chiwald Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 Hello, I did a quick search but couldn't find a thread for this question. I want to add portable solar to our setup and would like to know what others have added. I did read something that said you could not add more than 200 extra watts. ???? Does it need to be the zamp brand? Thank you, Christi, Matt, and Lucy Explore, Dream, Discover Christi, Matt & Lucy 2022 Legacy Elite II, TB Hull # 1261 2019 F150 Limited
Moderators topgun2 Posted November 19, 2023 Moderators Posted November 19, 2023 Search further - No it doesn't have to be the Zamp brand but any that you purchase will have to have a separate solar controller. Bill 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
Frank C Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 I added a Zamp port to our Oliver, on the hull near the battery compartment, since it was an easy location to access the correct locations for the positive and negative connections to the trailer 12vDC system, and used a portable Zamp 140 watt panel with an integrated charge controller. It worked very well on trips for our stays at Harvest Host locations, and our recent stay at the Circuit of the Americas track in Austin TX (plenty of sunshine!) for the Formula 1 race, when no power hookup was available. The 140 watt panel was about the biggest that I would want to carry. They are “portable” and they do fold up into a nice suitcase style carrying case but they can still be heavy and bulky to transport. 1 2
rich.dev Posted November 19, 2023 Posted November 19, 2023 @chiwald I prefer google search, i.e. "site:olivertraveltrailers.com forum portable solar panels", with portable solar panels being the search words you are looking for at olivertraveltrailers.com Here are a couple search results: - Portable solar panels - solar panel suitcase 1 1 2023 Elite II, Hull# 1386, Lithium Platinum Package (640AH, 400W Roof Solar, 3000W Xantrex Inverter), added 400W Renogy Solar suitcase with Victron MPPT 100/30 CC, Truma water heater & AC TV: 2024 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L 10-Speed Allison
DavePhelps Posted November 20, 2023 Posted November 20, 2023 I am eventually wanting to do this as well. But I am curious why you wouldn't want to connect your aux panels directly into your existing onboard charge controller. My understanding (uh-oh) is that it is much more efficient for the charge controller to be closer to the batteries than it is for the panels to be close to the controller. Since the aux panels are usually far away from the trailer (typical cable runs are 20' or more), if they have an integrated controller, then there is greater voltage loss along the longer run to the batteries. Aux panels without integrated controllers do not suffer this loss as the current to the onboard controller is not as effected by voltage drop over long runs. It is the voltage drop between the controller and batteries that is the issue. Help me out here. I'm not an electrician but after studying this, it seems like a better option. What am I missing? Thanks. Dave 2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107 1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter
MAX Burner Posted November 20, 2023 Posted November 20, 2023 We're using the 200W Renogy "suitcase" style portable solar modules - it's rigged with a 10ft 10AWG cable and we've got a 20ft extension cable, if need be. Granted, it would be more efficient to mount the Renogy solar charge controller inside the battery compartment to reduce the DC line loss especially when using the 20ft extension - this is on the "to do" list, for sure. But in the meantime, it's still a healthy supplement of DC energy into the BB bank - we'll take whatever we can get! The portable kit carries well even in the small Tundra truck bed - the downside is the weight of the unit, its not light at about 36#, but still 12# lighter than our Honda 2000! We installed an SAE connector to the battery bank hatch which is wired to the Victron smart shunt (neg) and main battery bus (pos). FYI: We've not brought along the Honda GENSET during our trips this summer/fall - seems that the 340W roof modules and the Renogy portable kit does the trick in topping off the batteries by mid-morning, at least in the SW USA. 😜 Cheers! 1 Art, Diane, Magnus & Oscar (double-Aaarrf!) 2022 TUNDRA 2017 LE II; Hull #226 "Casablanca" HAM call-sign: W0ABX
Galway Girl Posted November 20, 2023 Posted November 20, 2023 Our extra solar panel setup is documented here: https://4-ever-hitched.com/ggs-blog/f/here-comes-the-sun 2 2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro Travel BLOG: https://4-ever-hitched.com
Geronimo John Posted November 20, 2023 Posted November 20, 2023 8 hours ago, MAX Burner said: We're using the 200W Renogy "suitcase" style portable solar modules - it's rigged with a 10ft 10AWG cable and we've got a 20ft extension cable, if need be. Granted, it would be more efficient to mount the Renogy solar charge controller inside the battery compartment to reduce the DC line loss especially when using the 20ft extension - this is on the "to do" list, for sure. Art and I are both using the same solar panel and have connected them up this past summer using the Z-amp 10 AWG Solar Panel Connection as shown in his picture. Down the road when I get past all the Priority A and B mods, I'll likely remove the Solar Charge Controller and make it portable as John D. did several years ago (See his post for details.) Short version is he sits it on top of his street side tire and runs a short cord into the batteries. But with just using the Solar Suitcase as stock, it's not a high priority. However, if you want to extend the (10') stock cable, then the JD upgrade mod would be more beneficial (B Level Mod). My only regret is that I purchased the single 200-watt solar suitcase vs. two each 100-watt solar suitcases. For my purposes, the smaller ones would transport better in my short bed TV. They would also be easier to move around and get out of the TV bed. This may require some smarts for connecting two of them up to a single charge controller. But likely Renogy already has this covered. GJ 3 TV: 2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker OLLIE: 2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed. OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf. TV DIY’s: 2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).
Moderators SeaDawg Posted November 21, 2023 Moderators Posted November 21, 2023 On 11/19/2023 at 7:44 PM, DavePhelps said: I am eventually wanting to do this as well. But I am curious why you wouldn't want to connect your aux panels directly into your existing onboard charge controller. My understanding (uh-oh) is that it is much more efficient for the charge controller to be closer to the batteries than it is for the panels to be close to the controller. Since the aux panels are usually far away from the trailer (typical cable runs are 20' or more), if they have an integrated controller, then there is greater voltage loss along the longer run to the batteries. Aux panels without integrated controllers do not suffer this loss as the current to the onboard controller is not as effected by voltage drop over long runs. It is the voltage drop between the controller and batteries that is the issue. Help me out here. I'm not an electrician but after studying this, it seems like a better option. What am I missing? Thanks. Dave It's indeed possible, with additional equipment, usually. You need to analyze existing equipment,to know if it's capable of new load. 2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4 2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12 Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes.... 400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries . Life is good.
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