Electrical Outlets Not Working

[MobileJoy]

8 hours ago, Cort said:

I'm almost almost always boondocking.

Of the two inverters discussed above, I prefer the Freedom series. This one can be programmed for most battery types, and it performs automatic switching to your AC circuitry between inverted power and shore power. It is designed to be wired to your AC system where the PROWatt provides AC outlets instead. In your case, there must already be a battery charger in your trailer. Many contributors on the Forum have said that they don't like the combined inverter/charger (Xantrex Freedom) and would have preferred these to be separate to eliminate a single point of failure. You can probably find an inverter that can be wired into your AC system  and that does not charge the batteries.

Unless your previous owner upgraded, based on your model year you do not have LiFeBlue or Lithionics batteries. I think Oliver started offering Lithium batteries in 2020. A quick look will tell you what you have. If you have the standard lead-acid batteries, an inverter won't provide significant power for very long.

You should choose the inverter based on your upgrade intentions. If you are going to install LiFePO4 batteries (many on the Forum have installed BattleBorn) then get a 3000 watt model, otherwise a 2000 watt model is sufficient. Your AC may or may not have the soft-start capacitor which may be necessary when running on inverted power.

5 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

I expect adding an inverter is a fairly major upgrade after construction.

I agree. Figure out what you want and then open a ticket with your questions.

 

[Boudicca908]

My 2022 Oliver’s inverter is on the forward side of the pantry, not the aft side. I’m sorry I don’t have a better photo right now. It’s the lowest of 3 devices mounted to the right of the pantry. Those are (top to bottom) AquaGo WH control, SeaLevel control, and then the inverter. 
 

 

[Boudicca908]

12 hours ago, Cort said:

I actually looked in the manual and that's what I have.

Cort,

Can you post a photo of the items on the forward side of your pantry?
The manual includes everything possible — not always specific to your individual Oliver. Once I realized that, I went through my manual and put Xs on things that don’t apply, and stars on things that do apply to my unit. 

[MAX Burner]

@Cort:  Something to consider here, Cort - If you could provide pix of your interior/compartments as @Boudicca908 suggests, if it can be determined that there's enough mounting space you should be able to install an inverter.  Further, suggest checking with Jason Essary at OTT Factory and ask where inverters were installed for your interior layout and Hull#/MFG year.

We're happy to discuss, via PM, the possibility of making our ProWatt 2000 available to you because we're considering upgrading to a Victron 3000.  We boondock most of the time as well and the ProWatt comes in quite handy - it's a single function inverter in that it doesn't charge the battery bank - it only inverts stored DC electricity into AC for the outlets and AC-powered accessories.

Just a thought, PM when able, if you're interested.

Cheers,

[Rivernerd]

1 hour ago, Boudicca908 said:

My 2022 Oliver’s inverter is on the forward side of the pantry, not the aft side

Your photo depicts the inverter wall-mounted remote in your 2022, not the actual inverter.  The actual inverter is mounted under the the street side bed, aft of the pantry.  Our 2022 Elite II has the same configuration.

[John E Davies]

Installing an inverter is a big job involving running big wires. And upgrading the batteries. If you can’t do the work yourself it will cost thousand$. Consider one of these instead.

EcoFlow RIVER 2 Max Portable Power Station

I think the capacity is a little marginal, bigger units are coming out soon, they will have the new excellent lithium iron phosphate battery.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[MobileJoy]

1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:

it only inverts stored DC electricity into AC for the outlets and AC-powered accessories.

Can you tell me how the PROWatt is connected to the AC outlets and accessories? Perhaps a photo? Thanks.

[MAX Burner]

41 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

Our 2022 Elite II has the same configuration.

Same here for our 2017 LE II.

[MAX Burner]

46 minutes ago, MobileJoy said:

Can you tell me how the PROWatt is connected to the AC outlets and accessories? Perhaps a photo? Thanks.

Our ProWatt is connected to the main DC bus and the Automatic Transfer Switch.  When connected to shore power/GENSET, the ATS distributes incoming AC power to the outlets and AC accessories via the AC distribution panel.  When not connected to shore power/GENSET the ATS distributes the AC power from the ProWatt to the AC distribution panel then to the AC loads.  Like @John E Davies mentioned, the DC connections from the battery bank are recommended by Xantrex to be at least 0/0 for a  run that's 6 feet due to DC line loss and high current loads.  Our's are upgraded to 1/0 gauge wire.  A photo wouldn't show much of the detail.

Here's the Xantrex cabling diagram for standard and heavy AC loads:

[Cort]

10 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

We use our inverter regularly when boondocking.  We have yet to use a generator, although we usually carry a pair.

But, we also have 390 Ah of LiFePO4 batteries, which provide sufficient power to run 120V appliances (like the microwave or AC) for an hour or two.

Cort, what battery package do you have?  That may impact the feasibility of an inverter upgrade.

I have the 4 Trojan batteries which we would probably replace with lithium at some point. I haven't yet determined how costly that will be. I do see that the solar setup will accept lithium - so hopefully it's just a matter of putting the lithium in. 

I imagine it will not be easy to add an inverter in - I will check it out though. 

I have plenty of power from the solar array on the van, and since the weather is still good, I'm hardly using the Oliver at all; its more for bad weather and for my partner when she visits - but it would be nice then to get the outlets working. 

 

[Cort]

4 hours ago, MobileJoy said:

Of the two inverters discussed above, I prefer the Freedom series. This one can be programmed for most battery types, and it performs automatic switching to your AC circuitry between inverted power and shore power. It is designed to be wired to your AC system where the PROWatt provides AC outlets instead. In your case, there must already be a battery charger in your trailer. Many contributors on the Forum have said that they don't like the combined inverter/charger (Xantrex Freedom) and would have preferred these to be separate to eliminate a single point of failure. You can probably find an inverter that can be wired into your AC system  and that does not charge the batteries.

Unless your previous owner upgraded, based on your model year you do not have LiFeBlue or Lithionics batteries. I think Oliver started offering Lithium batteries in 2020. A quick look will tell you what you have. If you have the standard lead-acid batteries, an inverter won't provide significant power for very long.

You should choose the inverter based on your upgrade intentions. If you are going to install LiFePO4 batteries (many on the Forum have installed BattleBorn) then get a 3000 watt model, otherwise a 2000 watt model is sufficient. Your AC may or may not have the soft-start capacitor which may be necessary when running on inverted power.

I agree. Figure out what you want and then open a ticket with your questions.

 

Thanks so much! We have the Trojan lead batteries which seem to be well-maintained and will probably keep them for a while but do plan to move to lithium. I have Battleborn lithium in the van - and they work so well :). 

[Cort]

Thanks again for all the help!

The interior - such as it is at present 🙂

[Cort]

3 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

@Cort:  Something to consider here, Cort - If you could provide pix of your interior/compartments as @Boudicca908 suggests, if it can be determined that there's enough mounting space you should be able to install an inverter.  Further, suggest checking with Jason Essary at OTT Factory and ask where inverters were installed for your interior layout and Hull#/MFG year.

We're happy to discuss, via PM, the possibility of making our ProWatt 2000 available to you because we're considering upgrading to a Victron 3000.  We boondock most of the time as well and the ProWatt comes in quite handy - it's a single function inverter in that it doesn't charge the battery bank - it only inverts stored DC electricity into AC for the outlets and AC-powered accessories.

Just a thought, PM when able, if you're interested.

Cheers,

Definitely interested Max! Will PM you 🙂

[Cort]

2 hours ago, John E Davies said:

Installing an inverter is a big job involving running big wires. And upgrading the batteries. If you can’t do the work yourself it will cost thousand$. Consider one of these instead.

EcoFlow RIVER 2 Max Portable Power Station

I think the capacity is a little marginal, bigger units are coming out soon, they will have the new excellent lithium iron phosphate battery.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

Nice idea, John.  Those power stations are impressive and getting better and better.  

[MobileJoy]

5 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

 When not connected to shore power/GENSET the ATS distributes the AC power from the ProWatt to the AC distribution panel then to the AC loads.

Ah, so the AC from the inverter is physically connected to the ATS. Looking at the manual, the AC output of the ProWatt is a built-in GFCI outlet. So is the connection a grounded plug attached to a Romex cable at the inverter end?

[Boudicca908]

10 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

Your photo depicts the inverter wall-mounted remote in your 2022, not the actual inverter

Sorry — I thought they were looking for the control to turn it on?

[SeaDawg]

9 minutes ago, Boudicca908 said:

Sorry — I thought they were looking for the control to turn it on?

He was, til he discovered he didn't have an inverter. Thanks for trying.

 

[SeaDawg]

You may or may not want to add an inverter, if you mostly boondock, and have 4 t105 batteries. 

In 2010 or so, we added a small inverter (1000 watts), because we only had 2 x 105 ah agm group 31 batteries, primarily to charge our laptop. (Could power some small devices, not much else.)

Replaced the laptop with a tablet (12v charger) , rarely needed anything that wasn't 12v, and wanted the space the inverter used. So, it was gone. 

Much depends on your camping style, and your battery power. 

If we really need 110, a generator handles the need. We can also use the small genset to charge our agm batteries. 

We don't have a microwave, and we tend to enjoy living without a lot of extra 110 power "stuff."

Everyone has a different camping style. It's nice to be able to design your system based on your style. 

 

 

 

[Geronimo John]

On 11/14/2023 at 1:58 AM, MobileJoy said:

You should choose the inverter based on your upgrade intentions. If you are going to install LiFePO4 batteries (many on the Forum have installed BattleBorn) then get a 3000 watt model, otherwise a 2000 watt model is sufficient. Your AC may or may not have the soft-start capacitor which may be necessary when running on inverted power.

I totally support MobileJoy's comments.  If you boondock where it gets hot or are heavy microwave users (We are guilty of both), then for sure go with the 3000 w inverter.  

On 11/14/2023 at 6:19 AM, Cort said:

I do see that the solar setup will accept lithium - so hopefully it's just a matter of putting the lithium in. 

It is not for most of us"

• For our 2018, OUR Progressive Dynamics Converter (I.E. Battery Charger) had a Lithium switch.  Some others do not.  Good threads on checking this out on your.  Will only take about ten minutes of your time.
• Also, you will definitely want to install the 712 Smart Shunt with Bluetooth connectivity.  As a boondocker, having DC to DC charging capability is also very nice.  
• For the battery to inverter cable run, you need to use 4/0 AWG.  For the DC to DC cable runs #4 AWG minimum.   

Search the forum and you'll find LOTS of info on these topics.  Totally can be a DYI effort if you are handy and have some  cabling and electrical skills.  But it takes a significant amount of time and planning.  Cost of materials alone will be in the $2,500+ range if you shop carefully.  You can for sure do it at a lot less cost than having OTT do so.  Also you'll learn tons in the process.  

Finally, please update your profile, and your signature block so we know you TV, Hull Number and year.  Without this info, more specific info and help is precluded because we would just be guessing.

Your 2019 OE2 is very similar to our 2018.  (GJ Updated)

GJ

[Cort]

On 11/15/2023 at 12:59 PM, Geronimo John said:

I totally support MobileJoy's comments.  If you boondock where it gets hot or are heavy microwave users (We are guilty of both), then for sure go with the 3000 w inverter.  

It is not for most of us"

• For our 2018, OUR Progressive Dynamics Converter (I.E. Battery Charger) had a Lithium switch.  Some others do not.  Good threads on checking this out on your.  Will only take about ten minutes of your time.
• Also, you will definitely want to install the 712 Smart Shunt with Bluetooth connectivity.  As a boondocker, having DC to DC charging capability is also very nice.  
• For the battery to inverter cable run, you need to use 6/0 AWG.  For the DC to DC cable runs #4 AWG minimum.   

Search the forum and you'll find LOTS of info on these topics.  Totally can be a DYI effort if you are handy and have some  cabling and electrical skills.  But it takes a significant amount of time and planning.  Cost of materials alone will be in the $2,500+ range if you shop carefully.  You can for sure do it at a lot less cost than having OTT do so.  Also you'll learn tons in the process.  

Finally, please update your profile, and your signature block so we know you TV, Hull Number and year.  Without this info, more specific info and help is precluded because we would just be guessing.

Your 2019 OE2 is very similar to our 2018.  (GJ Updated)

GJ

Thanks GJ _ I was totally surprised to se the XAMP panel, I think it is, has a lithium option 🙂

[Geronimo John]

17 hours ago, Cort said:

6/0 AWG

My typo.  I have edited my quoted post.  The main battery cable to Inverter should be 4/0.  This will allow for reuse for either 2,000 or 3,000 watt inverters.  Also be sure to add a second auto transfer switch dedicated to the A/C.  See John Davies post on this topic for info.  Doing so allows you full capability of a 3,000 watt converter to power up the A/C and most other loads.

[jd1923]

On 11/14/2023 at 7:09 PM, SeaDawg said:

we added a small inverter (1000 watts), because we only had 2 x 105 ah agm group 31 batteries, primarily to charge our laptop...

We're glad solar and 2000W inverter was factory installed by OTT in our hull. We likely would not have bought our older used Oliver without it.

Like Seadawg, we had a 1000W inverter before (for us, in a previous RV). We used it for 1-2 years (prior to me installing an integrated 2KW unit). It ran my entire large-screen A/V system and coffee in the morning, an 1100W coffee pot or other small appliance, multiple computer adapters, all while watching the morning news). These are cheap and relatively easy to install, if just wired to 1-2 dedicated 120V outlets. I believe mine had 4GA battery cables only 3-4 FT long.

You could install one under the dinette rear seat, short cable run to the batteries. It would be easy to run an outlet under the table for a coffee pot or toaster. It's right there on the other wall! A second run to the rear attic is not as simple, but for an experienced installer it would take 30 minutes. For us, I would build in a 3KW inverter system and upgrade the A/C too, but this could be done quickly for a few hundred dollars. Nobody likes running generators.

Like SeaDawg wrote, "Much depends on your camping style, and your battery power." 🙂