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I just received my quote from Alcan Springs for hull #110. Not including shipping or taxes it's around $1065.00. I still need to confirm my U-Bolt size, likely 9/16" (confirmed). I know they are 3" wide. The info below is likely in other threads, sorry for repeating, but here are the weight/load specs between the springs. 4-Leaf: 2250 x 4 = 9,000 lbs 5-leaf: 2750 x 4 = 11,000 lbs Does anyone have pics of the 4-leaf springs? I figure the second leaf extends way out like the 5-leaf springs - not sure. I have already installed a 5-leaf set on a friend's Oliver, so I know what to expect there. There is really little to no price difference Tim said at Alcan, between 4 or 5 leaf springs. I do find it difficult to believe that we'd see an more wear & tear between 4 or 5 leaf springs. I've seen the thick steal used per leaf.

See you there for a few days during Big Tent then off to CA for a bit then back thru for a few days during the fiberglas rally. Looking forward to seeing the usual suspects again and meeting some new folks Lance

What's not to like about the Colorado Rockies in the summertime? A number of Oliver owners have attended this enjoyable rally in the past and you're invited! The 2026 Rocky Mountain Fiberglass Rendezvous will be held at historic Camp Hale in the cool central Colorado Rocky Mountains from Sunday, August 2nd to Thursday, August 6th. Come one, come all! More information and the sign up is found at: www.RockyMtnFiberglassRendezvous.com. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Bill Schick, wwschick@gmail.com (2018 LE II, Hull #390)

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, I changed my forum profile name from Wayfinder to my Name, so Facebook folks can make a better correlation.

I think that I've mentioned this before - Before one turns into Camp Hale off the main highway, be sure to stop in a turnout and look at the ponds located right by the road - there is a family of beavers in those ponds that can often be seen doing their "beaver thing" here. Bill

Part 2 Setting aside (Not Fully Removing) the white seal along the bottom part of the window is a good start. Then clean the inside trough, but as indicated above I don't recommend removing the black window guide. If it has slid all the way to the corner, I try to move it back towards the latch a few inches. This gives me a barrier free section for water flow to under the black window glide. It also gives me a way to flush water under the black guide to flush out dirt and gunk. My leaks almost always manifest themselves as an overflow over the inside track and down the wall to the sleeping area. This overflow is generally due to lack of flow to the outside of the track caused by the inside trough weeps to the outside trough being restricted, or rarely due to the water not flowing thru the black window track with the holes. (see above) Once the water gets into the outside track, it departs via the outside facing weeps of the inside trough. Sadly the two sets of weeps are not aligned. As such it complicates cleaning the inside weeps. This prompts the use of the 18" pipe cleaners (PC). Poke them into the outside weeps and get them cleaned and flush this track from the outside. Then use the pipe cleaners to scrub out the entire length of this lower track. GO both ways thru all the lower outside weeps. Now use the PC's to find and clean the inside weeps between the two trough's. Clean and flush from the inside trough to move junk thru and to the outside trough. Then flush the outside and clean the outside track again. Low hose pressure and control is a must to prevent inside flooding. My home made Hot Water Tank Flush wand works nicely for this control.

I don't have the courage to do that. It is very delicate and difficult to change if damaged. I do lightly brush it though and rinse well with Dawn/hot water to clean and flush well. Best to relocate the bedding out of harms way, and have a friend inside with towells in case of an overflow. GJ

Yep, or each time we get home. To wash the Oliver, I use a car soap foam-sprayer and first I get the entire Oliver soaked in soap suds. Then I mount the pressure washer gun and clean the entire body. I hit the windows with the pressurized water and you can see the dirt coming out of the weep holes. When you see clean water coming through you're done. I've asked Chris to go inside to see if anything gets wet inside, but it never does. She'll clean the interior window tracks as needed with a damp dust rag. I use a battery-powered leaf blower to get most of the water off the Oliver, preferring not to rub/towel dry. Hit the windows with air too. Now that we're ceramic-coated she cleans up nicely and quickly!

Small cans of compressed air can be used for multiple purposes in and around the Oliver. I always have a can with me like THIS. Bill

I expect the challenge is ensuring your batteries and your charging system are turned off every time temps drop down to freezing. The easier solution is what we have: a switched external warming mat placed under the batteries and wired to our Oliver 12V system. Ours was installed by Oliver with our 390 Ah Lithionics battery package. One similar option now available is from Lion Energy: https://shopsolarkits.com/products/lion-energy-battery-warmer?srsltid=AfmBOoo5_6ceyboAQUUVw1CNe_jCPeADkLbtop6B-CC3Z-THhq2OC5zhaDI