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Thanks. A bit of searching and there is info all over the place. Sorry to bother.

Good instructions

We got hard copy manuals when we picked up our 2022 LE 2. There were instructions with pictures. I have had Oliver make needed adjustments when the trailer was in for service. You need to make very slight adjustments. Too much and the motor will keep running and could burn out the motor. If you Google Girard Awning adjustments you should get a detailed "How To".

I wasn't sure I wanted the heat pump until I watched install videos from some very seasoned RVrs, and they both said they really loved the heat pump. At today's prices it was a $230 difference, so I figured I would go for it. As for what's under the bump on the roof...there are two globs of resin under the front end of the bump that are roughly 2" x 3". I haven't figured out a way to remove these without damaging the gelcoat. I might just repostion the bump an inch or two toward the rear to cover them up. I did figure out the slope of the roof from the front of the Chill Cube to the back is about 3 degrees. Furrion says up to 15 degrees in either direction is acceptable, so there is no need for the bump with this unit. Once I tightened the four installation bolts it sat down on the rear support pads the way it should. I got the unit fired up yesterday and its amazing! Not sure what to do to make the furnace work with the Dometic thermostat, or if I'll have to get a different model. Anybody know the answer to this?

Is there a link that guides one to make this adjustment?

I am challenged enough coming up with dinner ideas at home, let alone camping! Thank you so much for sharing your recipe! We are heading to southern Utah next week and I will definitely be making this. Any more recipes you can share?

What are you plugging into? I assume it's a campground 30A receptacle, right? If it's only a household outlet you could easily be overloading it with normal Oliver things like the water heater, fridge, battery charger, etc. But this did happen to us once at a campground. We had a loose connection at the water heater. Don't know why it blew the 30A breaker at the pedestal and not the 20A breaker inside the trailer, but it did. Anyway, check everything mentioned above first. If you don't find anything wrong in the shore power connections as mentioned above try this: while unplugged, turn off every breaker in the Oliver breaker box under the dinette, then try plugging in again. If you blow the pedestal again you've got a short in the cable connections or EMS. If the pedestal breaker didn't blow, turn on the 30A main Oliver breaker. If that's ok, keep turning on Oliver breakers one at a time until you find the one that's tripping the pedestal.

It "blows the circuit on the shore socket." What exactly blows? Does the 30A breaker on the pedestal blow? If so, you have a dead short in your shore power cable, the receptacle, or in the EMS (given you have one, more info below). The GFCI is after the fact. If wiring past the GFCI get a short, it will trip and all outlets are after a 15A circuit breaker. The jacks are 12VDC, so running off battery. If your jack has a short the yellow-jacketed 30A 12VDC fuse will blow. These items cannot be your issue. Do you have an EMS with a display? The display might be in the attic. If so, when you plug into shore power check the display for an error code. The display shows 4 readings for a couple seconds each. It shows voltage present and Hz, amperage being used, and error codes. If you see E0, it means no errors. If you have anything but E0, you have an issue with incoming power. The error code definitions are on the cover of the EMS. This is a picture of our EMS and our display (I installed ours in the trunk, readout in picture is showing 123V actual). We'll know more when you answer my first question and your EMS status...

Before you connect your power cable to the trailer check each of the three lugs on the trailer to ensure they are tight. I had a loose one and it ended up melting the connections on both the cable and the trailer. If they are tight I would track the cable where it enters the trailer (under the back dinette seat) and start checking connections along the path to ensure none are loose. Mike

When I plug my Oliver into shore power, it blows the circuit on the shore socket! Suggestions? I have checked the GF under dining table’s right side. I have checked that no Oliver circuit breakers were tripped. My front hydraulic lift is working on and off. Possibly there’s a short in there.

When you're able to wait on a technology purchase, usually products improve over time and get cheaper. This one is not cheaper ($412 more than I paid for the Chill Cube w/o heat pump). Though heat pump functionality would be good backup heat for our hull and for Chris @CRM if this was available, he may have gone this route vs. the Turbro. For them, a heat pump was a mandatory requirement. Hope removal of your rear A/C platform goes well. Let us know. https://unitedrvparts.com/products/furrion-chill-cube-non-ducted-heat-pump-2025008214-18-000-btu-white-facr18hepa-ps-am-1

Thanks for the quick response. I'm in total agreement with you. I'm really surprised at the response from Oliver, but, as you said, they probably don't want the liability.

@Grizz000 Thank you for the excellent write up on your Xantrex inverter/charger, battery and solar mod. I do have a question about your method of attaching the Coosa board to fiberglass. I am specifically interested in how you applied the G/flex 655 to the Coosa board panel. Did you apply the G/flex to both surfaces and was it applied in a bead or puddle and did you spread or tool it? Mossey

Paul, that's a strange "bump" or platform that mine did not have. You can see in my installation picture above the roof is smooth. On our hull they merely made the rear legs of the P2 taller, since the roof slopes down. Good thing is the Chill cube is almost a foot shorter, when installed it sits only on the flat forward section. Anything can be removed and my guess is it's just glued down. OTT doesn't suggest removing it! 🤣 Likely, only because they do not want to suggest a liability and nobody working there today has any idea of how it was installed. If it was me, I would take another day or two and delete that platform. It's not pretty! I would remove the silicone caulk, scrape and use acetone. Then I would slowly pry up around the edges, and spend some time cleaning up the roof. 😎

I just spoke with Oliver Tech Support and they said they don't recommend removing the bump. I asked if there is gelcoat below the bump and they said there is. I asked if there is a hole below the bump and they said no. If I'm not mistaken, the only purpose served by the bump is to support the rear of the Penguin II. If anybody can shed some light on this I would greatly appreciate it.

Mounting the Chill Cube this morning and finding a slight interference with the “bump” that supported the Dometic. Anybody know if this can be removed and how difficult it is to take off? If not, I can modify the mounting feet on the new unit to allow it to sit down. Hate to cut up a brand new ac if I don’t have to!

Welcome to the group! This is a helpful place so don’t hesitate to ask. Mike

Welcome.

Welcome to the Family! Looks like you are off to a great start - nice rig and a couple of nice camping spots too. If you haven't been to the Oliver University yet, it is a great place to see articles and videos. And, of course, have fun poking around here on the Forum for all sorts of ideas of ways to make that "new" 2018 all yours. Finally, feel free to ask questions - there are a bunch of folks here that are more than willing to help. Bill

Not sure about your opinion....I had it repaired by the Girard service center. The awning motor did not burn up. It still operated forward and reverse. The issue according to the Girard tech was the "brake/engagement sprocket" located on the end of the motor. This "sprocket/motor" is made/sold as a unit....they chose to replace the motor unit. I went with their advice. When the work was completed, they ran the awning in and out a few times to show me it was extending and closing correctly and how to adjust it if necessary. They did not mention any kind of "rest period". Stevecr

Just wanted to check in and let everyone know the Chill Cube with Heat Pump is now available at United RV Parts in Texas. Looks exactly like the Chill Cube (not low profile). I should have mine installed today! I'm following instructions posted by @jd1923 and everything is going well. I was even able to get the old Dometic off the roof by myself by leaning an 8' step ladder against the street side and carefully sliding it down. Having the top of the step ladder near the edge of the roof made it easy to slowly work it off onto the ladder. The gasket on the bottom of the unit also helps to offer some resistance on the way down. I have the Dometic Penguin II (low hours, works perfectly) on FB Marketplace in Central Florida if anyone needs a replacement. Can't wait to get this Chill Cube fired up!

Wife, puppy, and I just bought hull 327, a 2018 LE2, and are bringing her from Arizona to her new home in the Lost Sierras/Lake Davis CA. We’ve owned a coleman pop-up, and a big 5th wheel with slides in our past life… and after TONS of research (including understanding how bomb-proof ocean-crossing fiberglass sailboats are constructed), we couldn’t be more impressed with the quality of the Oliver trailers. Looking forward to seeing ya’ll out there!

The latest and greatest Battle Born saga: Will Prowse’s response to Battle Born’s technical note confirming their batteries are working perfectly!

This is my post last on this subject. It seems unreasonable to believe that the name and location an auto parts store on a medium sized island in Puget Sound is going to be helpful to anyone else this list. It does seem reasonable to believe that you are demanding "show me." I decline.