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The views of our customers are of paramount importance to Oliver Travel Trailers. We will always strive to provide the best possible customer service and to identify and address all legitimate questions and concerns relating to our products or services. Oliver Travel Trailers values its customers points of view as a part of the “Oliver Family”. The Camco 40055 Brass Water Pressure Regulator is by its nature a flow restriction device as most pressure regulators work in this manner. Any water pressure regulator may be subject to failure. Failures are normally caused by a manufacturing or mechanical defect or physical damage. The Camco model 40055 has a preset water pressure (between 40-50 PSI) on the outflow side. This protects the camper’s plumbing from high water pressure that may be present at the supply and which would cause damage to the trailer’s plumbing system if left unregulated. This water pressure regulator is designed to ensure a safe pressure on the inside of the camper even when there is no flow but this device does not equalize to the higher pressure when no flow is present. Camco and other manufacturers make other water pressure regulators that are adjustable in nature and have a pressure gauge built onto the body of the regulator. Both fixed and adjustable pressure regulators perform the same function in broadly the same manner but one is adjustable and can have a visual reference to the reduced water pressure. Personal preference may dictate which one any particular customer may ultimately find preferable, but both do safely perform the pressure regulation function. In an effort to reinsure confidence of the 40055, we selected a random sample of three pressure regulators from inventory and subjected them to testing. The test method employed was a water pressure test with a supply pressure of 100 PSI produced buy our water pressure testing equipment. (All campers are subjected to an 80 PSI pressure test of the water lines as mandated in the RVIA Testing Regulations). A water pressure gauge was attached to the low pressure side of the regulator with water in the valve, 100 PSI of water pressure was applied at the inlet, the outlet recorded a pressure of 44 PSI, +or- 2 PSI on all three valves tested. This method of testing simulated a zero flow and did not result in an equalization of pressure to the higher inlet pressure. Furthermore when the 100PSI was disconnected from the inlet, the valve maintained the 44 PSI on the low pressure side until the pressure was relieved by removing the gauge (similar to opening a faucet). The observed testing appears to support the premise that the pressure regulator Camco 40055: Regulates incoming high water pressure and regulates it down to the stated safe pressure range of the regulator (40-50 PSI). There is no equalization of pressure between the two sides of the regulator under water present but no flow conditions. When high pressure source is removed, the lower pressure is maintained on the low pressure side of the valve until relieved by such things as the operation of a faucet. Our tests indicate that the Camco 40055 water pressure regulator performs its required function of reducing water pressure. As previously stated, this valve does not give the ability to adjust water pressure or give a visual representation of pressure, which may be the preference for some and a matter of personal choice. The manufacturers of the Camco 40055 water pressure regulator are happy to discuss any concerns that may arise in respect of any of their products. They can be contacted by phone at: 1-800-334-2004 or by email at: info@camco.net

There are brass fitting in the basement area just inside of the city and fresh water inlets. I have had both split and leak when introducing water. Oliver replaced both under warranty. I was told that there was possibly too much teflon tape on the fittings and they were tightened too much causing the leaking. Hull #381. If you need to eyeball these, you must remove the back wall of the basement and the black rubber mat from the floor and then pry up the floor.

Rumline - The good, the bad, and the ugly of Yellowstone can be had at many of the "first come, first served" camping areas. In my own experience I've had the times when I just showed up and got a spot - arrived after 11am. However, this was back in my tent and pop-up camper days when I could fit into just about any space. More recently I arrived just after five am and was third in line! And, yes, I then had to wait for the camper that was occupying that spot to leave. This was no big deal in that I simply took a nice nap inside the Ollie. Then, during the two weeks I spent in that campground there never was a day when the campground didn't become full by 10am. Of course there are a couple of campgrounds inside the Park where it wouldn't take you two hours to exit the Park. But, if all or virtually all the sites are taken inside the Park then you can rest assured that many of the closer in sites will also be reasonably crowded. I understand that "Fishing Bridge" campground inside the Park will be closed for a good deal of the summer this year. If that is the case, sites anywhere in the area are going to be a bit more crowded. Bill

I see now where you mentioned that before - thanks for clarifying. Please let us know when you find the problem and what it was.

Just to clarify one issue. I picked up my Oliver on December 12, Oliver had winterized the RV. I did not dewinterize until I was in Florida and temps were in the 50's as the low. If it is or was a frozen check valve, it happened while supposedly winterized in all areas or it wasn't winterized properly or it is a very vulnerable area.

Welcome GraniteStaters! My cousin lives in NH and we’re planning a visit and maybe then head up to Maine. I’m glad you were able to do the tour, it’s an eye opener and provides confidence on such a significant expenditure. The service and support continues after you pick up. You’ll get lots of advice and opinions on tow vehicles. We like our Ram 1500, it does a fine job and is a comforable daily driver. I may go with a 2500 next time because, well, bigger must be better! Mike

We've had ours installed for nine months now. Still as solid as day 1 and our son is not gentle with it at all. Very happy that Bill made and sold these.

You can make your own plastic scraper.... buy a scrap of 1/4” or 3/8” thick plexiglass at Lowes and cut it with a saw to a handy size, say 2” wide by 4 “ long. Use a belt sander to sand a 45 degree cutting edge on one side (run the belt away from the cutting edge so melted plastic does not build up there). Curve the sharp ends if you want to eliminate gouging. Curve and radius the end that goes in your palm so it is comfy. When the scraping edge gets dull, touch it up on the sander. I have scrapers of various sizes in my tool box that are over 40 years old, made from scraps of busted aircraft windshields and windows. They last forever.... well, almost. If you know an A&P, ask him to save you a piece of broken window. Plastic scrapers can quickly wreck pretty gelcoat, I don’t recommend using one unless there is no other way. Always use a lubricating solution, either soapy water or a mild solvent that won’t attack the plastic. Dry scraping just scratches! John Davies Spokane WA

One more thing forgot to mention. Rubbing alcohol is a good prep for vehicles it does remove wax to make a clean surface of added decals graphics etc. After removing the sap it would be a good idea to re wax those areas.

Even less work than the above. Rubbing alcohol it desloves the sap and wipes off. I stayed at a state park in SC. Full of pine trees in the spring. Large drops of sap everywhere, on a black truck, not happy. The park Ranger suggested the rubbing alcohol. It worked great even with some dried on sap it took a little longer. Use small spray bottle, spray area and wipe microfiber cloth works great. Did not hurt the paint Now this was for pine sap. I don't know about other types of sap. Good luck I hate tree sap.

Here are links to Mike's stuff mentioned above. https://www.amazon.com/Goof-Off-FG653-Professional-Strength/dp/B002MPPYYS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=MR0VA9XT6HW5&keywords=goof+off+pro+strength+remover&qid=1551198148&s=gateway&sprefix=goof+%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3 and https://www.amazon.com/Ehdis-Visibility-Plastic-Scraping-Windshields/dp/B01HLWB0BM/ref=sr_1_17?crid=MR0VA9XT6HW5&keywords=goof+off+pro+strength+remover&qid=1551198317&s=gateway&sprefix=goof+%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-17 Bill

I hate drippy trees, cottonwoods are also really bad.... here is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B00ZIM9XPI It works very well on sap, bugs and road tar too. It will completely strip any wax so you must reapply a protective coating afterwards. It is quite expensive online but if you call a local auto paint supply store you will find it way cheaper. I pay $14 per quart locally. It is used everywhere for paint prep at body shops. Wear gloves and use adequate ventilation. You only need a quart unless you plan on camping under drippy trees all the time. It is safe for the solar panel and all plastics. I also suggest that you strip off any old wax from the entire trailer hull by washing with a strong solution of blue Dawn detergent and this product. Apply Rejex or a similar non-wax coating. Rejex cannot be applied over wax, it needs to bond to the gelcoat. It will make future cleaning much easier and the trailer will look stunning. John Davies Spokane WA