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@dewdev , I have a different reason to remove the glass, but have the same question on how to remove the glass. Believe the previous owner might have put darker tint on Ollie's windows, now they have etched window spots. I'm thinking about replacing them. Thanks for starting the thread!

Looks like the RAM REV 1500 (Range-Extended EV) or whatever they’re calling it this week - won’t be hitting the dealers until closer to 1Q27. I was hoping to have an option for when I’m ready to trade in the 2025 Sierra Denali. I like to trade vehicles while they’re still worth something. Though - seems the rig I have is still the most efficient one available - and I’m getting great mileage. Which is nice thanks to the $6+ a gallon diesel. (Considerably higher in touristy areas!)

Try a PM to SeaDawg. I know that she had this issue and a "local" (Florida) place solved the issue for her. Bill

There are a few places to check the data connections: 1) Behind the water heater power connector as show in the video. 2) Under the curb-side bed there will be a junction connector where the data cable from the furnace and the water heater data cable are connected (see photo below). 3) The back of the display unit In terms of re-initializing the system, I found this: Note: I believe that there is also a power switch on the furnace itself that is accessible under the curb-side bed, on the furnace itself near the wall by the gas connection ( if I remember correctly).

Disclaimer - I have zero knowledge of these units, I 'm just going on basic trouble shooting methods. If you did a factory reset on the CP, then it probably needs to be re-paired with the devices (furnace, Water Heater, and AC ... assuming that the AC is also a Truma). Start by going into the CP setup/pairing mode to see what devices are connected and/or available for pairing. It could be that the furnace was never paired during initial setup. The manual should have instructions for this. If the Furnace is not listed, then check the furnace fuse because it needs to have power to talk to the CP. Next check the LIN cable as @Galway Girl showed in the video, only it's the one for the furnace not the water heater because you said the water heater was working fine. Look closely at the pins on the LIN cable, they could be bent and not making proper connection. If the furnace end is fine, then check the CP end. Last but least likely, the furnace board might have issues. This is a good start, but there could be other problems to. Hopefully someone with more familiarity will chime in. Good luck and let us know what you find

Collin and Gavin (CGI Murfreesboro, TN) did a superb job on my camper right before they left for Maine. I always tell them, “It looks better than new.” Worth every penny for the annual job. If I lived in Maine and owned an Oliver, I would definitely take advantage of their skill set while they are there.

I know there has been a bit of discussion on replacing window glass in hte past, but the search function did not find what I was looking for, so I would like some input from those in the know. One of my fixed (not slider) window thermoglass panes is clouding between the panes. I am guessing there is a break in the seal between the thermopanes. Has this happend to anyone? Has anyone been able to have just the glass replaced? How would I get this fixed window removed to take to a repair shop? Can any glass shop do the replacement? Thanks

For truma communications between devices on the inside controls they use a data cable with network or phone style connections. There should be one plugged into the right side of the water heater looking from the outside above the power switches and behind the larger white cable connector. If it’s plugged in then check the other end at the control panel. IMG_7831.mov

I just picked up my new LEII on Tuesday and stayed at Oliver for 2 nights to test everything out. Had no issues and headed back home to western NC. It was cool in the mountains this morning. I realized that I did not try the heater while at Oliver as it was in the 90's so I tried to turn on the heat. On the truma control panel, I hit the camper symbol and turned the dial to heat and set to 80 degrees and pressed the dial to confirm. The fire symbol showed up above the line but no heat and no fan. The hot water heater was working fine. After researching I found the warning triangle on the screen and pressed it and code W255H came up. In the manual it show this as a warning that the control panel is not communicating with the heater. I turned everything off then turned the control panel off. Then turned the Xantrex off (was running on battery. Turned Xantrex back on then Truma CP back on. Tried again and got the same error. I hooked to shore power and tried again, still nothing. Read the manual more and then decided to reset the Truma CP. Probably not a good idea. Now I have no symbols on the CP for heat or hot water, only AC and Fan which both work. I posted on facebook and here to see if anyone had any suggestions. Then I called Oliver and did not realize that they close at 11am on Fridays. Hopefully someone here or on Facebook will have a simple fix for me, if not I will reach out to Oliver after the holiday weekend. Happy Memorial Day and please remember all of those who gave us the ultimate sacrifice.

No, not at all, please allow me to explain! No detailer includes ALL the prep work, at least the way I see it! First, I removed all the silicone caulk around the windows and everywhere else. This is something detailers work around, CGI included. I removed the brackets for the awning, the surrounds on the taillights, the faces of the HWH and furnace, and every piece of trim on the doghouse and spare tire cover (see before/after pics) and so much more! Why? When something as little as the awning mount is screwed into the body, CGI or any detailer must polish around the item, never getting the fiberglass right close to the trim part. They must stay clear of these parts when using a power buffer. Remove two screws in two minutes and they can use a buffer machine over the full body panel vs. working around it. Meanwhile, I'm cleaning and detailing all the trim parts, replaced some with new parts, so the end result is far better. CGI is not doing this and nobody would expect a detailer to do so. I know the end result on Hull #113 came out WAY BETTER compared to merely "dropping her off for ceramic coating." I know the difference, but most people will not take it upon themselves to do this work. I even removed the Dometic Penguin, plugged the opening, and did not install our new Chill Cube A/C until my guy polished every bit of the roof, right up to the 14x14" hole! The gelcoat shines, even under our new A/C. It is apples to oranges, but not in the way you were thinking.😎 With my experience in auto restoration projects, it would be like me taking a car in for paint with all the trim still bolted on. Not my car! The painter would have to mask everything that should not be painted, might as well "go to Maaco! Years ago, when my '59 Chrysler 300E went in for paint and detailing, every single trim piece; lights, mirrors, stainless moldings, bumpers, etc. were all removed. The bumpers were re-chromed, the stainless straightened, dings removed and polished, taillights fully restored with NOS lenses, the list goes on. Afterwards, she won People's Choice awards at a few car shows. IMHO, $3000 is just too much to pay, though I've heard of shops that charge even more. Considering travel costs and the condition of our hull, the CGI price "starting at $3,000" would total even more. Once they advertised +$400 for their service at distant locations. We don't have that kind of money just to be pretty! Chris said once, "Why does an Oliver have to be shiny." Love that woman, for her common sense and everything else! October 2024 at the Texas Rally, I observed the CGI work on a few hulls. No question, they do very good work. Our hull was still pasty at the time. I was taking my time working mechanical and electrical mods first, waiting for when I could do this right. My extra efforts along with detailing work of equal quality together produced a superior result. At Quartzsite this year, there was not a better optioned or better looking hull. 😎 Not only IMHO, but from the comments of several other Oliver owners attending. I spent 2 years getting our Oliver optioned better than most and now our Ugly Duckling has turned into our Beautiful Swan. My latest restoration project is just about done. The pictures to follow show just one small example of the work required to fully restore a 10-year-old hull which had, and will still have, a whole lot of sun exposure! Glad we have the local guy who worked extra hours to get this right. Cameron will see our Oliver again, every year or two for a going over. I won't need to do all the work I did the first time. With his help Hull #113 will look good another 10 years!

Tim - Note that Jason Walmsley is more of an IT guy and as such he wears a bunch of different "hats" at Oliver. In addition - this Jason (W) does not really "monitor" the Forum on any set schedule and/or continual basis. Therefore, it may be even weeks before he sees your message. The person in management that is responsible for Sales and Service is Jason Essary and can be reached at the email address that I provided above. While this Jason (E) (nor any other employee at Oliver) does not monitor our Forum, a direct email should be replied to fairly quickly. Bill

Thank you, I've written to J Walmsley, but he hasn't read my message yet. Tim

Nope - there were no acorns or twigs in the awning. I use a little step stool and a Dewalt 12v blower prior to rolling them up to remove any tree trash that might have fallen. I think it was just a little of stretch in the fabric. After a small adjustment with the limits, all was fine.

I’ll chime in here. Former Elite II owner here, and also a former Ford Expedition owner. I still check out the owner forums to see what’s new, and because we do miss our travels with our Ollie #461 that is now with a new owner, as we have moved on to some overseas travel as our next adventure in life. Yes, it’s more than safe to tow your Oliver with the Expedition with the factory Tow Package. We had almost the identical setup to yours. Our 2017 Expedition 4X4 was called the EL version (extended length, now called Max). The Ollie is well within the towing specs of the Expedition. It’s a body on frame construction SUV that shares a lot with the Ford F-150 truck. You WILL need to use the Andersen weight distribution hitch. The Ford factory towing package and the factory trailer brake controller worked very well. Use the Tow/Haul mode when towing. There are a couple of cons though: After a couple of years we did find the limited payload capacity became an issue as we started carrying more camping equipment for extended trips. The Ford Eco-Boost turbocharged V6 was adequate but it really had to rev very high in mountainous areas going uphill, and the engine temp tended to get pretty hot. We eventually upgraded to an F-250 to get much higher payload capacity and also eliminate the need for the weight distribution hitch. Enjoy your Ollie!

So to add an interpretation: that tag it tells you that "weigh carrying" capacity (which is direct downward pressure from the tongue) is 500lb's without a weight distribution hitch and 1160lbs if you have a weight distribution hitch attached. Since Oliver EII's loaded are usually around 600-700 lb range...then you'll need a WDH for that particular hitch on that particular vehicle.

Here's the sticker/decal Bill mentioned on the bottom of an F-150 hitch:

I'd bet that Ford does require a weight distribution hitch - look for a "sticker/decal" on the underside of the hitch on that Expedition. Also, be mindful of thigs other than "will it tow the trailer" - remember, you also have to stop that trailer, possibly tow it up/down steep grades. The additional stresses placed on your tow vehicle are also likely to shorten the service interval you had planned on for this vehicle. Therefore, be mindful of shortened service intervals and while driving pay closer attention to acceleration/stopping distances and avoiding other road hazards. Your ride quality may also be compromised as you approach the maximum limits of the tow vehicle. This might make driving a bit less enjoyable for all concerned. Having said all this, please note that the Oliver is extremely well behaved when towing. Bill

Are you comparing "apples" to "apples" here? Was the local guy only charging for the application of the ceramic coating while the CGI price includes all the prep work? Bill

Based on your numbers I'd say, yes, you could tow an Elite 2 with your Expedition. As you mentioned, your limiting number would be your payload limit. Take 600# off for tongue weight and you're down to 725 for you, your wife, and any cargo in the truck. Should be enough. You'd have to check your manual to see if a weight distributing hitch is required for a 7000# GVWR trailer, although it may not be with those specs (AI says it's not needed until the trailer is over 7000#).

I know tow vehicle is a passionate subject with many Oliver owners. My specific question is as follows. I have a 2026 Ford Expedition Max (4x4) with a payload of 1,325lbs and the heavy duty towing package rated at 9,300lbs, which is further specified per the list below. I understand payload is the limiting factor due to tongue and cargo weight. It will only be my wife and I traveling. And yes, I would prefer an F250; however, this is my vehicle for the time being. 1. Will it safely tow an Oliver? Ford Towing Package: • Class IV hitch receiver with higher tongue weight rating (supports heavier trailers than standard Class III). • Integrated trailer brake controller (in-cabin electronic control for trailer brakes). • Heavy-duty transmission oil cooler and upgraded radiator/cooling system for sustained towing without overheating. • Optimized axle ratio (typically 3.73) for improved torque and towing performance. • Pro Trailer Backup Assist 2.0 (steering knob for precise trailer reversing). • 360° camera system with dedicated trailer views and guidance lines. • Trailer Sway Control (electronic stability system intervention). • Pro Trailer Hitch Assist (automated hitch alignment with steering/braking assistance). • Tow/Haul mode with adaptive shift programming for better hill handling and engine braking. • Extended blind-spot monitoring that accounts for trailer length. • Supporting wiring harness and other cooling enhancements. 

Right that, I paid 62.99 plus tax last April. Didn’t notice the price jump, CRAZY! Actually watched a video of someone using it to blow dust and grass debris off their zero turn mower prior to maintenance procedures. Its worked great for that purpose and general cleanup after a mow. Have since found a multitude of uses and now carry it in my van in close reach. I can blow that dust off the dash a couple times a week, as well as other points of accumulation within the van. I have yet to move my air compressor setup to our new residence, so this powerful handy device is filling that void and more! I also like that it is small and trim enough to fit in my pocket in readiness, as needed.

Excellent advice Ken (the metal working guru you asked for). I would choose the set screw kind and drill an indentation on the shaft so the screw sits to hold the collar nicely. Yep, for sure! OTT should replace this under warranty on your 2024 hull. They used to make them to last 10+ years.

More time in the prep than the ceramic coating. I spent hours in prep prior to handing off our Oliver to “the shop.” I felt the more I did, the more time he could spend on the shine. I will start a thread on my pre-work and restoration project. Our local guy charged $85 per linear foot. The CGI starting price is $128/ft, figuring the Oliver EII at 23.5 feet long.

Darn! Well, it was worth the call and at least you know. However, I'm a bit surprised. Bill

I did call service. Disappointingly, the response was, "we don't stock that part" and I may be better off finding a welder to spot weld it back on. I was happy to pay for a new part and have it shipped. I could have pressed the issue but I needed it quickly because we are heading out for 3-4 weeks next week. Like I said, disappointing response to say the least. I would have even been willing to drive to Hohenwald to pick up a part.