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I think, personally, there's a difference in evaluating trailer use tires vs suv/ truck use tires, especiallywhen it comes to noise. I don't care how much noise the trailer tires make. No one is (hopefully 🤣) inside to hear it. I've run bfg, goodyear, bridgestone, cooper and others on suvs and trucks the last thirty years. As soon as I find a tire that lasts 4 years, and doesn't generate a ton of noise, it's discontinued, anyway . In the trailer, we've run duros and maxxis, and now, a local brand, ST. Just my opinion. And, we still run on ST tires, not LT, on our trailer. So, I know we are in the small per centage, here. Trailer tires, imo, are meant to be drug around, since they have no driving power on their own. What do I want? Reputable company and warranty. Decent highway speed rating. Stiffer sidewall. Decent rolling resistance, so the trailer drag doesn't kill my mileage on the highway.. Proper load design for trailer weight. Any of Oliver's choices that I have seen, over the last twelve years, have been way and above what I see on other trailers and class c's, too. On those, if a load range c or d barely meets the specs, like my sister's sob trailer, that's what you get. I never have seen that on Oliver trailers. It's always above. A lot of people were happy with the Michelin tires. Unfortunately, they're no longer made for the Ollie size, so let's see how the Coopers work. If Cooper made a tire that fit my 2008 15 rim, I would be on it. I find a lot to like about Cooper. Sherry

I think like a lot of Elite II buyers, we were torn between the twin beds vs the king. We chose the twin, but not so much for the size or comfort of the beds as it was the utility of nightstand and easy access to the overhead compartments. But we liked the idea of having a table and a large lounging area in the back, and so I set my mind on the idea of trying to have both. At first I designed a custom table for the back that would latch into the nightstand in the back with a pole in front, similar to how the dinette table works. I showed it to Oliver and they thought they'd give it a try, but as time went on and things got delayed or forgotten, I sort of gave up on that idea and asked if they would just sell me the standard table top and legs and I would figure it out. They did, and it was a big mistake since I could never figure it out. The table was just too heavy and bulky to put up and take down, and there was absolutely no place to store it. Plus the height with the standard legs was too short for the mattresses we had (another poor decision on my part). So on our first trip it was labeled the Albatross Table and it was just in the way the whole time. It didn't make another trip, just the two mounts screwed to the floor to remind me that not every problem has a solution. But the solution does exist in the Lagun table. I'd seen them before in the king bed model but I had sort of dismissed them as being too small to be of use. But that was before @rideadeuce started this topic about their upgraded table top. Their top was much larger, foldable, and just generally nicer looking than what I'd seen before; and so it clicked with me that with the Lagun mount, we could have a foldable table that could easily be stored or moved out of the way for access to the upper storage. Also the height could be whatever we wanted and unlike the table we had, could be quickly locked for travel. There were just two problems for us - the mount in it's normal location would block the nightstand drawer; and on top of that, we had opted for an access hatch to the basement right in that same spot where the Lagun is usually bolted to the hull. I needed a way to mount the table to the side somehow. So I made one of these - This contraption is made out of 15 Series extrusion from 80/20. I cut, mitered, and erector setted this little block and associated connectors to go beneath the bed overhang. The Lagun mounting plate (the vertical piece) bolts to the mount and then the whole thing gets bolted to the side wall under the bed in four places and to the bed overhang in four places. It looks complicated but if you have a miter saw and can play with Legos, you can build it. Here are some pics of the block in place so you can see how it mounts. The top two bolts on the Lagun plate bolt into the side of the bed extension, then there are two bolts on the block that secure vertically into the base of the extension, then another four bolts that go into the side wall of the base of the bed, opposite the basement. I marked and drilled for the two vertical holes first, then temporarily bolted it in place to mark all the other holes. You need to do this since not all of the surfaces are perpendicular to the trailer or one another. But the flat bottom of the bed extension runs parallel to the floor so if you use that as your starting point then the table top will end up parallel to the floor as well. The end result is extremely solid - The table top I chose is the 35" Nautic Sail top from Marine Teak. Look around on their site and you'll find a number of styles and sizes, any of which would be a great choice. (This is the same company as this one, btw, but they have more choices in table tops on their UK site.) I debated oiling it, but came to my senses and coated it in a couple layers of low gloss poly. Taking it apart to seal is no problem, but you do have to keep track of a number of shims that go under the hinges to make them flush to the wood. So here's the final result. I really like the versatility of the top. Use it folded, unfolded, bar height, table height, sideways, lengthways, stick it over the bed for travel or to get it out of the way, or...however. With the mounting plate where it is, we can raise the table hight enough to clear the nightstand and lower it enough that it sits on the bed locked in place for travel. As you can see, the drawer clears just fine. The table will work best once we have our cushions made to replace the mattresses, but we just did a quick weekend trip with it and it works well even as it is. And best of all, it fits in the closet -

I have found my solution for the awkward plastic shower curtain supplied by Oliver when you purchase the full curtain track. I purchased a new fabric curtain, very thin and light weight. Then this is what I did: 1. Layer the new curtain flat on the floor with the plastic Oliver curtain on top. 2. Then I made allowance for finishing the edges. It must be doubled to hold the grommet. (See last photo) and cut the new curtain using the plastic curtain as my pattern plus finished edge allowance. 3. I used the existing little suction cups from the plastic curtain and attached them in the same position on the new curtain. 4. Next I placed the position of the grommets and attached them. (You can purchase a kit on line/practice first) 5. The only thing to do was check the length and shorten if necessary then hang. They are not quite perfect but they look better when not in use, they do the job and dry very quickly.

Here's what I heard from Sales this AM about the Specific Cooper Tires being used now on 2020 models. Tires are the Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT225/75R16 Load Rating E * 2680lb per tire* The Discoverer HT3™ is designed for drivers of commercial pickup trucks and vans, optimized for highway driving. Engineered to resist abnormal wear Improved handling, performance and traction Quiet running tread design 50K Mile Warranty M+S Rated http://us.coopertire.com/tires/discoverer-ht3

That's an awesome savings. For the many of us whose tvs run on gas, look into the credit cards that give cash discounts, by per centage. Check nerd wallet. There's on credit card now that gives 5 per cent cash back, pretty much anywhere in the USA. If you have a Costco or Sam's card, you'll pick up savings of 4 or 5 per cent. Much more when you gas uo at Sam's or Costco, as they're already 3 to 6 per cent below local prices. Then, enjoy the credit card savings. We use a combination of all of the above. We have a credit card (credit union) that gives us 5 per cent cash back anywhere, plus enjoy the savings at Costco, Sam's, and Murphy's attached to Walmart sites. And I use gasbuddy app and google to look ahead for gas prices on my phone. On a typical trip from Florida to north Carolina, we stop twice in South Carolina, where gas is cheaper by 15 to 20 cents. Our 34 gallon tank will take us into town in Asheville several times in nc , and back to a cheaper gas stop in SC, on the way home, if we fill up in Spartanburg. Sherry

HERE is a thread with various options for relocating the surge suppressor display. I followed @mountainoliver's suggestion HERE to move it under the dinette where it is visible from the door during campsite setup. You can snake the cable out through the electrical box, and no drilling is needed if you use command strips to attach the display to the trailer wall.

Yes, if there is a thief wandering around with a spare hitch that fits the Ollie frame/bolt pattern, mounting hardware and tools, then yes, they could unbolt your hitch and bolt on a new one, but that means they are probably specifically targeting your Ollie trailer and would need to make the investment in the new hitch and tools to do it. No system is completely theft-proof. The point is to slow the thief down or make it so much trouble that they find an easier target. But at least the Proven lock used on the Bulldog can't be defeated by a simple pair of bolt cutters that most thieves carry. Other cheaper hitch locks are 10 seconds or less to defeat with bolt cutters.

Wow, really nice Don. But I think I'll stay with your ex. She so cozy and warm. Still loving it so much. Mary R.

Don - Bet you can't wait for that new camper. Certainly one does get a bunch of space on the interior when you move the kitchen and the bath from the inside to the outside. However, one also gets a much smaller foot-print. It appears that once the beds are deployed you will be sleeping under canvas. If that is the case, be sure to take a look at a product sold by a company called "Popup Gizmos". This product is basically a tarp with one side being reflective and is held on via bungee cords. It greatly helps in both reducing interior heat transfer (both in and out). If you decide to purchase this product - get the "wind proof" (most expensive) version. This version is both stronger and easier to put on. I have never stored many cloths in my closet - perhaps a jacket and a decent shirt/pants for use in the event I needed something a tad nicer without wrinkles. However, given the amount of "stuff" I've got in there I can certainly see where the addition of shelving would allow for a ton of cloths. In my case, I still am not using all my closet space, nor the storage space under the street side bed, nor the space aft of the furnace, nor the space in the back of the truck. Bill

There were three reasons that it didn't work - 1) they said the stability was questionable just moving it around the factory, 2) because of my hitch config, the trailer already travels nose down a bit even with a 4" rise on my hitch, and 3) it looked totally silly. I also think that a lift would make the trailer more difficult to level - not a huge deal, but you'd have to carry some extra blocks I think. Also an extra step to get in and out. That was a 4", maybe 5" lift, so obviously something lower would mitigate all of the above.