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If you like that you gotta try regenerative braking at 0.5 trailer gain! I’ll pull 130 kW silently on the regen and bring you to a full stop, it’s nuts. I have to lower the regen to the moderate level as the high level is too much. Big batter == more regen capability basically. Anyhow yeah the first gen trucks like Lightning, CT and Rivian aren’t for towing, but these second gen Sierra + Silverado are pretty hard to beat as a camping companion. Power is the one thing I don’t worry about boondocking. I’ve talked about it before but I haven’t mapped a trip yet that doesn’t have charging close enough for these trucks. The only vampire I notice is the WIFI (TP-Link travel router), slowly but surely it’ll eat at the battery and heat up the attic, even on Eco. Not a problem with all these kWh really but its’ annoying, I turn it off at night. I wifi hotspot mooching and tether my unlimited plan phone for the family otherwise.

Yeah cutoff switches, the solar pokes into the cabinet but the inverter is on the main layout panel under the bed. Stuff under the beds makes sense - I was wondering with the double hull how you’d access everything but it works great, except when you need to get to them! I’m fine with the electrical, that’s a rare interaction, but the water valves are super annoying. Why didn’t they put a Nautilus panel or the like just under the curb bed? Your motorized valve solution is cool.

I'm assuming you mean the cutoff switches. That's cool and quite an improvement. I had to move everything out from under the beds!

The inverter, the solar is up in the street side cabinet

Hey if Lance's idea works and OTT has such parts at a reasonable price, then cool! In my experience, after entering six (6) service tickets, I strike out every time! I stopped even thinking to ask and channel my efforts into DIY! 😎 This is not a difficult project to custom build yourself! I removed the original microwave for an oven, so check my mod thread below to see what you'd be getting into (when you see my first picture, I added the 2x4s to provide a base for the oven). I see 3 steps in creating a custom cabinet: 1) Remove microwave, fill screws holes on face, file smooth the rough cut opening 2) Clean and line the internal cavity with poly sheeting 3) Ordering and installing new cabinet doors The microwave bezel comes out with 4 corner screws. Our microwave (not that OTT installed yours the same way) had a bracket above it that was screwed in from the upper cabinet. Empty the cabinet and the mat liner and you may see 2-3 screw heads. I lined ours with fire resistant insulation for an oven. You could line yours with any thin PVC sheeting or the like, cut the five sheets to size and glue in place. If you want to get fancy, you could add a molding to hide the cut edges. Also, use Marine-Tex to fill the screw holes in the face. That's step #2 above, now for the finale. Measure the opening for cabinet doors. You must order cabinets somewhat larger than the opening. Go to Depot/Lowes or a cabinet shop to select your cabinets of choice. Get your wife involved in this step of course. Your options are endless! Also think about the hinges. I'm not a woodworker or cabinet guy, but purchase hidden hinges that mount to the interior walls vs. anything that would screw into the face. Then you want a good latching device for both cabinet doors so they stay shut while towing. Staff at the cabinet shop could advise on proper hardware. Can't wait to see your mod post, if you go this direction, take the plunge! It's a good project that you can personalize and when finished have pride in your work every time you use it or look at it! 😎

Check with service. They may have some of the interior cabinet shells, framed and lexan doors that were left over from when they offered the microwave delate as a build option. I ordered the cabinet and it has a nice gelcoat interior, light and frosted lexan door with matching chrome cabinet pull and hinges

Welcome to the forum! Mossey First picture Right click your 'M' and it will open your profile page. Second picture Click on the Red circled area marked 'Edit Profile'

We ordered our Oliver #70 back kn 2014 without the MW. It came with a built in cavity of sorts which I guess one could call it a cabinet. The cavity was wood line probably 1/4 inch Luan plywood. Oliver installed a rather unappealing door during the build but did use the standard SS latches seen on the rest of the overhead doors. Once home I built a new door to replace the original one that appealed to us.

Hello. We are new to the Oliver forum. Just purchased a 2019 LE2 and love it. . However, not have much fun trying to figure out how to use this site. Trying to edit our profile is confusing. Is there a tutorial video or anything.

Our previous camper had Dometic/Seitz awning style windows that could be opened during light rain, really liked those windows, but they were plexiglass. Talked to Oliver about retrofitting an Oliver, but they are not ready to release information about retrofits, yet. Just looking and learning for now. 🙂

Before I purchased my Oliver I owned a NuCamp TAB 400 (great trailer) which had similar windows. Your comment reminds me of our second camping outing with our Nu Camp. I am over six foot tall and I broke the window near the door with my head!! However still prefer those windows over my current Oliver slide windows.

Every one of these that I recall seeing here on the Forum has been "custom" - that is, not using a pre-made cabinet. Good luck! Bill

Does anyone make a cabinet that has the fit and finish to slide in where the stock convection microwave sits?

I used a standard 1/2" wrench and made them hand tight. With a short wrench you cannot over-tighten it like with a socket and longer ratchet. Looking at your numbers, you want the 15-25 range, and I'd go with 25 ft-lb. There is no way 6-9 ft-lb would hold an 8mm bolt on a 4/0 lug! The cables would be lose in a few miles. Epoch has a history of numbers being different on data sheets vs. user manuals.

Just got my Epoch Essential batteries. Been looking through all of the specs on the Epoch I found conflicting information on the torque specs. The Data Sheet shows 8-12N.m or 6-9 ft/lb and the User Manual: 20 to 35Nm or 15-25ft/lbs. Any input on what you guy have torqued bolts?

I thought that when I reviewed the catalog link Rob provided. I'm the oddball here re taste in windows (and certainly other things 🤣). I'm happy we have the sliders and very happy after 10 years that ours are in excellent condition after replacing the white rubber seals with new black rubber. I like the one-hand operation whether standing, sitting, or laying in bed. I open/close the one by my bed every night and morning. Sliders may be better for security too, when left open while away for the day. Every time I pressure wash the Oliver, I hit the windows dead on and a little dirt and a lot of water comes out of every weep hole while staying dry inside. No similar tracks or weep holes in the awning windows, so likely a benefit of being low maintenance. I know some of you have leaks in your original windows and many of you want awning windows for better air flow and other reasons. I hope for you that these windows fit into the roughout openings of your hull with an easy installation! I'm looking forward to reading the first window mod thread on our great Forum! 😂

Are they still mounting them under the streetside bed?

😁 not a problem for us.

Windows in our LE2 have this ID tag inside of the window frame. Believe our rear window in our 2015 LE2 is different size compared to current LE2 rear windows. Please let me know if I have this wrong. In the following video at the 3:05 mark he shows how to identify the existing window to be replaced using the above ID tag when contacting Lippert, Oliver told me my windows were Lippert 8800 windows. Really like the Awning style glass windows that open 90 degrees.

You know, I've been worried about RV battery SOC ever since our first in 2018. But the Class A and then the Class C both had generators. I was adamant from day 1 with the Oliver that we would not run a generator. Battery and inverter/charger technology is here! You even got me thinking in a new way that an EV truck can be a proper TV! 😎 (Though no way we could afford one, and the old Dodge now with upgrades including exhaust brake is a joy!) I pulled out lead acid and a 2KW Xantrex, 2 years ago, and upgraded to the 3KW inverter/charger and 600 Ah LiFePO4. It took me a while to know what I can run and how long the SOC will last. Then last Black Friday we up'd to 900 Ah. In all our winter travels, I finally stopped worrying and I learned to use 3KW and 900 Ah to the fullest. Chris still worries some. After a week of travel, I remembered seeing 67% SOC and Chris asked could she use the Emeril (replaced the microwave with an air fryer). My reply was 67% of 900 Ah is equal to 100% of 600 Ah! Sure bake all afternoon of you need to! Love it. Our Chill Cube runs on ridiculous low power, consuming <30% of what the old Dometic pulled, and I estimate <50% of the power requirements of the Truma, Tosot, or any ON/OFF compressor model! This is amazing and sure helps the worry factor. We had 450 Ah in LA and that means 225 usable which would be our current battery bank at 25% SOC. I don't worry anymore! 😎 (When under 20% SOC, Victron and Epoch apps will warn us.) I believe that many of you with 600 - 640 Ah and 3KW inverter should think to worry less. Run your A/C and that Induction cooker, at least one burner! 🤣

This mod is awesome but I’d go KISS with a simple switch too. It’s very useful for troubleshooting, in fact on my maiden voyage I ran into trouble with my Xantrex and Oliver support wanted me to isolate the battery by taking the leads off. I wasn’t too happy about that - they’re torqued and I didn’t have the proper wrench with me, and maybe not the right sized sockets anyhow. Pretty crude just pulling those leads … fortunately I quickly realized that these Lithionics I got have the built in power switches. So easy, but not everybody has a built in cutoff. The ‘26’s already have two master rotary cutoffs, one for solar and the other for the inverter. Odd they didn’t do one for the battery

I know - I’m an EV guy so my brain thinks in kWh. I do continue it here since the truck is the main power source off park, so for example “if I’m at 79 SOC (State of Charge) of 220 kWh, then taking 8kWh for the trailer leaves me 169 kWh or 75% of the battery, which is at 1.3 mi/kWh 219 miles which is fine to get back to civilization … Yeah your right it’s 640 Ah I was misremembering, 7ish or 9ish kWh or something …

What I mean is as follows... We run our appliances on battery/inverter just as we would on shore power. I don't even like to hookup when hookups are available, not pulling out cables and hoses unless truly needed. I'll charge batteries, fill fresh water and dump tanks when leaving a campsite, given we are boondocking next. Often, I do not charge at all since as we drive away we average +40 Ah per hour towing with the Victron Orion 50A DC-DC charger! 😎 Our system can handle running our Chill Cube A/C, plus the induction cooktop at the #10 setting, while watching TV with soundbar, and if I wanted to push the system I could boil water with our 1100W tea kettle! Although running ALL of these appliances does add up to 3,000W! The Victron Multiplus II can handle it at default settings. It's rated at 3KVA and can run that in continuous mode. One time, I had our hot water heater running on AC, TV and normal stuff running and forgetting the HWH was heating I turned on the old dog Dometic P2 A/C (TG that beast is gone)! In a few minutes after the Easy Start got done with it's lame on-n-off routine, full power to the compressor, the Victron sounded an alarm! When I checked the app it was providing over 280A (3400W). But it didn't shut down, it just warned us, and it ran at that level for a few minutes. Looking at the amperage numbers, I remembered I had the HWH on electric (vs. propane). I hit the breaker to turn off the HWH and the Victron alarm stopped sounding. We did not lose our TV streaming, not even a hiccup in Internet connection of any other electrical need. Sorry, the Xantrex product will not do this. You can search for keyword 'Xantrex' on this forum to find dozens of posts re Xantrex inverters failing, or at least shutting down, error codes present. Yes, perhaps the default low voltage cutoff is set too high, but that's not all of it. The Victron MP2 also has the PowerAssist mode where if connected to 15A source, it will use that and add inverted battery power to carry higher loads like an inefficient A/C unit. So consider this. When connected to 30A shore power (3600W) the Victron can pass through that power and add another 3000W for 6600W total. Of course nobody would need that or do that, but you could run 3 of the worse A/C systems, like the Dometic P2 on that power. We run our Victron inverter 24x7x360! We run 5 Victron devices in the Oliver (MPPT SC, DC-DC, Shunts, etc.) and two more in the truck which can read from the VictronConnect app. BTW, most of us state battery capacity in Ah units vs KWH. Your batteries are 9KWH (750 Ah)? I thought the max OTT Lithionics installation is 640 Ah. It is standard to use Watts for appliance specs, like the 1800W (150A DC) induction cooktop. I'm always translating into 12VDC Amps since the Victron and Epoch apps show +/- Amps.

Based on various conversations I believe that the new windows are Lippert 3000 FV, 48"x18". I have not been able to confirm that the dimensions of the hull rough opening have not changed. Tim

Geoff adds some new thinking here and a clever solid approach! Using relays/solenoids for high amp connections is a good approach! We keep our our Oliver outdoors, never winterized, parked often but never "in storage." She's been parked a few weeks now and our batteries with rooftop solar are currently at 99% SOC. Needles to say, parasitic draw is not a concern of ours. I believe that adding a cut-off switch to the main 4/0 cabling, adds a point of resistance and possible point of failure. Geoff's solution does not interfere with the main power connection. Just 4/0 hardwired straight to the inverter is a good thing! Yet our friend GJ garages his Oliver for 8-9 months on the mainland while he enjoys Aloha-land! Extra precautions must be made if you're out-of-sight of your Oliver for this duration. Both solutions fit the differing needs of 2 Oliver owners! 😂 I'm old-school in that when servicing any vehicle, the first step in the service manual is "disconnect the ground." This is more trusting than any switched solution! I installed the 4/0 wire with the main ground connection closest to the opening. I can disconnect it in just a minute with only a 1/2" wrench, without rolling out a tray (ours was deleted) or removing the locking cover plate I installed (not shown in picture). Very safe too, since there is really no way to touch the positive lead which is 6" further into the bay. I disconnect rarely, haven't done so since I added the 3rd battery last year. The main ground is right there when needed! Call this the #1 most basic option, no switch required! 😎