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Thinking maybe the name of the forums should change to Oliver University. We are always learning something new and sharing that knowledge with our fellow students and others. Many different subjects, all geared towards making us well rounded campers. Not sure if anyone has reached Masters status yet, that would be up to the Professors, but you know some are close. Maybe we need tests and diploma s?

Agreed. The residential plumbing codes absolutely prohibit ABS plumbing for carrying any water under pressure, because it has a poor reputation for longevity. For storage of potable water it is perfectly fine. For drain and vent systems, ditto. There is no valid reason to not use the existing tank if it hasn't been contaminated. Even if it has, it would be possible to sterilize it. I plan to plumb mine into the fresh tank, I just haven't quite figured out the details. The huge advantage in working with an ABS tank is that you can drill a hole and simply glue in a nipple for a vent or overflow line. For the polyethylene fresh tank you should spin weld it, which is problematic for an owner.... tho any RV shop should be able to do it if there is decent access. Tons of great info about repairs ... http://rvsandohvs.blogspot.com/2012/09/holding-tank-repairs.html BTW we are figuring out options and will get a deposit off to the factory really soon. John Davies Spokane WA

The danfoss compressor type fridges are said to run better in hot weather, plus they require less venting and consume much less power relative to the 12V setting on the 3-ways - they only pull 3.75 amps when running. So roughly 45 amp hours per day assuming it runs half the time, 90 Ah if you leave the door open. They also aren't finicky about being level, can handle getting bumped around a lot, and they offer a bit more storage for the space they take up. Plus they're stainless and look cool, lol.