Question of the Day

[topgun2]

Basically what Mike says above, but, there are a number of ways to handle the grey tank.

I think that most people leave the grey tank closed in addition to leaving the black tank closed.  This is because similar to the black tank, the grey tank can get hair, sand, dirt, food particles, etc. in it.  Thus, just like the black tank where the "force" of the water is used to move "solids" along, this same force can be used in the grey to help clean out whatever is in both the grey tank and the hose after you have used it to dump the black tank.

Another "hint" - when dumping - dump a small bit of the grey tank first (only a gallon or two is necessary).  This will help "lubricate" the hose so that the black tank stuff will flow more smoothly down the hose.  Once the black tank is empty, close that black tank valve and open the grey to dump the rest of it out and at the same time help to "flush" the hose "clean" of whatever the black tank may have left in there.

Bill

[Steve Morris]

Thanks Mike and Bill! I knew about flushing with gray after, but I never thought to allow some through first to wet the drain hose. Great tip! Nor had I thought about "stuff" accumulating in the gray tank. We plan to avoid as much food particles and grease going down the drain as possible. Kitchen traps smell worse than bathroom traps!

 

Thanks again for the wise counsel!

[Steve Morris]

I already carry a pretty comprehensive tool kit in my truck, but it is all metric. Considering that the Oliver has a lot of components from US and international sources, I'm guessing that I'll need to add some imperial sizes, too?

One item that I don't own is a set of security Torx drivers (the type with the hole for the tiny pin sticking up inside the screw's opening.) Are there any used on the Oliver?

Any other specialty tools that I might need specific to a travel trailer?

Thanks!

[Steph and Dud B]

2 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

Any other specialty tools that I might need specific to a travel trailer?

There's a 1/2" hex wrench for the exterior water hose fittings. I bought this one, but it's not currently available: Bondhus 12116 1/2" Long Hex L-Wrench https://a.co/d/6MCI0Jf

I also find a spring hook can be handy in many situations, not just for springs.

[Steve Morris]

4 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

There's a 1/2" hex wrench for the exterior water hose fittings. I bought this one, but it's not currently available: Bondhus 12116 1/2" Long Hex L-Wrench https://a.co/d/6MCI0Jf

I also find a spring hook can be handy in many situations, not just for springs.

Thanks! I definitely do not have a 1/2" Allen wrench! On the shopping list that goes. As for spring hooks, yep! Having motor scooters, small engine maintenance, and vehicles with drum brakes, these are always in the kit.

Thank you

 

EDIT: Does the 1/2" Allen wrench need to be a typical "L" shape? Or can I use one for a ratchet? I only have those up to3/8", but might be more versatile than the "L" type.

 

[Steph and Dud B]

6 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

Does the 1/2" Allen wrench need to be a typical "L" shape? Or can I use one for a ratchet?

Doesn't matter. It's a very low torque application.

[Steve Morris]

Could someone with an EII handy, please check this measurement? @DebM found a sale on some stick-on backsplash she likes.

I'm estimating 44-46" based on the sink, burner, and distance between them shown in the Oliver Dimensions PDF.

Thank you!

 

[Rivernerd]

46" to aft end of backsplash.  46 3/4" to aft end of countertop.

[mossemi]

On 2/20/2023 at 11:35 PM, Steph and Dud B said:

Does the 1/2" Allen wrench need to be a typical "L" shape?

 

 5/16" bolts have a 1/2" head.  Put a couple of nuts on the threaded end, using 1 as a stop nut for the 2nd one and use an open end wrench.

Mossey

[Steve Morris]

2 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

46" to aft end of backsplash.  46 3/4" to aft end of countertop.

Thank you!

[Steve Morris]

2 hours ago, mossemi said:

 5/16" bolts have a 1/2" head.  Put a couple of nuts on the threaded end, using 1 as a stop nut for the 2nd one and use an open end wrench.

Of course! Retired 13 years, and already stopped using my engineering brain...

Thanks!

[SeaDawg]

Engineer's wife says you never stop, just temporarily suspend .

Have a great time. Camping experiences have been some of the best, in our lives .

Usually,  no engineering required. Just time to have fun. 

 

[Steve Morris]

Here's an easy one: I take delivery and finish my two nights at Camp Oliver and two nights at David Crockett State Park. Let's say it is freezing at home, and I need to winterize. I understand the process of doing that. But what about the water in the fresh water tank? Do I simply drain it there at my last camp site? That seems the logical move, but if everyone did that, especially those like my brother who have 140 gallon water tanks, it would be a muddy mess around the camp site. 

Then, I thought draining it while dumping the gray and fresh tanks. But from what I read, it takes a while to drain, and I don't want to hold people up. What's the proper fresh tank draining etiquette? (See how easy it is to spot the guy who's never had a trailer with plumbing before? 😀 )

Thanks!

[mossemi]

44 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

Here's an easy one:

I like easy, so here goes!  I was born and raised in Florida and know enough to stay there in the winter, so that is the reason I have never had to winterize.  But I do sanitize my freshwater tank and when I do drain it, I tilt the trailer to the curb side which is were the drain pipe exits the freshwater tank and I remove the outside shower head, turn the shower on and insert the hose into a piece of PVC pipe to move the water away from the trailer when I am at home.  You could run it into your drain hose if your campsite has a sewer connection.  And I wouldn’t have any qualms with opening the freshwater drain and driving down the road if the weather cooperates.  I often dump my freshwater during the last few hours of driving home.  That probably wouldn’t work in freezing weather.  On the other hand it may be safer to have a 1/2 of tank of water, which would be less likely to freeze.

Mossey

[Steve Morris]

Yesterday, I was rooting around behind the wall in the attic, looking at a location for my cellular router. What a rat's nest of wires!

Any idea what the two tan wires with nothing connected are for? I'm guessing they are one of the options I didn't get, which would be the wifi and cellular boosters or Cradlepoint cellular.

I haven't checked to see it they have power, and if so, if and where they're switched.

 

[mossemi]

21 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

Any idea what the two tan wires with nothing connected are for?

My 2017 LE2 manual indicates that the tan wires are for the camera system.  Since I don’t know how you Ollie is equipped it’s the best I can do.  My rear camera switch is at the entrance and I have an unused tan wire in the wiring/switch access port in the upper cabinet above the microwave that is routed up into the area above the entrance and heading toward the bathroom where the front camera option was located when it was offered.

Mossey

[Steve Morris]

Ah, the manual! What a novel idea! 🙂 I do have the rear camera installed from the factory, so it isn't that.

I hadn't read that a front camera was previously an option. That would sure be handy without having a front window. I've considered adding  a cheap camera mounted to the awning bracket to keep an eye on things while camped.

High of 42° F here today, with possible snow overnight. I'll wait a few days to see if I can figure out where they go.

 

Thanks!

[Steve Morris]

A quick question for anyone who has mounted something in this area. I'm about to mount my Sirocco fans, and gathering hardware. I need to get some #6 screws to mount the base to the fiberglass, and need to determine a length.

How thick is the fiberglass in the area where @John E Davies mounted the fan?

Thanks!

[KenB]

25 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

A quick question for anyone who has mounted something in this area. I'm about to mount my Sirocco fans, and gathering hardware. I need to get some #6 screws to mount the base to the fiberglass, and need to determine a length.

How thick is the fiberglass in the area where @John E Davies mounted the fan?

I've installed these fans too, but don't remember how long the machine screws were.  I think you can look at the back of the speakers and can see approximately how thick the fiberglass is in this area.  You can get to the speakers when you remover the access panels in the attic.  You'll have to do that for the job anyway.

[SeaDawg]

@John E Davies posted a very complete guide to installation here:

 

[Steve Morris]

24 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

@John E Davies posted a very complete guide to installation here:

Yep, and I've read through that a couple of times. I'm not going the separate base route, just through the fiberglass. John doesn't say how long the screws were or how thick the material.

Thanks, @KenB I have the hinged door off and left side panel out. I didn't have my light to see the speaker opening. Good, idea!

I'll be adding a Blue Sea fuse panel, with the input coming from the current 12V socket, and outputs to:

• 2 Sirocco fans
• Alexa Echo Dot
• Apple TV (eventually, currently 120V)
• the 12V socket
• Pepwave cellular router