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I’m keeping my axles, MAX Burner will be there for the axle upgrade.

Are you going with a disk brake version with electric over hydraulic? GJ

As they say, "you win some and lose some." I believe it was all the changes we went through on our trip getting here, but simply stated, we played like cr@p! We started the day losing but, in the end, we won big and had a great time at the tournament! We're thinking next year we'll just come to watch. They had a very short format for us amateur players. No time to get truly warmed up and play well. Long story short, we watched 4 great matches courtside. The best was a with an ATP tennis pro we have followed since he first turned pro as a teenager in 2011. Jack Sock was a recent great US tennis player. His highest ATP world ranking was #2 in doubles, #8 in singles, and he medaled in the 2016 Olympics for the US. He retired from tennis last year and he says his second career in pickleball will be all about having fun! What a great player, humble/polite guy (always takes his hat off when shaking hands at the end of a match) and crowd favorite as he kids with the crowd regularly. The pics will tell the story, but after catching an out ball, and a free Selkirk hat, Chris snapped the picture of me and Jack!

I don’t want to hijack the OPs thread, but to all of you that’s also using the external Solar suitcase port as a power source, I assume that’s only possible if the charge controller is part of the solar suitcase and not inside the the trailer?

We leave on Wednesday the 8th. We’ll probably leave late morning.

What? No extra red klister? 😇

The DC/DC connection is the primary purpose of my bumper-mount install, but great for a convenient 12v power source. 💥KAPOW!!💥

Our solar power port is similar to the Z-Amp one. I chose to mount it on the battery compartment door itself. Ran wires to the litho's and shunt with a fuse in line. Rationale is keeping the run as short as possible and not drilling another hole in the fiberglass wall of Ollie. GJ

Yep they do work on the spares. Researched and then called the MFG and they confirmed my faulty memory. Have re-written my above post accordingly. The transmitter sends a milli-second burst of the ID number, pressure and temperature data whenever there is air pressure from the tire to the monitor. It will be read on the monitor IF: It is within it's range Has a good battery AND it is not shielded from the monitor (Such as under the vehicle was for my Toyota Sequoia For my Sequoia the tire sensor was shielded well and did not work. I'll be re-installing the sensors on my spares this summer! GJ PS: For winter storage, recommend the Egg Carton storage suggestion with removal of the batteries from the sensors to protect from potential battery generated corrosion.

We applied some blue backcountry ski wax last summer - still smooth articulation in and out after 8 months, FYI.

Same here. We use the same Anderson to connect the 12v-12v Charger between the TV and OTT. The fitment is such that they clean off oxidization enough for a good contact every time they're plugged/unplugged. Not cheap, but bomb proof...

I’ve got spray silicone and paraffin, so looks like we’re in business. Thank you @John Dorrer and @topgun2!

My new springs should be here next week. That will make The Outlaw Oliver the oldest trailer to have them retrofitted to. I am excited to get them and although I've never had a problem with my original 5-leaf springs that came with the 5200 pound axles, I'm super confident that the new stronger Alcan springs will be much better.

We just returned from a 5 week trip west in our 2021 LE1 with 260 AH of lithium newly installed and 300 W of solar - 200 W on top and an outboard extra 100W panel. We had several 5-day boon docking sessions and never had a problem with keeping power around 100% - or getting it back up to 100% after a cloudy day. BUT, we had mostly sun and we have the 3 way refrigerator running on propane. The bigger challenge in boon docking was running out of fresh water, or needing to dump grey or black tanks. Full time would need water and sewage hookups, at least, we suspect. And electricity via shore power or a generator in cloudy seasons. One other challenge - we needed to develop careful choreography and rhythms to live well in a tight space. And our dog had to learn them as well!! We actually had a lot of laughs as we figured them out!! Geoff

Concur 100%. We put north of 1900 miles on the Alcan's on our last trip to Dallas from NM. Subjectively, high cross winds on I-40 near Amarillo did not cause nearly as much roll as before replacing the spring packs. We ran the tires at +/-50psi the entire run. Nothing different noticed inside the rig after stopping (window shades still attached, converter door under dinette still closed, glass flowers & vase still on dinette table, etc.). We'll be in Hohenwald 8-9MAY to have a couple 5.2k# Nev-R-Lube Dexter's mounted over the Alcans - so, we'll probably miss meeting you and Carol until we make it down to the rally...FYI Safe travels, All... Cheers!

Basically (like Steve) I've used dry silicone. A couple of times per year is all it takes. Wax will probably work but it is more work to put it on versus using a spray can.😁

We use Blaster products. We have both the silicone and Multipurpose. I use the silicone one on the steps

I have sprayed ours regularly through the years. I've used WD-40 (messy) and dry silicone lubricant (much better). Aluminum tends to want to "stick" to itself. I've not thought about using paraffin, but that is a good idea. It might stay on longer than my methods. Give it a shot and let's see how it works.

I have had my leaf springs replaced with the Alcan's and will soon share my feedback. My short ride home from my mechanic's place didn't tell me much but we'll head south soon for the rally and I'll report while we're on our way down. I'm planning to run my tires at 48 PSI. Will do as so many others have suggested and re-torque u-bolts regularly.

@Jason Foster The lithium pro package on the LE1 which is what i have is only about 2/3 the capacity of the LE2's having only 260AH of lithium and 240 watts of solar. On a full sun day its just barely enough to hold the batteries at a constant level and maybe get a couple % of charge but only for a couple hours either side of the suns peak. I might have some parasitic draw somewhere but after doing some rough math compared to what you're describing it looks like its just an inadequately sized system for running that fridge. i definitely dont leave the inverter on just turning it on and off as needed. Probably what ill end up doing is removing the battery tray to fit some larger batteries similar to what @rideadeuce has done as well as adding a pair of skinny 90W panels that ive had my eye on to either side of the AC. i was super happy with the performance of the system on my 2022 with the propane fridge so if i can get the 2023 up to at least a week id be happy with that. Of course a likely much cheaper option would be to source another propane fridge but thatd most likely require cutting a new exterior vent like the 22's and earlier models have.

I noticed the post about the rusted stair rod end and washers, and while that’s not an issue for us, it seems to be more difficult to get them started to retract than when we purchased our Ollie. I was thinking about using paraffin or some other dry lubricant to “grease the skids”. Any suggestions?

The rod and washer on our Hull #1291 are not rusted either, even though they have been wet many times. They appear to be galvanized steel. Makes we wonder if Oliver recently received a batch of poorly galvanized rods and washers. I concur with Topgun's recommendation: send the photos to Oliver Service via a service ticket, and request a replacement rod, washer and cotter pin.

Here are the pics in jpeg format:

Yes - after I downloaded the pics I can see them. Suggestion - send the pics to Oliver Service and ask for a replacement rod and washer. Bill

IMG_2737.heicIMG_2738.heic If you can see these pictures, any suggestions?