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When the Apex was first announced I looked up the specs on the Houghton 48v units and compared it to the numbers I see from running my Turbro. I'll have to go back and re-check the numbers.

Chris, I like the idea, but why is this true?

You will appreciate the "memory" feature whereby they remember their last state, dim level, night light, on/off, etc.. With the original touch lights I would have to turn off all of the ones that I didn't want on whenever I turned the master power switch on when arriving at a campground. The new lights remember their previous setting.

Slow elk…😇

Understated

Clearly designed for the Overload Overland community. IMO, the blackout theme detracts from an elegant travel trailer in an effort to reach out to the Overload crowd. The suspension upgrades seem reasonable, and I like the new hitch. A concern with the 48 VDC system is what I believe to be a single point of failure at the power management controller. The older I get, the more I want simple systems. We just bought a new 4Runner, and the dash and multi media features almost had me returning it with less than 200 miles. We will stay with Hull 364, and do gradual upgrades as needed. The batteries and refrigerator are on the list

Sorry for all the hassle getting to the source of these brake problems. If it helps - I was thinking of you yesterday as I fished the Middle Fork of the Wood River. Bill

Not a bad life first thing in the morning. However, they seem to like scratching their faces on the rear bumper at 5:30 in the morning!

Welcome! I initially towed with at Tacoma as well. It didn’t take long to upgrade to a half ton. Will be interested in how it goes for you. Mike

Yep, obviously the Ah is Ah, but what I was trying to say is that running an inverter A/C off of 12v batteries though an inverter is more efficient than the Houghton 48v running directly off of the 48v battery.

I would like to see pictures of the bathroom door being installed in current production models. Can someone with the newer style door please post a few pictures? If you can find a manufacturer label please post a picture of that also. Bill

Congratulations and welcome to the Oliver world!! Many good times ahead, I am sure.

So, you're not glamping, but we sure are! 🤣 I would say an OEM Oliver, one purchased without any lithium package, little to no owner mods/upgrades, yes that shiny fiberglass is only skin deep. Leaky windows, the Dometic P2 A/C and with other OTT installation issues, it is hard to be comfortable. Glamping means comfort! Yeah, the G is for Glamour, but nobody is glamorous parked in a campground or anywhere else without all the creature comforts you desire! When you seriously upgrade the Oliver, at some point you're no longer roughing it! To start with, throw out the little $89 TV that OTT installed and replace it with a Samsung 32" 4K TV monitor, on a better mount and add a soundbar. Then correct the awful furnace ducting, vent the closet, bath and basement, and do something about those leaky windows! And it will take a while to move all those misplaced switches, water valves and breakers out from under the beds! And speaking of beds, all the OEM cushions and mattresses are way too basic to be glamping. The next item going to the junkyard is the common RV microwave (I use a Craig's Free Stuff ad and a driveway full of stuff is gone in hours)! A small Emeril Air Fryer fits there perfectly. We have 6 ways to cook indoors and outside, including the dual-burner Napoleon grill/griddle, cooking on the fire ring, a mini pressure cooker and an induction cooktop. Not hotdogs and smores, but glamorous meals for sure. It's not glamping when you get stuck somewhere making life uncomfortable. Or you can't use the bathroom or run the A/C while on the road or taking a break. Got to have freshwater tanks full, the one onboard and 35 gallons extra in the TV for if/when needed. With two 30# LP tanks full, 900 Ah LiFePO4, 720W solar, a 50A DC-DC charger topped off with the Victron MP2 3KVA inverter/charger, we can be VERY comfortable for a week or more and even throw some loss sole a 10 AWG extension cord to power their trailer overnight. And of course, remove the old-school rooftop cameras and nobody uses Wi-Fi repeaters anymore, or campground cable or Wi-Fi, OMG! Got to add a cellular router and antenna and the Starlink Mini is a must. Can't be glamping if you're not online 24x7! Then you could be riding on the lame Oliver OEM suspension or upgrade it with new D52 axles, Alcan Springs, Bulldog shocks and speaking of Bulldog upgrade the hitch coupler too. I can't believe OTT went with the 4-leaf Alcan Springs on this odd X23! Just so they could derate it to a 7k suspension? The tires are so out-of-place on the white egg! My forecast, OTT stops making the X23 after 2 years of meager sales. There are several REAL off-road trailers in the marketplace, and if that's what you want, it's not an Oliver. Some old guy said, after having a knee replacement, "I should have done this years ago!" Just like those of you who have that freight-train-engine sounding Dometic P2 still sitting rooftop! Even if you claim, "We hardly use it." You're fooling yourself and either way, once is enough! Our Chill Cube keeps the cabin cool on battery for 3 full days with daily highs of 94F outside! And at nighttime when outside temps drop, you can hardly hear it running while it's sipping 2Ah. Why did I wait 2 years? This is only the half of it and then there's the TV! I won't bore you with the technical details but the 45L CFX5 fridge in the truck bed never runs out of cold drinking water in our desert. With room for new groceries, it's much easier than adding to the fridge inside. Pantry full and closet floor lined with adult beverages and soft drinks, craft cubes in the freezer - yes, we're glamping! I was 3 nights camping in The Valley for a major sinus surgery. Everything I needed to recoup was at arm's length, only a few paces to the bathroom, truly all the comforts of home. Spending nights in a hotel was not an option, not near the comfort. Love our Oliver!😎 Our first RV was a 39' Fleetwood Discovery diesel pusher with 3 slides. Thought the way to go, was to go BIG! It had the big screen TV, but otherwise, it was awful. The Class-A is only comfortable on US Interstates and large paved lots in RV Parks and must have 50A service. If you get stuck, you have to run the generator because unless you spend another $50K in solar and lithium, all you power you have unplugged is enough to reheat up a cup of coffee in the microwave! Don't try big city streets or much in dirt roads. Only ex-truck drivers are comfortable in a Class-A. BTW, generators and glamping do not mix. 🤣 So, when you're done with all these electrical and mechanical system upgrades, you gotta make it look as good outside as it runs inside. We know it, but it's the only way people will know we're glamping too! 😎

UPDATE July 8, 2026: I arrived in Cimarron NM two weeks ago. On June 28th, I connected my TV to my friend's Oliver 7-pin and didn't get any error messages. I was not able to tow her Oliver though, because she is fully connected and set up in camp -- so this was not a definitive test. On July 3rd, I towed my trailer to Eagle Nest -- the TV dash warning lights came on within a mile, and my TT brakes were not working for part of the haul through Cimarron Canyon. They worked, then didn’t, and then they worked again. That is all the same as before. Today July 8th, my friend's schedule opened up and she was able to come hook up to my Oliver to test towing my trailer with her new Dodge Ram. She drove around for about an hour, trying to simulate conditions (I have noticed a lot of the time my warning messages come after I have been over rough road surface, or else after braking for a traffic light). We had no warning messages. After towing for about 10 miles (maybe 40 minutes), we stopped on a pull-out and reached out to @jd1923 who talked us through his testing method with the clamp ammeter. (Luckily, my friend has a clamp ammeter; mine is not a clamp style and I think mine would require penetrating or cutting the wires to test them.) Here are my notes: I struggled to pull the emergency breakaway pin out of the socket. John suggested a wrench and hard tug, not on the cable but on the pin. I used a wrench on the looped end of the pin, and it broke off. The pin itself was still inserted. (I did manage to get the pin out, which engaged the emergency brakes.) With the emergency breakaway pin still engaged, the ammeter showed 0.02 on the front street side wire. Once I was able to pull the emergency breakaway, this front street side wire read 6.60 (as expected); the street side back read 6.39 (about the same); then I measured the curb side front and it was 2.89 (as expected). I couldn’t get the clamp ammeter to fit between the shocks and the drum in order to measure the rear curb side, but these measurements seem to show power (from the emergency brake battery) running through the wires. I believe that this is not a definitive test. For one thing, the trailer is sitting still, not bouncing along the road, so there could still be an issue with worn brake wires inside the axles (or somewhere else). But it was worth testing, and without any error messages in my friend’s truck, it seemed more likely an issue on the TV side. She continued to tow my Oliver back toward my campground. At two stop signs, she used the gain control to see if my trailer brakes were working (and they were.) Then, as she braked on the highway to slow down and pull into my campground, the brakes seized up (or… something). She felt as though the trailer brakes quit working and that the Oliver was pushing her truck. I felt (though I wasn’t driving) that my brakes had seized — I heard the tires skidding on the road. As soon as we pulled into the campground, she used the gain control to test and the trailer brakes were indeed working. I could only see out my side, but the curb side wheels were turning, not dragging or seized up. We unhitched, and tried plugging the 7 pin into my truck — no error messages. At this point, a storm was coming down and the wind was picking up, so I put down my stabilizer jacks and got Oliver settled into the space. When I opened the door to my Oliver, I could smell burning rubber (I am pretty sure); no smell or smoke from under the aft dinette seat, and the wind was blowing so hard that the smell from outside was already dissipated. We looked at the highway and could see the skid marks — apparently only one tire, on the street side. Tomorrow I will raise the wheels and try to determine which tire it was. And then I will try to find and purchase a new Breakaway Emergency Brake switch and pin; I think there is one available in Raton (about an hour northeast of here). ** I don't know why my photos don't seem to show up correctly. This happens to me sometimes, but I am too tired to worry about it now. EDIT: I was able to insert them later, using my phone. **

I thought it was “all boots” but - I’m not a native Texan. 😂

Not sure if this is the same one we bought. Also from Amazon (where all good things come from) and has a physical pushbutton as well. As @Boilermaker Chemist notes - a real ‘switch’ means that when the power is off - it’s off. With the touch light, they’re always “on” and waiting to sense your finger. We had some weird ‘on’ conditions on the same (over the sink) light that preceded full failure: flickering, inconsistent operating, half-brightness. That kind of behavior always worries me. Maybe it’s obvious, but the most frequently used fixtures are the ones failing. I wouldn’t expect that with a “switch” that shouldn’t “wear out”. Of course, the second most commonly-used light - over the dinette - is showing signs of failure. Luckily, the package from Amazon had two lamps. Replacement as @Boilermaker Chemist describes are similar to my experience - except I did soldered splices with heat shrink tubing to insulate.

The Apex X23: All hat and no cattle as the saying goes.

We’ve been accused of “glamping” because we have a nice trailer. I’ve heard of ‘glamping’ obviously, but didn’t think we qualified. Now, if you’re cruising around in one of those 4mpg 40 foot coaches with a laundry room, hot tub, 4 slides and a 50” TV - THAT’s “glamping”.

Our old/original lock has an obnoxiously loud lock/unlock sound. The new one is much more subtle. It even had voice guidance. Just putting batteries in gives you a “Welcome to RVLock!” Anyway, it’s the only part of the “Electronics Package” I’d buy again. I actually just disconnected the power from the cell booster. We keep spare bedding in that compartment - and having anything remotely flammable pressed against something that looks like a heatsink is obviously worrisome.

Like many others, I had to replace one of my touch lights because it went “wonky”. For the replacement, I purchased the 3000K Obeaming RV Interior Ceiling Dome Light 4.5 Inch from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZDM19W?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1_1&th=1 In the hope that it might help others, here are a few things that I observed during the repair. The light that failed was over the sink. Since the original light was fastened with rivets, I used a 1/8” drill to remove the old rivets. Apparently there is another layer of fiberglass inside the overhead cabinet that would have had to be removed to get access to the rivets. So I just used a needle punch to push the rivets out of their holes without bothering to retrieve them. After removal, I cut the wires close to the old light. The wiring was about 20 gage, so I used small wire nuts to connect the new light. Note: make sure you rewire based on polarity and not color. In my case, the black wire on the old light was positive but the black wire on the new light was negative. I wrapped the connections with silicone tape to prevent the wire nuts from loosening up. There was enough room to stuff all of the wiring back in. As luck would have it, the mounting holes on the new light were a nearly perfect match to the old one, so no new holes needed to be drilled. I used 1/8” x 3/8” rivets to fasten the new light in place. I like that the new light has its own push button switch. Hopefully that will help prevent it from getting “wonky” :-).

Great story! It's exactly why I'm a big RVlock fanboy! They are an underrated convenience. I can't count all the extra steps we've saved from having to fetch the elusive keys! I'm totally fine with my failures, I blame it on living in the great northwet rainforrest, where it even rains in my garage. I respect how they've used the failures to refine a more reliable and better quality product. The last free upgrade they sent looks well sealed, should last a long time! Their outstanding customer response is reason enough for me to be faithful to the brand! Besides, they're great looking too! They compliment the Olivers modern hi- tech look, and the neighbors are always impressed! Love the sound effects!

Welp, after first talking to Anita in 2021 and putting maybe 30k miles on the microminnie we ended up with, we paid for an X23 build slot today. We live in SETX and have been scheming for an Oliver for a while now. Did the factory tour 2 years ago. We should be taking delivery during our annual trip to Tenn. to see family. Decided to skip thr solar awning -- spider sense tells me we'd break it somehow. We'll catch flack, but we'll be using our 3rd gen Tacoma as a TV for a good while. No plans for mountains, and when we do we'll get a full-size. We live in SETX, and it is _flat_ here.

Yep, that's about it! They're just for looks. Besides A/C efficiency... Ah = Ah! 🤣 He already converted the 100 Ah 48v battery to be equivalent to 400 Ah on a 12V system. 600+ Ah on 12V is 200+ Ah better. One problem that can occur in a 48V RV system, is when the 48/12 DC-DC converter fails, you cannot use your trailer jacks, any cabin lighting, the CO detector, USB chargers, the fail-safe for the trailer brakes and every other 12VDC device (unless they also integrate a 12V battery).

Wow, two new members just today - Welcome!

I agree. I did some napkin math when the specs first came out and it seemed to make much more sense to have 600-900ah of 12v over 400ah of 48v and run everything though either 12v or the inverter. Even the AC efficiency came out better running a 120v inverter compressor unit over the 48v Houghton unit, especially at the lower BTU rating of the 48v Houghton.