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I spent a lifetime in full spectrum manufacturing. The "Voice of the Customer" was a big deal to us. It meant everything to us. We would have given anything to have something like this forum to hear what our customers were saying about our products. I promise you our CEO would read it, and I'd bet dollars to donuts it might be a topic at some of the meetings. Listening to your customers and acting on their feedback is the foundation of customer success. That’s why a Voice of the Customer program is critical for delivering value and driving durable growth. https://www.gainsight.com/essential-guide/voice-of-the-customer/

Can we assume that you purchased this Ollie "new"? I've never seen that kind of installation. Bill

I failed to mention - If you stay in Lambert's campground and eat at the restaurant be sure to mention this to your server and you will receive a 10% discount on your meal. Bill

It might not hurt to send a letter (or even an email) to Jason Essary kindly asking for his help in rectifying your issue. Good luck. Bill

Whenever we’re in Branson we visit the Keeter Center. Great food, nice gift shop. Students wait tables as a part of their tuition and it is always a good experience. Mike

I believe that it is obvious that the sons of the original founding fathers of the company still do care deeply about the product that they produce and we all enjoy. Do not confuse this with the original (and continuing) generous reasons that the Forum was created. Oliver established and pays for our OWNERS Forum as a place where Oliver owners and prospective owners can get together to discuss (without Company influence) all things related to our trailers and have never sold or released the names or any other information related to the Forum to anyone outside Oliver (unlike other platforms that use this method to generate revenue). The Moderators are NOT paid or are in any way influenced by anyone at Oliver nor (to my knowledge) is anyone else connected with our Forum. There is one person (paid by Oliver) at Oliver whose job it is (amongst a bunch of other jobs) to help us with things related to the proper performance of the platform that is used to operate the Forum. And, from time to time other personnel will take a look to see what is going on. There are also those rare occasions when the Moderators (and/or other members of the Forum) will "alert" staff at Oliver of a particular discussion that might be of direct interest to the company. That's it - this is OUR Forum to run and control with extremely little influence from the Company. Bill

Seems odd. I'd think a person with their name on a bespoke product, built by a company started by the elders, would be very vested in what their loyal and passionate customers say and think.

If you want a real dining experience in southern Missouri eat at https://www.keetercenter.edu/Dine/Dining in Branson. Camp at https://mostateparks.com/park/table-rock-state-park

As I read through the replies my memory fades back to several tire foibles of the past. The Michelin's on my 2004 truck had similar bulges. and yet I got 45k out of them, my newer 2018, had one with a "dip" in it, and had no problems. The real issue for me has usually been nails, bolts, or some such road trash trespassing into my tire causing ruin and destruction - a flat. I had great experience with the rubber on my former Ollie, no problems. Ran tire monitors, which actually resulted in more stress overall - "why is that left rear hotter than the left front, oh look, the left front is 2 psi diff, and on". I know they are good for sudden blow out, otherwise, well, not so for me. I don't recall what brand or size is on the 2027 LEII and I'm sure it will be just fine until that screwdriver jettisoned from the electrician's truck bed finds its way into the right front tire sidewall, ending the short life of a full tread left tire. My luck in a nutshell.

Here's a 2022 thread about Oliver changing to Goodyear Endurance ST tires:

Checked online for other Goodyear Endurance ST sidewall bulge discussions: Discussion 2026: https://www.airforums.com/threads/sidewall-bulge-on-new-goodyear-endurance-tire.2207120/ Discussion 2025: https://www.mygrandrv.com/threads/goodyear-endurance-tire-bulge-on-2025-2500rl-safety-risk-and-warranty-options.1200094/

Thanks Snackchaser, that makes sense.

Those are probably the emergency breakaway switch for the breaks and the CO monitor. They take a direct feed from the battery.

A jack screw! Thank you, and thanks for the photo. That's what I'm looking for. Now I know what to ask for.

Looks like they installed a flexible tube and left a twist in it. You might try loosening a clamp and twisting the kink out. Unfortunately that kink could be set and it seems like too a tight bend even for a replacement piece. Oliver should address that despite the expired warranty, it was just a poor installation from the start. Good luck, Geoff

Thanks for the detailed response. I agree—the wiring is a mess, and that’s exactly why I’m redoing all of it. I did not know about the failure rate of the Optifuse. I’m also curious about the maximum of three wires on a lug, and why there are two connections ahead of the Optifuse. For my upgrade, I’ll be using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor with ANL fuses.

It looks like you're missing the hold-down jack screw. See my post: "A different refrigerator fan option" for a picture of it. It looks like the nut part is still there from your photo, so the bolt might be laynig in there somewhere. Look behind the master switch panel, through the round marine port access, that is where it's tightened or loosened from. Good luck, Geoff

I'm not very handy so I haven't looked a lot under and around the bowels of our trailer, but recently I had an occasion to do so. Looking at my shower drain pipe I saw this: It appears that the 1.5 inch drain line has collapsed. The shower still drains slowly and there's no leaks (yet?), but I'm a bit shocked. While the pipe from the shower pan is vertical, the connection to the gray tank(?) pipe appears to be at a 45 degree angle so that buying a new P Trap doesn't appear to be a good option unless I'm willing to re-plump. Is this normal? I'm open for suggestions.

Bummer! I have seen brand new tires with a "slight sidewall bulge" due to the lesser manufacturing process of some brands. Though I just looked at my flat bed trailer that has the same Goodyear Endurance ST tires, just a size smaller. No bulges on mine and they look to be rather well made tires. They are 7 years old now with likely only 2500 miles on them! I'm not changing them yet since lately we only use the trailer to go dirt-biking once or twice a year. A 12 ft 7K dual axle trailer with 650 LBS of cargo a few miles at 35 MPH, I'll take my chances! Now the Oliver is a different story! Our LT tires are near 5 years old. I never heard 5 years for ST, always seen 7 years. We have 19K miles on the Oliver in 3 years, prior owner had 2 years on the same tires with who knows how many miles, and there is no real treadwear. Every time I talk maintenance, I recommend removing the wheels for inspection when doing anything else! Grease Zerks, torque bolts and spend a few minutes inspecting each tire. I always remove all the gravel, and often while doing so, I have found a screw or some kind of metal in the treads. Wash the tires on both sides. It's easier to see a defect or new damage on a clean tire! Bulge just on one tire, make it the spare for now. Running at 55 PSI is a very good number for low sidewall stress. Could you have any prorated warranty left? (3 years 10K miles) Or if it's truly a defect, Goodyear might cover it anyway. You could drive by a Discount Tire or other Goodyear dealer when you get a chance. They should help to communicate with Goodyear for coverage. It's a shame that OTT installed tires already 1-2 years old, 6-8 months is more usual, less time with the large manufacturing volume of these ST tires. Why did OTT change to ST tires on 15" wheels? Do they make a 15" LT tire? I'm not a TPMS guy either and our vehicles are all too old to have OEM TPMS. I check every time I take a break from driving. Do a full walk around and eyeball all 8 tires before going. I do it with all vehicles, whether towing or not.

My microwave is loose and moves around inside its cabinet. A review of the forum suggests this happens from time to time and various fixes have been proposed. I'm asking the forum if I'm missing a piece that should have been installed originally. The photo below shows the two screws on the right side of the microwave stripped. This is the cause of the movement. The photo below shows a threaded socket(?) in the microwave cabinet ceiling immediately above the microwave. Nothing is attached or ever was screwed in there. I was informed by another owner that visited me, that there is supposed to be a piece that screws into this spot to hold the microwave in place. Is this true? When I called Oliver, Tech Support told me that I'm supposed to have straps to hold the microwave in place (see Oliver-provided photo below). However, my microwave (see below) has never had straps and there's no remnant of torn straps or stripped screws. Because my trailer is four years old, I'm being told that it's out of warranty and I will have to fix this. I'm not very happy with Oliver right now. I'm looking for confirmation of a missing piece or not and what that piece is called so I could maybe order it. Tech Support said I will have to run straps through the foam, secure them somehow, and reseal the compartment to correct what I think is their manufacturing defect. Thoughts?

Thank you. I had not checked out the 2019 Oliver Manual before. I just downloaded a copy. I see many differences comparing our older hull but still can be helpful.

We will be there on Monday. You will love the work that Easton will do for you.

Dean, WOW! I've seen some strange wiring but what happened here? Did they run out of buses on install day? The installer just bolts everything to the breaker, OMG! 🤣 BTW, this is the famous Optifuse! Many of these have failed, so that OTT has stopped using them! Search the Forum for keyword Optifuse. I'd be surprised if this isn't the answer to the issue of this thread, since everything not working, lights, jacks etc. is connected to this breaker. Do yourself a favor with your upgrade and replace the Optifuse breaker with an 60A ANL fuse and holder. Oh, and add a +bus, LOL! Back in 2016, OTT used Bussman breakers (at least on our hull). They installed a 40A for all 12VDC lighting, jacks, etc. (pictured above) and a 30A Bussman for the rooftop solar. Keeping things standard, I purchased a 35A Bussman breaker to protect the Victron MPPT 100|30 SC that I added for our 400W Renogy suitcase solar. Three Bussman breakers, 2 of them 11 years old, the new one 2 years old, no issues. ANL fuses are more reliable as you certainly know when they are blown (always have a spare). Fuses will blow when there's too much current on either side of the fuse. Breakers are directional, so they only protect on the load side of the breaker. I have no idea what your two black wires are on the source side of your breaker. Trace them back if you can. If not, I'd wire them to a new bus with everything else. I have no wires before a breaker anywhere, meaning power to the breakaway switch on our hull does pass though the 40A breaker (OTT had not wired this to code). I know the breakaway switch works because I pull it to test for amperage to the brakes. When I moved these breakers to the dinette area, I found the wiring from the jack fuses to all 3 jacks ran towards the dinette area first (was surprised since one jack is right there and the curbside jack is another direction). I removed all that excess wire and removed 3 butt connectors on each of the 3 wires along the way. I crimped one fresh butt connector on each of 3 much shorter wires to clean things up. 😎

Does this mean the "fuse is good?" it's certainly not a conclusive test and it doesn't mean there's a 12V source connected to the breaker. +12V on the source side of the breaker shows you have connection to the batteries. +12V on the load side shows the breaker is closed providing a power connection to the bus. A dead (or disconnected) converter will only keep you from recharging batteries when connected to shore power. A running converter is not required to operate lights, the jacks or anything else 12VDC. Converter status is independent of these 12V loads getting power from the batteries.

Imelda, Thanks for the update, and I’m glad you’re able to get home with things as they are. Just a quick reminder—the jacks don’t receive their power from the converter, but more of a direct connection from the batteries through the 60 amp Optifuse shown in my above image.