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I agree with JD's thoughts and recommendations. The rear gray water valve is a bear to take apart. But it appears that your problem likely is the vent valve up front. I would add that if the valve is not closing there could be two causes. The valve is partially clogged. That can turn into a mess for sure to also deal with. I would approach it this way: Step 1: First try servicing all your cables as in the below DIY. Such a DIY is long overdue for your hull 99. Mine was and it is 342. That process may result in the valve clog getting mushed and then flow down to the dump station. If that does not fix the try Step 2. Step 2: At a dump station, from inside, flood the gray water lines with a LOT of water. Use your pump hot water at both sinks. Then try max flow with the pump and a garden hosed flowing into the bathroom sink. Suggest having a watchful eyed helper. Step 3: Send a garden hose with the end cut off it from the rear of the trailer to see if you can clear it that way. Be sure to open the gray valve outside to clear the pathway. Step 4: Consider getting help with a camera inspection. Hope this helps. GJ DIY - Sanitary Drain Valve Cables.docx

Norcold Fridge Parts I'm replacing my defunct Norcold fridge from a 2020 Oliver II build with a Nova Kool. Someone was looking for the Norcold burner, but I can't find the PM or thread. If still interested, reach out. Available - NEW main circuit board and New Optical board, if anyone would like a spare or just needs one. (Ended up needing control panel...unobtainium_ Other parts I should salvage for anyone, that is worth your shipping cost from 78255?

Yes it is and certainly worth the stop even if you "thing" isn't necessarily military vehicles. This is a world class museum located about 7 miles east of Dubois. And, they are expanding (again) - soon to open will be what looks to be a fairly nice motel (on the east side of the museum) and (RV lot?) something on the west side too. Bill

Thread passed 1,000 replies! Congrats to everyone on such a great thread!

@topgun2 Interesting museum in Dubois WY https://nmmv.org/ Bill 313

Box Creek This is one of my favorites! It's a decommissioned Forest Service campground with pit toilet, non-potable water and no dump. Also, it is free. Box Creek is located off Buffalo Valley Road, West of Moran Junction, WY. PM me for GPS. Note that the campground was decommissioned due to bear activity. Even though I've only observed one black bear in camp I never venture outside the Oliver without some type of protection.

In our TX heat this summer, the good old Norcold really struggles. On hot days in the sun, I open/remove the lower hatch and place an electric fan on a small folding table to blow into the lower space kinda aiming the fan up a bit. This is the little table we use. This is the fan we use (we think the Vornado's are worth their premium price). In addition, we have installed computer style fans in the upper section. Our 2019 LEII has a baffle that directs the air flow out of the upper opening. Looks like yours is missing or they did not use them at the time of your build. I've attached a copy of the manual. The "N" code is for no cooling, which can require resetting the power board (see page 24 in manual). Hope this helps! Norcold N41x_ N51x_SM.pdf

Trail Lake Road, East of Dubois, WY Note that this is a free boondocking site with decent pit toilet but no dump or water (other than what is in the lake/stream.

Horse Creek, north of Dubois, WY

There are many on Amazon, and several on other place outside of Amazon. My problem is finding one high enough customer ratings, that has a large enough sample size to give statistical significance. Found one with 125 reviews, but I didn't like the rating number, and the comments on the reviews. I found one that had 4s and 5s on the reviews and all of the reviews were good. Problem is that there were only 24 reviews. I may take a chance and go with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GLF9D2LD/?coliid=IHZS5CRM8MBZM&colid=27T05FXN4KH1E&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it Our dog has all of the standard shots and my wife keeps good records. We usually do NOT Border the dog, So we haven't done the Bordetella (kennel cough) vaccination. There is a large nice RV parks for the 55 and older that requires them. Going to Canada we probably would not need then But I may do The shot just to be safe.

I missed this comment, yeah you're good. The two of us two engineers checking each other's work! 😎 Along with all the communicating members of our great OTT Forum! Team collaboration is the essence of problem solving! 😂 You'll have the leaf tie plates out again, so you can drill them on your workbench or vise. You're right, a Dremel doesn't work very well with heavy stock. You may have trouble finding a 19/32" or 5/8" bit. What I would do is get the plates in a vise, drill them through with the 9/16" bit and see how they may fit. Then in the correct direction push-n-pull the drill left-n-right while drilling to oval out the holes enough to smoothy fit your new U-bolts. The U-bolts come with HD washers so you'll be good. Get everything to fit well on the workbench before climbing under that trailer again! It keeps getting harder to kneel down and climb up off the driveway or garage floor. I will not lower myself with kneepads or a cushion and a steel milk crate to push myself back up on my feet! 🤣

You definitely are one, I asked to double check my math as we make these kinds of mistakes all the time. Long time ago I worked on a probe that went to Mars, except it didn’t because of a math glitch (not mine 😅) I’ve got a Dremel, too much hogging for me, would have been a good idea to bring along though. I’ll just drill out, it’s only 1/32 larger on each side which is well within tolerance. Don’t have my right angle but will check how it is with the impact in drill mode Yes I called it out at the end of the post - am I missing something? The picture shows it now with a rough fit, I didn’t do anything special yet and am planning on making sure it’s aligned before final torque (this was just how I left it after the hard work). But thanks for emphasizing the point, I’ll make sure to keep good tolerances

I pride myself on being the engineer/mathematician! Obviously not this time! 🤣 You're right it's only a 1/16" diff which may be negligible. Drill to 9/16" and you may have to use a Dremel or something on the outside arc if it doesn't quite fit. I didn't need to do anything, except I steel-brushed and painted them, LOL! I had 9/16" U-bolts installed on D35 axles installed 10 years ago by OTT. I replaced them with new U-bolts of the same size. Did OTT really cheap out on this part?!? They upgraded from D35 to D52 axles while they downgraded from 9/16" to 1/2" U-bolts. This doesn't make sense at all! Dan, make sure you didn't miss the meaning of this statement.

Hello Ron, with the 2015 hull #99, very nice! 😎 There's not a plumbing diagram that would help. My understanding is if the waste valve is closed the pop-up shower floor valve really doesn't matter. If you want to replace it anyway, maybe somebody here knows the make and part number or inquire with OTT. You know, if you close the "back flow" valve when the Oliver nose is down, there would be grey water in the plumbing that would then come out when towing. Make sure your front jack is lifted when you're closing. We use the LevelMatePRO and always have our front up 1/2" or more when camped. We close the bathroom valve before releasing the jacks to tow. During travel, I use the kitchen sink to wash my hands to leave that valve alone. If you open the valve with the nose down with Grey Tank on the full side, water can back up to the plumbing under the shower that you may see later. Given all this, if it's still leaking on the shower floor, your waste valve could be jammed up, not closing fully. With the tanks empty, remove the valve and give it a good cleaning and lube. Under the front dinette seat, it's the 2" line at the top of the picture. The 4" is the black water drain and you might want to service that at the same time. The main Grey waste valve is under streetside bed, jammed against the floor where the two lower screws are VERY difficult to remove. I serviced ours last year since the pull handles were getting very hard to pull. This thread may be of interest. Best wishes, JD https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10711-waste-valves-restoration-and-upgrade/

OK, check me on this So each bolt side has a diameter 1/16 bigger, 8/16 to 9/16 The radius therefore is 1/32 larger That’s the increase on the inner side (facing axel) and outer, each So each new hole is 1/32 farther away from the old hole Between the two holes it’s therefore 1/16 larger, not 1/8 If I’m doing my Imperial right, by training I’m a metric guy 😅 Regardless of moving each hole 1/8 or 1/16 any drill bit would wander, I’d need an end mill I think - what did you use? Anyhow these have big washers, the tire side holes are big ovals anyhow so I’m not going to worry about it And yes on the spacing thanks, aware of that, this is just the rough fit

Yeah, I must admit our Glacier NP trip was in June and during the Montana Centennial celebration, two good reasons to bring crowds of visitors. But it was 40 years ago! And it was our first experience visiting a western NP. Our Forum friend who just visited Glacier went at a much better time of year, when the kids are "back to school." 😎 Thinking of a Montana-Idaho trip next spring. We will want to see Grand Teton NP and Yellowstone on the way. If it's too crowded, we'll make it quick and then find great campsites to the north. Beautiful places that nobody has ever heard of! 🤣

Hello, I am hoping that someone can provide a diagram of the shower plumbing. I want to replace the pop up drain washer and a looking for the right washer to replace it with. We have had several instances when traveling that the shower pan backs up with dirty water and yes the back flow valve is closed. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you Ron

I replaced the entire Oliver suspension: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/11055-full-suspension-replacement-alcan-spring-and-dexter-d52-axles/ The original D35 axles and the new D52 axles both were 3" dia. Also the OEM D35 axles had 9/16" U-bolts and wet bolts. So, no leaf plate modification was necessary. To be certain, I just measured. The old U-bolts measured .55" at the threads and .52" at the top of the U. If they were 1/2" bolts these numbers would be closer to .49". Here's what I mean. Given your leaf plates have 1/2" holes with a 3" spacing between the holes, when you drill out the 1/2" holes to be 9/16" the spacing between will then be 2 7/8". You have to create a 9/16" hole keeping the 3" spacing between. A simple hand drill cannot do this. Also CAUTION! In your picture, I see light between the leaf stack and your U-bolts. When you replace these with the 9/16" bolts, make sure the U-bolts are positioned straight up at 90 degrees and they must be touching the leaf springs when torqued.

Just realized this statement! That's a good idea which should protect the batteries. Please post a link if you believe you found a quality product. We haven't made the trip, so no real experience. I remember reading something on our Forum regarding pets. Our Springer "Charley" is 12 years old and his health records are not exactly up-to-date! Perhaps something to look into if you travel with pets..

Here’s what I mean, there’s precious little room left anyhow, at best I can widen it up a step from 1/2” to 9/16” Interesting to see the bolts stretching already. And these do so on the sides while the stock ones flattened out on the top bend

Yeah that’s what OTT is using and we just kind of went with it, me not knowing any better. Now $180 later … anyhow I’ll be much happier with 90 on 9/16, this 65 just ain’t cutting it. On the plates the hole spacing is already correct at 3” - those 1/2” are holding it together right now (remember OTT now has 5200 axels as standard). I think you upgraded your axels at the same time if I recall? Yes you mention still having the 3500 axels. In that case it sounds like you were using plates from the smaller axel for the larger so they’d need new holes. In this case I may (he said it depends it might be fine, its pretty close) just need to enlarge them a bit. So a 9/16” bit would center on the hole and just hog it out somewhat. I’ll put some anti-rust on it before buttoning up.

Yep!

Hey Dan, wow 1/2" U-bolts, really? I don't remember modifying the leaf plates! If this is true, you cannot merely drill 9/16" over the 1/2" hole because the space between the holes needs to be equal to the axle diameter. You'd have to have a decent drill press, clamp the plate down and drill the new holes off-center to the original holes. You could drill 5/8" holes instead, but that would be sloppy and I don't know about you but I have a couple 9/16" bits on hand but not 5/8" which would be an expensive bit to purchase these days. When I'm out at my shed this afternoon, I'm going to see what was on our hull OEM. I kept all the old parts to sell the suspension used if possible (figure there's got to be some guy in the neighborhood building a homemade ATV trailer). Cheap Dexter 1750 leafs and 3500 LB axles are not enough to carry the Oliver, but would be great for an ATV trailer (upgraded with Timken bearings)! 🤣 Here's the spec sheet Alcan gave me when I purchased my package in person. 90 ft-lbs for the 9/16" U-bolts, 80 for the end wet bolts and 65 for the shackle wet bolts.

Aiieeeeeeee!!!! Just called Alcan for a quick ship of eight new 9/16” bolts. OTT is still going on the low side with these suspensions and installing 1/2” on a 3” 5200 which is specced to 1750. I’ve got five leaf Alcan’s on the the same 5200 axels so should have gone 9/16” but it got lost in translation. Yeah I kept looking at those bolts against the springs/axels and especially that torque setting feels way too low. Anyhow they are helpful as usual, he thought I was right on to upgrade the bolts. He mentioned by the way that Oliver is only using Alcan on the Apex - the others are business as usual. He also warned me that the plate will need to be widened a bit to accept the larger bolts. I asked about how much work this would be - should I disassemble? He suggested just doing one bolt at a time. Told him that’s what I wanted to do but worried it was too much redneck mechanic - to which he said “well that must be what we are because that’s what we do!” 😅 So easy upgrade Thanks @jd1923 for helping on that, wouldn’t have caught it without checking your torque number

Wut? Here’s my spec sheet My U-Bolts are 1/2” on 5200 axels. They had said most Olivers use 7/16” u-bolts but checking mine turned out to be the 1/2 which is 65 ft-lbs. 90 would be 9/16” - is that what you got? Ahhhhh dang - yup, looking over my emails that’s what Alcan recommended, 9/16. But OTT installed 1/2” and so that’s what we went with. I’d feel a more comfortable with the 9/16, 65 on 1/2 is too low. I’ll call them and order a new set, grrrrr ….