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According to Oliver all 2022 LE2 's received 5200 lb. axles, with Nev-R-Lube axles, Nev-Adjust brakes. His trailer is 200+ Hull #'s after ours😊

I'm happy to report progress on my solar disconnect switch. I've drilled my first hole in our Oliver. And installed the switch. Unfortunately I ran into a problem as I was making the short wire between the 3/8" ring terminal post on the BlueSea switch and the ring terminal to the back of the Zamp. I ordered 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4' ring terminals for the 6awg wire attaching to the back of the Zamp. Unfortunately it uses 3/16". They should be in today. I also noticed something that makes me a little concerned about the solar wiring safety. I'm not an electrician but this install does not look like it was done by an electrician either. If you look closely at the red (+) wire connections in the photo below, it appears at least a couple of the ring terminals used on the 6awg solar wire are under sized. It's hard to see but the "excess" wire strands are wrapped around the ring terminal and covered by heat shrink. The black (-) wire connections look OK. Not sure if this is common practice but it seems unsafe and more like a DIY rather than a professional install. I haven't removed any of these ring terminals yet but, but once I do, I'm going to cut off the heat shrink to examine this more closely

@John Dorrer had answered, YES for 2022 to 2025 Olivers. But to be sure... You should just check yours. Remove one wheel so you can see the drum. If you see the bearing cover plate like in the first picture you have the Nev-R Lube bearings. The cover plate is larger and has Nev-R Lube stamped into the cover. Second picture is the only picture I had with the drum on, just before I did a first bearing service on our older hull. It shows the old style axle with inner and outer bearings that must be packed with grease. The bearing cover is smaller without stamping. I believe if you have the EZ-Lube model, the cover plate has a Zerk fitting to add grease. EZ-Lube is not Nev-R Lube.

I suspect that's where it's really going to shine, especially in controlling humidity once set temp is reached.

It will be interesting to see compiled data once your unit is tested ‘outside’ of the Vault’s climate-controlled setting, while camping in actual heat and humidity.

The axle label includes "nev-r-adjust"......does that mean this axle does not include "nev-r-lube"? Confusing. Does the 2022 have both?

Have you used it camping? Not Yet Still getting the same numbers? Yes Is it truly quiet or how would you describe it? You can have a conversation with it running For every hour of use on a summer day, how many Ah are used in battery SOC? It only runs a few minutes every 30 minutes or longer. Mine is stored in the Vault in the AC Answers to any of these Qs would be helpful. Also, did you keep the fiberglass platform that OTT had mounted behind the 14x14" A/C opening? Yes I don't believe our hull has that add-on. I'm trying to finalize if this is the right purchase and is now the right time to buy the Turbro Greenland which is now at $1,275 plus tax. Except in warranty and perhaps temp range, the Pioneer and Greenland appear to be the same. minutes or so. Only you can make that call Sorry I can't give you more info.

The inverter has a standby power consumption constantly while it is turned on. This is true whether you are using 110vac or not. Personally, we keep the inverter off unless we are using something like a hair dryer or the microwave. Our camping style is 90% boondocking but we use the inverter very sparingly. This is even more important since you have the AGM's and have to watch them carefully to prevent them from getting to 50% SOC.

I do know the GM trucks have a trailer charging line (as well as the others) that is fused under the hood.

I know that Oliver terminated it's agreements with all the dealers in the southeast. I believe there was at least one dealership who had not paid for the trailers that were sitting on their sales lot. I'm sure there were other reasons as well, but it was just easier for them to handle all the sales for southeastern customers through Hohenwald.

There was one in Savannah Ga, for a while, recently I was trying to find them to get some work done. I was wondering why they no longer showed up.

Wasn't there at least one dealer in Georgia as well? I thought Southland RV was an Oliver dealer. Doesn't appear on the dealer map any longer.

Wondering 6 weeks later, could you provide additional feedback on your new Pioneer? Have you used it camping? Still getting the same numbers? Is it truly quiet or how would you describe it? For every hour of use on a summer day, how many Ah are used in battery SOC? Answers to any of these Qs would be helpful. Also, did you keep the fiberglass platform that OTT had mounted behind the 14x14" A/C opening? I don't believe our hull has that add-on. I'm trying to finalize if this is the right purchase and is now the right time to buy the Turbro Greenland which is now at $1,275 plus tax. Except in warranty and perhaps temp range, the Pioneer and Greenland appear to be the same.

Hurray! Another OTT person in Wisconsin! Columbia Cty for me but I service my Oli near Sheboygan. Not quite sure how to have a private chat to share info but I am open to it.

Thanks... This is one of my concerns.... How to know if the trailer is still safe to pull? If there are stress cracks. How can this be repaired? I think this would be beyond most RV owners' or RV Service departments' knowledge and skills to repair. I also wonder what the usable lifespan is compared to a traditional trailer.

Thanks... This is one of my concerns.... How to know if the trailer is still safe to pull? If there are stress cracks, how can this be repaired? I think this would be beyong most RV owners or RV Service Departments to repair.

Correction, it was the GFCI outlet that the inverter plugged into. I did not notice that was a GFCI plug, until I was going through Galloway Girls post again. Went back to double-check that outlet and walla! The circuit was tripped. Thanks for the help!

Before you do that please check the GFCI outlet on the inverter itself. You said you have the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter and if it’s like the one I used to have in our Oliver, there is a duplex GFCI outlet on the inverter with a romex cable plugged into that outlet that then feeds a CB on the panel. Your wiring may be different than mine but I hope this helps.

Thanks, yes I have the GFCI outlet under the dinette. I tested that when I was plugged into shore power and it tested fine, so I ruled that out. But just double-checked it now, with only the inverter on (not on shore power) and it will not trip, when I test it. I plugged back into shore power and the GFCI outlet tests and resets fine. Looks like that might be it. I'll replace it today. Thanks to all!

"The batteries are fully charged and my 110 outlets will not work with the solar. I am wondering if there is a fuse somewhere else in the trailer, other than the fuse/breaker panel or if I have a problem with the transfer switch, maybe? I'm asuming the problem is inverter-related, but not sure. I have the 320 solar watt package, with the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter. The batteries are fully charged and my 110 outlets will not work with the solar." is this statement true...batteries at 100%, you are not connected to shore power and your 110 outlets don't work....but your inverter is ON? Here's a checklist to help: Battery Charged (YES) Connected to shore power (Yes) (No) Inverter On (Yes) (No) Fridge Breaker Tripped (Yes) (No) = ours has a 20amp breaker in the panel for the fridge Inverter Built In GFCI Tripped (Yes) (No) = There is a plug in on the actual inverter that has a GFCI on it...see below GFCI In Outlet Tripped (Yes) (No) = Our hull has a second gfci outlet on the front of the dinette seat.

Typically it's a GFIC receptacle (outlet) with a reset and test button, not a breaker. It will be the first receptacle closest to the breaker panel that daisy chains to feed the others, mine is the one under the dinette.

Thank you katanapilot and Ronbrink. There doesn't appear to be any CB tripped, but I could see it being the CFCI breaker. Where is the breaker for the inverter located? I don't see a CFCI breaker specifically for the inverter. Also, unforturnately we don't have a microwave.

@ScubaRx had a great idea. Go to the truck fuse box and disconnect the fuse that provides power to charge the Ollie batteries (I am installing lithium batteries in the Ollie). A great idea to pull the charger wire fuse so there is no power in the line at all to the 7 pin connector. Unfortunately on my 2024 RAM there is no such fuse for power that would charge the Ollie batteries. The 2024 RAM fuses for the trailer are (1) Trailer tow backup; (2) Trailer stop/left turn signal, (3) Trailer stop/right turn signal, (4) Trailer tow park lamp. I guess I would have to remove the wire from the "Aux 12V Power" connector at the 7 pin connector, if I want to stop power from my vehicle alternate to not charge the Ollie batteries or find the wire in the Ollie to disconnect, but then there is still power in that wire. @Galway Girl and others that have converted from AGM batteries to Lithium batteries: Is the "Aux 12V power" on the 7 pin connector the wire to disable? Can the vehicle charge wire to the trailer stay in place when installing lithium batteries? Will the vehicle alternate be compromised if the wire is not disconnected? Thanks All

A good way to check if the GFCI on the inverter is working is to see if the microwave has power, since it plugs directly into the GFCI outlet on the inverter. If the microwave has power then your inverter is working. If not, the GFCI has tripped and needs to be reset. For reasons unknown my GFCI has tripped, wherein the microwave and outlet receptacles have no power. There have been times when it took a few presses of the reset button on the GFCI to get it to work again. Once power is confirmed at the microwave, all is good. This may not be your remedy, but a good place to start.

I have extensive experienece with carbon fiber vs alloy aluminum for structural components under heavy load. Specifically in critical components such as hang glider frames. I have many times put my life on the line with them in that sport. They are strong and reliable... until they are not. When they fail, the consequences are generally been dire. This happened to two of my free flight friends. They died. The problem is that carbon fiber components are extremely difficult to inspect for tell-tale structural failure. With aluminum, for most spars, we see micro crazing then small cracks. They grow as the structural intregruity deteriorates. I no longer fly or use carbon fiber for life safety applications. The reason is that the inspection technology to ensure they are still safe to use is way way beyond what the average owner can do at home or in the field. GJ