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“All” electric with a integrated gasoline generator and a 20 gal onboard gasoline tank? Not on my radar as I prefer simple but I am sure it will appeal to some who are looking for a ICE travel appliance which can be pulled by their EV. The Living Vehicle is more appealing and made in the US. Thanks for sharing, Mike. It is interesting to see how the RV market is expanding.

The Midwest Oliver Owners Rally will take place next May 19th through the 23rd. The venue will be the Duluth Indian Point Camground. We have 20 spots held for the rally and I believe about 14 or 15 have already been reserved. There are a ton of things to do in the area, great food and drink, lots of hiking and biking, and even ship watching as they go in and out of the port. Join the Ollie Rolling Rally Facebook group to look at more details and see the event. I've also added a post in the Oliver Trailer Owners FB group.

I have a 2024 Nissan Titan XD. The stock alternator is a high output 200 amp unit. I am thinking I would be good to go for a DC/DC install... which is happening in November. Does that sound right? Thanks, Scotty

Exactly what I did, Mechman 320 Amp High Output alternator.

Alternator specs should be reviewed and often when adding a DC-DC charger the OEM alternator should be replaced with a higher amp model. Most truck manufacturers offer an upgrade alternator (e.g. snow plow upgrade) and there are many aftermarket sources offering superior materials and copper windings, and smaller diameter pulleys to increase alternator RPM. Our TV came OEM with a 130A alternator. I certainly did not expect it to handle its design load plus another 50A. Simple math is to upgrade the alternator to one that produces 50A additional over your OEM capacity. Nations is a reliable aftermarket supplier. Months prior to our DC-DC mod, I spent $330 total for a HD 180A Nations alternator. Like everything else they look to be more expensive now and will be more expensive for late model trucks that come stock with higher amperage alternators. https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/High-Amp-Alternators-s/58.htm This topic was discussed in my build thread and I added comments before to warn Oliver Owners on other past posts re DC-DC charging. This link goes directly to my comment re upgrading the alternator too! 😎

From $159K for the higher end model

Pebbles are made in Fremont, CA. "The Fremont manufacturing center houses the startup’s entire product development process, from R&D and engineering to the final assembly of the RVs."

AI says, "Evotrex manufactures and engineers its Evotrex-PG5 RVs in Shanghai, China, while performing final assembly, R&D, and corporate operations in City of Industry, California." $120,000 - $160,000. Looks like a whole lot of stuff that can break, but at least the side wall isn't the floor like one of the others.

Just this past week while showing a friend around in YNP we saw a Cyber Truck no less towing one of those Pebble units. Looks like they have some competition now. Can't imagine what one of these things cost though.

This new travel trailer from Evotrex has some interesting features. All electric. I’m sure nobody will be shy with their opinions! Evotrex Mike

Thanks for posting, educational for me, too.

I am posting this as educational only, not to start a debate on it. I like it more just to understand what was happening with the alternator when doing DC/DC charging. So, given this thread, I thought others might find the insight useful. Again, not getting into the debate of if it is good or bad but just education on what your alternator is doing.

We are about to leave on a long adventure where we will be visiting many state and national parks. A friend of mine uses GuideAlong. It has GPS-driven guides for all over the US, including national parks. I know the NPS app also has some self-guided tours with narration for areas of the park. Just wondering if anyone out there has used these much and has experience. My sampling so far has been that GuideAlong has richer narration than the NPS app. We visited Ellis Island a year ago and used the audio tour and found it a much richer experience. So having it for this adventure is very appealing.

You're welcome! Your work and supporting documentation is a positive addition! With the DC-DC charger, and an increase in Ah storage, you can make running your TV sitting at a campsite or running a generator quite unnecessary. Nobody likes hearing a generator anyway, so just give it away to some poor soul still running lead acid batteries! 🤣 Rooftop solar; it's nice having them up there. When parked outside the rooftop solar runs our day-to-day needs. Perhaps a good addition for the future to-do list. When you do so, please do not drill mounting holes! You only need 1-2 holes for the wiring with a dab of Dicor to seal them. The standard 1x3” Renogy solar panel mounting brackets can be mounted to fiberglass using only a 3” strip of 3M VHB tape (2x stronger than screws in fiberglass). Smart to replace your A/C ASAP if you've been listening to that ROCK CONCERT known as the Dometic Penguin II A/C! 🤣 If you're camping in the hot & humid SE, even in the shoulder seasons, you will need to up your 400 Ah storage to run an efficient inverter or variable speed A/C unplugged. Yesterday was 98F up here at 5400 ft and was 116F in the desert valley below. I have a Ruuvi sensor on the roof of our Oliver, under the solar panels, which reported 115F with 16% RH at 1PM. It’s a “dry heat” but only in the shade, LOL! You could cook eggs on top of the solar panels! We don't go to The Valley in the summer months! Up here after dinner it will be in the 70s, high of 98F, low of 68F. Of course at low altitude where it's humid it doesn't cool down as much at night. The Chill Cube cooled our cabin down to 76F all day long, got to its set temp of 74F once the sun set, and for 24 hours we used only 220 Ah in battery storage. Extremely bright sun supplied another +/- 160 Ah by solar charger all day long. Think that the Orion XS 50A can add equal Ahs in 4 hours towing vs. all day long with 320W rooftop solar. I could not imagine all this 2 years ago when I started working our mods! Now that you have a proper DC-DC charger, my suggestion is more Ah storage capacity. You should have room to add more of the same batteries and if you need to, remove the tray. 😎

Yes, it is kind of expensive for nonresidents for what is offered. Hope you enjoy it though. The view of the Wisconsin River meeting the Mississippi River is a highlight. Plan on just sitting there for an hour or two to contemplate life. A bag of fresh cheese curds paired with a glass of wine or beer will enhance the experience.

We booked three nights at Wyalusing State Park. WI is kinda expensive. The price I pay for your excellent cheese!

Thanks, I spoke with Oliver and Xantrex this morning. Oliver walked me through a reset procedure but that didn't work. Xantrex thinks its probably the two reverse polarity fuses inside the inverter that could be replaced and might work, but a board could be fried. The only Xantrex service places near me (Minnepolis) are camping world and since the reverse polarity error negates the warranty (pun intended), I'm responsible for costs. So I'm checking into a solar place near me. Maybe upgrade to Li batteries too with a turn off switch so I don't do the same thing again. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Thanks for sharing, vital information for owners considering such an install. Here’s a couple of pics on cable management:

Try calling Xantrec tech support rather than Oliver.

Thanks for your kind words. Your comments about the DC-DC charger are great and my thinking as well. The 40A just keeps coming as long as you are hooked up and running. We boondock multiple days at a time quite often and I'm thinking I could even hook up in camp and charge via DC-DC if solar is inadequate and if for some reason I don't want to (or can't) run my generator to recharge. I still haven't totally ruled out adding roof solar at some point, but I'm on the fence about it since the vast majority of our camping is in areas with lots of shade. Our hull is prewired for it and has the embedded mounting plates. So far, our suitcase panels are good for accessing the sunny spots. Thanks for the link. I love reading the AC posts and your data is impressive. I figure our AC will need to be replaced at some point (already 7 years old) and I'd love to have a high efficiency AC that could run from the battery bank for an extended time. We are in the humid south, so this can be a taller order at peak summer temps, but we could expand our current 400Ah battery bank as well.

Flora Reviewed the Teslong website and found what seems to be a qauitly wifi scope for $50 (WF150D39L3 Wi-Fi Inspection Camera with 3.9 mm Camera). It uses your phone or computer's screen vs purchasing a more expensive scope with an integrated screen. Looks like good quality and compact solution for traveling. https://teslong.com/collections/inspection-borescopes

Flora https://teslong.com/collections/inspection-borescopes Teslong makes a variety of quality scopes ranging from $100 to $150. The heads on these scopes are general smaller, larger screen, better images, cables are generally more supple/ easier handling, can record video and snap pictures vs low cost scopes. You can get scopes at amazon and home depot starting at $29.

Geoff, Your offer to help is appreciated. I was able to find and reconnect the loose wire. You are correct, not much room behind pantry switches. As stated above, I found pulling the tank monitor face plate provides a generous opening to access the switches and wiring in front of pantry.

After reading this thread and some of my own struggles, it seems like a lighted scope is a good idea for the Oliver kit. I know there have been recommendations listed before. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I read two issues here, the vent cover does not stay closed, and the hose comes loose? The vent cover has louvers that do not tightly close, I'm surprised that mine have not broken as many times as they have been kicked. I don't have a fix for that. However, if the hose is coming loose, you can add new screws. It was originally fastened with screws that went through the hose and into the plastic vent. Then taped. I was able to get the screws out, but it was near impossible to put new ones back in the tight space. Rather I put screws in from the inside of the vent and was able to get tape on using little pieces. See the picture: