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That would be great! I think Oliver is getting some name recognition, and if this was the place to find a used one, or even a new one sold at the factory, all the better. I say Oliver is getting name recognition because this week two sets of campers knew mine was an Oliver, and I have no decals on my trailer. Both commented on the reputed build quality of Oliver.

Where's the snow in CO and where's the gator in MS?

Thanks for the detailed options. @jd1923 - Please rest assured - that was a “before” photo from my “replace the completely trashed factory shocks with bulldog shocks.” I should have cropped that out - I was just trying to get a reference for the axle type and that was the best photo I had in my library of the hub. Will put in some better photos this morning. I was so focused on getting a good clear hub shot that I didn’t see the “gorilla” in the background. Will report back on findings. Am also going to call the folks at Alcan for their thoughts. I just wanted to get the thoughts out of my head and into the forum brain before going to sleep last night.

AND - IF all of this is true (I suspect it is true), we just might get our "classified section" back here on the Forum. Bill

You are correct. I know nothing. My original post includes the fact that 3 separate issues were found and corrected by the last mechanic involving both truck and trailer -- and the fact that the warning lights disappeared and my trailer brakes worked for 3 solid days. Maybe you didn't see that part of the post -- or maybe you have concluded that none of those 3 things contributed to the issues? I'm suspecting that the wires behind the vanity may have worked loose again, as I was traveling. I cannot be certain that any of these issues were even partly the cause of the warning lights or partly the cause of the intermittent loss of the trailer brakes. I'm going to remove that vanity panel again, and take a look at the junction box. And when I get to Lake Catherine SP, I will see if I can rent a U-Haul trailer in Hot Springs. It looks like one of them is open on Sunday and Monday. I will let you know the result.

Seems like they have tuned up customer service too.

This could be nothing. Could be something squeaking from the new leaf springs. Alcan torque numbers are high. The springs or a very tight bolt can squeak. But to answer your first question, "should I be worried?" There are things you could look into... First thing you can do in the morning, parked at the campsite, is use your stabilizer jack to lift that side up. Spin both tires one at a time. Hopefully you do not here squeaking running this test because it would mean a Nev-R Lube bearing is failing. However, this is not a conclusive test, since when lifted there is no load on the wheel bearings. These bearings can last many years, warrantied for 5 years, but can fail at any time. A low probability cause since your Oliver is relatively new, unless a whole lot of miles have been towed. Also, with the wheels lifted do the 3 - 9 o'clock position pushing back and forth and 6 - 12 positions to see if there is any free play. If good, you should NOT be able to budge the wheels at all. After you break camp, do some slow towing forward and backing up in an open area where you can take your time. One of you driving, the other with ears close the Oliver wheels on the side it's squeaking. See if you can reproduce the sound and try to pinpoint the location if possible. Your shocks look terrible! The bushings were greatly over-tightened when installed (bushings flat and way too many threads showing above the top washer). Shocks can make squeaking sounds. This would be your best-case scenario as you can drive to Texas and back without shocks on an Oliver without causing harm. In fact, if you believe it is a particular shock, remove it to see if the squeaking goes away. At some point they should be replaced, but they are not critical in your getting home. If it gets worse and you're not too far already from Alcan Springs, it may be a good idea to go back. You're a customer. They have the tools and expertise and would certainly take the time to help you. If it is a bearing failure, they could change it for you, and likely under warranty on a 2023 trailer! They are a Dexter Authorized Reseller. At least call Lew or Tim. Let them know of your situation and get their advice and help if needed. If it doesn't get any worse, you could play it by ear and continue to Wyoming. Keep in mind a return through Grand Junction to Alcan Springs may be necessary if it gets worse. This sure beats being somewhere else in the country, far from home, not knowing where to go for service. Best wishes to you in your travels! JD

Reset 2.0 (2023 Hull 1364 LE II) with Dexter Neverlube factory axles. We are on the road leaving Grand Junction with brand new Alcan springs and headed up into Utah and Wyoming. Yesterday after picking up and today backing into a site in Utah I noticed a slight squeak when backing up. (1) Should I be worried? (2) What should I look for while I am doing under trailer yoga tightening the u-bolts etc. Per the yellow sheet I tightened the bolts to proper torque at 12, 75 and will do in the morning before we hit the road. Also wheel lugs to 100 ft lbs based on the forum information. Brake test on leaving the park this morning worked fine, seemed to be more powerful so I reduced brake gain to 5 from normal 7. Attached a photo of the axle hub for reference - what should I be looking for? Let me make this clear - I don’t think that this is something from the spring install, but need to know what to look at. I don’t want to kill the brakes on the way back to Texas through ignorance.

I'm trying my best to help, reading your posts carefully, advising based on my experience. My written words are not always kind, but I am a caring person. I understand the frustration you have endured gets emotional. I remembered you are a woman traveling alone in your Oliver. I feel total respect for you since it takes Chris and I working together to do what you do alone. Love of your Oliver is likely equal to my love of ours with all I've put into its care. How is it you know this? Does "was" mean in the past? I believe the word AND to mean defects exist simultaneously in both truck and trailer. I cannot arrive at this conclusion from what you have written and it's more likely a one or the other issue. Before you do anything else, please pull another trailer that's not your Oliver. If you get the same error message, even once for a few seconds on your truck while towing an alternate trailer, then it's the truck's brake controller system that needs service and you Oliver is fine as-is except for wiring cosmetics. If you stay hitched to another trailer for most of the day, start and stop, tow it on and off several times and not a glimpse of the same error message, then Oliver service is required. You do not need garage or tools to rent a U-Haul trailer. Your issue is not likely the grommet on your brake backing plate, though yes there is a small chance it could be a brake wire shorting which the ammeter test could prove.

Hello to the Ollie crossing the Knik River bridge on the Glenn Hwy. in Alaska. Our son passed you southbound about 15 minutes ago.

This is in the beautiful US Choctaw Lake NF campground, located in central Mississippi. It is full of songbirds, lush and lovely.

Sold my emotional support tent to an outfitter 🙁🙁🙁 It was painful but the funds can go toward the Alcan upgrade where is everyone? we hiked some Crested Butte and Gothic Colorado trails today and the mountain flowers are just starting to bloom, July is the big blooming season they say Crested Butte is the Saint Moritiz of Colorado

Maybe JD will illuminate. It would provide access to those wires, without requiring disconnection at one end or the other, and that could be an advantage. Since I don't understand how they are connected at each end (or how to access where they are connected) I can't even guess how hard it is to .... access or replace them. Maybe it's not as hard as it seems.

I have often wondered why JD and others have used "cable loom" for the trans axle brake connection upgrade. I think a piece of 1/2 inch of CPVC (Hot Water, which is smaller in diameter than regular PVC) would work just as well, but give better stone protection. Just musings from a RoF. GJ

Yes. I certainly did. And Yes it is my Oliver. And yes I love my Oliver. I'm trying to take care of her. There was a problem with the truck AND with the trailer. I wish I were an expert mechanic, but I'm not. I wish I had more space for tools, but I don't. I appreciate your posts -- they are usually very informative. I don't own the equipment, but I am trying to learn, and I lean on the forum members who have the expertise and/or experience to help me. I bought a caliper last year, but it wasn't very helpful to me trying to measure the size of that hole in the axle to figure out what size grommet I need, because the wires don't allow me to insert it fully. hahaha -- more wasted money, perhaps. Service Dept couldn't / wouldn't give me a clue. So I ordered a box of 200 grommets off Amazon that are shipping to New Mexico where I hope to make progress on this thing. Unfortunately, that is the way this issue has gone for me. If I knew a lot more about these systems, I might not have been taken advantage of by lazy or incompetent people. What's a girl to do? Learn. I'm learning.

I have no idea what gave you the impression that I have dismissed anything. I've done my best, given no space to "work" on my Oliver (not at home and not in storage) and given no tools (very few, I should say, because ALL of them have to be stored in the truck or the trailer, as I have no garage). I take everything here to heart. Please cut me some slack. I'm trying, believe me, to end my nightmare.

Welcome. We have a Fort Knox hitch lock for the Bulldog coupler.

In process of getting the 2-5/16

Both the rocker switch and dimmer to replace it have ground, 12v+ power supply and 12v+ load connections. The dimmer comes with a wiring diagram. The red wire on its pigtail was labeled "power", the ground wire was black and the yellow wire goes to load. The Oliver wires aren't labeled so you'll need your multimeter. In our trailer there were two red (power and load) and one yellow (ground) connected to the rocker. I had to supply crimp-on 4.8 mm spade connectors for the pigtail wires, and I used a 7/8" step drill to enlarge the hole. It was one of the easier mods I've done.

Thank you sir and I’m definitely excited to get into the Apex! I appreciate the advice and “yes” I’ll be at the annual rally (site F-22 to make your Topgun moniker smile…).

ADK - The first thing I would do is contact Oliver and ask if they can give you any information on how that original floor was constructed. Below is a pic of what I believe is under the floor that you have in your pic. Bill

@ADKCamper, I don’t know, we still have the Dometic absorption fridge. My first thought is to drill small hole in the center of the floor carefully. Then poke a screwdriver down to see how much room you have. Then use a hole saw in the same spot so you can get a mirror down there, or maybe you have one of those endoscopic cameras. Very likely you’ll remove that bottom sheet. How was the original fridge supported? If the new fridge is designed to be floor supported, you’ll need to build a proper platform. I’d also search the Forum for keyword Nova or Kool. I remember reading a mod post on this model fridge. You also need to deal with the LP line. I’d want it terminated under the hull so no chance of leaking gas inside. The flare nuts on the T-fittings below are extremely difficult to turn without bending the copper pipe. Use two good wrenches and hopefully you can replace the T with a straight coupler. Something else to consider.

Does anyone know how the floor under the refrigerator is supported (2018 Elite I model)? I'm replacing the Dometic absorption fridge with a Nova Kool compressor fridge. The "floor" of the fridge cabinet appears somewhat unsupported... the left side will flex when I put some weight on it. The caulk/adhesive seal between the floor and the left wall has also separated; not sure if that was what supported the floor or not. I'd like to tear the old floor out and put something solid in, but have no intel on what is below to support it? I've found a few threads that discuss the cabinetry (nothing square/plumb, lots of caulk and foil tape), but only one reference to support below the floor and that looks like a custom aluminum welding job (that I'm not capable of) on a much newer model. I'm leaning towards supporting a new floor with some aluminum angle attached to the side panels, absent any good solution to beef up the existing floor...