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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2018 in all areas

  1. OK, once again - there are obviously those of us that do not like Andersen products and those of us that do like them. The Blaylock's are better? Maybe and maybe not. I will do my utmost to treat ANY attendee at our OWNER'S RALLY with the same courtesy and respect as I give to any other. Bill
    2 points
  2. The manufacturer of the on-board jacks does NOT recommend using the jacks to lift the weight of the trailer even as a temporary use for changing a tire. New model trailers have an extended steel sub-frame assembly that provides ample room for a jack point either in front or behind the tire that needs to be changed. Older models may not have enough room on the steel sub-frame to use a lifting jack(scissor jack or bottle jack). If this is the case you will simply locate the main frame rail point closest to the tire that needs to be lifted and use a lift pad that will help to distribute the weight. Owner’s manuals may state different things as changes occur every year in the RV industry. There are several reasons why these changes might occur from year to year or even in the middle of a production cycle. Sometimes new industry standards/codes are introduced and changes have to occur to meet these new standards. Sometimes components are discontinued and replaced with a new model that may not work just like the previous model. Sometimes companies simply make a decision change within the company to market their product differently. These are just a few of the reasons that change happens and why your owner’s manuals may be different. Product information is provided by the manufacturer of the component and is available online in the Oliver University section. Oliver strives to provide accurate information to every customer. The product information on components not manufactured by Oliver is dependent on the manufacturer or supplier supplying us with the correct information and as such may not always be 100% accurate.
    2 points
  3. It didn't take us long to see the benefit of having a screen door handle but I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in my screen door so I made these plates to install the handle without drilling. I used 1/8 inch X 1 inch aluminum and drilled and tapped for #8-32 X 3/8 SS screws. The plates "rotate" into place with the hook at the bottom fitting into the cross bar of the door to keep the assembly from sliding up in the door channel. I shortened the handle tube to 19-13/16 inches, slid the end caps on and attached the assembly to the adapter plates. [attachment file=127613] I know, a lot of trouble to go to when I could have just drilled the holes and been done with it but I think it makes for a cleaner installation.
    1 point
  4. This is a great reference. http://www.mrheater.com/downloads/dl/file/id/134/mr_heater_hfa_guide_2015.pdf John Davies Spokane WA
    1 point
  5. Interesting... our towel bar isn’t crap and really works well as a towel bar. It hasn’t fallen off and is still tightly mounted. We also have a command hook above it for the microfiber towel we use to wipe down the shower after we squeegee. Mike
    1 point
  6. It's easier to remove and install the spare tire cover if you stick something about 2-1/2 inches long in the spot where we used to put our gas cap (while filling up) when the gas fill tube was located under the car's license plate (years ago).
    1 point
  7. I know some will disagree with me on this but this is what works for me. I am on my 4th Dill system on the Oliver. This time I just purchased replacement sensors and stems as I kept my head unit from the system on our Escape. I have never added one to the spare and I don't rotate the spare to the ground. I have never found a need to rotate trailer tires. On a properly set up trailer they should all wear the same. There are no driving wheels or turning wheels on a trailer. I keep my spare at 80 psi and since I run my tires at 60-65 psi, I only need to check it once a year. I am from the school that unless you put on lots and lots of miles you will not wear out trailer tires. They will usually age out first. I replace all my tires on a 5 year cycle. I have been using the Dill for 11 years and never had a problem so I am very comfortable with their warranty. Here is the proper page for the Dill trailer systems. http://dillaircontrols.com/dill/category/products/tpms/trailer-tpms/ More info http://www.trailertpms.com/home.html The one for 4 tires is the 1504-416 and I purchased it from Tire Rack. The head unit will monitor up to 10 tires depending on how you program it. Just buy extra sensors. https://www.tirerack.com/tpms/detail.jsp?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqzWBRC_ARIsABSMVTM9ccVW2wjNOaeifeSdQNCVQOhltY4JXiwVrpbRJmdkv0GNLkTfpeQaAnACEALw_wcB&ID=2179&cat=Aftermarket+Systems&affiliate=HM5&ef_id=Wq-U_QAAAMrVVkN7:20180409131828:s Replacement parts https://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Dill%20Tpms
    1 point
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