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If on shore power I would try a a reset of the CP. Go to Gear icon, press button -> scroll to "reset" and press -> you will see "pr reset", press button. UI will flicker.

Our owners are the most important part of the Oliver Travel Trailers brand. The experiences you have, the places you visit, and the ways you make your Oliver your own show what this community is really about. We’re inviting owners to share photographs, videos, travel stories, helpful ideas, and memorable moments with the Oliver marketing team. This content may help us tell the Oliver story through social media, our website, email, video, and other marketing projects. We are also developing a new Oliver Magazine. As owner content is collected, we will identify stories and photographs that may be a strong fit for the magazine and work directly with those contributors to develop the material for publication. You do not need to be a professional writer, photographer, or videographer. You also do not need to submit a completed article. A contribution can begin with a few photographs, informal notes, a video, or a simple idea. I’ll help review and curate the material so we can find the best way to tell your story. We’re especially interested in: Memorable trips and destinations Why you chose an Oliver Traveling with pets Campsite cooking and outdoor living Interior decorating and organization Boondocking and four-season travel Hiking, kayaking, fishing, cycling, and other hobbies Lessons learned over years and thousands of miles Gear you rely on and what you have learned to leave behind A favorite photograph and the story behind it Everyday moments that capture what Oliver ownership means to you Not every submission will appear in the magazine, but each one helps us better understand and represent the Oliver community. We will work directly with contributors and confirm the intended use before publishing their material. To share your story or idea, email Media@olivertraveltrailers.com. Please include a short description of your submission and the best way to contact you. If your photographs or videos are too large to email, let us know and we can provide an upload folder. Thank you for helping us tell the Oliver story through the people who live it.

Hello. We're new here, so please excuse the newbie questions. We have owned a class C motorhome, but we have never owned a truck and trailer. We are considering an Apex. We are also considering a 2027 Ram 1500 REV to tow it with. We would love to know more about towing with this vehicle. We live in Colorado, so there will be mountain driving. Two adults and two very small dogs. We will have more questions so let's start here! https://www.caranddriver.com/ram/1500-rev

We were on shore power. AC worked with the remote, just didn't appear on the CPPlus. The AquaGo is visible and operates from the COPlus. The AC did appear on the CPPlus when we bought the trailer (used) and now doesn't.

Are you part of the recall? 2025 F150 is on the list. https://www.fromtheroad.ford.com/us/en/articles/2026/software-update-to-address-integrated-trailer-module-anomaly

Are you on shore power or have the inverter on? If you don’t have one of these the AC will not show as it does not have enough power to run it. That is when we see the AC not show in the CP panel (we inverter is off and we are not plugged in).

Count me in, I will be happy to help out.

About an hour ago 2:15pm EDT I spied an Oliver LE 2 headed south/east on Interstate 26 near the Blue Ridge Parkway bridge. The TV was a black Ford (Super Duty I think) and both the Ollie and TV had Florida plates. Looking good over in the slow lane just tooling along. Bill

Rare situation that hot & cold water flows through the kitchen sink and outside shower but not in the bathroom, with the same issue at the toilet! Did you do any work inside the bathroom vanity recently? I would start by removing the bathroom faucet/shower head and the toilet filter (again). Either these endpoints are the issue or somehow you have two internal obstructions on hot & cold lines somewhere past the water pump and hot water heater. It' won't hurt blowing air but what would cause these two obstructions at the same time? 1700 miles one-way to Hohenwald from AZ. Today this roundtrip would cost over $1,500 in diesel fuel. It's never an option for us.

Reviving this thread for those who are not interested in the ceramic path for what ever reason. Thanks Trainman! It works! My gelcoat was beginning to chalk and shadows were present where the Oliver logo was removed in the lower rear. Using a 120v makita rotary buffer, a white Presta wool pad and Meguiars One Step polish, the gel coat is again glossy and shadows have been eliminated. Took about 2 hrs to do the entire lower half of the trailer. Will finish buffing the upper half using scaffolding then apply 3M Marine paste wax by hand. While I wax the entire trailer each year, this is the first time the lower half of trailer has had to be buffed since new (upper half was buffed 2years ago for the first time). Trailer lives outdoors 24x7x365.

Looks like they are opening a new state park in Hohenwald, Dry Branch State Park. Not open yet, info at the link below. Mike Dry Branch State Park

Right but I mention it hoping somebody would notice the difference; TV’s provide traction, TT’s are just rollers. Which gets to the core of what I think here - it doesn’t really matter tire wise. Tire performance is more critical in a traction vehicle, but here you can probably do what you want and the tire won’t care. Yeah that’s more internet FUD. I’ve replaced two Bolt tires in 8 years. In both cases it depends on how you drive - ICE guys who do donuts and track racing wear them out too. While EV’s provide instant torque the pedal algorithms have hysteresis and if you watch EV drivers (plenty of Teslas around) nobody is ripping the line, it’s lost its appeal with this much power/torque. Plus they design EV tires differently to account for this and efficiency. … Anyhow should have suspected you’d air down your TV! 😅 Well at any rate my argument isn’t that airing down the TT tires is bad but that its probably counterproductive. The Ez-Flex, Alcan are doing the heavy lifting on the low end of the frequency band and you want higher pressures on the top band. Haven’t heard any good refutation of this argument so that’s my story and I’m sticking to it! 😅 Good discussion ,..

Great! Thanks. I had just come to your exact conclusion. I was going to try vinegar first, but now I think it's better to blow the lines. And yes, both the hot and cold lines are plugged. I think I already have an adapter that fits the female thread with air on the other end. I appreciate your help. Winter coming on and time is running out before we leave for the Philippines. And the diesel would cost about $325 to go 380 miles each way to Hohenwald.

Right you are! Mossey

Got it done. Turned out to be a nothing burger, at these torques the bolt just kind of flows into place. They warn us about the need to re-torque due to bolt stretch after all. Anyhow I’m not going to touch it after this. On torque I was thinking about a conversation I had, how the spring torque wrenches quickly become uncalibrated, 2%-15% in a year apparently just from sitting in your truck getting bumped around. You can get fancy non spring based ones for a rich $500 or something. Or do a simple re-calibration using a weight and a bench vice.

Next was to create a roofline drip rail to eliminate the streaking down the rear. This time I took pictures of my early steps. First thing to assure the drip rail will be straight and parallel to the hull is to measure heights. I use the hull seam, the belly bar or hull waistband so to speak. It protrudes quite a bit and holds the tape measure nicely. I used 39" on the side rail (bending it around the top curve) and 33" for the rear. I cut a bunch of 1" pieces of blue tape and stuck them to the scaffolding to have ready. On the side rail, I placed them about every 16" and about every 10" on the rear. You place these at the height you want the drip rail. Then you place one STRAIGHT long length of masking tape which becomes the lower edge of the rail. Then measure 7/8" spacing to place a second line of tape. I marked the center using the Oliver sign and the 3 little marker lights and taped the end points 28" each way, 56" of drip rail for the rear. I made both drip rails 1/4" lower on the ends. Then sand the gap smooth, use acetone to remove the ceramic residue. Then remove the top line of tape and use rubbing alcohol to clean the area. Now it's time to place the Trim-Lok drip rail. After Bill's mention above, I read some of the "Window Gutter" threads. There was talk about installing on a hot day and maybe a heat gun, but none of that is necessary with the Trim-Lok product today. This product is great. It was 76F when I finished yesterday and the product is very flexible, keeping the straight line is the deal. BTW, our Furrion Chill Cube has never overflowed condensate since it is designed to use it in cooling the condenser fins, but if we are to camp in a hot humid location, you can see where the condensate would now be channeled. Our nose is always up a little higher and lift the curbside jack 1/2" taller than the streetside and any dripping will go down the corner area pictured. The massive Pinion Pine on the edge of our property makes the Chill Cube look even taller! 🤣 If you're on the highway one day, following an Oliver that has a rear drip rail and a matching rear porch light, that would be us in Hull #113! I like how the two drip rails come together in both rear corners. The back corner surfaces will get dirtier but an easy area to clean. And the old girl still looks nice and shiny now 10 months after ceramic coating! 😎

I always dread a dump station that aims my rig nose down.

In prior conversation a few years ago with Jason Essary at Oliver Service, I learned that Oliver Service would have to physically see your Oliver to match your paint and gelcoat in order to properly match/repair chips. Oliver no longer maintains any history paint colors. I think @taylor.coyote has offered the best remedy. I would also suggest calling a local fiberglass boat/yacht club as they can be a great resource for mobile fiberglass touch ups if you want it done professionally. DYI touch ups more often than not end up looking like DYI touch ups 😕 and will highlight your chip repairs vs make them disappear. I had 8 mil XPEL PPF (paint protection film) installed on the front blast zones of our 2020 Oliver LE2 and am glad I did. It really has helped preserve the gelcoat especially on the front corners, dog house aka propane tank storage. I also had it installed under the quarter panels front to back.

good point: I should have been more specific that the touch up area on my trailer is the fender/wheel covers and not the gelcoat sides of the trailer. I discovered when sanding the fender area where some chips were that it's not gelcoated. I think it's a fiberglass part or perhaps plastic. Anyway, light sanding of the chip area showed thin outer paint. I've now primed and sanded that area (it's rather small part of the fender) and just need to repaint the section.

I put trim lok over the lighted Oliver sign. Thought it would be good insurance against leaks from the seals aging on the sign. Many folks have had that problem. Scotty

What JD said. I'll have to try lifting the curbside of the trailer next dump. But I will say that because of all the afore mentioned design characteristics of the Gray tank, it is very slow to drain! Aren't the gray tanks also "L" shaped?? Which is why a curbside lift is a great idea to help things along. One thing I do is to open the back flow valve in the bathroom to help let more air in the tank when draining, I don't think there is a trap on that drain, seems to help. Dave

Craig, I would caution you about using paint to touch up your Oliver. Paint and Gelcoat are two entirely different coatings. I would suggest a quick google search or a visit to some boating forums to learn about the process of repairing damaged gelcoat. You didn't specify your issues, but if they are rock dings and such, I would not paint them. Paint will not age well, doesn't have the build of gelcoat, and cannot be polished with the rest of the trailer when that time comes (and it will). You will need to apply your 2 part gelcoat (it can be tinted and is a catalyzed product) to a properly prepared surface. Overfill slightly, wet sand flush, then polish out. Yes, it's a lot more labor than spraying on a coat of paint, but will give you far superior and much longer lasting results. My 2 cents. Dave

Thanks for the idea; hadn't thought to take the LP tank cover into a paint shop. Sounds like a good idea. Cheers, Craig

I asked the factory about my paint / gel coat color 6 months ago. They did not have the information for my trailer (hull # 124). I solved the problem by taking the trailer's propane cover to a good automotive paint store. they had tools to shoot images of the gel coat and were able to match the color precisely. they can give you a code to mix the color needed.

Craig - Your best bet is to call or email Oliver Service. Let them know what your hull number is and they can tell you which Gel Coat color was used on it. Note that over the years there have been different colors of white used. Bill