Leaderboard

John, if you remove the shades and put a small dab of caulking onto the metal tabs and then reinstall them, they will stay on until you want them to come off again. A sturdy pull will break the slight adhesive bond of the caulk and they will come right off. I did this several years ago and they've not fallen off again. I did remove one once to clean the window track. Not having any caulk on hand to reapply, I just popped it back on and it has ridden just fine since. Apparently, the extra friction from the cured caulk is still enough to keep them in place.

While I am not an aerobic-anaerobic expert concerning bacteria, I have long studied the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae in my lab. Saccharomyces cerevisiae is used to make bread, beer, and wine. When making bread, yeast primarily grows aerobically. However, when the oxygen is depleted the yeast switches its metabolism from respiration (using oxygen) to fermentation (anaerobic). Of course a byproduct of yeast fermentation is the production of alcohol, which many of us appreciate. The colon itself is anaerobic, and thus the microorganisms in feces must be able to tolerate the absence of oxygen. The most common colonic bacteria, Bacteroides, Bifidiobacterium, and Lactobacillus, are obligate anaerobes, meaning they do not grow in the presence of oxygen. In contrast, the Escherichia coli gut bacteria is a facultative aerobe, meaning it can grow under either aerobic or anaerobic conditions. I know yeast will grow aerobically, initially, and then transition to fermentation when the oxygen is depleted. The timing of the transition will depend on how much oxygen is available, and how many yeast were placed into the container (the inoculum size). There are a number of variables in Spike’s experiment: How much air was in the bottles, the size of the bacterial inoculum, and the relative ratio of obligate anaerobes to facultative aerobes in the dog poop. I looked at their web sites, and they did not provide any information as to what bacteria these products contain. I suppose it would be possible to analyze samples and figure out what they contain. I agree that additional more dog poop experiments are not warranted. Spike’s experiment did show that TankTechsRX sharply reduced the unpleasant odor from the bottled poop. Of course, a compound in TankTechsRX that inhibits bacterial growth could have the same effect. The best experiment would be two composting toilets, with only one using the TankTechsRX product. After a week, observers would be invited to give sniff tests to the two toilets. The observers would have to be blinded, meaning that the observers do not know which toilet was the experimental and which was the control. Probably more information than anyone wanted….

@Raspy, John, is this the replacement window/shutter you mentioned in another thread? http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/ It looks like a wonderful idea. We've used a shirt over the head bump cushion for a lot of years. This is much more... elegant! Sherry

Mike, You have to open the door to get the screen door out of the way in order to move the shade. It has friction and stays wherever you put it, that's why it works right side up or upside down. I leave ours open about a third of the way (open at the top) during the night and open all the way during the day. This makes it easy to see out, and who is at the door, but not really possible to see in.

Please visit Progressive Industries website for the most up-to-date warranty information. The below information has been provided for informational convenience but may not be updated as quickly as the Manufacturer’s website. You can visit the website at: http://www.progressiveindustries.net/warranty Troubleshooting Guide Warranty Claim Form Limited Lifetime Warranty Our Lifetime Warranty covers only Progressive Industries’ workmanship, internal electronics and parts & materials contained within the unit housing. Any and all damage to the outside of the unit is not covered. External damage is typically associated with a poor connection between your RV or our EMS/SSP units and a power cord. The Lifetime Warranty does not cover labor or shipping charges. Our Lifetime Warranty is exclusive to Progressive Industries and is granted in lieu of all other express or implied warranties, obligations or liabilities. PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. This is a non-transferable Lifetime Warranty. It applies only to the original owner and covers only those products purchased from an authorized dealer, retailer, or seller. This warranty covers manufacturer defects in materials and workmanship. A proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims. The follow are excluded and not covered by the Lifetime Warranty and/or void the Lifetime Warranty: ​Improper installation of a hard wired unit. We strongly recommend that a competent electrical professional perform the installation of hard wired units. Products installed or used in an application other than an RV Products operated outside systems compatible and compliant with RV surge protectors Products used in a manner inconsistent with the operating instructions Use of replacement parts or accessories that are non-compliant with Progressive Industries specifications Damage to the surge protection unit, such as burnt, charred or melted components resulting from products connected to poorly maintained power sources, power cords or adapters Improper use including, but not limited to failure to disconnect upon departure from power source Failure to ensure electrical plugs and receptacles are clean and all connections maintain a snug fit when plugged in Failure to provide continuous maintenance in accordance with the maintenance instructions provided by Progressive Industries Any unauthorized modifications or repairs Maintenance of hard wired units performed by anyone other than a qualified RV dealer All acts of God and/or natural disasters including, but not limited to lightning damage, hurricanes, floods and earthquakes ​ How to apply for warranty service on hard wired units: ​Review troubleshooting guidelines located at: www.progressiveindustries.net Complete warranty claim located at: www.progressiveindustries.net. The warranty does not cover labor costs associated with repairs or replacement units. ​ How to apply for warranty service on portable units: ​Review troubleshooting guidelines located at: www.progressiveindustries.net Complete warranty claim located at: www.progressiveindustries.net Progressive-industries-Warranty-Statement.pdf

Please visit Progressive Dynamics website for the most up-to-date warranty information. The below information has been provided for informational convenience but may not be updated as quickly as the Manufacturer's website. You can visit the website at: https://www.progressivedyn.com/sales/warranty-information/distributor-warranty-on-power-converters/ *Below information was pulled from above website on 8/8/18 Summary of Power Converter Warranty Program for RV/Marine Distributors Progressive Dynamics provides a 2-year “Limited Warranty” for all Inteli-Power Converters sold to distributors. This “Limited Warranty begins on the customer’s date of purchase. The following summary of our warranty program was developed in cooperation with our Distributors and OEM customers. It is designed to meet the needs of the Boat / RV Owner, the Distributor, the OEM Manufacturers and Progressive Dynamics. FIELD FAILURES: 1. We ask that your retail customers contact the PDI Service Department Directly at 269-781-4241 for replacement of defective converters. Customers must have the following information available before contacting PDI. A. Model Number B. Serial Number C. Receipt showing Date of Purchase D. Visa or Master Card number 2. If our service personnel determine that the converter is defective and under warranty, Progressive Dynamics, at it’s discretion will then ship a NEW converter or a Factory Serviced and Warranted replacement converter to the customer via UPS Ground. The cost of the replacement converter will be determined based on the model number. The customer’s credit card number will be recorded however, this charge will not be processed for 30-days. The customer must then return the defective converter to PDI within 30-days or their credit card will be charged for the agreed upon cost of the replacement unit. If the customer requires faster shipment, the additional freight will be calculated depending upon Zip Code and charged to his/her credit card. 3. Once the customer receives the replacement converter, the defective converter should be returned to Progressive Dynamics in the same shipping carton to reduce the possibility of shipping damage. Power converters that fail in the field are to be returned to the PDI Service Department at the following address. Progressive Dynamics Service Department 507 Industrial Road Marshall, Michigan 49068 Telephone 269-781-4241 Fax 269-781-8729 DISTRIBUTOR WARRANTY PROCEDURES 1. We understand that in some instances the distributor must replace a defective converter from his stock. We ask that the distributor service department first test the converter (CLICK ON TROUBLESHOOTING POWER CONVERTERS) before replacing the charger. 2. If these tests indicate the converter failed, the distributor is to replace the failed unit with a NEW converter from stock. The distributor must then contact PDI Service Department (269-781-4241) and obtain an RGA Number to return the defective converter to the PDI Service Department. NOTE: The following data must be included with the defective converter. A. The RGA Number B. A copy of the customer’s receipt showing date of purchase 3. When the defective converter is received at PDI, it will be tested to confirm that the warranty claim is valid. Progressive Dynamics will then issue full credit to the distributor. This credit memo will reference the RGA number assigned. NOTE: The distributor or customer is responsible for shipping costs to return the converter that failed to Progressive Dynamics Service Department within 30 days. Progressive Dynamics is not responsible for Dealer labor or trouble shooting charges! PD4045-TROUBLESHOOTING.pdf

Bending our blind clips wider fixed ours from falling off too.

Spike, I did read your post about that and I did turn mine upside down. I haven't adjusted the clip shape yet though. I tend to like them better upside down too. I discovered that washboard roads will reliably make them fall off and I've been looking for a way to reduce the extreme vibration that occurs in the trailer. I thought I could lower the tire pressure on those roads and get by, but haven't found the answer yet. Meanwhile, the microwave has tried to escape twice, one overhead door still occasionally opens and the seat cushions will not stay put even when turned sideways. I have fixed the microwave situation by re-designing the cabinet and replacing the microwave. Thanks for checking back in about the blinds.

Raspy-- I posted my fix for this problem somewhere on the forum, but it is easy to explain again: I pulled the frames off, unscrewed the clips that holds them to the walls, used two pair of channel locks (one small and one larger) to slightly bend each end of the clips out to widen them, and replaced the clips. I haven't had the frames come lose since that fix. Oh, and by the way, I turned the frames upside down so that the "privacy" (opaque) screen is at the bottom, and really like how that turned out. Do be careful if using a powered screwdriver: The clips can spin and could cut a finger. (I held the clips with the small channel lock when unscrewing and screwing.)

I have flushed the grey tank (having an empty black tank due to the composting toilet) once since using TankTechRX. I figured that it would not be hard to re-establish the needed "culture" by re-introducing the product via the three drains after flushing. One thing that I DID check when draining the grey tank was the odor. (I don't use the big "stinky slinky" hose but have used the VALTERRA T1020-1 RV SEWER HOSE TERMINATION CAP WITH GARDEN HOSE CONNECTION to attach a grey garden hose to drain the grey tank.) After using the TankTechsRx for a number of days before draining, there was a noticeable reduction in the odor.

You may have run across what I call the Great Grey Tank Mystery. With our trailer level, I can fill the grey tank from the kitchen sink and when the tank is at 80%, the kitchen sink will start to back up. But the shower will not, and in fact I can still pour water into the shower drain without it backing up. Somehow, with all of the drains open, I can have a sink full of water backed up in the kitchen and nothing will flow out the shower drain. To solve the problem, we have to 'burp' the grey tank by tilting the trailer a bit to one side. Once we do that, the kitchen sink will drain and we can keep filling the grey tank to 100%. The problem has to have something to do with air getting trapped in some corner of the L-shaped tank, but I've stared at the plumbing diagram until my eyes go crossed trying to figure it out. Even so, I can't see how that would prevent water from backing up into the shower, unless there's a secret check valve on the shower. Anyway, suffice to say that in an Oliver, water doesn't always flow downhill.

Olivers are not perfect, but it might be a false comparison to claim that the cost of the trailer is so high that there is no excuse for any part of it to be less than someone's interpretation of perfection. Or to assume that things like a 12v fridge is an upgrade that should be standard equipment. I really like my propane fridge and don't want a 12v unit. I had a 12v unit on my boat and didn't like it. To me, a propane fridge is not cutting corners. It's silent and can run for weeks on a propane bottle. The Shure-Flo water pump is a fine unit. They are used on boats too and have proven to be very reliable and easy to get. Sometimes, even if something is not the absolute best quality, it is still the best choice if it is reasonably priced, reliable and easy to get. "Best" can be interpreted in a number of ways and it doesn't always mean the most expensive. Oliver really shines on most of their hardware. The cabinet latches, grab handles and shore tie plug, for instance, are the best I've seen and likely to last a lifetime. Then there is the amazing bodywork. I'll take that over anything else I've seen. Oliver is improving their wiring systems and mine is/was in need of improvement. I have a rats nest of Scotchlock splices in one area that is disappointing. I found it because various lights quit working. Mine would not charge from the TV and I found it had a missing ground wire. My battery cables are made from #8 house wire and were chafing in the battery compartment, threatening to short out and cause serious problems. And finally, they only wired the earlier trailers for the options ordered, so it is hard to go back and add equipment later, like a cell phone booster. Now, the wiring harnesses are standardized. I suspect that by the time Oliver gets up to about hull 700 or so, they will have the process streamlined to near perfection. But those trailers will cost twice what mine did. I spotted weaknesses in mine the first time I stepped in, like the window shade frames, the bare fiberglass countertop and the plastic suspension bushings that are barely good enough for a dump trailer, but I never expected perfection, just an excellent design that was built with care and consideration. And that is exactly what most of it is. So, when I see something disappointing, I just take care of it and move on. I've now upgraded a number of things myself and was glad to do it, such as a stainless steel countertop, heavy duty suspension parts, the water tank fix and improvements in the wiring. I also gave up on the DVD player and got tired of the microwave trying to jump out of its cabinet. I've now re-designed the entire microwave cabinet with a different microwave and added a mini wine rack and cooking utensil storage all in the same space, with a beautiful closing door that matches the rest of my countertop pieces and will not let anything "escape". So, the beat goes on and I like my trailer, even though it is by no means perfect. Here's a list of 30 of my "improvements" (and I'm not mad at Oliver), and six more that are on the list: 1. Re-designed microwave cabinet with new microwave, wine storage, and utensil storage 2. Fixed fresh water pickup system with spin welded fitting and dip tube 3. Repaired numerous wiring glitches including poor battery wiring, Scotchloc connectors and lack of a ground wire from the tow vehicle 4. Upgraded wheels to a stronger design and added full-sized spare tire 5. Added a spare tire lock and moved license plate to the body near the left tail light. 6. Installed stainless steel countertop over plain fiberglass top that came standard 7. Installed new kitchen sink faucet with shutoff valves under the sink 8. Added accumulator tank in the freshwater system (very important) 9. Added side backsplash next to the stove 10. Added extension to tank drain connection in the back bumper area 11. Installed new DVD player and Bose speaker 12. Moved the TV to center with a new bracket 13. Added additional memory foam pads under the mattress 14. Built custom jack stands to work with the electric jacks, to eliminate the round foot on the bottom of the jacks, and the blocks 15. Added a clothesline in the bathroom 16. Added a paper towel holder 17. Fixed overhead door catches that kept opening while driving 18. Still working on a fix for the window covering frames that like to fall off 19. Went to a 2 5/16" bulldog coupler (not necessary, but I wanted it). The original 2" coupler was not bolted correctly and was beginning to elongate the mounting holes 20. Added quick disconnect outside propane connection 21. Added 8" access port on the front of propane cover 22. Modified the roll-out battery tray to eliminate the play in the system and keep the batteries from hammering the catch. 23. Added a spray head and hose to the toilet valve. (not worth doing, it was a mistake) 24. Added a stick on light in the closet after I could not seem to fix the existing factory light that does not work 25. Installed a new clear/smoked door glass and pull up shade combo in the entry door (love it) 26. Installed two grab rails on the entry screen door for easy closing of the door and to hang towels 27. Installed a custom "coyote howling at the moon" logo on the front of the trailer 28. Upgraded to 30 lb propane cylinders 29. Currently upgrading all the wiring in the battery compartment and adding a solar plug for portable panels. 30. Adding a reading light over the street side twin bed Projects coming up: Kick panel on the lower part of the screen door Install a 3000-watt inverter Fix broken bath sink faucet, add shutoff valves, create access to the faucet connections and flex hose Install a bathroom door hold open magnet Install cell phone booster Considering a rear bike rack

Neat story, though I have no doubt that with care our trailer will last 20+ years.

John, I know you've not been within the Oliver fold for very long so you don't know the whole story. Perhaps a little history is in order. The name "Legacy" has nothing to do with the fact that our trailers will be here long after we've passed on and gone to our reward. It was chosen by the Oliver family to honor one of their own. You see, Jim Oliver, the patriarch of the Oliver Clan and Oliver Technologies Inc. which includes Oliver Travel Trailers had a twin brother - John Oliver. It was in the mid 2000's when these two men envisioned building a better molded fiberglass travel trailer than all the others that were available. Unfortunately, John passed away before that dream could come be realized but Jim carried it to fruition, and it is John's picture on horseback that adorns the front of the very first Oliver that was built. So, it was to John's "legacy" that our trailers are dedicated and I feel sure there was no deception intended.

Knowledge Base Article for Zamp Solar ZS-30A Charge Controller The Zamp Solar 30 Amp 5 Stage Digital Deluxe Solar Charge Controller # ZS-30A has PWM or Pulse Width Modulation, which is a digital signal that is used to control power applications and has 5 stages of charging for best battery health and longevity. This controller can support and is programmable for the 4 typical types of deep cycle batteries – WET, GEL, AGM and Calcium. We pre-set the controller at the factory according to what batteries are installed. 12 volt solar charging power. LCD screen displays battery voltage, charging current, charging capacity, battery types and faulty codes. LED light indicators show charging status and battery condition. 5 stages of charging: Level 1 – Soft Charge – When batteries suffer an over-discharge, the controller will softly ramp the battery voltage up to 10V. Level 2 – Bulk Charge – Maximum current until batteries rise to Absorption Level. Level 3 – Absorption Charge – Constant voltage charging (battery is over 85%). This stage takes longer than any other stage to complete. You will typically see your battery status remain in this stage unless you are not using the camper. The full battery indicator is about the last 2% and while running lights and other components it will remain in the absorption stage. *Battery volts displayed during this stage are charging volts not actual battery volts. Level 4 – Equalization Charge – Only for WET battery or Calcium battery type. When the battery is deeply drained below 10V, it will automatically run this stage to bring the internal cells to equal states and fully complement the loss of capacity. (Gel and AGM batteries do not run Equalization Charge). Level 5 – Float Charge – Battery is fully charged and maintained at a safe level. Fully charge is more than 13.6V. Includes a port for an optional external battery temperature sensor. Zamp Charge Controller & Digital Monitoring System (Battery Volts) Both systems will display charging volts rather than actual battery volts when power is being supplied to the batteries. Customer interaction The charge controller has 2 buttons. One button labeled Amp/Volts can be used to scroll through relevant information Amp/Volt Button Current battery volts or charging volts Current Amps being supplied to the battery (Initial startup will be lower amps and slowly increase to maximum output depending on sunlight available. Current total of Amp Hours supplied within the 24 hour timeframe. This setting will reset with every 24 hour period. Current Battery Temperature. (Displayed in Celsius). This is used by the charge controller to monitor the battery. Battery Type Button This is pre-set at the factory based on the type of batteries installed and should only be changed if you replace your batteries with a different battery type. Zamp Error Codes: P01 - Solar Panel Reverse Connection P02 - Solar Panel Over Voltage 601 - Battery Disconnected or less than 3.0 Volts 602 - Battery Reverse Connection 603 - Battery Over Voltage (> 17.5 Volts) 604 - Battery Temperature over 65C