Oliver Legacy Elite II Garage

[RustyMD]

If you could build a pull-thru  garage/barn/shed for your Oliver how big would it be? Height, Length, Width.

I am proposing to build one 15’ tall by 15’ wide by 30’ long with a 12’ x12’ roll up door on each end.

Thanks

[topgun2]

48 minutes ago, RustyMD said:

I am proposing to build one 15’ tall by 15’ wide by 30’ long with a 12’ x12’ roll up door on each end.

I'd love to have one that size - but...

If I was going to build it then I'd go for something a bit wider.  With the Ollie at 7 foot wide you "only" have 4 feet left on either side assuming that you are parked square in the middle.  Given that you will probably store other things in that garage and you will want space to work on your Ollie - think waxing if nothing else - you should have a bit more room.

Bill

[Rivernerd]

3 hours ago, RustyMD said:

If you could build a pull-thru  garage/barn/shed for your Oliver how big would it be? Height, Length, Width.

If you have the available space and budget, bigger is always better.  I built a 30'x30' x 16' H (to the bottom of the rafters) "boat shed" for my raft trailer, rafts and related boating gear in 2018.  It has a 16' W x 14' H garage door.  It seemed spacious until the wife decided in 2020 that we needed an Oliver Elite II.  Our 2021 Elite II fits in one of the two bays of the boat shed, but I have had to rig up some creative rafter storage for my rafts frames, etc. to make it work with my raft trailer on the other side.  And, I am now out of storage space!  So, we are laying plans to add another bay to it, hopefully beginning next spring.

Moral of the story:  If you can afford it, overbuild.  You will never regret it.  But, like me, you may regret underbuilding.

[Patriot]

On 12/28/2023 at 4:20 PM, RustyMD said:

If you could build a pull-thru  garage/barn/shed for your Oliver how big would it be? Height, Length, Width.

I am proposing to build one 15’ tall by 15’ wide by 30’ long with a 12’ x12’ roll up door on each end.

Thanks

RustyMD ,

I had our “Ollie Hangar” built at our home in July of 2022. I had a 13’W X 55’L slab poured and contracted with a company out of Mt Airy, NC to have our Ollie Hangar custom built. We decided on 11’H X 13’W X 25’L steel structure.
We keep our Ollie plugged into 30 amp while stored here. We presently have 4 car attached parking 3 upper garages and a lower basement garage just did not need a 5th enclosed garage.
This open air metal building aka hangar has really worked out well for washing and waxing our Ollie and keeping out of the weather and especially the UV. Needless to say, it’s  a real plus having our Ollie parked at our home and under cover. Also note: I have plenty of room to wash and wax our Ollie. 

Have fun deciding what to build that suits your needs! 
Patriot🇺🇸
 

 

This is where we plot and plan our trips and tell a few true camping stories around the fire - aka base camp. 😊

[Wandering Sagebrush]

4 hours ago, RustyMD said:

If you could build a pull-thru  garage/barn/shed for your Oliver how big would it be? Height, Length, Width.

I am proposing to build one 15’ tall by 15’ wide by 30’ long with a 12’ x12’ roll up door on each end.

Thanks

I’m in the bigger is better crowd, too.  But then, being the child of depression era parents, I suffer from packrat disease.   You never know when you might need (fill in the blank).  On the serious side, extra room for the TV,  tools, or just space for projects is pretty nice.

[SeaDawg]

We've built a couple garages, with hopes of accommodating our Elite I, along with other vehicles and trailers.

If 15 x 15 x 30 is what your restrictions allow, go for it. If you can go at least 16 wide, I'd do it. An extra foot gives room for shelves, and a workbench on rollers. And, all that other "stuff".

If you have room, at least go longer and wider,, for resale, if you ever decide to move. 30' length won't accommodate  most class c's or a's. 

Our pole barn garage is 32 x 36, still short, but we needed room to swing the truck, and have a significant  probably 3' incline, in the path. That's a factor, too. We have a 14' high door, so no factor for entry, but arse end of truck is high for "short me"  to unload, unless we are well inside, because of the inclined apron, on rainy days.

Still, it holds three workbenches, the Elite, two utility trailers, two or three atvs, and the truck, as necessary. And, various "necessary " shelving, genset, weedeaters, etc, etc. But, it's a jigsaw/chiclets game of maneuvers.

If all you need is a shelter for your Ollie, you are good to go. Room for a slim rolling scaffold on each side.

Remember that you need extra height for the garage door opener, and ratlines/overhead beams.

[Steph and Dud B]

That seems like a good size. However, if you build a pull-through, you lose any storage on the back wall. Something to consider if you want to store some camping gear in there, too. We just built a 30'x30' wood framed garage with two bay doors, each 10' wide by 12' high, and some storage/work area on the side. The trusses are 14' up. The 10' wide doors are fine for an Oliver. No trouble backing in. I use a traffic delineator post as a target for the rearview camera. You can see it in one of the photos. (We couldn't do a stripe on the floor because our dually's hips block my view of the trailer wheels.) We didn't install a 30A plug because we don't intend to run the trailer A/C in there, but we do have a 20A circuit for battery charging, etc. 

[Steph and Dud B]

12 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Remember that you need extra height for the garage door opener

I'm assuming this is a steel building? If they use roll up doors, there won't be anything over the trailer, but they'll need enough height for the rolled up doors at the ends. For our conventional garage doors we installed side mount door openers instead of hanging them over the bays. They're very nice.

[RustyMD]

Thanks everybody for the pictures and suggestions. Truth be I was plan on a 30’ X 30’ footprint. The other half is for a boat. I do think I’ll need a fair amount more for the Oliver’s and boat’s stuff. The pull through eliminating a fair amount of storage is bad but wow, Pull through would be nice. I’ll probably see if I can make it wider, like 40’. 

Thanks again.

[Steph and Dud B]

For anyone interested, I posted more details about our experience building the garage on our blog, including some pricing and the vagaries of construction schedules.

[SeaDawg]

11 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

I'm assuming this is a steel building.

Mine is. We like it. It's insulated (big roll batts), and pretty comfy in the seasons we use it. 

Your contractor did a nice job, from what I see in the photos. (I also read your blog.)

We investigated both conventional framing, and pole barn (pole framed), and chose the steel sided , pole framed for a number of reasons. Investment/price, speed of construction,  and availability.  (We built during Covid slowdowns.) And, I'm familiar with both. (My family built a couple steel buildings, and a bunch of conventionally framed buildings. My brother sells pole barns in Minnesota. )

I like your sidemount garage door openers. (Still have to allow room for the overhead rails.) We looked into them, but our contractor advised against, based on availability,  and size of our  conventional garage door. 

Everything for us was an availability issue. Lumber, fasteners,  pvc, wire... (except the steel) you name it. Garage door took six months. Windows, six months. (We ordered in January,  at urging of our contractor,  got them in July, I think.) We went to 6 different stores in three counties, for 12/3 wire one day. Omg. 

Thankfully,  the pain is over, and we really are happy with end result. 

Back to the op, if you maintain 2' dimensions everywhere, if conventional framing, you'll save a lot of waste. Dimensional lumber is in 2' increments. Never do odd dimensions, if you can help it. Plywood/osb/Hardie panels, 4 x 8' , typically. Cutting takes time, and makes waste. (Honestly, cutoffs usually go to dumpster, even usable, unless you watch it, as we do.)

If you can add length to 36', or more, I'd do it. 32' width, again, I'd do it. You'd be surprised how little more it costs to add a few feet, either way. There are major site prep costs that add more to most finished buildings than a foot (or 6) either way.

Our home garage is 24 x 36, and we manage, but the Ollie sits in the side yard,  and my husband's truck in a side drive. (My Silverado gets a garage spot.) 2 cars, workshop, and my truck. And, a bunch of very important shelving containing stuff, and more stuff. Lol.

Good luck with your decision.  I have to agree with the posters who said to build as big as you can. @RustyMD, if you can go 32 x 40, or 30 x 40, I'd go extra length before width, imo.

Edit to add: if you are looking at a metal building, look at the newer crinkle finish for sides. It's a much less reflective, warmer finish. Not your standard shiny stuff. I love ours.

The "garage" side in my photo is 32 x 36. The workshop side (behind the "porch"  is 16 x 30. For reference. We went with one big garage door, because of the incline, and angles of backing. With a flat approach, or pull through, two garage doors would likely be easier. )

 

[Steph and Dud B]

45 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

if you maintain 2' dimensions everywhere, if conventional framing, you'll save a lot of waste

Excellent advice! I saved some 2x6 cutoffs for firewood and some sheathing/roof cutoffs for shelves, etc. but a lot went to waste, and we paid for all of it.

[John Dorrer]

On 12/28/2023 at 4:20 PM, RustyMD said:

If you could build a pull-thru  garage/barn/shed for your Oliver how big would it be? Height, Length, Width.

I am proposing to build one 15’ tall by 15’ wide by 30’ long with a 12’ x12’ roll up door on each end.

Thanks

Room for a work bench and shelves for storage on the side, maybe 20' wide.

 Probably not a big upcharge