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On my Elite II I slightly loosened the door catch and added another layer of Reflextix to the door plus I outlined the shower door area with foam insulation. Since nothing has frozen up I can't be certain that this has really been effective. But, there is less dust and dirty in that area now as compared to before. Bill

If the standard torque for those bolts is 80, then that’s exactly what Oliver should recommend. The bolts aren’t under any tension other than what you’ve applied so it can’t be the application. And the bolt has obviously been twisted in two, not sheared You either got a bad bolt or you over torqued it. If it were me, I’d get your torque wrench calibrated to eliminate the latter possibility.

JD, Its difficult to determine the quality of the failed bolt, but certainly is an important aspect of your problem. Its been my experience that the softer grade 5 have a better stretch tolerance, than the harder grade 8. I broke many 8's on my brush hog, change to the softer metals, much better. Sometimes in our efforts to make stuff better, beefier, we inadvertently go backwards. I don't know what Oliver will say, but the quoted Bulldog instructions are clear. Good luck on your quest.

Sherry thanks for the comment. I can't disagree with your point of view either other than to say this would not in any shape form or fashion be an inexpensive standard annual maintenance project. This project is very labor intensive, especially the first time around and more importantly due to some of the shoddy and odd installation procedures some one took. Primarily the security bolt to the casing on the curb side which was completely not needed and unnecessary. And at least in my case its over a half days drive to the nearest Camping World store and the other local RV store is normally months out for scheduling repairs. Neither of those choices made much sense either. By no stretch of the imagination was I encouraging anyone to embark on this repair if they don't feel comfortable working on such things, thus the precautionary comments I made in terms of dealing with gas connections. Regardless some other members and owners had requested this information and I was glad to oblige. Hope this makes sense. Rob

I had watched the guys at Oliver install this furnace in our trailer at the factory back in 2014. It came out and went it through the basement access door. Because of a couple of minor issues I've had our furnace out, twice. I took it out through the rear under-bed access panel on the curb side. I had to remove the vent cap and exhaust tube assembly from the outside of the trailer by drilling out the pop rivets. Then it was just a matter of unhooking the vents, gas and electrical feeds and rotating the heater to remove it up through the hatch. Although I feel there is minimal danger in all this, anyone who is uncomfortable with this process or doesn't feel they possess a skill set that's up to the task, should probably not attempt it. Realistically, only the oldest models will have the Suburban Heaters that would have to come out from the inside. All the later models have Atwood heaters that are serviceable from the outside.

Thanks for the info, my plan was to get a vanity plate and that would be that but Ontario doesn't allow them on trailers so now I am considering a plan b, no hurry but I am checking out options. Anya

The Ecoboost engine is really surprising but it really does seem to perform as you say - either economy or "boost". Of course when that boost is on and you are not towing you better hang onto that seat. I just returned from two months fishing in Montana (from Western North Carolina). According to my truck's computer I got right at 13 miles to the gallon for the whole trip. Certainly I wish that number was higher but there was never even a question about towing even when all the tanks were full - the truck handles hills with no problem at all. And during most of the rest of the year when I'm not towing (and not punching that gas pedal) the gas mileage in the low 20's is very nice. Bill

Jeff, I should have checked with you first! Brilliant.

One thing about straight stripes, it makes it dead easy to see if your rig is level. The frame is a little odd, the rear bumper structure is reinforced and the crossbars extend down below the actual frame rails, so it looks a little butt-low when it is not. Has anyone else noticed that? John Davies Spokane WA

Nah, Mike - the solution is obviously to add more graphics...

I’m ambivalent on the stripes. I’ve thought about removing ours a couple of times, just never did it. I did have some custom graphics on the side in place of the Oliver Legacy Elite II that said The Lone Star Oliver. I took it off after a couple of years because I was tired of folks asking where in Texas it was made. When I explained it was made in Tennessee the question was why would they call it a Lone Star Oliver. I would explain that was our naming of our trailer and then I was asked “why would you want to do that?”. I thought about having a FAQ card made that I could just hand out but removing the confusing graphics won the day. Mike

Thanks to all. This was something i was not aware of. Ill make a habit of checking my account often. One of those emails can be a little nerve racking. I’m sure I’m not along. Thanks again keep up the good work.

A little late to the dance (me). I have the natures head and just cover it with a "round" barbecue grill cover. Makes the Head a good seat from which to shower and it keeps the Head dry. I think I paid $20 at Home depot for the cover.