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I have experienced low flow to the bathroom faucet, i’m assuming it was calcium deposits in the faucet cartridge, pumping white vinegar through the city water inlet took care of it. Steve

January 5 2018 I bought my Oliver for work. I live and work from the Oliver 3 to 7 days a week. February 2018 a horrible smell develop, and I discovered a small leak from the joint at the connection next to the black tank; just a drip. Called Rich and Phil about my problem, and they said they would call me back. When they called back, Rich and Mr. Oliver where on speaker phone, and said "How can we make this right?". I said "I want this fixed with the least inconvenience for me as possible". Rich said "We can bring you an Oliver to live-in while we fix yours, or put you up in a local hotel until we can get yours back to you". I realized at that moment why I bought an Oliver. 1 year 5 months, 10 years to go. Dr. Donald C. Neal with no mechanical skills what so ever.

Birds eye view of solar array.

So this is a topic I've been investigating lately... Quotes I've had for a wrap have ranged from 3k to 10k for a matte wrap. Varying mostly by geography ( high: CA, low: Ohio ). Universally, I've been told I should only expect 2 to 3 years max out of top sections due to sun/UV. So a wrap seems like a non-viable solution unless you REALLY need a color.

Welcome to the forum, and please fill out your profile so we know who and where you are. There have been issues now and then with systems, like plumbing or wiring, but they should have long been fixed or updated on an older trailer. If you make a field trip to the factory they can do these upgrades easily. The appliances are generally low end RV junk, meaning built to a low price point and not especially long lived or reliable, but usually easy to fix and cheap to replace. The Truma water heater is an exception, it is a high end unit but I don't know if they have a long enough track record to see how they hold up, and being German they are overcomplicated and expensive to fix, like an Audi.... The only concern IMHO is if the trailer was used in winter and towed over deicer covered streets. This will without question cause lots of rust on the steel suspension parts and also corrosion on the aluminum frame and wheels. "The frames don't rust", but don't fall for that line, they can corrode. My trailer gets parked indoors during all winter months when there are caustic chemicals on the roads. If you look at a used trailer and the frame doesn't look close to new, I do not suggest that you not walk away, but I would have it closely inspected and I would pay a lower price for cosmetic and possible hidden damage. Speaking of which, check for rock chips, which can be repaired or covered with a protective coating. Lots of un-repaired stone damage is a warning sign. There are plenty of owners who take great care in keeping their Ollies looking nice, so look for one of those, not a scruffy one, unless you can get the scruffy one really cheap so you can fix or replace things... A trailer located close to TN is more likely to have had good "factory service" done to it, this would be a plus compared to one in Alaska, for example. Owner upgrades are always good, but they may not meet your approval and should not significantly affect the asking price, except for something like disk brakes or a compressor fridge, both of which are major improvements. Like buying a used car, be prepared to walk away if something feels wrong to you. Have a prepurchase inspection performed by a mobile RV tech, unless the seller can show you a printout of a very recent one. Unless recently serviced, all the wheel hubs need to come off for a look inside. You need to know if ALL the systems function as they should, and the suspension, bearings and brakes are in good condition. Buyer Beware. This can be very hard if you drove all day to check one out, but that is what you need to do. https://rvlove.com/2018/09/29/getting-a-professional-rv-inspection-before-buying-plus-our-fix-it-list/ John Davies Spokane WA

We had a problem with water flow to the toilet. We happened to be on our way to Tennessee for some upgrades when it happened. The service guys found hard water deposits where the hose connects to the toilet preventing flow. We have been using a water softener since. We’ve been to some remote campgrounds that I’m sure had some pretty hard water. Mike

I'm on the road now so this will be short. I was one of the first to change. Ball taper is different but doesn't show on pics very well. Whale tail attachment is also different and a great improvement. Cost is/was $100. I've not heard one peep out of the new one in about 25,000 miles. Bill

I’ve noticed that on mine also. Obviously they come from the window manufacturer like that, but why, I’ve no idea. Perhaps the gaps act as a secondary drain in case water gets through the seal, or perhaps it’s somehow related to the egress function (maybe it makes it easier to open if the seals are old and gunked up? Dunno).

John: I have no pictures of the old or up graded Anderson WDH. The "whale tail" is different where it connects to the bottom of the trailer ball (this has been discussed several times in the past). I have not removed the trailer ball from the upgraded unit; since I am not having any issues, I don't see any reason to do so. So far we have put several thousand miles on the new up graded unit; with no issues in dry or wet weather. The up graded ball housing appears to have a little different taper than the old unit. The trailer ball retaining ring looks to be the same on both units.

Closely inspected our 2015 Ollie's frame several times and have not found any issues with welds or signs of fatigue. Our Ollie has been towed between 30,000 to 40,000 miles miles so far (purchased used). Replaced the Maxx Roof Fan, 3" black tank valve, Furrion AM/FM/DVD player, and power supply (non-solar) so far. We're very happy with Ollie, just returned yesterday from another camping trip in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Heading back again during July to get out of the heat here at home. Plenty of interest in Ollie wherever we go and folks want to know if it's new because of the beautiful exterior and interior finish.

Well, we're honored to be your first forum. ? Welcome aboard! As far as sticking things to the wall, I've used velcro for flashlights, remote contol, and various other items. Works well if items aren't too heavy. Command hooks also a winner, and easily removed when you decide to change location. I also use suction cups for extra towel rings, and racks for melmac dishes, and spices, etc, behind the sink and cooktop. We'll look forward to seeing your solutions. I also like IKEA Skubb fabric zipper bottom bins for dividing up areas of the cupboards. Sherry

Everything looks to be going well. Going to have a local semi-truck axle, trailer outfit fix the axles and, just like you suggest, it is most likely going back to Oliver to be gone over. Jason and the Oliver crew have been good in this matter, just a bit delayed insurance (normal) and being occupied by the rally, which is just a timing thing. I look forward to it being back to mint condition and am glad that it looks like Oliver will do the fiberglass work and check over any other work. Appreciate all the good advice from everyone.

We have had our Oliver only since last September, and many of the RV systems are new to us. One issue is the Grey Tank. We take one short shower and wash a few dishes and the Grey Tank is half full. Since we were camping at a State Park with full hookups, I decided to do an experiment to test the calibration of the Grey Water Monitor. I did the experiment with the trailer completely level. I emptied the Grey Tanks, and the Monitor read 13. I then filled a 5 gallon bucket with water and poured it into the shower drain. Monitor reads 44! Only 5 gallons, and it reads 44! Pour another five gallons into the drain, record the monitor. Repeat. When I had poured 25 gallons into the system the monitor read 100. I could only pour about 3 more gallons into the drain before the tank was full and water backed up into the shower pan. Thus the total amount of water I could add was 28 gallons. Since the Oliver Grey Tank has a 35.5 gallon capacity, I assume that the tank was not fully drained, and it still had 7.5 gallons still in the tank at the start of the experiment. So I am not crazy. We add five gallons to the (nearly) empty Grey Tank, and the Monitor reads 44, but it is only 35% full. I did this experiment with the trailer level, because the trailer is level when I Monitor Grey Tank usage. I have noticed that when I empty the Grey Tanks with the nose elevated, the Monitor reads zero, but whenever I empty with the trailer level, the Monitor reads 13. Lesson: Empty tanks with nose elevated… Lesson two: I do not need to panic if the Monitor reads 80, it is only 2/3 full. My experiment is not perfect. I used a line on my bucket as the 5 gallon mark, and that may not be completely accurate. I could repeat the experiment with the tank fully emptied, but my wife already gave me grief about wasting 30 gallons of fresh water. My questions: Have others experienced this problem? Is there an easy fix, short of a 1650 mile drive to Hohenwald? Finally, we camped at Kodachrome Basin State Park, which was lovely. Highly recommended. They take reservations at the campground, and we reserved a site with hookups. 15 of the 34 sites have hookups. The site we had with hookups was really nice. But if we go again I would reserve one of the non-hookup sites on the edge of the campground. These sites are very pretty and really private. David

Adjusting the Garmin guide lines. The GPS is a RV660LMT. The onboard settings allow you to adjust the side guide lines, where the tires will go if backing straight, and also to adjust the three horizontal distance markers. Garmin tells you to go to a parking lot and maneuver, using the painted lines for guides, but I decided it was easier to bring the lines to the trailer than vice versa. I laid out lines using 2x4s, in line with the outside edge of the tire sidewalls. I just laid them down and moved them around after squinting along the trailer. I used a tape to ensure they were parallel: I then laid out horizontal reference boards at 2 ft, 4 ft and 6 ft from the rear bumper. Using the arrows on the Garmin Camera Setup screen, I aligned the side lines, and then the distance lines. There is no adjustment for the center line, but you can accurately align the top and bottom ones with the 6 ft and the 2 ft markers. It is quick and easy. Reposting an earlier pic: Last, I renamed the camera in the Garmin menu, to reference the distance markers. (This gps will accept up to four camera inputs.) Done. As mentioned before, the resolution is pretty bad but it is entirely usable. I do wish it were sharper. In traffic I keep the camera selected so I can see what cars are doing behind and to the sides. It really helps when planning lane changes. The picture quality is not good enough to check out the driver of the car.... but you can tell it's a car ;) Other than remembering to switch on the camera, the rest is pain free and automatic. When the gps sees a signal from the camera, it will open automatically the video screen. It takes a few seconds after switching on the camera. If you are navigating (the map is in view) a camera symbol will appear in the corner. To see the video, you have to exit the map screen. I guess this is a safety/ liability thing. I found it handy when installing the wiring to have the gps inside the trailer, on the dinette table and plugged into the 12 v outlet below it. John Davies Spokane WA