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I was wondering if anyone had put a Vortex or LineX type of covering on their Oliver and what kind of results they had. I’m taking delivery of an Apex 23 in October and have made an appointment with the folks who do the ceramic coatings to do a PPL on the front and lower undersides of my trailer to provide some additional protection against debris being thrown up. Seems like a good idea to do right off the bat vs after taking damage though the thought of spraying my brad new trailer gives me a huge “eak”!!!!

Was happy to read about your Titan. I have a 2020 Pro 4X to tow my Oliver Apex 23 when I get in October. I also purchased the Anderson for same reason you mentioned so feel good about that.

Another option that does not require this. Just use a funnel to poor the required amount of bleach/NCI into the hose (while holding it up right of course). Then connect the hose to the port and start running the water.

We love Glacier. My wife and I try to go up each year at the end of May and ride our eBikes (see this is where I am not as hardcore as you) up going-to-the-sun road when it is closed to traffic. Avalanche Lake is one of the prettiest hikes around. Weather caused us to devert this year.

(And my wife says -I- spend too much money on stuff from Amazon…) 😂

We have spent a good deal of time on the opposite side at Green River Lake area which is amazing to say the least. Rough ride to get the Oliver in but we have done it twice now. Lander has been on our short list too but have only driven by that part and its been quite a few years now. The Winds are fantastic.

That's a great price on the LT225/75R/16 Michelins. Believe one of the local installers for Tire Rack can be Discount Tire, for those who like Discount Tire.

The Lonseal Yacht flooring deserves the best cleaner available. It's AI powered!

JD, On a side note...I thought I was wasting my time and money with our dc to dc install last year at the Q, as I have barely used it the past year and a half but I sure am happy I did as we've had so many cloudy days since getting into Canada on our way to Alaska. Each day we travel we get them charged back up in a respectable amount of time. Of course we mostly boondock as you know. I only used 6ga so don't get things through as fast as you but I still have plenty to satisfy me. John

I guess that you've never actually met ScottyGS!

The manual wants you to use bleach and the boondocking port to use the pump to pull diluted bleach through into the tank. Disadvantage is its a bit of a pain, and I’d prefer a better alternative to bleach. So instead I’m using the Sani-System packets which use a mixture of ammonium chlorides. It also has the advantage that it can be run through the water heater. Regardless of your sanitizer, looking for pros/cons of this approach. Instead of the boondocking port which requires futzing around with valves which is a pain, I got this https://www.amazon.com/RV-Inline-Sanitizer-Easiest-disinfect/dp/B08F2QTQ5T The picture is deceiving, it’s a neat little inline container that the bleach/NCl can be poured into, that then is attached to the (for me) streetside port direct to tank. Then just run the faucets through the system. No messing with valves, much quicker and easier. However, are there parts of the system that are not being sanitized? I guess the answer is yes - the curbside port, which I rarely use. I guess I answered my own question, it really should go through the curbside. Anyhow comments are welcome …

As with most things, I'm sure this is true. However, I believe in the acronym "Anything But China" (ABC) whenever possible. Often, China is the only choice. Current management is changing that now, if you know what I mean! 😎 For 30 years, I've purchased a lot of tires from Tire Rack. I can understand the draw to Discount Tire because they are everywhere you may need them on the road, but I find them over-priced and difficult customer service. Tire Rack includes a 2-year Road Hazard and include installation in your purchase and choose a local shop, ship them there and get a contracted installation rate. The other thing I like about Tire Rack is they are the only company that lists "Country of Origin" at the bottom of the Specs tab for every tire they sell. @John Dorrer if your friend with the new Oliver is still in the market for tires, I strongly suggest these at this price! (EDIT: these do not come in 15" so will only work for older Olivers with 16" wheels.) Michelin Agilis CrossClimate LT225/75R16 These had MSRP of $260 each but are discontinued for the new version, on closeout for $189. I have these tires on our Oliver because it came that way. These are great tires for the Oliver, designed as a high mileage commercial van tire. I've towed our trailer about 300 miles on rocky Arizona dirt roads. The rocks on our roads are sharp. I know this because once I got a 4" cut into a rear dirt bike tire. We have about 18K miles in the last 2 years, and I have no idea how many miles prior owner(s) towed and the tread and sidewalls look like new with DOT codes 2420 (6 years old). They are Michelin, and according to Tire Rack, Made in the USA! Anybody need new Oliver tires?

However, the GX and the Elite I would be a fantastic combination! Luxury on either side end of the hitch.

We’ve been using this one for several years - either set on top of the (closed) propane cooktop in the Ollie, or on a picnic table or small accessory (Lifetime) table: https://a.co/d/0aWqQ1by Though - the one you have looks a little sleeker. I stash this one on the second drawer on the left under the sink. We keep rolls of toil or cling wrap around it to keep it from shifting.

You don’t really have a robotic floor cleaner in your trailer?!

We're using this.... but it has a hard time turning around when it hits the end of the aisle. The dog stays off the floor when it's running..... Scotty

I guess they located the receptacle there for the earlier units. I think it makes more sense. That way the power cord doesn’t have to pass through and walls and all the wiring is in one spot. WHY they changed that is an interesting question. Perhaps someone was worried about moisture or corrosion?

I would love to get a group together and go up to glacier. I went by myself last summer and the hiking isnt as much fun by yourself.

I think lander would be an excellent spot for a get together. Sinks canyon has a really nice paved trail along the river, and the mountains have plenty of options for more fun and challenging rides.

Well - so far - the window leak appears to have been fixed. Been raining here for a couple of hours - not heavy - but it didn’t have to be to leak. I can see a trace of water through the holes in the plastic track - which is what I had seen previously - but none is leaking down the wall. That said - I’ll have to keep an eye on this as if I should open the window fully and it hits the stop - it may break that seal. I suppose that this winter I’ll have to put a slightly longer, thicker screw in to get a better grip as I think that only the first few threads of the existing one engage the metal of the frame.

We do that too with the carpet runner. That way I can walk around in bare feet. We found that in colder weather, it also keeps your feet off the cold floor.

Maybe the fronts being the leading tire take more abuse, first to hit bumps and bridge seams and potholes, etc. I've not noticed this before, though most of my experience is in auto applications that only have front-end wheel bearings. Given your hub temps traveling were good, I would not worry too much. Do your best to reassemble correctly. I don't use torque wrenches, but what you wrote looks good. I tighten and spin (and repeat) and try to place the cotter pin at or near the tightest point while hand-tightening with a medium length ratchet. Clean the bearings thoroughly. I rinse with old gasoline and then wash with Dawn detergent, using compressed air to blow clean and dry. Repack again using your packing tool and fill both inner and outer seams of each bearing with grease removing any air bubbles. I believe it's very important to fill grease between the new inner seal and inner bearing. Same for the outer bearing and the washer and I grease on and around the races. This way grease should not spin out of the bearings with use. Your grease looks a little odd, but it could just be the picture. The many brands of high-temp CV2 wheel bearing grease I've used always looks a very dark red or maroon in color and in your picture, it looks more orange. I did the same Timken replacement, but a year later upgraded to D52 axles and never did the follow-up repacking you are working. Wonder what the bearings look like on my old axles? (Still trying to sell them!)

Removed Ollie's spare tire housing again and firmly pulled across one area of tire tread to see if the spare tire had complete contact against the fiberglass hull. It moved a little, not as easily as @Dirt Duff tire. The wing nut was causing friction against the wheel, I thought the spare tire was tight contacting the fiberglass hull completely with the 225/75R/15 spare tire. Believe the same thing was happening with the original 215/60R/16 spare tire, too. Both tires were contacting the fiberglass hull previously in areas, but not completely. Cleaned the area on our camper where the spare tire contacts the fiberglass hull and installed four 3 1/4" diameter 1/4" thick door knob pads for the tire to contact like @Hokieman did on his spare tire. With two nuts still on the stud and four 1/4" thick doorknob pads installed on the hull for the spare tire to contact when tightening down the wing nut, the tire contacts all four pads with clearance left between the wingnut and two nuts. I'm keeping two nuts on the mount stud, but in some cases there could be contact between the second nut and wingnut on other Oliver spare tire installations like it would be on @jd1923 trailer, possibly due to small variations of wing nuts, mounts, wheels and tires. Really like the plastic disc @Townesw installed for the wingnut to contact when the wingnut is tightened against the wheel.

We are in the area as well (north Idaho). All for hiking. I had my go at mountain biking Moab a few years back, and that is when I realized I was not really a mountain biker (slickrock kicked my butt) 😄 We are on the younger side of ownership as well (pre-retirement but hitting empty-nester years).

Welcome @Douglas-Stickler to The OTT Forum and we wish for you a new Oliver in your future! This is correct and what @Steve Morris with his favorite Land Cruiser wrote "with the 5.7 V8, and it is just adequate" is also correct. The 200 platform, an LX or the Tundra would work, but sorry not the GX. We have a wonderful '08 GX470. Three years ago, after purchase of our Oliver, I setup our GX with a REDARC brake controller thinking I could use it as our tow vehicle. When I got home after a test tow, first thing I said to my wife is "We need to buy a truck." She nodded in agreement. Besides payload capacity or 4.6 vs. 5.7 towing power, there is another major issue. The wheelbase on the GX/4Runner 120 platform is just too short! Any porpoising movement in Oliver creates a BAD pendulum effect on the short wheelbase of the GX. The Andersen WDH helps a little, but using it strains the suspension front to rear. It feels awkward and uncomfortable. After driving just a few miles on an in-town highway, I returned home and detached. There is no way in the world I would tow down the mountain where we live in our GX pulling an Oliver. Chris drives our GX every day. After I restored it, she lets me drive it on occasion. 🤣 Hope you can keep your GX and purchase a 2500 series truck like we did!