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Didn't have time to figure out the wiring today. Later on that... Kept it plugged in on AC to test cooling water. After 90 min, the CFX5 set to 35F thought it had gotten to that temp, but was far from it, and it shut down the compressor when reading 35F on its display. At the same time the Ruuvi sensor read 61F which was more accurate given the water bottles still felt warm to the touch. The thermostat likely will only read correctly when foods inside come to temp steady state. I removed the full gallon and kept 15 water bottles inside and nothing else. I set the thermostat to 20F. All day long the CFX5 display read 21-23F and the compressor was running every time I looked. In an 8-hour day it cooled down 15 water bottles from 82F to 36F, per the Ruuvi. Not bad cooling since cooling 2 gallons of water bottles is not an easy task starting at 82F. Wish the thermostat was better, but we'll see with foods inside vs. just water bottles. We often buy cold shrink-wrapped or frozen meats at a butcher shop. twill be great have this extra space which can be turned down to freezer temps when needed.

We passed and waved to another Oliver passing through Thermopolis, Wyoming today (7/13). They were heading south on route 20 and we were just turning on route 120 towards Yellowstone. Spending a couple of weeks west of Cody at Buffalo Bill State Park. You folks have a safe trip!

I use some white lithium but to each their own. Here is a good video on it and he even calls out how the Anderson hitch is different than others.

Thanks very much! Excellent advice about covering the ball.

A little dab will do ya…https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower you can probably pick it up cheaper at a local auto parts store.

When not using the Anderson WDH, make sure you are also not using the Anderson hitch at all, meaning specifically the ball on the cone. Without the WDH boomerang piece bolted through the bottom, the ball is merely held in place by a snap ring which could fail allowing the cone and ball to come up and off. With a standard ball it is common practice to grease it. Get a rubber cover for when detached before it soils your pant leg! Use any thick grease so it stays put. I use red wheel bearing grease since I have several tubes of it on hand.

Yes... only an o-ring on ours as well...no Teflon tape.

I believe that the filter / screen utilizes an 'O' ring for a seal and it's on the low pressure / suction side of the pump.

Now that you mention it, ours doesn't have Teflon tape there, either. Anyone have Teflon tape at the connection between the pump and its filter?

We do. I use this: 3inOne Trailer Hitch Gel Lube https://a.co/d/7Kz5pKB

wondering if anyone greased their hitch? we have a 3/4 ton diesel so we no longer use the Anderson. Just curious about everyone thoughts. thanks Oliver 371

I see there is no teflon tape where the screen attaches to pump. Made me raise an eyebrow. That connection might not be the best without it..... Just thinking out loud..... Thanks again.....

thank you.... will give it a try........

The Form is an electronic form. https://www.cdc.gov/importation/dogs/rabies-free-low-risk-countries.html#:~:text=At a glance,upon submission of the form.

Yes Tony, I like the term Oliver Trunk! And you have all the length you need in the connector cable to move the display anywhere in the Oliver! This is how I did mine. I used 3M VHB 4950 to tape the display to a 3" wide L-bracket that could be screwed down to the base. The small bracket in front is there to somewhat protect the display from getting hit by the shore power cord, hoses and other stuff during transit. You could also mount it on the top of the wall, left in the picture. But for me, I have an exhaust fan and control panel mounted up there to keep our inverter/charger cooled. I picked this location because after I remove the shore power cord, I can see it leaning down a little without craning my neck. I check all readings and possible error messages immediately after plugging in, hoping to see about 125V, at 60Hz and "E0" (no errors).

Wow, wax! until now, I could not imagine the panels being dirty enough to reduce power output 5x~! I only use water and a professional window cleaning brush on a 5 ft handle to clean ours, rinse-brush-rinse, no cleaning products used ever. This was the question on my mind. Good explanation, thanks Geoff.

I've made both AC and DC connections to the CFX5. I just tried to turn it on powered by 12VDC and nothing happened like it did not see the connection. Perhaps something is very wrong with my installation, bad ground, bad switch or fuse, will test soon. Wondering how they prioritize the AC over DC connection? Do they sense for voltage at the two inputs? Or is it something like when you physically plug in the AC cord it knows to use that connection. I hope not, but will soon find out! Later today, I will get behind the fridge, which is not easy as I have it installed. I have to climb into the truck bed and pull my solar suitcase back to get to the rear ports of the fridge. I will test for 12VDC at the fridge plug and then disconnect the AC cord to see if the DC will run the fridge given it tests positive. So I plugged it in today by household extension cord to power it up. She has a nice light hum! I have a full gallon and 15 water bottles inside to cool (total 3 gallons water). That's much more water than we would ever have but it is a good mass of water to test its cooling. Default temp setting is 39F and I set it down to 35F. The CFX5 readout started at 82F and the readout after 20 minutes read 39F on the panel, same on the Dometic Bluetooth app. My Ruuvi sensor inside, sitting on the wire cage not touching the walls, read 82F the whole time. Looks like the CFX5 is reading the wall temp somewhere and not the temp of the contents. Hope it doesn't cycle the compressor off too early. We'll see. We will have a Ruuvi sensor inside always, like the two sensors in our Dometic absorption fridge in the Oliver, fridge and freezer, that always show good readings, fridge in the 30s and freezer in the single digits.

I have found the reason the Zamp panels were producing only 2 ah of charge. The detailer cleaned the panels and the cleaning improved the output. He told me that when he cleaned the top of the Oliver he followed up with a liberal coat of WAX. The wax did a good job of preventing the sun to do its job! After the first cleaning, I had him go over the panels with rubbing alcohol. The third cleaning was with vinegar and water. The regiment resulted in 225 watts of power and 12.2 current charge.. I have the Battle Borne 200 Ah batteries. The PV is controlled by the Victron MTTP 150|35. It is a mostly sunny day. That was a great call to review the History of charge. The data clearly indicates that there was little or no charge after I had the Oliver detailed and Solar waxed heavily!

The statements jive okay. This question was originally about the virtual load setting, and it's morphed into why not more solar input. The solar charger data looks good for the 36 watt input. However, the question of why the input is not higher is a whole different discussion. There could be a number of reasons why: I'd first look at the "History" feature of the App, it will show the solar input over several days. If it was charging at more watts in periods of more sun, then that will give you a better idea if it's sun related. Cleaning the panels will always help, but not that significantly... unless they are really really dirty. Next I'd review the Solar Charger settings, particularly the battery type, as they can also impact the output. Also, whatever device you are reading the 40% SOC from, I'd review those setting too. You might actually be at a higher percent charge and the charger is ramping down the output. There are probably some charging curves out there to see how it ramps down, and that can provide clues. Let us know what you find and we will see where it leads to from there! Cheers! Geoff

@jd1923 The inside of the outside storage area (trunk?) seems a better location. Looks to me like it's just 2 screws and the flat cable to the display. If I have enough slack cable I may move the PI EMS display at your suggestion. Thanks, Tony

I went to work on the solar disco switch this morning but didn't get very far. The circular marine hatch in my cabinet is 6" diameter so there is not room for the Bluesea 6006 switch next to the hatch. Based on @rich.dev's photo, it seems strange to me that newer Olivers have a smaller hatch than older models. I'm considering putting the switch inside the unfinished space behind the Zamp. I can epoxy some HDPE to the unfinished side of the pantry wall, then mount the Bluesea switch to the HDPE. This wouldn't be as convenient as having the switch in the over bed cabinet but 'may' be better than having it under the bench/bed. I'd have to reach in more or less blind to turn the switch but it's a big switch. Can anyone foresee other problems with this location? Is J.B. Weld the correct epoxy for gluing the HDPE to the fiberglass? Any advice on this? I'd like to confirm that the switch should go on the positive wire between the solar panels and the controller, correct? Thanks, Tony

Trying to see how these two statements jive? The data shows only a 2A charge. Why? On a sunny day I get at least 12A via the Blue Sky SC regularly from our our 320W rooftop solar panels. The 150-175W expectation seems correct to me. So your roof panels are connected to a Victron MPPT SC? (not hardware OTT installed) and you have Victron batteries or a Victron SmartShunt on the batteries?

You can try setting your valves to the normal position, turn your pump on, then turn the valve circled in the picture below 'on' briefly. You will hear water rushing into your fresh tank. What this does is pump water from your fresh tank back into your fresh tank. This will purge the air out of the pump and associated components. This has happened to me many times after traveling and arriving at a site, somehow air gets into the system.

Thank you for the Virtual Load explanation.. I clearly did not do a good job of reading the manual.. I truly appreciate yours and JD tutelage. I will in addition have the panels cleaned today. The fellow who details Oliver for me will clean them with Glass Cleaner. I will report back if the cleaning improves the output of the Zamp panels. George

The VictronConnect application shows two (2) items. Battery and Solar Roof. Under the Heading of Solar Roof there are three sub headers Solar: Voltage and current Battery: Voltage, Current, Temperature and State Virtual Load Output: State. The state indicates OFF