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I live about an hour from Guntersville, I have land for anyone who wants to arrive a couple of days early to boondock. Of course no charge for my Ollie Family.

My reason for going to 2 5/16" coupler, was that I had other trailers with a 2 5/16" coupler. Factory order/install process: At time of order, I said I wanted to upgrade. I was put in email contact with Jason Essary in Service. Jason provided a quote and the upgrade to the 2 5/16" bulldog coupler. The coupler was put on in the service department after the end of manufacturing. It was on the trailer on my delivery day. (Oliver also pre-installed the Anderson Hitch on the frame of the trailer which was a really nice benefit to ordering the anderson at the time of the trailer order.) Reason for using the weight distribution hitch: 1/2 Ton Truck Receiver Specs I tow with a 1/2 ton F150 that has a receiver rating of 500# weight carrying (dead tongue wt) or 1200# if using a long with a weight dist. hitch. Image below of the "F150 Receiver tag. Since my tongue wt is about >600#, I need to use the weight dist. hitch. With 3/4 ton and above trucks, the factory hitch receivers can handle the tongue wt...no problems. CS

This is a very difficult question to answer. Your personal space requirements may be different than others. I went from a larger Rv and welcomed the downsizing of the Oliver. You need a place to sleep eat and a place to clean up wash shower. Some that have larger Rvs may not like the smaller space. Smaller Rvers and people that used tents love and welcome the size of the Oliver, best bet take the tour of the Oliver plant and visit one in person to get your own feel of it. I think you’ll like it. Good luck

He’s smiling because it’s the middle of September, the weather in Wyoming is beautiful, we snagged a very nice site at Gros Ventre campground and I’m sipping a nice wine. Oh yeah, and because of the versatility of the blocks. 😆

I stay signed in all the time and get new notifications with no problem. Paula

MarkC - I do not believe that John's wear was "normal" for the Andersen system and as I recall, I posted pictures of my hitch ball that didn't have any of the same type of wear patterns as John's showed. However, your real question is do you need a weight distribution hitch with a one ton truck and the answer is no. As far as "being smart" in using a larger ball - I agree with Mike. The standard 2 inch ball is fine and I've never heard of even one failure with it. Is the larger ball better? Certainly if someone were to give me the larger ball, I'd take and use it. But, for my needs - what I tow, where I tow, how I tow - I would not pay for it. Obviously, if you plan on loading your Ollie to the max, tow on very rough roads, otherwise plan on abusing (meaning rough treatment) the hitch system, then the larger ball just might be a better way to go for you. Bill

I use the legos under my homemade wood blocks. The blocks are 6X6X8”, so they stand 8” tall. I use as many legos as needed to lift the block to within an inch or two from the jack. That saves wear and tear on the jack and reduces battery drain when we’re boondocking. Here’s a picture when we were at Grand Teton National Park in September, you can see the back jack with legos and my block.

We routinely go out for 4 to 6 week trips. We don’t feel cramped. The only time we wish we had more space is during inclement weather. We try to spend most of our time outside. A Clam or other screen room is a good addition so you can spread out a little. We’ve spent several days inside during extremely cold weather or very wet weather and did fine.

The chains/cables being discussed here are designed to be able to keep the tow vehicle and trailer attached to each other in the event of some type of failure of the hitch system (i.e. the hitch receiver, the hitch itself, the bulldog coupler assembly, the front of the frame of the trailer, etc.) This is why these are sometimes referred to as "safety chains/cables". Bill

Warning - Warning! Watch out for Matt Ducan - he can seriously play some golf.

I have such good luck with Weber grills that I opted for the Weber Q1200 and purchased the low pressure conversion kit for it. I installed it yesterday and everything works as advertised. I hope we have the same good luck we have with our other Weber grills. We have had our original Spirit grill for 25 years and I replaced the burners for the first time last year as a precaution and not because it was required. I have gone through a few grills grates and flavorizer bars until I settled on the stainless for both, one in NH and one in PEI.

I removed the regulator from our Weber 1200 and replaced the hose on our Little Red Campfire to eliminate the requlator on it and run both off the camper quick connects and they run great. I use the shut off on the quick connect to control the height of the Campfire. The Weber has its own valve to control the heat. I think you will have a problem running through 2 regulators.

I ordered our new Elite II with the quick disconnect LP couplers, I have also purchased a 1/4" 25' LP extension hose and this connector, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXPVCXQ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_17?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07KXPVCXQ I attached it to the end of the new 25' extension hose and the quick coupler fitting to the other to plug it into the trailer. I can just connect any LP appliance to it, be it a LP grill, campfire, or any LP product that need LP fuel. Yes you will be using two regulators which does nothing to LP gas performance to the accessories and anyone can bring there grill, etc. over and just plug it in if need be. trainman