noise is actually coming from. It may simply be normal.  Maybe not. Your ears can tell us a lot.

[John E Davies]

None of the two electronics compartments are vented in any way. They trap heat. This is bad because it stresses the units installed there, makes them operate unnecessarily hot (at or outside their operating limits) and can greatly shorten their life spans. Simply put is a stupid engineering design. Especially for those blistering summer days when the street side of the trailer is facing full sunlight. Consider adding vents and/ or a circulation fan to get some airflow. The down side is that you will hear the converter and inverter fans running but they should not run as  often or as fast. I would not be at all surprised if your converter has failed. It is an easy repair, you should buy the “lithium compatible” version so you can upgrade the batteries in the future more easily. (And they will also need proper cooling.)

FYI the converter has both vents and exhaust openings in the outside, but they don’t do anything to remove heat from inside the compartment. The inverter is fully trapped and does not get any cool airflow at all. Running it hard in summer is like having a small box heater going in there😳

John Davies

Spokane WA

[hobo]

Related/Unrelated:  I would STRONGLY encourage anyone with a transfer switch (box under rear dinette seat) to occasionally (maybe annually) open it up and check the tightness of all the connections.  (BTW: ONLY APPLICABLE TO TRAILERS THAT HAVE THE OPTIONAL 30 AMP RV RECEPTACLE ON THE FRONT). These connections within the plastic box, if loose, can and will cause extreme heat and potential fire hazard.  I speak from experience.  BEFORE DOING THIS; DISCONNECT ALL SHORE POWER!

[mossemi]

Alberta and Randy,

I would like to thank you for your excellent post.  You described your issue and explained the things that you had tried while troubleshooting.  You also provided information about your Oliver in your signature such as model and the year it was built.  It is difficult to provide accurate answers to those requesting help with limited information.  This is especially true in a non verbal conversation such as an email or a post online.

You have provided an excellent example for others to follow when requesting help on this forum.

Mossey

 

[Trainman]

The CO/LP Detector issue is something that most of us seem to have from time to time, or I do. It can just go off for no reason that I can find, but I'm sure there was something there to set it off, all being said I reset it and till the next time, which could be the next day, or months down the road. I did have to have Oliver Service send me a new Power Controller (the surge protector module, not the unit with the breakers and fuses module) under warranty as mine just would not stay set, or would work for a short time 10-15 minuets and then kickoff and reset. A new one took care of the problem and so far, so good.  

trainman