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Dean, WOW! I've seen some strange wiring but what happened here? Did they run out of buses on install day? The installer just bolts everything to the breaker, OMG! 🤣 BTW, this is the famous Optifuse! Many of these have failed, so that OTT has stopped using them! Search the Forum for keyword Optifuse. I'd be surprised if this isn't the answer to the issue of this thread, since everything not working, lights, jacks etc. is connected to this breaker. Do yourself a favor with your upgrade and replace the Optifuse breaker with an 60A ANL fuse and holder. Oh, and add a +bus, LOL! Back in 2016, OTT used Bussman breakers (at least on our hull). They installed a 40A for all 12VDC lighting, jacks, etc. (pictured above) and a 30A Bussman for the rooftop solar. Keeping things standard, I purchased a 35A Bussman breaker to protect the Victron MPPT 100|30 SC that I added for our 400W Renogy suitcase solar. Three Bussman breakers, 2 of them 11 years old, the new one 2 years old, no issues. ANL fuses are more reliable as you certainly know when they are blown (always have a spare). Fuses will blow when there's too much current on either side of the fuse. Breakers are directional, so they only protect on the load side of the breaker. I have no idea what your two black wires are on the source side of your breaker. Trace them back if you can. If not, I'd wire them to a new bus with everything else. I have no wires before a breaker anywhere, meaning power to the breakaway switch on our hull does pass though the 40A breaker (OTT had not wired this to code). I know the breakaway switch works because I pull it to test for amperage to the brakes. When I moved these breakers to the dinette area, I found the wiring from the jack fuses to all 3 jacks ran towards the dinette area first (was surprised since one jack is right there and the curbside jack is another direction). I removed all that excess wire and removed 3 butt connectors on each of the 3 wires along the way. I crimped one fresh butt connector on each of 3 much shorter wires to clean things up. 😎

Does this mean the "fuse is good?" it's certainly not a conclusive test and it doesn't mean there's a 12V source connected to the breaker. +12V on the source side of the breaker shows you have connection to the batteries. +12V on the load side shows the breaker is closed providing a power connection to the bus. A dead (or disconnected) converter will only keep you from recharging batteries when connected to shore power. A running converter is not required to operate lights, the jacks or anything else 12VDC. Converter status is independent of these 12V loads getting power from the batteries.

Imelda, Thanks for the update, and I’m glad you’re able to get home with things as they are. Just a quick reminder—the jacks don’t receive their power from the converter, but more of a direct connection from the batteries through the 60 amp Optifuse shown in my above image.

i am at a camping site and will be home tomorrow better for me to do the trouble shooting at home. the batteries read 13.4V so they are ok. i did have a battery shut of switch that I installed. i didn’t think it was the problem but i took it out just in case and connected directly to the battery terminal. no circuit breaker on the battery i was thinking of adding it myself thanks for the wiring diagram and pointing out a ground source. I was just going to run a ground wire directly from the battery just to be sure i had a good ground for the trouble shooting. the 60A fuse is good just checking the low resistance ( not the voltage but I will) across it. i am starting to suspect the converter. as when I left I had trouble with the tongue jack not working and then it did when i switched my battery switch on and off.

Saw 2 more Ollie's on my trip out east last week. Both on i90 headed east. 1 had snow flake decals all down the side.

They have a Lambert’s outside of Gulf Shores Alabama on route 59.. great family style , love the throwing of the rolls.. was there back in 2019…. I saw it on one of the food network shows.. Thanks nice to know about campground..

My wife and I lived in St. Louis for 25 years. During that time we heard about and saw advertisements for a restaurant in the southern part of Missouri but never thought that the drive (1.5 to 2 hours) was worth it for just a meal. Besides, a restaurant that relies on "throwed rolls" in their advertisements simply can't be all that good when it comes to what matters - the food. Over the past few years of returning to Western North Carolina from the Western mountains where I fly fish each summer, I've stopped at the Mothership in Hohenwald. This takes me down interstate 55 from Saint Louis and the restaurant mentioned above is located in Sikeston, Missouri just west of exit 67. So, this year I decided to make a stop at: Lambert's 2305 East Malone GPS: 36.887912, -89.546457 Lambert's has an RV park right next to the restaurant where all sites have electric and water and there is a central dump - per night rate of $45. However, while convenient to the restaurant, there are few trees (sites 8 and 9 will provide some shade) and there is no bath house. On the positive side, if needed they will come to your site and provide you with transportation to the restaurant, or, deliver your food ordered via a phone to your site. If you desire shade and/or a bath house and a slightly lower camp site price, there is Hinton's RV Park located just East of Interstate 55 at GPS: 36.893962, -89.527317. The food is basically standard American fare - think of Cracker Barrel ON STERIODS. Indeed, they come out from the kitchen area and announce the arrival of fresh rolls and then start throwing them towards anyone wanting one. Note here that if you don't catch your roll on the first or second throw, they then bring it over to you and place it on your plate. As with virtually everything else served, the rolls are large and tasty. They also have a couple of people wandering through the dining area serving out "2nds, 3rds, 4ths, etc." of a couple of "sides". Prices are reasonable and the service is very good. I was told that while the dining area is very large, it can be VERY crowded particularly on the weekends. I was there on a Monday at about 5pm and had no difficulty being seated. Bill

I think if anyone is getting kicked out it will be me. I just re-sealed the Maxx Fan and used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant - Fast Cure 4000 UV. Found it very easy to work with... used painters tape about 3/16" from the edge and ran the bead very easy. While I was doing that... I started thinking... Damn this stuff is WHITE! I mean like BRIGHT WHITE.... Then the light bulb went off and just a little dab over the caulk in the old drill holes and it is now an acceptable level of whiteness for Donna. So, no one has to sleep outside. Looking forward to seeing you at the Rally. Maybe you will give us a quick tour of the new battery system. #145 goes in to Easton in November. Scotty

Everyone's comments here on the Forum concerning the return of a "Classified Section" are appreciated. However, while some of the Oliver personnel view the Forum from time to time, I believe that the person(s) that will make the final decision on this subject probably only view the Forum on rare occasion. Therefore, any comments that any of us have on this subject (for or against) will be most effective if directed to Jason Essary and/or Scott Oliver at: 228 Industrial Ave Hohenwald, TN 38462

jd, thanks for sharing the photo of your original 12‑volt distribution. It’s definitely cleaner than what my original setup looks like. I’ve attached a photo of mine—minus the 8‑gauge input wire. I’m in the middle of replacing everything and wanted a picture before I completely disassemble it. On my install, there are two wires on the input side of the Optifuse (not counting the main 8‑gauge battery feed that’s been removed). I haven’t traced them yet, but I suspect one may be for the breakaway switch. I don’t want to hijack the thread until the main issue is resolved, but identifying these wires would save me some time. I know that the heavy red wire on the output side goes to the converter and the three jack fuses are also easily identified, but I have not traced the others out. As for troubleshooting the thread creators main problem, a ground can also be found on the inverter chassis for your voltmeter. I hope all is going well and solution has been found. Dean

Topgun2: Maybe in the future we’d be interested in organizing a regional rally, but right now life is just too busy—and we still feel a bit too new to the Oliver group. Thanks for sharing the information.

We also found our new-to-us Oliver on the Facebook page. And it was only 35 miles away . We second (or third) @jd1923's idea of a dedicated used parts section. This wouldn't take away from Oliver trailer sales and would be a great benefit for owners.

I used white plastic hole plugs similar to below when I changed out my A/C. I actually had to enlarge the holes to get the smallest one's to fit. You don't really notice them but if you do, they just like part of the installation. I was concerned that if I tried to fill the holes, I wouldn't be able to reproduce the glossy finish of the gel coat and that would be more noticeable. https://www.amazon.com/Tnisesm-Plastic-Knockout-Locking-Furniture/dp/B0C3H1J6M8

Me too. Anyone want to buy a Oliver EII convection/microwave? Only used twice. Like new.

The tank gauge is notoriously inaccurate. Did Oliver Service say if this has ever happened before? I bet you have some kind of defect in that tank.

Would Donna be amenable to sleeping outside? That way she wouldn't notice. Just Kidding..........

Did you see the manual? It’s got over a dozen diagrams in it, I just did a snip of one of them. Most of the circuits are shown.

Good observation and question! OTT installed an ANL fuse in our hull but only between B+ on the batteries and the inverter. They had a separate 8 AWG wire running from the batteries to the breaker in question for everything 12VDC. New batteries installed, the tech could have changed anything, moved the DC source after the OEM ANL fuse (that's what I did with our Victron inverter upgrade). Or maybe they installed a new one to protect new batteries. Did they install a battery compartment cut-off switch that failed or got turned off accidently? Yes, got to, got to test for voltage! First at the batteries. Then before and after the breaker. If an inverter is installed, is there 12VDC on the 4/0 wire at the inverter connection (after ANL fuse). Any 12VDC to the 12V side of the fuse panel at all? Batteries dead, switch turned off, main fuse blown, 60A breaker defective? It's one of these. Get a ground wire in place and this can be a quick find with the voltmeter. First time I've seen this schematic. Thanks for sharing. Too bad they don't show the important 12VDC stuff! They show the DC fuse panel in the attic but not the main 12V panel. They show all the 12V charging ports, USB ports, but none of the important 12VDC runs, to the fridge, the fans, furnace and all the stuff that matters. They don't share wiring diagrams since installations change often. OTT is a small batch custom house. They don’t have the development practices, nor the configuration management systems to automate publishing schematics annually. It’s a whole lot of bookkeeping otherwise and time better spent is in creating their/our beautiful fiberglass! Sure would be nice to have these main appliances diagrammed and what about all those light switches? 🤣

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/oliver-university/ The best wiring diagram I can find is in the 2019 manual. See link to Oliver University. Many of us have appealed to OTT unsuccessfully for wiring diagrams. I saw a previous post from you that indicated you had LiTime batteries installed by a technician. Did they by chance install an ANL fuse or a circuit breaker? If so, that should be checked. What is the voltage of your batteries? It should show on your solar controller and also your See Level display.

The coldest we have camped is 15 degrees a few nights in a row. We opened the drive side basement hatch/lid in the dinning seat to allow warm air into this unheated area and ran a dehumitifier. Each day the temps were above freezing. In these conditions our Oliver preformed very well. We have never spent time below freezing 24/7 for running days. If we were to camp in below freezing day and night for an extend time as we are currently setup, we would to blow out the water lines, empty gray, black and fresh water tanks and use water jugs for our water source. Maybe 30+ years ago, I would have considered this a good time. Several Oliver owners have modified the weak areas of heating and or insolation i.e basement/outside shower, batteries and the bathroom trailer nose. Solutions I have read about in this forum are adding insolation, running heat duct down the drivers side basement from heating system and pulling the outside shower inside the hull. I believe Oliver's double hull gives you the best change to set up for true winter camping. I'm thinking there isn't such a thing as a full fuctioning true winter camping trailer ready to go off the showroom floor.

First I’ll confess that I have no knowledge of how your trailer is equipped, or how it's wired. However, you have given enough clues to narrow it down: You likely have a 30 or 45 amp converter/charger that's an internal module of the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC distribution panel. The 60 amp breaker is likely a direct feed from the battery to the converter/charger/distribution panel. It's no surprise you read 12 volts because it’s connected directly to the battery. The AC section of your distribution panel is probably fine because you have power to the microwave. The reason that the refrigerator and air conditioner aren’t working is because they need 12 volts DC for the controls and thermostat. Given all that, you likely have a blown internal fuse in the converter/charger, or a burned termination of the large red wire coming from the 60 amp breaker. Look in your documents for the converter/charger manual, it should show the fuse location within the module. Be sure to disconnect shore power and open the 60 amp breaker before poking around in there. Good luck, Geoff

Unfortunately OTT installed this +bus under the bed and the -bus (ground) under the dinette and every Oliver is wired somewhat differently! 🤣 Checkout my picture below. Ignore the bottom half of the picture which is all stuff I installed, but the ground bus at the top of the picture. Notice the coiled up yellow/red-striped wire center of picture. This is a ground wire I added for testing. I leave it there just wound up, but unwound it's long enough to be a test ground for anything inside the cabin. It's a good tool to have ready. I made this recently to test for voltage at the water pump and switches when our water pump went dead (found loose wire on bathroom switch). Believe it not, for a quick test, you could use the foil covered insulation anywhere in the basement. Most of it is grounded, although it could be a weak ground and not show full voltage. Be careful with hot wires near this foil. If all your lights and jacks are not working, this breaker must be dead or there's no current coming into it. In the original installation of our Oliver, the converter was wired after the breaker. Actually, you can see it in the picture I posted above in my prior post. The wire coming in from the right came from the B+ battery terminal. Notice the red 8 AWG wire on the left post. It runs to the front connected to the 12VDC fuse panel and hence the PD converter that was integrated to the panel. Did you open the battery bay and test for voltage right at the batteries? Do you have 6 or 8 AWG wires connected at the batteries? Do these cables have voltage there where they start? Then you want to get a ground near your breaker and test there. I've read several posts re these breakers failing.

i checked the 60A breaker by just checking to see is if i got a really low resistance value across it as i wasn’t exactly sure where i could get a good ground connection but you are right I do need to check the voltage. I am not sure if this 60A breaker is before or after the converter so if it was good or bad that would tell me about the converter. display lights and fan are on the converter so I am not sure if this says it’s good. . fuses are easier to replace than converters/inverters so when i get back home I will run up a ground wire directly from the battery ground terminal and use it to check for DC voltages. thank you for this.

I was wondering if there is a wiring diagram somewhere. i don’t see it in the manuals

If you have 12VDC at both ends of the breaker, the same breaker that has the 3 big yellow 30A fuses for leveler jacks, the jacks (unless all 3 fuses are blown) and the lighting should work. Something is not adding up. Test again to be sure that +12VDC is on the load end of the breaker, or recheck both sides. Picture below is from our older hull before I changed all that. Ours had a 40A fuse vs. 60A but yours should be similar. The source side is on the RIGHT in this picture where power comes from the battery. +12VDC there means batteries are working. Power on the LEFT post means the breaker is closed (working). You should also see power when touching any of the screws or the metal of this positive bus. Where are you connecting your voltmeter to ground? (battery negative) If the breaker is bad, you could bypass it until you replace it, since all the loads are fused individually.