Upgraded Fan w/LED in HEAD...

[Mike and Carol]

5 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

Congrats!  How do y'all like the LED in there?  Got some pix of your new mod?  Just curious, Mike...  Cheers!

The LED light looks like it will be good.  We’ll test it out on our next trip coming up fast!

 

This is before the rain shield.

After rain shield.

[MAX Burner]

Sweet!  Very clean install, Mike!

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:

Sweet!  Very clean install, Mike!

I think there were a total of 14 holes drilled in the top and 4 holes drilled in the ceiling of the bath.  Measure twice (or more!) and drill once.  Mike

[MAX Burner]

11 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

Measure twice (or more!) and drill once.  Mike

Always! HA!

[jd1923]

On 9/1/2023 at 5:55 PM, Mike and Carol said:

I think there were a total of 14 holes drilled in the top and 4 holes drilled in the ceiling of the bath.  Measure twice (or more!) and drill once.  Mike

For those not wanting to drill so many holes on your future installs, I strongly suggest using 3M VHB tapes (use only 3M brand tapes). 3M model 4950 is white, just over 1mm thick, and comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" widths. The 1/2" should be perfect for this fan. Clean surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Cut several 1" lengths and position them around the perimeter of the fan where it contacts the roof. The rain guard would only need a few pieces of tape. No butyl tape on this install, finish with a bead of white silicone caulk around the fan. I do not suggest caulking the rain guard, in fact I might not install the rain guard, as I believe this part is intended for wall mounting (solid on top and vented below). Amazon.com: 3M - 1/2-5-4950 VHB 4950 Heavy Duty Mounting Tape - 0.5 in. x 15 ft. Permanent Bonding Tape Roll with Acrylic Foam Core. Tapes and Adhesives : Industrial & Scientific

VHB tape is way, WAY STRONGER than any kind of screws into fiberglass. I used this tape to connect the solar panel brackets to fiberglass roof on my old Bigfoot Class-C, with no screws at all. These large panels were very heavy, and never failed. I did use double mounting brackets (8/panel vs. the standard 4), given the size of the panels. Overlap Shear Strength of the 4950 tape is 80 lb./in², which is a whole lot of pressure. Your fan and rain guard will hold strong, I promise!

Thanks @SeaDawg and @MAX Burner as I used your links and just purchased one for a future install. When I get around to this job, end of a very long list, I'll post the 3M VHB installation version!

[jd1923]

Received our Maxx Air Fan 6" Dome w LED from Amazon today. Got lucky again with Amazon used. Fan for $69 plus tax, yes packaging well damaged, but all parts included and cosmetically new. Tested the fan and LED light with my shop 12V marine battery and again all good. The product included all parts, rain guard, 6" ceiling extension, and everything you need.

Earlier I suggested using 3M VHB tape and this will work on the exterior portion for sure. However, there is such a perfect flat surface, round around the external perimeter, OMG TG they do not have holes predrilled here! I'm thinking, if I can source a quality waterproof exterior glue/sealer instead of tape, I would apply a full-circle bead of glue to set this piece. If this was done, you would not have to caulk. Just apply and position in place and you're done! (again, no screws).

The rain guard was included but will not be used. This is unnecessary, given the fan is installed and sealed correctly. This is designed for a wall-mounted installation. On an RV/TT you would need one with no vents to help somewhat. Put the solid portion up top and it may help when parked. Put it up front, and it my help when driving at highway speed, either way unnecessary.

The interior portion is a bit trickier! there is not a full circle flat surface. There is an inner flat portion that goes 90% around the circle, and if that will contact the ceiling surface, you're good with VHB tape. You would have open screw openings on the fan surround on your wet bath ceiling. You could find 4 white plugs. Or if needed mount the 4 screws interior, which cannot cause a leaking situation, as the interior is merely cosmetic, holding the trim ring and LED light. Hope this helps!

[Geronimo John]

On 9/29/2023 at 12:01 PM, jd1923 said:

I do not suggest caulking the rain guard, in fact I might not install the rain guard, as I believe this part is intended for wall mounting (solid on top and vented below).

We camp amoung lots of trees and kind of like the idea of the rain guard as a small bit of protection as well.  

GJ

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

We camp among lots of trees and kind of like the idea of the rain guard as a small bit of protection as well.  GJ

Now you are going to have to get up there to remove the leaves from the guard! 🤣 A lot more drill holes. I prefer to practice "less is more" but your install looks great!

[johnwen]

On 5/29/2023 at 1:49 PM, MAX Burner said:

carefully pre-drilled/chamfered 8 new holes in exterior gelcoat

MAX Burner,

This will be my first time to drill on my Ollie...did you have your drill in reverse during the drilling or does it make a difference?

Thanks,

John

[SeaDawg]

It's not a big deal. We did this years ago. It's  a terrific upgrade. Just do it. You'll be very happy. So nice to have an overhead light in the bath.

We used butyl tape. Drilled small pilot holes. Once you've drilled a few, not so scary. 

Read the whole thread. Lots of great advice, from a number of installs.

Edited March 24 by SeaDawg

[Mike and Carol]

9 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

It's not a big deal. We did this years ago. It's  a terrific upgrade. Just do it. You'll be very happy. So nice to have an overhead light in the bath.

We used butyl tape. Drilled small pilot holes. Once you've drilled a few, not so scary. 

Read the whole thread. Lots of great advice, from a number of installs.

Measure twice, drill once.  😁

[MAX Burner]

11 hours ago, johnwen said:

did you have your drill in reverse during the drilling or does it make a difference?

Nope.  Marked the holes with a sharpie, then hit the marks with a "spring punch" (this forms a small indent in the gelcoat which keeps the drill bit from walking off target), then drill.  No biggie.  Post your efforts to share your experience...  Have fun with it!

[Steph and Dud B]

Couple of questions for y`all. Did anyone countersink the drill holes? Think I read somewhere using a countersink bit helps prevent gelcoat cracking. Also, how much lower does the light bezel hang than the original? I'm pretty close to the ceiling in there as it is. Thanks. 

[MAX Burner]

8 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

Did anyone countersink the drill holes?

Yes, we used a countersink bit...  The bezel hangs about an 1" from the overhead:

Hope this helps out...

[SeaDawg]

I think it's,  the same, or a little better. The pull handle is inset further than our original ventline.

That said, our ventline was a 2008. And, our Maxx dome install was probably 4 years ago .

We do so love the overhead light. My husband is just under 6'. For reference. It's been all good.

 

 

 

[SeaDawg]

We drilled smaller diameter pilot holes, as we always do. You can try the blue tape thing, I guess, though we've never done it.

Pilot, followed by bigger hole. If you use butyl, all the holes will self seal. (We sealed old holes with epoxy)

I know it's intimidating at first. But, it's not that bad.

I'd guess total install time was two hours, or less. One on roof, one inside.

We did "build up" a bit with butyl tape, if I remember correctly,  for the slight incline, front to back of the hull..

Love the light. Also, make sure you read instructions for drainage hole placement. 

 

Edited April 8 by SeaDawg
Spelling

[jd1923]

Slow speed on the cordless drill, holding straight, even constant pressure. Never had fancy drill bits in all my years, since every repair is a one-off (unless you run a woodshop). Go for it! ☺️  

[johnwen]

This question has probably been asked many times but I'll go ahead with it anyway ...  is it possible to leave the outside of the unit mounted as is, forego the rain guard and merely replace the "guts" (inside mechanism with led light), rewire, replace handle and trim, and be done?  The units seem basically the same construction.  That way no reseal and drilling on the outside hull.  Maybe a call to the manufacturer will reveal some good news.  Then again???....I'm prepared either way  :)

John

[SeaDawg]

We replaced the entire unit, and never looked back. The seal was broken on the old fan. It wasn't a huge job, and could have been done from a scaffold or ladder, on the outside, with longer arms than mine.

The release mechanism, and bezel, on the inside are different,  so my answer would be, I don't think so. Get the new fan, enjoy the overhead light, and don't look back.

I think, personally,  this should be an upgrade offered by Oliver. It's not a huge price difference,  but I do so love an overhead light, and a fuse that can be replaced without tearing the fan apart. 

I was concerned several years ago, when we changed it out, that fan noise would increase over time. It hasn't,  at least for us. 

Edited April 7 by SeaDawg

[Mike and Carol]

2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We replaced the entire unit, and never looked back.

Same here.  Not difficult to swap out.  The light is nice.  I think you’d be fine without the rain guard.  Mike