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Good idea, Dennis! It irks me that Truma doesn't support sales of repair parts for DIY, only OEM installations. "They don't sell a listed part in the US market!" This is just not right. I'm very happy after reading 100+ posts re Truma issues (mostly their HWH) that we have no Truma products in or on our hull. It would be good to have a planned upgrade path vs. waiting until you get stuck. There are posts here on replacing the Truma hot water heater but I do not recall any re the furnace. Based on a quick look, their furnace design is not standard to Dometic and other RV furnaces so installation could be tricky. And from what I've read here, the ducting may also be different. Our hull came with a Dometic furnace and after two complaints of it "being noisy" on a second 2020 visit to OTT service, the work order stated, "Replace Dometic furnace with Atwood." After replacing some worn flexible duct work with rigid, deleting the underbed duct, adding an return duct filter and basement vents, our furnace is relatively quiet and has always run well (knock on forehead)! 🤣

Yes, there is a restriction to both the incoming City Water and Fresh Water lines. OTT plumbing diagrams only show the backflow prevention devices, labeled "check valves" in the plumbing diagrams. However, they also install flow restrictors. See basement picture rear of our hull. I can't be certain if this is true for all hulls, but take a look along the rear wall of your basement. This slows down the City Water and slows down how long it takes to fill the Fresh Tank! It's been on my long list to remove both restrictors while cleaning the check valves, but like you, we use City Water about 1 in 10 days camping. We have also used the water pump to boost internal water flow when necessary. What you're doing, using an actual pressure regulator vs. a flow restrictor, on the incoming City Water is the right way to do it, but given an inline restrictor, you're slowing down GPM 2 times. I have never used a pressure regulator knowing flow restrictors are built-in. I use a filter for desert water but don't bother with good mountain water. We do not drink water from our fresh tank anyway. I drain the Fresh Tank 1-2 times a year and bleach it every couple of years.

@Tom and Doreen, that's what I figured about the pump. Thanks!

I upgraded to the 2 5/16" ball while still using the Andersen WDH, a new Andersen 2 5/16" ball and friction cone for about $90. Later after the Alcan upgrade I stopped using the Andersen all together. I now use a simple HD ball mount that I had previously. It's worth repeating. Do NOT use the Andersen ball mount without the WDH or at least place the lock pin below, otherwise there is only gravity and a circlip keeping the ball cone in place.

I have the same issue. The plumbing diagram in my owners manual shows no intended restriction on the city line but my city water pressure is not as good as when I use the water pump. ....You can activate the water pump and boost pressure when you're connected to city water however the water pump will pull water from the fresh water tank. I often use it this way when I'm at a campground and would like more pressure in the shower.

If this ever happens to me I will certainly be looking to change brands. Are there any other options?

We rarely camp with hookups, but when we do, we have low water pressure at the faucets, even if the campground supplies high pressure. No problem when using the tank water and pump. It's been an issue since the trailer was new. We have an inline filter and pressure regulator on the hose but they are providing plenty of pressure entering the trailer, so there's a restriction in the trailer plumbing somewhere. Does incoming city water flow through the water pump, or is it plumbed in downstream from the pump discharge? If it goes through the pump, wondering if I can boost pressure with the pump and tank water.

Yeah I have a Sherline scale, ordered direct so I could get 0-1k instead of the standard 0-2k for better accuracy, it's near dead on 700 lbs. I carry a lot of gear including a full heavy stage piano 😅GVWR is just under max with spare for full fresh tank. Yeah agree its not strictly necessary but if it gives a better towing experience I'll keep it. Heck I've been towing without WD for the last 4k miles, but I've had an annoying tail feeling about it. Would be nice to get rid of that sway as its not needed and just a hassle. Yeah this beastie has better torque/power than any ICE but mediocre 1500 payload at 1700 lbs, kind of a different world. Even with it being low slung with the battery floor, I've found it gets a bit boaty with carrying lots of payload, so possible I'm more susceptible to it even with Alcan, I'll have to see. Edit; for example, the truck doesn't support fifth wheel or bed campers. Fifth wheels have greater tongue so you'd quickly bottom out there. Bed campers, even a lightweight one, would have really poor handling I think. So yeah it's just a different thing that doesn't slot into the ICE lineup I'll stick with the Anderson for now, upgrade those springs in a couple weeks and maybe in the next year or two ditch the hitch. Hey so you are going bare nekkid on the hitch - what do you use? Did you change the ball or stay 2"?

Another use for the fuse located at the jack is to make it more difficult for a thief. When leaving it in a sketchy situtation, I lower the tongue and remove that fuse. Want my Ollie, they will have more difficulty than planned for. GJ

It would be a first for us too! There should still be a late registration.

Thank you Chris, for bring this to our attention! 😂 Every time a forum member brings up a maintenance issue, next thing I'm outside checking ours. That's for sure! Ours has no screen at all and no rust. I can stick the full length of my index finger all the up into the opening. Thought I better secure our drain to keep mice and bugs out. I cut a circle about 2 1/2" dia. Then cut a radius line to shape a cone. Then crushed the screen over a 3/8" socket extension and pushed it up into the opening. Same screening I used in the fridge vents.

I received email reminders from Josh White @ OTT. Last one was 8/20. You may not be on the list or maybe being flagged as spam. Perhaps they closed it down early because it’s full. But there are always cancellations, so give them a call and check on your email situation.

I believe late registration may be available, it just costs more. Contact Oliver: 1-888-526-3978.

I can’t believe registration opened on some unknown date and is already closed down 2 months before the event???? I got a camping site back in January and tried for months to register with Oliver. I called the park after I registered to tell them I was with the Oliver group and was added. I posted on this forum asking when they would open registration, as well. No answers. Why would someone not email people who registered to attend the rally to let them know there was finally a registration link? so now what? I already have a campsite, got that back in January. Why didn’t registration open at the same time as sites were available? I’ve been remote camping in Canada and Alaska since the end of May, so just thought to go online and look for a reg link. who should I talk with? Is there a registration fee? if you’ve never been to this event, it’s incredibly difficult to get details on it. it’s very frustrating, there should just be an email list you sign up for and an invite that goes out.

Hi I’m gonna be at my first rally. I registered to camp back in January, but the Oliver site wouldn’t let me register with you yet. I tried many times through May before I left on a 3 month trip to Alaska. Now I’m on my way back to Texas and checked to see if I could finally register and it was closed already ? I’m very confused. The event is still a couple months out. Anyways we are camping in site D14 - 2 adults. After planning this for over a year, I sure hope we still get to attend??? Tanya Phillips Todd Lape

The originals are uncomfortable and i have considered replacing for that reason alone. Ours look a bit too good yet for me to spring for it. Pass the ketchup, please. 😉

Operator error, no pressure gauge. Great posts by someone with knowledge of RV fresh water tanks, and the destructive force that has destroyed stick built trailers. This person worked for a manufacturer of tanks, including fresh water tanks for RV's

Interesting story: I actually had fixed the problem before I got the official description from Truma due to the time of day that I had the failure. I had been driving through a raging rain storm during the day, ended up at a campground near Allentown PA in early January 2024. Temperatures dipped to freezing , set up late evening at 4 County RV Park that night and could not get the furnace to run. Because I had driven all day in the pouring rain I suspected that water may have entered the exhaust / inlet port of the furnace. I could find no description for the error that I was getting in the documentation or on line. I decided to take a hair dryer and blow warm air into the furnace exhaust / inlet port and after several minutes I was able to get the furnace to fire up ( luckily ). Called Oliver the next day and they had no listing for the error. I then put in a ticket with Truma and I got an email a day later explaining what the cause may be. I haven't had the problem since.

The above is accurate for our 2018 Elite I... as nice as that refrigerator is, the Nova Kool R5810 will not fit through the "neck" between the refrigerator/microwave cabinet and the bathroom wall. We recently replaced our Dometic RM2454 with the Nova Kool R3800. It is slightly smaller overall than the OEM Dometic, but it has the same size freezer, which was important to us. JD was correct with his comment that the original refrigerator cabinet is "wonky" in multiple dimensions. I had to shrink the width of the opening in order to mount the R3800, so I also squared-up the floor and sides prior to the Nova Kool installation. We did have to disassemble the original Dometic fridge to get it out through that same "neck" as described above, although not in quite as many pieces as JD did... I took off the Dometic door and hinge brackets, the mounting flange (which was seriously double-sticky taped on...), and removed the cooling unit from the back of the fridge. Otherwise, the fridge "insulated box" remained intact and did not have to be cut up in order to remove it [although the sawzall was standing by... 🙂 ]

I was thinking the same thing!

Yes, they do. I had to replace mine a few years ago when it wouldn’t let water pass. It was right next to the back flow valve in the back of the basement like yours.

Agree to all that. The shop has been good to work with and I have called Truma a few times as well. But sadly yes, Truma does not allow any internal part of the VarioHeat to be replaced, even by their certified tech. The full unit has to be replaced 😞 It does sound like moisture and corrosion is the main issue with the VarioHeat. One suggestion is to run the heater every couple of weeks to help "dry it out" when high level of moisture /humidity is present. I am curious how you dried out your sensor?

Thanks for the update. Unfortunately Truma doesn't publish all of the error codes and it can add additional stress to an already stressful situation when you have failures on the road so it's good to document them here. Sadly often times, as you've found out, there is little that can be done as an owner to fix these appliances being that Truma equipment is extremely proprietary, they won't sell repair parts to owners and they require that all repairs be done only by certified Truma technicians. The problem of course is that Truma service centers are few and far between which is a problem when you're stranded on a trip. I will say that their service centers are top notch if you can make it to one of those locations. I haven't experienced your error but I did experience an E5H error code at one point which at the time was not documented anywhere. The response from the Truma service person was; "ionisation voltage recognized during standby mode. Could have been from a solenoid sticking for a moment due to moisture on the sensor, or a voltage spike". As it turned out the service person was correct and it was simply moisture on the sensor which I was able to dry out. The other unfortunate thing about Truma appliances is that often times the "fix" is to replace the entire unit no matter how simple or inexpensive the failed component is. Along those lines the unit to replace the failed unit is a refurbished unit of unknown age / history. The unit will be "factory certified" so there is that but be sure to fill out your warranty card! Hopefully you'll be good to go and you won't experience any further problems. Enjoy your trip!

Reminds me of the pictures you get after a colonoscopy. Bill

I will get an external screen cover to put around the overflow pipe, like those that cover furnace exhausts.