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Ours are marked on the inside of the door, though a few are labelled incorrectly; and the attic switches are labeled individually (that was when they were using a Blue Sea breaker panel there which I don't think they do anymore). Maybe Oliver has started putting that list in the manual? Could be that they just forgot to stick the label on yours.

Agree with the above. I had planned to swap out tow mirrors on our Raptor, since they're not available from the factory, but found the stock mirrors to be perfectly fine. Tow mirrors are really only necessary when what you're towing is wider than your truck. Having said that, bigger mirrors are always nicer. I also agree with John D. An always-on rear view camera (I use a wired system from RVS) is a big asset, for backing up as well as keeping an eye on what's coming up behind you.

Use pliers to hand tighten them after adding silver antiseize compound to the threads. No worries. That “loosen a quarter turn” advise was really intended for stationary applications like a chain hoist .... but if you try that with a boat anchor, or trailer hitch, you may lose parts. Securing with heavy stainless steel safety wire is very good. I have never tried nylon ties but would worry about them since the white ones deteriorate in sunlight. Black would be better, and be sure to change them yearly. Leaving the hitch shackles loose makes it really easy way for somebody to walk away with your front section... do you want that? John Davies Spokane WA

I've never worried about this in that other than my once per year cleaning and/or repainting of the whale tail, I've never had the situation where I needed to take those shackles off. However, shortly after I took delivery of my Oliver, I did purchase stainless steel shackles (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace) so that I would not have to deal with the eventual rust on the stock ones. Bill

When I towed with vehicles other than a 1/2 ton truck I felt the need for rear side-view mirrors. But, since the Oliver is just about the same width as my F-150, I can see behind it just fine. Like John, I too turn on my rear camera when I'm in heavy traffic and/or am backing up - think safety here. That camera also helps avoid the bozo who is right on your bumper and just about the time you decide to move right, they jump out trying to get one car ahead. If you decide to get the mirrors anyway, don't get the kind that "strap" onto your existing mirrors. Those rubber straps are difficult to deal with and do not last more than a couple of years. Nor would I purchase the type that just "clips" onto the existing mirrors. This type that "slides" over the existing mirrors is better: https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-10700-Custom-Towing-Mirrors/dp/B000CISLSI/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1547649821&sr=8-18&keywords=slide+on+towing+side+view+mirrors Of course, mirrors that can be "tilted" back alongside your vehicle are great in that you can swing them back when getting into tight spaces and then back out when the area opens back up. I've never owned a vehicle that had mirrors that can be extended while towing since I've always thought that most of these were a bit ugly. Hope this helps. Bill

Certainly the Tacoma can pull the Elite II. But, it just as certainly has its limitations. Several years ago I was towing a "stick built" that weighed only 3200 pounds. Heading west on Interstate 70 into Kansas a headwind picked up and was blowing at 40 mph. My gas mileage went to 4. Yes, four miles to the gallon. With the relatively small gas tank in the Tacoma I HAD to stop every 120 miles to refill. I was not so worried about the cost of this as I was about being out in the middle of nowhere and not being able to find a gas station - they don't call the west "wide open spaces" for nothing. After that trip I decided to not take that risk ever again and purchased an F-150 with the large gas tank. Now, not only do I get better gas mileage but I never am worried about braking, running out of gas, pulling virtually any hill at virtually any (sane) speed or even my personal comfort with reduced noise levels and roomier cabin. Virtually all of the 1/2 ton trucks currently on the market will give you these benefits plus an added safety margin. Bill

YES, Andersen levelers are expensive, but, worth it. YES, "Legos" are cheaper, a little more difficult to use, but, they get the job done. YES, scraps of lumber are even cheaper, are heavier and can be dirtier, but, they also get the job done. NO, don't jack the axles. Bill

The manufacturer of the axles says never place jack stands or jacks under the axles to support the weight of the trailer. I learned about this after I decided to store my Olliver Elite II with jack stands under the axles. Long story, but the axles were replaced a couple of years ago following this ill-advised experience. But, how to level? The Elite II has three jacks that will allow you to level the camper if where you are parked is relatively level. I use Anderson Trailer Jack Blocks under my three jacks to keep from having to extend the jacks too far and to keep from having the ends of the jacks sink in soft or unstable soil. Expensive and they take up space, but I like them a lot. Go to andersenhitches.com and look at the trailer jack blocks. When the site is too uneven side to side to get the camper level without lifting the tires off the ground on one side, I use Andersen's camper levelers. I replaced my stacking blocks with these after my first year of camping with my Oliver and I'm happy that I did. Sorry about the multiple photos of the levelers!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796NYT79/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This one has worked out nice for us. Easy to clean and has held up pretty well to kids and dog.

I use a little 4" level I have had for years that fits in the drawer and is handy. You don't need anything big.

I wouldn’t jack under the axles. We’ve found the big yellow legos work well for side to side leveling. Lots of folks like the Andersen style. We fine tune with the back jacks. It’s quick, stable and pretty fool proof. Mike

Here you go '' a couple pictures from the FWD hatch in the Dinette . Its tight in there . I have a tool coming to see if i can get a quarter turn on it.......Thanks for all your help in locating the leak.......

I always raise the front of the trailer a few degrees. I want any rain water to run off the rear and not near the door. Also the bath sink and shower drain better. The refrigerator door does not swing open against the hinges either. Also makes for better dumping if you have full hookups.

I printed the chart below and placed it near my surge protector readout. Hope it helps you! Bill Error Code Chart E-0 Normal E-1 Reverse Polarity E-2 Open Ground E-3 Voltage High E-4 Voltage Low E-7 Frequency High E-8 Frequency Low E-9 Data Link Down E-10 Replace Surge Protector